• Get 30% off the first 3 months with code HIDE30

    Offer valid until 9/23! If you have an annual subscription on Sniper's Hide, subscribe below and you'll be refunded the difference.

    Subscribe

  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

Gunsmithing What is the best bedding compound?

#2
The most available/common are
Devcon 10110
Acraglass
Marine Tex

I use devcon but that little jar will dry out if you only do one stock a year which makes it one of the more expensive options but its pretty thick and easy to handle.
Marine tex has the lowest shrinkage rate among them but it a bit more liquid and harder to keep from flowing.
Arcaglass is probably what Ill try next if my devcon is dried out already since I can get it in the cool little easy to use hotglue gun type dispenser.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mudpig
#3
I use devcon 11410(wear resistant). It’s what my mentor used. Looking at the specs, all the appropriate devcons are pretty high quality materials.

I bought some Marine-Tex recently, which i’ll try out soon. Seems highly regarded. ya

Your preparation and technique in doing the job will be the most critical factor imo.
 
#4
I have used Devcon 10110 in the past but the last stock I did I switched to Marine-tex grey and will be using it from now on.
Both give excellent result but the price of Marine-Tex is about half that of the Devcon that I only used about half of and it was mostly set up by the time I needed it again.
 
#6
I now use Marine-Tex based on a recommendation from my rifle builder. I buy the 2oz kits because I don't bed many rifles and the shelf life isn't great, a 2oz kit will bed 1-2 rifles. I've used Devcon in the past, and had no problems with it other than the hardener drying up on the shelf.
 
#7
Devcon Fasmetal 10 D19770, mix it up and add some black dye so no one knows what compound you're using (or printer toner if you're a cheap ass) spread it thin on a sheet of glass with a putty knife & let the bubbles settle out, then scrape it up with the putty knife and scoop it into the inlet. Use your wife's hair dryer to get the compound thinner and use some popsicle sticks to poke remaining bubbles out. Gotta keep from going full retard with the heat gun or you'll cure the epoxy before you even get the action on there.
 
#10
Used them all over the years. Won't use anything other than Pro Bedding 2000 now. Cheap, impossible to mess up, and you can customize you're texture. I liked Devcon and Marine-Tex prior. Switched mainly do to cost.
 
#11
FjallJager said:
I have not bedded one in about 5 years, I used to use Acraglass or Bisonite.

My Australian gunsmith buddy uses DEVCON, and swears by it.

What are you guys using and why?
Click to expand...
I have used many different ones but I keep going back to JB Weld. I have some rifles that have been bedded with it for 25+ yrs, no issues. If I'm in a hurry, I use JB Kwik most of the time, just need everything ready to go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Walldiver7, pilotjoe, GONE BAD and 1 other person
#13
larryh128 said:
I have used many different ones but I keep going back to JB Weld. I have some rifles that have been bedded with it for 25+ yrs, no issues. If I'm in a hurry, I use JB Kwik most of the time, just need everything ready to go.
Click to expand...
Just normal JB weld? Havent heard too much about that i dont think. Havent bedded one yet but i plan on doing one of my cheap used .22s to get the feel for it so i dont mess up one of my good rifles.
 
#16
I've bedded 2 or 3 stocks with JB weld and 1 with JB kwik. It works; no complaints yet.

The secret to any bedding system is in two key sectors:

1. Don't compress the stock material
a. If you have a composite stock with heavy, fiber-reinforced epoxy (on manners, this is dark grey color) you don't need to worry about pillars
b. If you have an aluminum chassis where the dead-bottom 6 o'clock portion of the receiver makes contact with the aluminum, you don't need to worry about bedding.
c. If you have light colored soft foam or wood, you need pillars

2. Support 3 areas on the bottom of the receiver
a. A ring around the front action screw
b. A ring around the rear action screw
c. The rear of the recoil lug, squarely

Do those things and you should never have a problem. Don't put any goo in the stock until the action sits where it's supposed to, stress-free. You'll notice good chassis systems (Manners mini-chassis, for example) do this exactly. Some simple V-block chassis do not-- They have a gap between the bottom of the receiver and the bottom of the V block-- and are much more sensitive to action screw torque & repeatable POI removing/reinstalling the action.

