I have been looking at spuhr mounts and like the innovation but I am curious what the toughest mounts really are?
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Join contest SubscribeCurious why the most pro use them in competition is it that they have more giveaways or sponsorships then?
I have heard a lot of good things about Hawkins rings.I highly doubt this is true especially today with so many as good or better options for less out there. Some people use them but there are many others out there that won’t crack. Seems like you have your heart set on a Spuhr so spend the money and get it but I wouldn’t. I’d be looking at Area419, ARC, MPA, Seekins or Hawkins.
I have heard a lot of good things about Hawkins rings.
I'm curious what pushed you towards something so beefy and heavy. Did you have a bad experience or are you just looking to avoid one?I haven't put my Eratac through the ringer yet, but it's made from steel. I don't think it's bending/breaking anytime soon.
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I wanted some more adjustment range for elr, and I like to tinker. I've never had issues with my MPAs, ARC, Warnes, or Spuhr.I'm curious what pushed you towards something so beefy and heavy. Did you have a bad experience or are you just looking to avoid one?
Yea mainly holding optic secure under recoil drops and such. I under stand scope may give up before mount but I still want the scope attached next time my rifle takes a tumble.Tough in terms of what? Physical impacts? Wear over time? I ask because I went down this road a few years back and realized, the mount is only as tough as the optic or the screws attaching it. Meaning, if it's an impact due to a fall, wouldnt the optic take the hit rather than the mount? You'll ruin the scope pretty much before any mount fails. Or, if the scopes say a steel unertl, and the mounts bulletproof, but mounted with old factory #6 screws was it? Then the mount/scope as a whole unit would pull those little screws right out of the holes. It's not like the mount would ever take a ton of abuse just by itself outside of the rifle or scope sharing that damage.
And are you talking pic mounts that mount to a rail that is screwed to your action? Or screwed directly to. If it's the former, I usually go for an all steel pic rail with recoil lug (only a few out there) (and utilizing all 4 mounting holes too) and make sure my holes are the bigger of the two (#8 is it?), red loctite that in, then use steel rings like leupolds or badgers. You can even double those rings up fore and aft of the turret housing for more strength. But like I said, it's soo tough now, that any hard impacts either destroying your scope, or yanking the base screws out.
But for the trend of all aluminum 1 piece set ups, the Audere Adversus Gen 2, MDT's one piece, and Nightforce's come to mind. I cant see any of those failing too often.
What the military uses varies WIDELY, depending on which branch and which rifle, and which requirements list. I wouldnt use them as a reference though honestly lol. You're going to get two answers there; "ive used scope mount x for 30 years with no problems." and then you're going to get "I broke mine on the first day at the range!" so.. yea.Yea mainly holding optic secure under recoil drops and such. I under stand scope may give up before mount but I still want the scope attached next time my rifle takes a tumble.
Curious what the special forces and snipes use? Rings or one piece and what brand?
Doesn’t impact this decision just a curiosity.
Careful, you going to get the leg humpers come in and says that everyone that has had one broken torqued it on wrong. And Mile High has great CS and will take care of you.Oh and dont get a spurh. Wayy too many reports of them breaking, and NO scope mount on EARTH is worth 600 dollars even if it were made from solid Rhodium. Any man that feels his scope mount is worth 600 dollars can go fuck himself; It's a scope mount, not a part on an engine used by NASA.
I dont doubt Mile High's CS, but that has nothing to do with what I call the Mercedes syndrome, where one feels superior, and thus feels like their products, which arent any better than their competitors are just worth more because it has THEIR symbol on them. There's no way a 600 dollar spur is 300 dollars better than a good 300 dollar mount lol.Careful, you going to get the leg humpers come in and says that everyone that has had one broken torqued it on wrong. And Mile High has great CS and will take care of you.
Most people don’t own torque wrenches, let alone multiple across inch and foot pound ranges.I dont doubt Mile High's CS, but that has nothing to do with what I call the Mercedes syndrome, where one feels superior, and thus feels like their products, which arent any better than their competitors are just worth more because it has THEIR symbol on them. There's no way a 600 dollar spur is 300 dollars better than a good 300 dollar mount lol.
ALTHOUGH, there is some creedence to the claim of over torquing. I've worked as a car mechanic and bike mechanic and fairly experienced amateur gun smith for quite a while, and you'd be REALLY REALLY surprised at the special tools MOST mechanics or smiths DONT possess. It grinds my gears soo bad I cant stand it. If theres a special tool for that job and instead you're using a punch and a hammer, I'm going to have a come apart. Use the right tool! And with that, I know a ton of people that dont own torque wrenches lol. I wouldnt be surprised if those ring screws were torqued on to 40 lb/in whatsoever.
