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Rifle Scopes Universal Coaster throw levers

scudzuki

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 1, 2012
2,101
154
58
Philadelphia suburbs
After taking a look at current throw lever options, like the MK Machining 3D printed, MGM SwitchView machined/anodized aluminum, and Aadland (printed or molded plastic I believe), I went looking for more of the Universal Coasters that I bought years ago as a temporary solution. When I bought them years ago they were pretty inexpensive but the idea of using the fishing product as a firearm accessory caught on and now they are being sold at pretty decent markup. Still, they're cheaper (at less than $10 ea) than any of the aforementioned solutions, and I can orient (clock) them anywhere I want on the mag ring, which is not possible with the purpose built units. I don't like whacking the throw lever while cycling the bolt, and with some scope/action combinations that means I have to either clock the throw lever where I like (which I can with the coasters) or limit how far I rotate the mag ring CW (with one of the purpose built products).

So you can laugh at my cobbed-together rig with the cheap quasi-throw lever until you realize that it's an AIAX with a Minox ZP5 or Bighorn TL2/Bartlein barreled action with an S&B. I like 'em and I'm gonna keep using 'em.
 
After taking a look at current throw lever options, like the MK Machining 3D printed, MGM SwitchView machined/anodized aluminum, and Aadland (printed or molded plastic I believe), I went looking for more of the Universal Coasters that I bought years ago as a temporary solution. When I bought them years ago they were pretty inexpensive but the idea of using the fishing product as a firearm accessory caught on and now they are being sold at pretty decent markup. Still, they're cheaper (at less than $10 ea) than any of the aforementioned solutions, and I can orient (clock) them anywhere I want on the mag ring, which is not possible with the purpose built units. I don't like whacking the throw lever while cycling the bolt, and with some scope/action combinations that means I have to either clock the throw lever where I like (which I can with the coasters) or limit how far I rotate the mag ring CW (with one of the purpose built products).

So you can laugh at my cobbed-together rig with the cheap quasi-throw lever until you realize that it's an AIAX with a Minox ZP5 or Bighorn TL2/Bartlein barreled action with an S&B. I like 'em and I'm gonna keep using 'em.

I can't laugh at it if I don't know what it looks like, any photos?
 
I generally make it a rule not to laugh at the tools people choose to get the job done, except possibly when someone goes uber tacticool and knows not how to use their weapon. That's sometimes funny.

I just wanted to say that I have a few MK Machining printed levers (on sale for $15 ea.), a couple Switchview levers and another brand lever I got with my Steiner. Not one of them impedes my bolt throw in any position/power setting. I find that in each case, I can set them for mid-power range at twelve o'clock and be clear at any other position. This is a handy thing for match or hunting IMO.

Anyway, each to his/her own as far as I'm concerned.
 
Scud, post a link or a pic please. I'm not sure what a Universal Coaster lever is in fishing, or how one adapts it to an optic throw lever. Thanks.
 
Not one of them impedes my bolt throw in any position/power setting.

I have 4 different bolt guns where the opposite is true with an MK Machining lever and with the Switchviews I've tried.
And I only have 4 bolt guns at the moment
The offset of the handle of the MK lever to the "rib" on the mag ring (which typically sweeps from 9 o'clock to 3 clock) is only 15 or 20 degrees. This means that installed in the RH position (lever sweeps from 8 o'clock to 2 o'clock), the lever is smack in the middle of the bolt handle travel when the mag ring is swung all the way CW (2 o'clock).
This even happens on an AIAX, with 70 degree bolt throw and 1.4" high scope.

 
Scud, post a link or a pic please. I'm not sure what a Universal Coaster lever is in fishing, or how one adapts it to an optic throw lever. Thanks.

universal coaster.JPG
 
image.jpg


Throw on my match rifle is about 7:30 to 1:30 and clears just fine. My others are similar.

Edited due to poor ability to manage the pictures on my phone.
 

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Sorry Scud, just one man's opinion, but that's a beautiful rifle and optic with an abortion of a lever on it. Spend 50 bucks and get a properly proportioned lever IMHO. That's like buying a Rembrandt & putting it in a $10 frame. No offense intended, there's a butt for every seat I realize, but that's just a shame....practicality taken beyond the pale....
 
Sorry Scud, just one man's opinion, but that's a beautiful rifle and optic with an abortion of a lever on it. Spend 50 bucks and get a properly proportioned lever IMHO. That's like buying a Rembrandt & putting it in a $10 frame. No offense intended, there's a butt for every seat I realize, but that's just a shame....practicality taken beyond the pale....

Agreed, the switchview is a great product with zero interference.
 
Sorry Scud, just one man's opinion, but that's a beautiful rifle and optic with an abortion of a lever on it. Spend 50 bucks and get a properly proportioned lever IMHO. That's like buying a Rembrandt & putting it in a $10 frame. No offense intended, there's a butt for every seat I realize, but that's just a shame....practicality taken beyond the pale....

Unless the frame that you consider "worthy" of the hypothetical Rembrandt masks 25% of the painting, thereby diminishing the function (aesthetics) of the art.
In that case the $10 frame is a better choice.

Function trumps form every time in my world.
 
