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Suppressors what are the cool guys using on suppressor threads?

rockwind1

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Minuteman
Feb 16, 2017
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westworld
I usually put a dab of phil's tenacious oil before threading on suppressor stuff, to help get it off later. is there anything way better to use?
 
Never had a problem with this. I’ve had the same tube for a couple years. Doesn’t take much and stores easy in your range bag.

 
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Permatex brake parts lubricant works better than antiseize. Whether it’s nickel or copper they can react with metals and cause issues. I have also had the copper antiseize corrode. The purple brake parts lubricant is fully synthetic and works great and has a 3000 degree temperature rating.
 

Yup, this tube will last forever. Caution not to store it in your range bag unless it’s inside a baggie or container to prevent it getting on the bag.

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I use a very light coat of red loctite. It won't hold in the long term and just adds resistance to direct thread suppressors. Everyone frets about DT coming loose. You just need a little bit of thread filler to keep them tight.
 
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I use clean dry threads.
man, just as there was a consensus to use some type of lube, someone has to throw a grenade in the pool! question: with my first suppressors, years ago, I would put them on dry, leave them on for a while, and it seemed they got "stuck" on and i would have to constantly put them in the vice (barrel vice" to get them undone,, and even then, the main part of the suppressor would come off the threaded part.
does that happen with you? maybe you take them on and off so much, it doesn't have time to get stuck?
 
man, just as there was a consensus to use some type of lube, someone has to throw a grenade in the pool! question: with my first suppressors, years ago, I would put them on dry, leave them on for a while, and it seemed they got "stuck" on and i would have to constantly put them in the vice (barrel vice" to get them undone,, and even then, the main part of the suppressor would come off the threaded part.
does that happen with you? maybe you take them on and off so much, it doesn't have time to get stuck?
It happens to me for sure. That's why I just quit using suppressor adapters and started direct threading them. A lot of people don't want to direct thread them bc they think they will walk free and they need some sort of taper to lock the suppressor on. It seems like it depends barrel to barrel, how much thread clearance you have, how secure a direct thread will be. Sometimes a little machine oil could be good, and sometimes a little bit of filler could be good. My most recent barrel has really tight threads and as I screwing an Ultra 7 on(with all kinds of gunk and carbon in the CB threads) it got really tight the last two turns. To the point I was afraid of galling so I unscrewed it and put a dab of machine oil on the threads. I would say it depends on your muzzle threads. In a perfect world they should all be cut perfectly and dry clean threads would be the answer.
 
Rocksett! though that's on the HUB threads and my QD adapters

the direct thread .22 is either clean dry threads or a little anti-seize if I plan on dumping a lot of rounds.
 
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Rocksett for QD adapters and plumbers tape for direct thread.

When I put a suppressor on a QA/QD, I will place the buttstock the rifle on the ground/floor while tilting it back a little on the top of the butt stock, then brace the QD attachment with a wrench while hand tightening or loosening the suppressor with my other hand. This way your not repeatedly torquing down the adapter on and off the threads of the rifle each time you mount or dismount a suppressor. You can find yourself unscrewing your QD adapter with your suppressor after X amount of times taking it on and off. And if you find yourself putting any pressure on the muzzle threads, the rifle will just spin a little letting you know to get it right.
 
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Rocksett for QD adapters and plumbers tape for direct thread.

When I put a suppressor on a QA/QD, I will place the buttstock the rifle on the ground/floor while tilting it back a little on the top of the butt stock, then brace the QD attachment with a wrench while hand tightening or loosening the suppressor with my other hand. This way your not repeatedly torquing down the adapter on and off the threads of the rifle each time you mount or dismount a suppressor. You can find yourself unscrewing your QD adapter with your suppressor after X amount of times taking it on and off. And if you find yourself putting any pressure on the muzzle threads, the rifle will just spin a little letting you know to get it right.
excellent idea
 
man, just as there was a consensus to use some type of lube, someone has to throw a grenade in the pool! question: with my first suppressors, years ago, I would put them on dry, leave them on for a while, and it seemed they got "stuck" on and i would have to constantly put them in the vice (barrel vice" to get them undone,, and even then, the main part of the suppressor would come off the threaded part.
does that happen with you? maybe you take them on and off so much, it doesn't have time to get stuck?
I take the can off after every session...sort of eliminates the frozen in place issue. Also, I use 419 mounts and there are wrench flats on the part that screws into the can....takes care of the issue that way also.

Plenty of carbon seems to get into the threads so....bit of carbon remover and clean them up every time I clean the rifle.