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Using a Zero that isn't 100yd - Why?

Where is the best precision/bolt rifle zero?

  • 100yd (non-ELR)

  • 100yd (ELR+base/prism)

  • 200yd

  • 300yd

  • 400yd

  • 600yd

  • 1000yd

  • Other


Results are only viewable after voting.
If I recall BZO back in my day was 300 yards.

For my hunting rifle, I’m not a competitive shooter, I like a zero of 300 yards. This makes me 1-3” high at 100-175 yards. Plenty of room for a whitetail.
 
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If I recall BZO back in my day was 300 yards.

For my hunting rifle, I’m not a competitive shooter, I like a zero of 300 yards. This makes me 1-3” high at 100-175 yards. Plenty of room for a whitetail.
As with my age, I do not feel comfortable taking a shot on Game past 250-300 yards. So, i zero my hunting rifles at 200 yards. As Wes1391 says, ”Plenty of room for whitetail.”
 
With atmospherics being what they are, a 1 yard zero is the only way to be sure. Anything more is just asking for error from drift. Spin, wind, coriolis? Why take the chance.
 
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Page 1 was a bunch of nonsense and there’s still plenty on page 6, so I will assume there’s limited adult thoughts on 2-5 (that I didn’t read.)

Anyhow, on my short barrel 308 hunting rifle I zero at 50, second zero at 175. That gives me +/- .2mil for anything out to 200 yards where I don’t have to worry about it.

200-500 yards gives me time to dial and it’s extremely simple… I don’t have to reference written dope, add .5 for every 50 yards. (250=.5, 300=1, 350=1.5, etc)
 
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Page 1 was a bunch of nonsense and there’s still plenty on page 6, so I will assume there’s limited adult thoughts on 2-5 (that I didn’t read.)

Anyhow, on my short barrel 308 hunting rifle I zero at 50, second zero at 175. That gives me +/- .2mil for anything out to 200 yards where I don’t have to worry about it.

200-500 yards gives me time to dial and it’s extremely simple… I don’t have to reference written dope, add .5 for every 50 yards. (250=.5, 300=1, 350=1.5, etc)
For hunting I still zero at 100 then figure out my MPBR and then dial in the correction to get where I need to be. Depending on the round this usually gets me out to 350 ish no adjustments needed. Then I can still return to zero at the end of the day or dial out farther if needed.
 
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For hunting I still zero at 100 then figure out my MBPR and then dial in the correction to get where I need to be. Depending on the round this usually gets me out to 350 ish no adjustments needed. Then I can still return to zero at the end of the day or dial out farther if needed.

IMO, this is the easiest thing. Once you zero at 100yds......you can dial in any other "zero" you want. MPBR is a very powerful tool for hunters.

Using 100yds zero, you literally have unlimited options as to what you want to do after.
 
With atmospherics being what they are, a 1 yard zero is the only way to be sure. Anything more is just asking for error from drift. Spin, wind, coriolis? Why take the chance.
I have it on good authority RIverBoat Kerry is fixing "Climate Change." so you may have to re-think in a few years.
 
Hola tiradores. Yo siempre lo pongo a 100 metros. ¿Por qué..?
En primer lugar por que yo trabajo en miliradianes, en sistema métrico. Una cosa menos que calcular. 1 clic = 0´1 mil = 1cm a 100m.
Aparte es necesario una base inclinada y/o una torreta con 28 miliradianes como mínimo, así me aseguro que no pierdo clicks de correción en elevación y puedo tener el ( zeroing) a 100m y todo el poder de correción de la óptica en elevación disponible para largo alcance .

Por ejemplo en mi Bergara bmp del 6´5 Creedmoor tengo una Vortex con una elevación de 31 mil. Base inclinada Sphur del 9 mil y está puesto a cero a 100m con una pérdida de sólo 1,5 mil. O sea, tengo más de 29 mil de correción en alcance.

No. No. Y no.
 
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