I still don't quite understand why you have so much trouble with yours and I have these products on all of my scopes with no interference. Plus, I'm shooting all standard throw actions to boot. You see my pictures above? Those are of a MKM printed lever on a HDMR on top of a Stiller Tac 30 AW.

I also use Switchview or MKM on Sightron, S&B 5-25 PMII, Steiner and Vortex. All with similar results and no interference. I'm pretty sure that is why the others are also asking why.

As I said above, use what works for you and carry on, but realize why some of use don't get why you are having so much trouble with the product specific cat tails out there.
 
Hey guys,

Tyler from MKM here. It sounds like bolt interference is a bigger issue than I ever knew. We do try to design the lever with it being on a low mounted scope in mind, but if there's EVER any fitment/clearance issues I wanna hear about it, or else I can't fix it! I'd much rather have someone tell me something needs fixing than be reading through a forum and find it out!

Those universal zip tie things were $22 on Amazon until I started listing our throw levers...I certainly want to offer a better product than a zip tie.
 
Hey guys,

Tyler from MKM here. It sounds like bolt interference is a bigger issue than I ever knew. We do try to design the lever with it being on a low mounted scope in mind, but if there's EVER any fitment/clearance issues I wanna hear about it, or else I can't fix it! I'd much rather have someone tell me something needs fixing than be reading through a forum and find it out!

Those universal zip tie things were $22 on Amazon until I started listing our throw levers...I certainly want to offer a better product than a zip tie.

Tyler, not sure if it was passed to you by JD (I think that's who I spoke with), but the Bushnell XRS lever you sell is also the same for the ERS. They use the same ocular housing.
 
Yes, the DMR, HDMR, XRS, ERS, all those 34mm Bushnell tactical ones use the same lever. The 30mm tubed models use another lever that looks the same, just scaled down.
 
I was thinking about this a bit last night and it occurred to me that some of the levers, with notches for specific ocular housings, can be reversed when assembled on the scope ocular/power ring. This would serve to put the lever part on the wrong side of the notch and create a situation where there is bolt interference. I am not implying that that is what is being noticed by the OP, just that it is a possibility that bears looking into.
 
I generally make it a rule not to laugh at the tools people choose to get the job done, except possibly when someone goes uber tacticool and knows not how to use their weapon. That's sometimes funny.

Yes, indeed. I am currently getting chastised on the AR15.com with a thread about why people rattle can their guns, then try to sell them as "custom." And then, there is the guy who puts every tool on the forearm of his AR-15/M4, like flashlights, thumb sets, K9 door stops. I wonder when they plan to use all these amazing tools ?

 
I was thinking about this a bit last night and it occurred to me that some of the levers, with notches for specific ocular housings, can be reversed when assembled on the scope ocular/power ring. This would serve to put the lever part on the wrong side of the notch and create a situation where there is bolt interference. I am not implying that that is what is being noticed by the OP, just that it is a possibility that bears looking into.

Good that you point out that there are 2 ways to install the levers, but I always install in the RH orientation.

I have MK and Switchview levers on scopes on some semi auto rifles, but on all my bolt guns, the current purpose built units available are not clocked optimally... at the CW rotation limit my hand hits the lever when I cycle the bolt regardless of how strategic my grip of the bolt knob. At the same time, there's quite a bit of clearance between the levers and the LH side of the rifle stock/chassis when rotated to the CCW-most position. I can install the uni-coasters at any clocking I need, and this usually ends up with it almost hitting the stock/chassis at the CCW extreme.

Tyler Kemp may remember me asking him about the rotational offset of the Kahles specific lever that allegedly fits my Minox ZP5 scopes. I didn't buy them because I know they will have the interference issue I'm trying to avoid. He may also remember I asked about printing me a sample from a solid model file, as I had an idea how the clocking of the levers might be made adjustable. I haven't gotten around to any CAD work so that's where that idea stalled.

I paid $5/ea for 6 of the universal coasters shipped recently but had to buy the from an eBayer in the UK to get that price per unit.
 
I still don't quite understand why you have so much trouble with yours and I have these products on all of my scopes with no interference. Plus, I'm shooting all standard throw actions to boot. You see my pictures above? Those are of a MKM printed lever on a HDMR on top of a Stiller Tac 30 AW.

I also use Switchview or MKM on Sightron, S&B 5-25 PMII, Steiner and Vortex. All with similar results and no interference. I'm pretty sure that is why the others are also asking why.

As I said above, use what works for you and carry on, but realize why some of use don't get why you are having so much trouble with the product specific cat tails out there.

Because it's been my experience, regardless of what you've experienced with the scope/action combinations you're running.
By an AIAX, mount a Minox ZP5 in a Spuhr SP-4006, and try it for yourself.
Likewise with the same scope in Seekins Low rings on a TL2 action.

Just because you don't have any issues with the combination of equipment you are running doesn't mean it can't happen with different equipment.
 
Here's the model Tyler sent me of the lever that should fit my Minox. Looks like less than 30 degrees of offset. The DMR lever you pictured has at lease another 20 degrees of offset.

The bolt handle on my TL2 Seems to afford less clearance to the scope than your Stiller. There's just not room for a lever that's clocked another 20 degrees CW.
 

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