New and trying to figure this out....tikka tac3x A1 in 5.6 creedmoore w/ 20 MOA rail installed. Got a vortex razor today 5-20x50 gen 1, is the optic enough for a mile. Strelok pro says I need 77 MOA.
Rifle Scopes Will Razor 5-20x50 gen 1 do a mile?
- Thread starter Tom Nixon
- Start date
Yes it will 30 MOA or 40 MOA are you drunk.
the 5-20 razor has more elevation then the Gen III and was considered one of the best ELR scopes of its time.
the 5-20 razor has more elevation then the Gen III and was considered one of the best ELR scopes of its time.
I shot my 260 to 1780 yards with a Gen 1 Razor, with the 20moa rail I run out of adjustment at 22.4 mils, had to hold 2 more mils to get to target
So...will I need another 20 MOA? I understand I may have to push my zero out further.
Doesn't the razor get 1 have 125 moa and 36 mil verticle travel? sterl9ck pro is telling me 24.9 mils to hit one mile.
I’ve read it has 125 MOA elevation In the turret. 35 MOA below center in the recital
I don't think you understand what's going on
Hi,
Being crystal clear and blunt so please do not get defensive, lol. Saving you a lot of money and frustration.
It really does not matter what scope or rail you have on your rifle (Referring to OP) as those will not be the limiting factor in your mile desires.
YOU will be the limiting factor as you clearly do not have the understanding of exterior ballistics much less the environmental factors to be successful at 1 mile yet.
Stick with the rifle you have, with the scope you have, with the rail you have and wear your barrel out at 1000 yards and under.
Stop trying to go direct to NASA pilot without ever flying a Cessna.
Sincerely,
Theis
Being crystal clear and blunt so please do not get defensive, lol. Saving you a lot of money and frustration.
It really does not matter what scope or rail you have on your rifle (Referring to OP) as those will not be the limiting factor in your mile desires.
YOU will be the limiting factor as you clearly do not have the understanding of exterior ballistics much less the environmental factors to be successful at 1 mile yet.
Stick with the rifle you have, with the scope you have, with the rail you have and wear your barrel out at 1000 yards and under.
Stop trying to go direct to NASA pilot without ever flying a Cessna.
Sincerely,
Theis
You would be best served with a 30-40 MOA base.
I ran into this same issue with my Gen2 Razor at 26.5 Mil.
With a 20 moa base you are just not using as much of your possible elevation adjustment as you could...
I ended up holding with the reticle and dialing as well.
I got a 40 moa base to aid in getting more usable elevation.
Remember, just because it says 34 Mil does not mean that's what you'll get, many times it's half that unless you get a 20-40moa base.
Hi,
From his other threads he says he has a 20 base and 20 in rings but makes no mention of that in this thread.
Sincerely,
Theis
Some simple math....
If the scope is capable of 125 MOA dialed elevation let's assume 62.5 up and 62.5 down.
Add a 20 MOA rail and it has 82.5 up and 42.5 down.
That gives you the 77 MOA up you need without even considering reticle hold over.
If the scope is capable of 125 MOA dialed elevation let's assume 62.5 up and 62.5 down.
Add a 20 MOA rail and it has 82.5 up and 42.5 down.
That gives you the 77 MOA up you need without even considering reticle hold over.
@Tom Nixon
Please take the above advice. Over the last five to eight months, this forum has seen a parade of noobs come to ask us how to "get to a mile". You're just the latest one in a long line.
Most of you people are making and executing gear buying decisions with literally no understanding of the fundamentals that you need to know to even hit something 7 - 8 hundred yards away (which is pretty fucking far to begin with) with the intention of shooting twice that far.
The questions you're asking clearly show you don't even understand a bullet trajectory. Your assumptions about what you will need to do with your zero are a dead giveaway.
But you want to shoot a mile? Come on.
Take a 12 x 12 plate and 600 yards, how many consecutive shots can you land on it in light winds? In switchy winds?
Based on being zeroed at what distance?
Which bullet? At what muzzle velocity? At which density altitude?
All that shit matters. A lot.
You were not quoting me, but here is my math.
On my calculations 100 meter zero, my current weather conditions 45.1f, 30.24 inhg, 94% humidity, 147gr eld match @2695 fps.
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Hi,
What are you talking about in regards to him quoting your post, lol??
Where do you see that at because it is not showing up on my end.
Also, as GREAT as you SOF guys are at what you do when doing it; does not extrapolate to knowing everything, especially precision rifles to the level some on this forum have.
You yourself asked the forum to "rate your build".
You yourself asked about terminal ballistic differences between 308 and 6.5CM.
There are those on this forum that don't know jack shit about HAHO, HALO, Force Multiplying shit but can line out not only the terminal ballistic difference but the internal and external ballistic differences as if reading this months edition of the Armed Forces Journal.
Sincerely,
Theis
I owe @308pirate an apology. I reacted to what I thought was you quoting me when it was @Tom Nixon you were quoting. I am having a bad morning and was not acting very professional. Please forgive me. Ill edit my posts.
@THEIS thanks for pointing out his quote. I went back and reread it. As for the rate my build, yes as I am on a budget and I didn't have the experience on the specific rifle, so I wanted opinions on the rifle. I have only built a few, everything else was just issued to me.
As far as the 6.5 creedmoor internal ballistics. Yes again I don't have any experience with that round and how it deals with flesh. So I was asking from people that have hunted with it.
Of course I don't know everything and damn sure there are people that can out shoot me in a prs or on the range. I was making a comment about my math when I didn't need to as it was a misunderstanding on my part.
Sometimes we need to be called out when we are being an ass and I appreciate it. Its how we handle it and move forward that matters.
None required, but the offer is appreciated
Lol
Rarely does it work out like that.
Rarely does it work out like that.
Hi,
About as rare as the 16" barrel 308 knocking 1moa targets all day every day at 1 mile, haha
Sincerely,
Theis
In the other post I was running a vortex viper, 30 mm tube, New scope 35mm tube 20 MOA rail is still on the rifle....I’ve not yet purchased a set of rings.
Nope wont work ... .just be a man and use iron sights.
Any optic will go to xxxxx distance. There is so much more to the equation than just the optic. Start easy and work your way out to the mile shots. This will show you quicker than anything what is missing in your equipment. Get the best scope you can and learn it, then go from there. A rail is much cheaper than an optic, and easy to swap.
Any optic will go to xxxxx distance. There is so much more to the equation than just the optic. Start easy and work your way out to the mile shots. This will show you quicker than anything what is missing in your equipment. Get the best scope you can and learn it, then go from there. A rail is much cheaper than an optic, and easy to swap.
If the rifle is already zeroed, just spin your turret and see if it has enough elevation based on your ballistic app. If not, just add a 20 moa rail or just use the holdover. From my experience the scope never zero exactly in the middle of the advertised specs, scope height and load changes zero. On my rifle and scope, it doesn't have enough elevation with additional 20moa rail to reach a mile. Have a Bushnell hdmr, burris xtr and leupold mark 5.
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