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Night Vision Vortex Impact 4000 Rifle/Rail mounted Range finder???

Man those are some real “Brutes” you have on that wall!
 
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I like the left side as I can stay in the glass and run the reticle.
 
My only gripe personally so far is the lack of a lanyard loop for dummy cording the easy to lose remote to the rifle if you're using Velcro especially. I drilled a small hole and ran some high strength kevlar string through it and to the scope. I'm using this at Mammoth II and can't afford to lose it on a ruck or stage.
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My only gripe personally so far is the lack of a lanyard loop for dummy cording the easy to lose remote to the rifle if you're using Velcro especially. I drilled a small hole and ran some high strength kevlar string through it and to the scope. I'm using this at Mammoth II and can't afford to lose it on a ruck or stage.
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Brilliant idea!!!
 
Had to send my unit back. It had intermittent power issues under recoil. Guess there's a battery connection issue on some of them that causes it to lose power.

Called vortex and within ten minutes had a RMA in my inbox. They have the best CS I've ever encountered in a large company and possibly ever.
 
@Scott_at_Vortex has been amazing and so has their customer service. My tripod got stolen out of my truck this week and it had my remote attached to it, so I just sent CS an email to see what it takes to get a new one.
 
What's everyone running for batteries in the cold? Had a fresh Streamlight CR123 (non-rechargeable) die after about 20 min in ~15F temps over the weekend. Other stands weren't terribly long so I was able to get ranges at the start of each stand before the cold got to the battery.

Also ranger band paired with @CoryT 's night cover has been perfect. I tied it off to the unit with 30# Fireline and the band keeps everything from bumping around during the day. Because of how the filter is printed, the downward pressure of the band locks it into place really well

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Has the Bluetooth been reliable? I've had horrible experience with Bluetooth on many devices in the past. It's the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one of these yet.
 
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Has the Bluetooth been reliable? I've had horrible experience with Bluetooth on many devices in the past. It's the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger on one of these yet.
Bluetooth has been flawless for me
 
Oh sorry, the filter so I can use mine at night without lighting up the AO with the brightness of ten thousand LCD suns.
 
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What's everyone running for batteries in the cold? Had a fresh Streamlight CR123 (non-rechargeable) die after about 20 min in ~15F temps over the weekend. Other stands weren't terribly long so I was able to get ranges at the start of each stand before the cold got to the battery.

Also ranger band paired with @CoryT 's night cover has been perfect. I tied it off to the unit with 30# Fireline and the band keeps everything from bumping around during the day. Because of how the filter is printed, the downward pressure of the band locks it into place really well

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Get the rechargable 123s off of Amazon that come with a charger. They work great for several hours. That or buy a cable from @CoryT and run an external battery. I sent an new unopened one back to him last week.
 
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What's everyone running for batteries in the cold? Had a fresh Streamlight CR123 (non-rechargeable) die after about 20 min in ~15F temps over the weekend. Other stands weren't terribly long so I was able to get ranges at the start of each stand before the cold got to the battery.

Also ranger band paired with @CoryT 's night cover has been perfect. I tied it off to the unit with 30# Fireline and the band keeps everything from bumping around during the day. Because of how the filter is printed, the downward pressure of the band locks it into place really well

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The hot ticket us the USB cable, then you can run the thermal off the pack as well.
 
I have to figure out a tighter mount/diving board than the nightforce. I have an nx8 2.5-20 and a nf unimount, damn thing is way up in the air.
 
Spuhr with low raptar mount

ETA: @Jgunner I was able to use the low raptar and spacer on my MK5 3.6-18x44. Not sure what exactly would be needed for the NX8 but that worked well for me and should allow you to go as low as possible
 
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Spuhr with low raptar mount

ETA: @Jgunner I was able to use the low raptar and spacer on my MK5 3.6-18x44. Not sure what exactly would be needed for the NX8 but that worked well for me and should allow you to go as low as possible

4mm or 10mm spacer?
 
Question, say I’m slaving the laser to my 3” offset at 300 yard. Being that the visible laser prints a large slanted witness, am I to center the laser at .3 mil or float the bottom of the laser just above .3 mil?

I ask b/c I want total confidence in what I’m ranging is correct… no one needs a firing solution that is +/- 50 yards off at distance.


Note- I performed the zeroing process per vortex and got reliable/confirmed reading out to 600, as soon as I switched to a coyote target at 710, I had to search for a good hit/range on the target.
 
Question, say I’m slaving the laser to my 3” offset at 300 yard. Being that the visible laser prints a large slanted witness, am I to center the laser at .3 mil or float the bottom of the laser just above .3 mil?

I ask b/c I want total confidence in what I’m ranging is correct… no one needs a firing solution that is +/- 50 yards off at distance.


