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What's the deal with Tikka?

Also another benefit of the Tikka action is there’s no difference in footprint from a long to short action. So one size chassis or stock fits both. Don’t have to pick one or the other, and you decide to rebarrel down the road, you can use the same chassis.
Gonna be tough getting those long action cartridges in a short action magazine and through a short action magwell. ?

may work for a stock by switching bottom metal but not a chassis.
 
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My Tikka and KRG Bravo will be here on Friday. Will it be a quick swap out for the chassis? Not sure when the Yodave spring will be here. Thanks for the recommendation of a $10 spring with $9 shipping o_O for those of you who recommended it

Should be a quick and easy swap for the chassis! Do note that the KRG Bravo has a screw near the rear tang that holds the stock to the backbone. It comes from the factory hand tight, its supposed to be that way. After installing the barrelled action into the backbone, then you tighten that tang screw per the included instructions (I think like 45in).
So far I love the Tikka Bravo combo. Probably the best bang for your buck combo. My worst group ever is still right under 3/4moa. No jams or hiccups. Runs so smooth. Love using the CTR mags with the Bravo too.
 
Should be a quick and easy swap for the chassis! Do note that the KRG Bravo has a screw near the rear tang that holds the stock to the backbone. It comes from the factory hand tight, its supposed to be that way. After installing the barrelled action into the backbone, then you tighten that tang screw per the included instructions (I think like 45in).
So far I love the Tikka Bravo combo. Probably the best bang for your buck combo. My worst group ever is still right under 3/4moa. No jams or hiccups. Runs so smooth. Love using the CTR mags with the Bravo too.
Nice. I will play around this weekend with it. I bought the AICS mag bravo.
 
Gonna be tough getting those long action cartridges in a short action magazine and through a short action magwell. ?

may work for a stock by switching bottom metal but not a chassis.


My Cadex Comp lite can change the Magwell and trigger guard area to accept larger mags... It’s one piece that you can order for about $100. ?
 
My Cadex Comp lite can change the Magwell and trigger guard area to accept larger mags... It’s one piece that you can order for about $100. ?
I didnt know that. Nice option and by your comment, less expensive than other cadex parts. Lol
 
The biggest benefit of the tikka LA and SA sharing a foot print is if you found a good deal on a 30-06 but you wanted to shoot 6.5cm, all you have to do is rebarrel to new cal and change bolt stop and you have a .475 bolt head, short throw action.
 
Should be a quick and easy swap for the chassis! Do note that the KRG Bravo has a screw near the rear tang that holds the stock to the backbone. It comes from the factory hand tight, its supposed to be that way. After installing the barrelled action into the backbone, then you tighten that tang screw per the included instructions (I think like 45in).
So far I love the Tikka Bravo combo. Probably the best bang for your buck combo. My worst group ever is still right under 3/4moa. No jams or hiccups. Runs so smooth. Love using the CTR mags with the Bravo too.

I will simply add that when doing a component comparison (considering a custom setup), I noted that the 2.7 lbs advertised weight for the KRG Bravo is the same weight advertised for a Manners EH-1A...at ~half the price, w/o the multi-month wait. If an adjustable cheek piece is a must have, the Bravo punches in the same weight class as hand laid carbon fiber stocks, if that matters to you.

I ignored building off a Tikka for a while...but, with a KRG SOTIC already in the safe, perhaps there is some synergy there. What I've heard from other reputable folks echoes what I see here on the Hide concerning their quality. A floating lug sort of offends my sensibilities, but there's really no question that they work and they can shoot lights out.
 
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This thread needs more pics. I will always own a Tikka, period. Love these actions...

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How is everyones barrels before needing cleaning... my 6.5 CTR is a tack driver with factory ammo for about 40-50 shots then accuracy falls off a bit. I do a full cleaning and they tighten back up. Not a big deal but just curious if anybody else seeing the same thing.
 
I sold one a few years ago, and still talk about it being great. Some of us have bad moments. :(
 
I have Sako TRGs. I have a custom rifle and have had several others in the past. A Tikka is just as good. Here is a pick of one of mine.

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Looks like a pva barrel, which contour is that?
Looks good
It is a 22” medium palma PVA barrel. I have a couple PVA barrels and they shoot well with factory ammo just as the factory barrels do.
 
It is a 22” medium palma PVA barrel. I have a couple PVA barrels and they shoot well with factory ammo just as the factory barrels do.
Yeah my pva tikka barrel is a damn laser
It’s a good bit more accurate and consistent than the CTR barrel which wasn’t bad at all
 
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Yeah my pva tikka barrel is a damn laser
It’s a good bit more accurate and consistent than the CTR barrel which wasn’t bad at all
My CTR barrels were/are fantastic as well. Prime ammo and a tikka ctr shoot as good as anything. Hell 140gr American gunner out of a tikka gets it done out to the 900 that I shoot.

The PVA barrels are excellent like you said. Much faster.
 