It doesn't have to look pretty, and it doesn't require any more epoxy (usually) than will fit on top of a quarter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jd138, Sagewind, DIBBS and 2 others
#17
My 25-06 was bedded with accraglass over 25 years ago and it was still hard as a rock when I pulled it out last winter.

I know it may not be the most popular, but I'll have to say it does work and holds up over time and cleanings. (That barrel wouldn't shoot clean or dirty, 5-40 rounds were the good ones then groups went haywire, 60's era factory 700 action and barrel).
 
  • Like
Reactions: LG65CM
#18
Warlok813 said:
Just normal JB weld? Havent heard too much about that i dont think. Havent bedded one yet but i plan on doing one of my cheap used .22s to get the feel for it so i dont mess up one of my good rifles.
Click to expand...
Either normal or kwik (5min) depending upon your time etc. I normally use kwik because everything is ready to go and literally within 10 minutes, I'm popping the action. Soft? Not a chance. Acraglass is fairly soft. Devcon putty is good but JB is cheap and works well. Make sure your parts are prepped well with release agent. My favorite is a spray made by Wurth HSS-K. A synthetic spray "oil" that is VERY adhesive, withstands high temps and pressures. They just come apart, best I've ever used, makes shoe polish look like junk. Also very good on bolt lugs.
 
#19
I've experimented with many products including jb weld products, pro bed, devcon putty, acra glass, marine Tex, and some expensive stuff. What I found is pretty much all of it can be used and do a decent job if you have good technique.

As far as shrinkage goes and how it finishes up devcon steel putty is great as well as pro bed although I personally like to add in silica powder to thicken the pro bed and make it less runny. Those would be my first two choices for common epoxies.

Someone I came across that is my number one pick but extremely expensive if you have more than just one gun to do is Huntsman Araldite 2014 High-Temp Chemical-Proof Epoxy Gel. Nothing I've used finishes as nice as this stuff, it's extremely strong, very great to work with. While I find devcon to not shrink and give me nearly no deflection the araldite stuff is even better. Last time I ordered it I used Amazon and it's about $40 for a 2oz tube (ouch).
 
#25
7096971
when getting the job done takes longer than you thought , and it needs more than you got , now your covered it comes in a 55 gallon drum now get in there champ and win one for the gippard .
 
#26
Ended up using the Acraglass.

I made some mistakes, but I'll do it again next time. Their release agent sucks.

Does anyone know what the best release agent is? I have heard that automotive wax works really well.
 
#27
Turtle Wax does work, but I much prefer Partall Paste #2. It comes in a dark green can and looks just like auto wax. I have no idea what's in it that's different (if anything, maybe it's just different ratios) but there's just no missing with it. Even a thin sheen and the epoxy won't stick at all and parts come clean like nothing. Not that I've had any big problems using auto wax as a release agent, it's just this stuff is clearly superior.

Again, no idea what's going on, but personal experience it just works way, way better. $20 for a can that will last you five lifetimes.
 
#28
FjallJager said:
Does anyone know what the best release agent is? I have heard that automotive wax works really well.
Click to expand...

Johnson paste wax. They also make a fiberglass mold release wax, but for $6 you won't need the special stuff.
www.homedepot.com

SC Johnson 1 lb. Fine Wood Paste Wax 203 - The Home Depot

SC Johnson Paste Wax deep-cleans a variety of surfaces, including wood furniture, hardwood floors and metal, leather, plastic, cork and vinyl surfaces. Its original blend of hard-finish waxes produces
www.homedepot.com
 
  • Like
Reactions: Awesymoto
#29
All you want:

1. A high percentage of solids by volume.
2. High shore hardness once cured.
3. Low shrinkage.
4. High tolerance to acid/alkali exposure
5. Be ferrous free (that shit will rust)
6. Long "open clamp time" -last thing you want is it going off as your trying to fit stuff up.

There are a number of products that do this well.

