Using a set of brass/lifespan

[L2bravo]

So I’m pretty new to reloading, so please don’t torch me if I’m not up to speed.

I have a couple of sets of 100 brass that I’m using. So here’s my regiment;

Trim cases to 2.005” (308)
Decap and fl size using rcbs match die.
Deburr/chamfer
Tumble
Prime
Load 155 Amax to 2.75” coal with rcbs match seating die.
Shoot sub moa groups.

Cases grow 5-6 thou.

I have about 3 loads on these right now.

Wash rinse repeat. I’m using a bunch of range brass for now. Win, rp, fed, Hornady, etc. No need to buy a
bunch of good stuff, which I will, until I figure everything out.

Not annealing yet, but annealeze is on the short list.

So here’s my unknown... when you guys have a set of brass, and it’s getting some loads on them, what rate do they go to shit? Do you start seeing loose primer pockets/spit necks. Do they all start going to shit at once?

In other words, if you have a bad one, do you just put another one in the rotation, or yeah, these are done for?

Second question, if annealing, how many loads can you get on a 223 or 308?

 

[Sheldon N]

Case growth comes from the fire/expand/size/squeeze cycle. The more your dimensions change in that cycle particularly in the sizing portion the more you will see case length growth. You have some control in the chamber/die selection and matching process (ie dies are a good fit for your chamber) but the much bigger factor is in how far back you push the shoulder when full length sizing. Ideally you want just enough to have the brass chamber easily, around 0.002 shoulder set back. Case growth pulls brass from the body of the case, and will eventualy result in the case head separating from the body of the case.

Split necks come from the brass hardening as you work it during the size/fire/size cycle. Annealing can stop case neck spitting entirely if you do it regularly.

Primer pocket loosening comes from shooting high pressure loads. Run conservative loads and you can make brass last a very long time.

I've run 308 Lapua brass for 20 firings, being careful with the above factors. When it started to case head separate they all went pretty much at the same time.

 

[lightman]

There is no exact answer. There are lots of variables. Brass quality, chamber dimensions, how hot the load is, how much your sizing die works the brass, ect. I've had case necks split before they ever got to your 3 firings. The same with primer pockets getting loose. I also have had cases last and last. I have one lot of Lapua 6.5-284 brass that I shot all season one year in competition. With a hot load! Usually when a set of brass that has been loaded the same number of times starts to fail I'll scrap it. If the primer pocket gets loose they are toast. If a neck splits annealing may buy you a few more loadings.

Like I said, it depends!

 

[L2bravo]

There is no exact answer. There are lots of variables. Brass quality, chamber dimensions, how hot the load is, how much your sizing die works the brass, ect. I've had case necks split before they ever got to your 3 firings. The same with primer pockets getting loose. I also have had cases last and last. I have one lot of Lapua 6.5-284 brass that I shot all season one year in competition. With a hot load! Usually when a set of brass that has been loaded the same number of times starts to fail I'll scrap it. If the primer pocket gets loose they are toast. If a neck splits annealing may buy you a few more loadings.

Like I said, it depends!

So in regards to a bad case, do you put another in rotation, or most may be headed South.

Case growth comes from the fire/expand/size/squeeze cycle. The more your dimensions change in that cycle particularly in the sizing portion the more you will see case length growth. You have some control in the chamber/die selection and matching process (ie dies are a good fit for your chamber) but the much bigger factor is in how far back you push the shoulder when full length sizing. Ideally you want just enough to have the brass chamber easily, around 0.002 shoulder set back. Case growth pulls brass from the body of the case, and will eventualy result in the case head separating from the body of the case.

Split necks come from the brass hardening as you work it during the size/fire/size cycle. Annealing can stop case neck spitting entirely if you do it regularly.

Primer pocket loosening comes from shooting high pressure loads. Run conservative loads and you can make brass last a very long time.

I've run 308 Lapua brass for 20 firings, being careful with the above factors. When it started to case head separate they all went pretty much at the same time.

So is it a “they all go to shit” proposition? If I see a few problems, is it scrap it and start over time?

 

[918v]

Cases don’t fail all at once. You’ll typically lose 20% before all are done. So if you need x number of cases for your task, start with 1.2x

Some cases are soft and their primer pockets don’t last. But I was able to get 25 reloads out of FC 308 brass by using a moderate load of 41.7grs of 4064 under a 175SMK. The trick was to size the case to bump the shoulder only .002” and to anneal the neck every 5 reloads.
I lost 5 cases due to primer pocket issues, none to head separation.

So it all depends on the brass, how hot you load it, how much you size it, and how often you anneal.

I can get 15 loads out of Hornady .300 Win Mag. The cases fail due to head separation. The case walls are too thin. Still, that translates to only 5 cents a shot.

I wouldn’t worry about case life.

 

[lash]

Everything said above is pretty much spot on. The biggest things that I see from your op are the mixed range brass and starting with only 100 pieces.

Mixed range brass is fine if you just want to go bang each time, but if you plan on chasing precision, you seriously need to consider using brass from the same manufacturer and preferably from he same lot. If your budget is really tight and you want/need to use range brass, at least try to sort it by manufacturer and use and load these lots separately.

As briefly mentioned above, if you shoot in lots of 100, start with at least 120 cases of the same type and age. As you lose a couple or few to split necks or loose primers, you will still be able to have 100 available for use from that same batch.

Personally, since I shoot matches that require as many as 300 rounds (two days plus practice up) to 100 (one day matches), I start with 400 pieces of brass from the same manufacturer and lot. I reload these for the life of a barrel, 3000-4000 rounds and then typically retire them after that. Sometimes, if they still seem in good shape, I’ll use them longer.

I lose more brass at the matches than I do to failure, truth be told.

 

[L2bravo]

Everything said above is pretty much spot on. The biggest things that I see from your op are the mixed range brass and starting with only 100 pieces.

Mixed range brass is fine if you just want to go bang each time, but if you plan on chasing precision, you seriously need to consider using brass from the same manufacturer and preferably from he same lot. If your budget is really tight and you want/need to use range brass, at least try to sort it by manufacturer and use and load these lots separately.

As briefly mentioned above, if you shoot in lots of 100, start with at least 120 cases of the same type and age. As you lose a couple or few to split necks or loose primers, you will still be able to have 100 available for use from that same batch.

Personally, since I shoot matches that require as many as 300 rounds (two days plus practice up) to 100 (one day matches), I start with 400 pieces of brass from the same manufacturer and lot. I reload these for the life of a barrel, 3000-4000 rounds and then typically retire them after that. Sometimes, if they still seem in good shape, I’ll use them longer.

I lose more brass at the matches than I do to failure, truth be told.

Lash, sorry I wasn’t real clear. I am using actually 4 sets of 100. I have several thousand cases, of decent flavors. My budget isn’t super tight. Here’s my thinking; I’m new to reloading, is it actually smart to use a bunch of my Hornady/Lapua brass trying to learn?
Case in point, I was resizing my stuff what wound up like 7 or 8 thousandths. Yeah, didn’t know it wasn’t needed to be cranked that hard.

At least for now, I’m getting sub moa, and hope to get better. Thank you for the help!

 

[whatsupdoc]

Inspect your brass when it starts to fail scrap it. I dont play games, if the brass starts to fail I scrap the entire batch. There is no point in trying to save some cases in a batch that is showing signs of failure.
The case is your 50,000 PSI gas plug with your face inches away.

I have had some hornady brass that has lasted for 15 firings and some that failed after 8 in the same rifle using the same dies.
Brass that requires trimming more often fails quicker than brass that requires trimming very little. This depends on the rifle chamber die combination you are using.