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I just bit the bullet and bought a new t3x in 22-250. It was about $80 more than what I bought my 243 for, but I had very little hopes of finding a used one in left handed.
 
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Gonna be tough getting those long action cartridges in a short action magazine and through a short action magwell. ?

may work for a stock by switching bottom metal but not a chassis.

magwells are same length. Magazines are same overall outside dimensions and are blocked at the inside rear to cover SA or LA.
 
I have the Tac A1 in 6.5 CM. Swapped the grip for an ergo grip upright grip. Out of the box shooting 1/2MOA. Just add glass and ammo. $1600 on sale

Great rifle, fun and cheap to shoot.
 
The Elay and Tikka Performance springs are $10 with free shipping.....And no difference that I could tell between them and YoDave except price.

This. I have a YoDave spring in a 223 that I bought used and 3 from Mountain Tactical. Can't tell a difference between any of them.
 
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The biggest benefit of the tikka LA and SA sharing a foot print is if you found a good deal on a 30-06 but you wanted to shoot 6.5cm, all you have to do is rebarrel to new cal and change bolt stop and you have a .475 bolt head, short throw action.

This. I built a 22BR off a 270 that I bought for the action and trigger. Put in a High Velocity Hunting adjustable bolt stop and was gtg. Made the rifle a switch barrel this year and added a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel to it. Adjusted the bolt stop from short to medium and it works for 22BR and the 6.5 Creed.

I can swap barrels in five minutes or less, change magazines, and go shoot. I have 3 Tikka rifles, a CTR that started as a 260 and is a 18" 6.5 Creed, my match rifle with 22BR and 6.5 Creed barrels, and a 223 Varmint
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. I have taken factory barrels from one action to another and they headspace perfect.
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This. I built a 22BR off a 270 that I bought for the action and trigger. Put in a High Velocity Hunting adjustable bolt stop and was gtg. Made the rifle a switch barrel this year and added a 6.5 Creedmoor barrel to it. Adjusted the bolt stop from short to medium and it works for 22BR and the 6.5 Creed.

I can swap barrels in five minutes or lees, change magazines, and go shoot. I have 3 Tikka rifles, a CTR that started as a 260 and is a 18" 6.5 Creed, my match rifle with 22BR and 6.5 Creed barrels, and a 223 VarmintView attachment 7272242View attachment 7272243View attachment 7272246View attachment 7272252View attachment 7272253View attachment 7272254. I have taken factory barrels from one action to another and they headspace perfect.View attachment 7272262
Do you just snap your barrels tight with a wrench when you switch back and forth?
 
D

Do you just snap your barrels tight with a wrench when you switch back and forth?

I am going 40 ft/lbs with a torque wrench and a crows foot. Had some mis-communication with my smith and he headspaced both barrels at 100 ft/lbs. I started at 25 and works my way up to 50 with the barrels in a vise and the ejector out of the bolt. Couldn't tell any difference at 35. I can still hold it between my legs at 40, so I stayed there. Still breaking in both barrels, so I will see how repeatable they are when I swap them. They are both shooting lights out so far.

My 18" CTR started as a 260. Put a 23.5" medium palma BUGnut 6.5 Creed Bartlein on it and shot some matches. Last year I picked up a new 20" CTR take off and used it for deer season only for two seasons. Decided to cut the medium palma down to 18" as it was so much faster than the 20" factory barrel. I am 10 fps faster with factory Prime and 60-70 faster with handloads.
 
I am going 40 ft/lbs with a torque wrench and a crows foot. Had some mis-communication with my smith and he headspaced both barrels at 100 ft/lbs. I started at 25 and works my way up to 50 with the barrels in a vise and the ejector out of the bolt. Couldn't tell any difference at 35. I can still hold it between my legs at 40, so I stayed there. Still breaking in both barrels, so I will see how repeatable they are when I swap them. They are both shooting lights out so far.

My 18" CTR started as a 260. Put a 23.5" medium palma BUGnut 6.5 Creed Bartlein on it and shot some matches. Last year I picked up a new 20" CTR take off and used it for deer season only for two seasons. Decided to cut the medium palma down to 18" as it was so much faster than the 20" factory barrel. I am 10 fps faster with factory Prime and 60-70 faster with handloads.

I use 75 ft lbs on mine but aren't switching barrels without a vice. I'm not to big on the switch barrel idea. I would rather have another rifle ready to go than rely on switching back and forth. Hell I don't even switch bipods around. I may try it out on one soon enough and I may change my mind.

My 22" PVA barrel is 150 fps faster with prime ammo than my 20" Tikka. I can still make the same hits with the factory barrels. I just have to add a little more to the elevation turret is all.
 
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I think the draw is a good price point for an action that generally does not require addtional machining for a good prefit/barrel nut setup. They have a reputation for being accurately and consistently made.
 
Good chassis for a Tikka 300WM? KRG lists all SA chassis. I thought someone on here said the Tikka actions are all the same.