What I avoid like the bubonic plague:

Acraglass gel. My reason is that the stuff has ground nylon added as a filler. Nylon is very hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture. Not the first thing on my list to have parked next to a steel receiver. The other reason is it's clumpy. You get balls of tapioca because the nylon can be reluctant to blend properly into the resin base. Ignore this and you end up with little softballs of gummy bear bits stuck in your bedding job.

There's just no good reason from my chair to use the stuff because there are so many other products that do a great job.

Release agent: The stuff I sell on my store, McLube 1700L. I've used it religiously for 15 years because there's nothing better. Its designed specifically for this kind of work. Shoe polish and One Shot are not. I realize many have good luck with other materials however McLube removes all doubt, any question(s), and the results are repeatable, scalable, and reliable.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Oldloser, scharfschutze762, DIBBS and 1 other person
#30
I’ve had good luck with devcon. I have several 1 lb (2 part) Devcon kits stainless steel , plastic steel , possibly aluminum and titanium kits as well. Pm me if interested . If I get around to it maybe I’ll list them in the post exchange.
 
#31
FjallJager said:
Ended up using the Acraglass.

I made some mistakes, but I'll do it again next time. Their release agent sucks.

Does anyone know what the best release agent is? I have heard that automotive wax works really well.
Click to expand...
I just bedded my old M77/22mag last night using Devcon Steel Putty and Hornady One Shot Case lube as a release agent for the first time. Previously I'd use Kiwi neutral shoe polish with good success. The case lube is much easier to apply..... I'll report back if it doesn't come out.

i-pxvzMF8-M.jpg
 
#33
I don't know what "best" is cause I've only used 2, brownells acraglass, worked great, and what I use now: devcon, I think it's 10110, I'll have to check when I get home. It's super hard and had steel particles in it.

Works really really well
 
Last edited:
#35
Never had a rusting issue with Devcon 10110, I like it over Marine-Tex just because I find MT to be more sensitive to mix ratio.
For a full receiver pillar bed job I prefer a spray release agent because it's faster/easier to apply and gets in all the little crevices. Small area- kiwi or carnauba paste wax.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Fig
#39
Lots of ways to skin this cat, but the info has been presented and it wasn't a brand....it is specs.

Look for low shrinkage, high psi and chemical resistance.

There is a reason that devcon gets used so often even though the cost is high....it's an easy product to warranty.

You can use quick cure epoxies....heck, even bondo in a pinch, but they don't check all of the same boxes.
 
#41
I used 3m 8115 panel bond adhesive for bedding . It was the easiest thing I have ever used. I wish I had kept the stock and seen how it held up. Has anyone ever used it an seen how it holds up?
 
#42
I’ve bedded two in the last week with marinetex. As others have mentioned it is a bit thinner. I did not pillar bed my rifles so it does run down in to the holes for the action screws. While not the end of the world and doesn’t effect function, I would like to have a mill to flip the stock upside down and drill the holes back out so it looks cleaner. Otherwise I think marinetex is a very good product.
 
#44
Old thread, but I've met smiths that liked AcraGlass and DevCon. My current smith, that I've been using since around 2012, likes DevCon. I concur. I've never had an issue with it. 👍🏼
 
Last edited:
#46
I mainly use Loctite/Araldite while its expensive, alternatives like Marine-Tex are not widely available in EU , shrinkage is where its at , unless you plan to redo the bedding every season, which is quite often done by some folks in the BR world particularly in wood stocks that move quite a bit.

epoxy resin shrinkage is typicaly 2-7% but depends on fillers, in any case, shrinkage is volumetric so the thicker the bedding more it shrinks. I would actually be surprised if the 0.1% Speedy mentioned for Marine tex is quite accurate as much of the shrinkage occurred before he machined the blocks to size. So was more a test of long-term stability than overall shrinkage.


''Speedy about bedding compounds. Speedy offered some interesting advice based on long-term testing of various materials. Speedy favors Marine-Tex because it is very stable over time, while other materials can shrink up to 6% dimensionally. A good bedding job should be a perfect fit to your barreled action. If the bedding material shrinks over time, that is NOT a good thing….

