Will a stock replacement shift zero?
- Thread starter Smurph_
- Start date
I suppose I should be more clear about what I’m doing. I’m pulling the stock to clean rust on an old rifle and then putting it back on. Will it still change much? I will obviously confirm, but if I don’t have chance to, I don’t want anything unexpected.
will you be able to put it back in and kill a deer at 100y without confirming zero? most likely
will there be a zero change of maybe 1moa? most likely especially since it isnt a mcmillan/manners/chassis
Thank you very much. That was my main question was how dramatic it would be. I would leave it alone, but there was rust under the previous scope mount and I can’t stand to let the rifle have any on it. I have a sneaky suspicion that there is probably a little under the action.
Likely will change zero. Especially if it’s an unneeded or non pillar stock. To get the closest you can go zero be sure the recoil lug is seated against the stock. Attempting to match the current torque on the action bolts will help as well
Reusing the same stock and providing you torque it the same, the answer is maybe...
Since its the H-S stock, the more correct answer is probably not.
I take rifles out of bedding blocks all the time and return them without a noticeable shift.
I just completely took apart a rifle on Tuesday morning to have the barrel threaded.
Reinstalled and re-headspaced the barrel, installed it back into the B&C stock. Reinstalled the scope.
Added a Cherry Bomb brake and a suppressor.
My zero moved UP .6 mil.
Windage was still perfect.
Since its the H-S stock, the more correct answer is probably not.
I take rifles out of bedding blocks all the time and return them without a noticeable shift.
I just completely took apart a rifle on Tuesday morning to have the barrel threaded.
Reinstalled and re-headspaced the barrel, installed it back into the B&C stock. Reinstalled the scope.
Added a Cherry Bomb brake and a suppressor.
My zero moved UP .6 mil.
Windage was still perfect.
Did you remove the scope mount? Same loss of zero factor removing optics/mounts as well
I would say checking zero afterwards is a mandatory step.
I can recall only one time where I've removed a stock (sent off for factory re-paint) and it was perfectly zeroed once re-installed and torqued down.
No animal deserves to get shot in the ass because you were too lazy to confirm zero.
I can recall only one time where I've removed a stock (sent off for factory re-paint) and it was perfectly zeroed once re-installed and torqued down.
No animal deserves to get shot in the ass because you were too lazy to confirm zero.
65in lb front.
45 rear.
You should be
Like this one?
All circa '95 stuff and it all still works.
I guess I’m not familiar with the model he’s using. I see your post above. Is this a pillared HS stock in these guns? If so the shift should be minimal but checked anyways. I guess I assumed it’s a cheap factory plastic stock
Here's an old, really old H-S Fiberthane stock with the basic block.
The block on current stocks (92-ish to today) goes from the wrist all the way to the forward sling stud.
Previous owner bedded it for whatever reason.
I removed some of it around the recoil lug and gave it a sponge bath paint job.
The block on current stocks (92-ish to today) goes from the wrist all the way to the forward sling stud.
Previous owner bedded it for whatever reason.
I removed some of it around the recoil lug and gave it a sponge bath paint job.
Identical to that. I put a one piece mount and Vortex glass on it though. I also painted mine just because.
It has an HS Precision stock and the barreled action is identical to the 700PSS. Its an older model no longer in production.
Sorry I say pillars but bedding block is what I was referring to. As long as he matches up the torque then it should be very close. I’ve removed HS stock’s several times when gun were wet. Retained zero after. But I torque exactly the same each time and ensure the recoil lug is tight against the stock when I put back together
Still should shoot though. I tested mine when I removed the first time
Totally agree.
Also, OP, don't forget your locktite on the rail screw threads.
Modern heavier scopes will loosen them.
Ask me how I know...
Also, OP, don't forget your locktite on the rail screw threads.
Modern heavier scopes will loosen them.
Ask me how I know...
I used blue LT on the rail screws and the ring screws when I mounted the scope.
Torqued to these specs and it doesn’t feel like much. I guess I’m a little heavy handed on other things, but it feels like it should be heavier in the rear?
I've always used 65 in/lbs both front and rear on HS Precision stocks.
I did the same on my old b & c stock with an aluminum bedding block.
Always re confirm zero after removing your stock and scope.
No sense in asking how much it will change. Re confirm your zero and don't trust your rifle to shoot a living thing until you have.
If the torque doesn't feel like it's much, I'll lay a bet that the screws and or the action threads have some type of lubricant on them.
65 in lb is for dry threads.
A 1/4×28 bolt has a nominal torque value of 50-70 in lbs dry.
With any lubricant applied, 40 in lb will do.
65 in lb is only 5 lb ft. Not much and you can do it with a screwdriver.
65 in lb is for dry threads.
A 1/4×28 bolt has a nominal torque value of 50-70 in lbs dry.
With any lubricant applied, 40 in lb will do.
65 in lb is only 5 lb ft. Not much and you can do it with a screwdriver.
Call H-S and ask them what torque value to use.
605-341-3006 MST since they are in Rapid City, SD.
605-341-3006 MST since they are in Rapid City, SD.
Hopefully your cold bore and subsequent shots look like this:
Are you shooting a 7mm-08?
If you hand load, try Staball and a 162 ELDM.
Book says 2820 for a 24" barrel with an A-Max
Are you shooting a 7mm-08?
If you hand load, try Staball and a 162 ELDM.
Book says 2820 for a 24" barrel with an A-Max