Note- I performed the zeroing process per vortex and got reliable/confirmed reading out to 600, as soon as I switched to a coyote target at 710, I had to search for a good hit/range on the target.
I centered my visible laser. I would do a near and far zero. I also found that out to 7-800 yards I would get repeatable hits but after that I would be high. At 1k I was .4 mils (or something like that) high or so, so I brought it down and was good from there.
 
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FYI on batteries. I tried the Orbtronic 800 mAh rechargeable battery which is 35.65 mm in length and it does sort of fit, but only has just under one thread of cap engagement. The Panasonic battery that came in the box is a bit better, but still only has a little more than one thread of engagement.

I have the newer KeepPower 16340 950 mAh rechargeable on the way and will update with fit and performance after it arrives. Reviews on it are good and it apparently does have the increased capacity it advertises. It is also the same length as a standard CR123 battery so hoping the fit is better than the other two I've tried.

http://illumn.com/16340-keeppower-950mah-rcr123a2-protected-button-top.html
 
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I centered my visible laser. I would do a near and far zero. I also found that out to 7-800 yards I would get repeatable hits but after that I would be high. At 1k I was .4 mils (or something like that) high or so, so I brought it down and was good from there.
If you have the distance the best practice that we have found is to put the reflective target/tape out at the max distance you will shoot. Align the vis laser to your reticle with that and you'll be good everywhere inside that distance and a good bit farther. I have used white targets at dusk at 1600m and can still see the vis laser. So the tape should be able to reflect it at much farther.
 
If you have the distance the best practice that we have found is to put the reflective target/tape out at the max distance you will shoot. Align the vis laser to your reticle with that and you'll be good everywhere inside that distance and a good bit farther. I have used white targets at dusk at 1600m and can still see the vis laser. So the tape should be able to reflect it at much farther.
Yeah that makes sense. Good info!
 
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Anyone else getting large changes in range on the same target? Mine ranged an 880 yard target at 881 and then I moved on to 1100 yard target. That one would not range so I went back to the 880 and it was ranging 1200 then 1123 and then 1090. Dropped down to a 250 yard target after and it was spot on but couldn’t range the longer distance stuff. This was my first outing with it.
 
FYI on batteries. I tried the Orbtronic 800 mAh rechargeable battery which is 35.65 mm in length and it does sort of fit, but only has just under one thread of cap engagement. The Panasonic battery that came in the box is a bit better, but still only has a little more than one thread of engagement.

I have the newer KeepPower 16340 950 mAh rechargeable on the way and will update with fit and performance after it arrives. Reviews on it are good and it apparently does have the increased capacity it advertises. It is also the same length as a standard CR123 battery so hoping the fit is better than the other two I've tried.

http://illumn.com/16340-keeppower-950mah-rcr123a2-protected-button-top.html
Got the new KeepPower 16340 950 mAh battery in. It is a bit shorter than the Panasonic that came with the Impact 4000, but I still only get just over 1 thread of cap engagement with it. Turns out there is only about one thread of engagement even with no battery in the compartment. :rolleyes: Should have checked that to begin with.

I tested the new battery by ranging to around 46 yards 1000 times over a 30 minute period. Battery voltage was at 4.2 volts before testing and 4.08 volts after testing was stopped. Ambient temp was 68 degrees. When I put the battery in the charger it showed the remaining charge was 91%. Remote and phone were paired and in use with GeoBallistics running. Seems like it would have continued working on that battery for quite a while longer.
 
Anyone else getting large changes in range on the same target? Mine ranged an 880 yard target at 881 and then I moved on to 1100 yard target. That one would not range so I went back to the 880 and it was ranging 1200 then 1123 and then 1090. Dropped down to a 250 yard target after and it was spot on but couldn’t range the longer distance stuff. This was my first outing with it.
Generally when we get calls with similar concerns, it is usually attributed to forgetting to dial scope back to zero. IF the user dialed after ranging. Feel free to reach out to us anytime with any questions.

Best regards
Scott
 
I got mine yesterday. I stumbled across them on the website last Friday. Still waiting on the mount to get here from Triad. I was on the fence with what company’s mount I was going to use on my AI. I could find the rail and not a 1.5” 0 moa mount or visa versa. I stumbled across Badger’s new rail and that was the deal maker for a max mount. Got lucky and Triad had 1 mount in stock.
 

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I got mine yesterday. I stumbled across them on the website last Friday. Still waiting on the mount to get here from Triad. I was on the fence with what company’s mount I was going to use on my AI. I could find the rail and not a 1.5” 0 moa mount or visa versa. I stumbled across Badger’s new rail and that was the deal maker for a max mount. Got lucky and Triad had 1 mount in stock.
Yeah when they sent the email I was hoping to see the Send-It mount, but these are cool too. I wonder if it'll clear Theta turrets. Spuhr low didn't for me, but Badger's ARC is a tall to start with.
 