Speedy’s customer asked: “I know you’re not a Devcon man in regards to bedding compounds but I respect your input in such matters and my question is this in regard to aluminum actions. If Devcon was considered, for an aluminum action, would you prefer aluminum compound formula or steel formula? I personally prefer Devcon steel and Marine-Tex for steel receivers but my experience with aluminum is limited. Also do you have a release agent preference that works better with aluminum?”

Speedy answered: “My only preference of one epoxy over another is their stability over time. My buddy who works for the Texas State Weights and Measures Department had me cast several of the most common types of epoxies used for bedding into 1.000″ machined blocks. After one year of being kept in a controlled climate and measured for shrinkage monthly, the Marine Tex shrunk only 1/10th of 1% (i.e. 0.1%) whereas almost all the others (including Devcon Steel formula, Devcon Aluminum formula…) shrunk 3% to 6%. The only other compounds that matched the Marine Tex were Araldite 1253 and Araldite 2014, with the latter being quite expensive for daily use.”
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: TheBlackSmith and scharfschutze762
#49
Mr.BR said:
I mainly use Loctite/Araldite while its expensive, alternatives like Marine-Tex are not widely available in EU , shrinkage is where its at , unless you plan to redo the bedding every season, which is quite often done by some folks in the BR world particularly in wood stocks that move quite a bit.

epoxy resin shrinkage is typicaly 2-7% but depends on fillers, in any case, shrinkage is volumetric so the thicker the bedding more it shrinks. I would actually be surprised if the 0.1% Speedy mentioned for Marine tex is quite accurate as much of the shrinkage occurred before he machined the blocks to size. So was more a test of long-term stability than overall shrinkage.


''Speedy about bedding compounds. Speedy offered some interesting advice based on long-term testing of various materials. Speedy favors Marine-Tex because it is very stable over time, while other materials can shrink up to 6% dimensionally. A good bedding job should be a perfect fit to your barreled action. If the bedding material shrinks over time, that is NOT a good thing….

Speedy’s customer asked: “I know you’re not a Devcon man in regards to bedding compounds but I respect your input in such matters and my question is this in regard to aluminum actions. If Devcon was considered, for an aluminum action, would you prefer aluminum compound formula or steel formula? I personally prefer Devcon steel and Marine-Tex for steel receivers but my experience with aluminum is limited. Also do you have a release agent preference that works better with aluminum?”

Speedy answered: “My only preference of one epoxy over another is their stability over time. My buddy who works for the Texas State Weights and Measures Department had me cast several of the most common types of epoxies used for bedding into 1.000″ machined blocks. After one year of being kept in a controlled climate and measured for shrinkage monthly, the Marine Tex shrunk only 1/10th of 1% (i.e. 0.1%) whereas almost all the others (including Devcon Steel formula, Devcon Aluminum formula…) shrunk 3% to 6%. The only other compounds that matched the Marine Tex were Araldite 1253 and Araldite 2014, with the latter being quite expensive for daily use.”
Click to expand...
Seems like there are a lot of variables to this and I would be curious to see the actual test. And for me I would assume that even at 5% shrinkage me just torquing my action screw to the correct torque would compress the bedding material, my pillars and the stock enough to remove the small amount of shrinkage from the issue. If I havent shot a rifle in a year, I would generally retorque it prior to shooting it any ways.
 
#50
If your talking about a $4000 rifle the small bottle of Devcon is cheap. I've used JB Steel for cheap rifles whefe I didn't want to spend as much on epoxy as I did on the stock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
Gunsmithing HS Precision stock bedding block restoration
Replies
7
Views
263
Crgchck
C
A
Spartan Precision Rifles & Manners Composite Stocks
Replies
7
Views
230
Terry Cross
Terry Cross
stello1001
Gunsmithing Can i get an opinion on this bedding job
Replies
19
Views
1K
stello1001
stello1001
eastexsteve
Learn to feed yourself!
Replies
113
Views
2K
TexPatriot
T
U
Advice on Custom 7 mm PRC Rifle with Accuracy Issues
Replies
24
Views
402
shootertom
S
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts