Sold last week thanks for the offer.
- Thread starter Andrew863
- Start date
T3s are drying up, but I've bought three at $450, $550, and $575. Yes, the T3 has an aluminum lug, but who's actually using that? Every chassis/aftermarket stock is going to have a steel lug anyways. If you buy a T3X, which most are doing, you have a steel shroud.
Tikka comes with a trigger that's good to go out of the box. I prefer my T3 trigger and $10 spring to my Bix'n Andy Tacsport. All the Origins I've tried I wasn't impressed with.
Does a Tikka compare favorably against a bighorn, yes. Does it compare favorably with my Lone Peak Fuzion, no. But like has been said earlier, an origin with a TT Special is going to cost you $1200, where a donor Tikka and trigger cost you anywhere from $500 to $800.
People touting that they're not in the same ballpark are just defending their spending decisions. My K525i still has CA and a narrow FOV, but it's European glass and costs over $3k, so it's obviously better than your mk5.
WHAT....a 260....no 6.5 CoolMoor???? Blasphemy, simply, Blasphemy, I tell you. But, to your specific question......UH....maybe $1000-$4000 for possibly 1/4" of diminishing returns.....if the shooter isn't the weakest link in the Consistency is King equation. I'd recommend to get a Tac A1 in 6mm and shoot it until the gun is the weak link......but, alas, 6mm is not offered by Tikka. Also, TAC A1 was offered only in 0MOA. Unless they have change that, you might consider another option like the Ruger Precision Rifle in 6mm., until you are the weak link.
I don't have much time for competitive shooting anymore but did it for years and loved my Tikka rifles but had to move away from them. I still think they are the best action for the money for MOST things. They are incredibly smooth and the factory trigger does not need to be upgraded.
The reason I stopped using them was the bolt stops. Went to a club match and another guy running a Tikka broke his bolt stop pin. We taped a sharpie to the stock to stop the bolt and he finished the match. Mine broke on the very next stage. I replaced it and it broke again months later. That was on a 223. My original Tikka (6.5 CM) I had shot for years had never had an issue and I used it hard. When I finally took it out of the chassis it had been in for years I found that the bolt stop pin was in fact broken but was jammed in there in such a way that there's no way it was coming out. Two of my friends who ran Tikka's also suffered from broken bolt stop pins.
I think the main cause is shooting from positions such as rooftops where you are putting more pressure on the bolt than usual because you are almost hanging on the rifle.
I don't think there is a fix because there is not enough meat in the receiver where the pin goes to use a larger pin. That being said if you are mostly a prone shooter or hunter and not shooting in a lot of odd positions under stress they are a smooth, lightweight affordable option.
-Dan
The reason I stopped using them was the bolt stops. Went to a club match and another guy running a Tikka broke his bolt stop pin. We taped a sharpie to the stock to stop the bolt and he finished the match. Mine broke on the very next stage. I replaced it and it broke again months later. That was on a 223. My original Tikka (6.5 CM) I had shot for years had never had an issue and I used it hard. When I finally took it out of the chassis it had been in for years I found that the bolt stop pin was in fact broken but was jammed in there in such a way that there's no way it was coming out. Two of my friends who ran Tikka's also suffered from broken bolt stop pins.
I think the main cause is shooting from positions such as rooftops where you are putting more pressure on the bolt than usual because you are almost hanging on the rifle.
I don't think there is a fix because there is not enough meat in the receiver where the pin goes to use a larger pin. That being said if you are mostly a prone shooter or hunter and not shooting in a lot of odd positions under stress they are a smooth, lightweight affordable option.
-Dan
What aftermarket upgrades?
Funny coming from a former Brit if I'm reading your handle right.
Besides I have no problem with the Finnish. Ever heard of Simo Hayha or Lauri Torni (Larry Thorne)? Both awesome dudes.
Simo
Lauri
Winter war
I’m a poor and only have one custom, a budget one at that.
Your not losing anything with a tikka, besides a heavier bolt lift and the ability to shoot a cartridge with over 3.3” coal.
Maybe something will go wrong on the third barrel and my bolt will blow up. We will see I guess.
Your not losing anything with a tikka, besides a heavier bolt lift and the ability to shoot a cartridge with over 3.3” coal.
Maybe something will go wrong on the third barrel and my bolt will blow up. We will see I guess.
on top of that. If needed I can buy about any part needed, bolt, firing pin, bolt stop. Got a box of fix tikka stuff box. none of it has been needed yet.
My close friend had it happen to him at fouled bore in Oklahoma and back home in Texas. Broken firing pin and something els bolt related.
I had one in 6.5 creed as well but I never had a failure in a full season and I was rough with it. So it may happen may not. I would still run one for comp use but in 223 or a tamer 6mm.
They simply cannot take the abuse that a impact or surgeon can.
The weak point in a tikka is usually the bolt stop. Ive never had an issue but some people have. Run the bolt like a human and it won't be a problem. Run it like a coked out Gorilla and u might break it.
My solution to the bolt problem was to use my brain a little. I think Tikka may use a hardened pin that is actually bad for the intended use on our end. I have broken a couple pins, but ended up making my own from large diameter piano wire. the wire is way tougher with a lot more shear resistance than the stock pin. All it takes is a little thinking to solve a simple problem. I've yet to break a spring wire pin in about 3 yrs of comp use. If a little pin is the main complaint, I think the tikka is doing ok.
Doubly ironic. This @Andrew863 . This CS is what you'll be giving up with a Tikka.Irony
Surgeon CS
Havnt seen anything on surgeon in a couple years on year pretty much and the last of all I had seen was inability to reach them or get parts. Sooo I finally broke a firing pin and this week when I can hardly reach anybody in an office(I work healthcare construction so I’m on the phone a lot)...www.snipershide.com
My only interaction with Tikka CS was excellent. Used their online chat, had a 10 min conversation and had a replacement part in the mail the next day.
For a build as long as the action is fine day one customer service is way down on the list of things I care about. I'm still on the fence about what action to get. This thread hasn't really helped lol. I am dealing with CZ right now on a gun that has a issue and they have the worst customer service I have ever seen. The guy pretty much said send the gun in if it shoots a 2in group or better we'll have it back in 8 weeks. He didn't give a damn to even try to help.
Do you already have a 700 type action? If yes maybe go custom.
Are you wanting to shoot it right from when you buy it? Go Tikka.
At this point they're both good options. Can't really go wrong with either.
Now if you were asking Savage that's a different story.
Actual headspace measurements from recent Tikkas, only stopped because I didn’t want to get another binder out.
My point is they’re freakishly consistent, even compared to custom actions.
And PVA, we make lots of them. I'll put our prefits up against anyone's.
I don't know where the hate comes up from but I'll say I am very impressed with the Tikka action. It feels better than many of the customs I owned a decade ago to be honest. There are shortcomings but this is true of any action, including customs. The bolt shroud is a total red herring. The gun works with the shroud removed, who cares that it's made of plastic.
As far as accuracy goes I think this is probably one of the hardest thigns to swallow: The action is better than 99.99% of the shooters. It's a nicety thing.
I love threads like this... reminds me of the old Hide.
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I don’t hate them. Not even a little bit. In fact, I’ve really liked them since they came out. I’m a way early adopter (LH SS 223 1:8”) and current owner. They’re great for what they are, a quality budget rifle. I just appreciate them from my feet instead of my knees.
The topic of this thread is what does a guy give up choosing a Tikka over a custom, guys are talking like they’re upgrades to a Surgeon, and I’m the one you can’t understand? Really?
You want me to start compiling Beretta CS problems? You’re gonna need cheek kegels.Suck it Kelly!
Resurrecting this thread ... (sorry) ... In scanning this, I couldn't see anyplace recommended where I can buy a new action (stock or custom) for my Tikka T3x TAC A1 (6.5-CM). Any recommendations are appreciated.
jaoutdoors.com I know they use to have them. U can sometimes find the complete guns cheaper the just the action and sell the parts u don't use.
Also curious why u need a new action for your tac A1.
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You do? That’s good to hear. I have a tikka action with a proof barrel on it. Been thinking about an origin in the future. But don’t know if it’s any difference
Nothing wrong with the origin, and the modular bolt face is awesome.
I would have to say the origin is a better action. If nothing more just in the machine work and the ability to run remington triggers, but with that said my tac a1 was still a great gun and never held me back at all. I would sell the Tikka again to to get the origin. If your just a long range shooter that isn't competing you will probably not notice much of a difference and a tac a1 would do anything you would need.
As someone who will probably only run small calibers through a Tikka, they might have a couple more advantages in my niche than a Rem or custom Rem clone. Or might not. Let me know if I’m wrong.
Again, I don’t own a CTR-compatible Tikka yet, so I might be off base here on #1.
Let me know what you think.
- The 10rd 223 CTR mag is much shorter than a comparable AICS, which is nice for some things (hunting, shooting pdogs off a bench, maybe more mag clearance shooting off, say, a RRS TVC tripod with just a leveler (no ballhead).
- For a small caliber walk-around handy rifle, the smaller/lighter receiver is ideal.
Again, I don’t own a CTR-compatible Tikka yet, so I might be off base here on #1.
Let me know what you think.
I should note that I got unlucky with my bought-new Super Varmint, so it ain’t all 
& 
. The inside of the firing pin hole looked like a Martian landscape and that increased friction was causing some light strikes, especially in colder weather. Sent it off to Tikka mid-Dec. 
& . The inside of the firing pin hole looked like a Martian landscape and that increased friction was causing some light strikes, especially in colder weather. Sent it off to Tikka mid-Dec. 