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Generally when we get calls with similar concerns, it is usually attributed to forgetting to dial scope back to zero. IF the user dialed after ranging. Feel free to reach out to us anytime with any questions.

Best regards
Scott
This more than likely explains my issue. User error. Thanks for taking the time to respond here.
 
Generally when we get calls with similar concerns, it is usually attributed to forgetting to dial scope back to zero. IF the user dialed after ranging. Feel free to reach out to us anytime with any questions.

Best regards
Scott
Mine has been working flawlessly. I always dial back after ranging.

For most shots under 650 yards I use the reticle for hold over and wind so it’s never an issue

Past that if I have time
I range all my targets.

Dial my scope for elevation shoot
Turn knobs back to zero before ranging again

It’s just like forgetting to turn knobs to zero after shooting

I can’t tell you how many students for get to dial back after shooting and it ends up biting them
 
This is why I started putting red dots on my precision rifles, so I can range without dialing back to zero. Learned this trick from a buddy and it is a game changer. Especially when you have over a revolution of elevation in.
 
This is why I started putting red dots on my precision rifles, so I can range without dialing back to zero. Learned this trick from a buddy and it is a game changer. Especially when you have over a revolution of elevation in.
Care to share a picture of your setup? Curious what mounts you’re using for this. Thanks
 
This is why I started putting red dots on my precision rifles, so I can range without dialing back to zero. Learned this trick from a buddy and it is a game changer. Especially when you have over a revolution of elevation in.

I'm having a hard time seeing how this would be useful for targets that aren't easily visible with the naked eye.
 
I'm having a hard time seeing how this would be useful for targets that aren't easily visible with the naked eye.
Depends on conditions and target size, of course, but it is doable. That said, I predominantly use WMLRFs at night with a clip-on where it would be even more difficult to use a MRD in this capacity. I don't usually dial unless I'm outside my speed drop range or the target is TINY. I like having an offset MRD anyways but don't usually use it to aim the LRF. YMMV.
 
How does it work when swapping from one rifle to another? Unless the scope heights are the same then wouldn’t the rangefinder offset be off?
 
Generally when we get calls with similar concerns, it is usually attributed to forgetting to dial scope back to zero. IF the user dialed after ranging. Feel free to reach out to us anytime with any questions.

Best regards
Scott
That’s exactly what happened to me on my first outing, thought it got wonky cause of recoil and on drive home realized I kept shooting further and further and lightbulb went off, sure enough I had forgotten to dial back to zero. Hopefully won’t make that mistake again.
 
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Care to share a picture of your setup? Curious what mounts you’re using for this. Thanks
Not the best image, but I have a SPUHR mount -> side picatinny -> 45deg offset picatinny -> red dot mount. Little clugy, but it puts the dot in the next best place besides 12 o’clock. I use the Trijicon triangle reticle so I can align it with the tip which is more precise than a huge dot at range.

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Not the best image, but I have a SPUHR mount -> side picatinny -> 45deg offset picatinny -> red dot mount. Little clugy, but it puts the dot in the next best place besides 12 o’clock. I use the Trijicon triangle reticle so I can align it with the tip which is more precise than a huge dot at range.

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Exactly how I run mine. Good taste. 😬
 
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I’ve moved the BT so many times to find the perfect position, I finally decided to drill/tap the lower extension on my elite chassis.
 

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I’ve moved the BT so many times to find the perfect position, I finally decided to drill/tap the lower extension on my elite chassis.
Dude, I seen your post the other day. It’s had my gears turning trying to figure something out on this Vision chassis. Either milling the bagrider or 3d printing a filler piece. I haven’t quite figured it out nor had the stones to chop it up. For the same reasons, I think that’s about the perfect spot for it also.
 

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Dude, I seen your post the other day. It’s had my gears turning trying to figure something out on this Vision chassis. Either milling the bagrider or 3d printing a filler piece. I haven’t quite figured it out nor had the stones to chop it up. For the same reasons, I think that’s about the perfect spot for it also.
Dude, I seen your post the other day. It’s had my gears turning trying to figure something out on this Vision chassis. Either milling the bagrider or 3d printing a filler piece. I haven’t quite figured it out nor had the stones to chop it up. For the same reasons, I think that’s about the perfect spot for it also.
If the damn remote was 1/3 the size ( just 1 button to fire the laser), it’d tuck perfectly in that spot.

That said, bag riders are cheap enough, but 3d printing a few different versions to find exactly how you like it sounds like a winner.
 
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If the damn remote was 1/3 the size ( just 1 button to fire the laser), it’d tuck perfectly in that spot.

That said, bag riders are cheap enough, but 3d printing a few different versions to find exactly how you like it sounds like winner.
I'm quoting this simply to reiterate to Scott that we want some single button remotes that only have the fire button and we want a supply of extras we can buy and stick em all over the place!! Please Scott!!