Take a look at this thread about wet mounting between the mount and the rail (not the tube). Seems persuasive and I started doing it first with light oil, and now with tiny amounts of grease as I assume it won’t leave the scene quite so fast.Yea mainly holding optic secure under recoil drops and such. I under stand scope may give up before mount but I still want the scope attached next time my rifle takes a tumble.
While true, every person who owns a gun with an optic should also own a basic Fix It Stick kit.Most people don’t own torque wrenches, let alone multiple across inch and foot pound ranges.
After reading about wet mounting and seeing it recommended by some professionals, I’ve started doing it too, worst case I use up some lube. It seems like a good precaution.Take a look at this thread about wet mounting between the mount and the rail (not the tube). Seems persuasive and I started doing it first with light oil, and now with tiny amounts of grease as I assume it won’t leave the scene quite so fast.
Haven’t had the misfortune of dropping anything to test it.
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Wet Mounting Scope Mounts - Where It All Started
I figure since Hakan did a video interview about it, maybe it’s time to bring all the testing to the light. In a nutshell, I experienced a scope zero shift in 2015 from the rifle falling over in the hotel room at the Hide Cup. When i returned home and started testing to find the origin of the...www.snipershide.com
Nope! And it's wronger than two boys fuckin in church too.Most people don’t own torque wrenches, let alone multiple across inch and foot pound ranges.
Even for those that do own a torque wrench, when was the last time it was calibrated?Nope! And it's wronger than two boys fuckin in church too.
Take a look at this thread about wet mounting between the mount and the rail (not the tube). Seems persuasive and I started doing it first with light oil, and now with tiny amounts of grease as I assume it won’t leave the scene quite so fast.
Haven’t had the misfortune of dropping anything to test it.
![]()
Wet Mounting Scope Mounts - Where It All Started
I figure since Hakan did a video interview about it, maybe it’s time to bring all the testing to the light. In a nutshell, I experienced a scope zero shift in 2015 from the rifle falling over in the hotel room at the Hide Cup. When i returned home and started testing to find the origin of the...www.snipershide.com
Gonna call you Hawk Tuah from now on.No oil needed. Just spit on that thang!
I got a guy in NC that does mine, but admittedly, I havent done that in quite a while.Even for those that do own a torque wrench, when was the last time it was calibrated?
I presume mine are still pretty close, and I often play them against each other on the same bolt, and the settings seem equal. Certainly not the end all be all of validation, but I usually use fasteners and scopes that have spec overlap (mount says 15 inlb, scope says 25).Even for those that do own a torque wrench, when was the last time it was calibrated?
I got a guy in NC that does mine, but admittedly, I havent done that in quite a while.
The discipline is called metrology and a properly calibrated device should be able to demonstrate that its calibration is traceable to the National Institutes of Standards and Technology.Yup, and this becomes a variable. I'm happy as long as I'm 10% accurate (hoping I am).
Then there is the question, the machine checking the accuracy, when was the last time that machine was calibrated? and who calibrated that machine?
We had this issue with radar guns in police work. Who calibrated the analyzer to check it's accuracy, and who checked that? Came a point where the judge said if it's checked by a calibrated device, that is good enough.
Exactly. I know that my tool certainly have gone byby. But the tools are still valid “target points” for me on how hard do I twist the wrench get say 20 lb/inches. My old hand no longer has that calibration setting.The discipline is called metrology and a properly calibrated device should be able to demonstrate that its calibration is traceable to the National Institutes of Standards and Technology.
That’s how all the “who” and “how” questions you brought up are answered. If not traceable to NIST then you’re fooling yourself.
BUT, NIST traceability costs and certification must be regularly redone. And no, we don’t do that…well, maybe someone who uses tools from their work place that has metrology in place.
I send my Vortex torque wrench back to them every year or two for calibration. They do it with no hassle. I don't even call them. I print out their service form and send it in. Generally I have it back in a week or less. I also had the pleasure of seeing their calibration equipment before.The discipline is called metrology and a properly calibrated device should be able to demonstrate that its calibration is traceable to the National Institutes of Standards and Technology.
That’s how all the “who” and “how” questions you brought up are answered. If not traceable to NIST then you’re fooling yourself.
BUT, NIST traceability costs and certification must be regularly redone. And no, we don’t do that…well, maybe someone who uses tools from their work place that has metrology in place.
But, but, who calibrates the Calibrators?Even for those that do own a torque wrench, when was the last time it was calibrated?
Now you’re thinking with your big brain.But, but, who calibrates the Calibrators?
And who calibrates THEM?
-Stan