That is a GRS bipod and a Sabre tactical rail, just like woogieman said. The black night vision rail comes with the rail and the brass on is sold separately. I needed that set up to be able to use the Nightforce wedge. It is 46 mils to get to 600 yards with this set up and I only had 34 mils up on the scope.
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Have you ever looked at FX No-Limit rings? I use them on some air rifles and a rimfire. I like to shoot out to longer ranges as well. I can set the elevation knob don't low with about 2-3 mils to play with. Then I do a rough zero by adjusting the elevation of the rings.
After I'm close, I adjust the zero with the elevation and windage knobs as usual. With my Anschutz 64 MPR in the MDT chassis, I can get out to 500 yards.
I would only recommend them for air rifles or rimfire not for guns with significant recoil.
FX No Limit 34mm Weaver Scope Rings | Pyramyd AIR
Dial in your accuracy at longer ranges with the help of FX Airguns' No Limit Scope Rings. Learn more at PyramydAir.com.
www.pyramydair.com 
@Drumie is the rail with the wedge an FX part or other maker?
I have been consodering those to use on my set up. You have been pleased with them?Have you ever looked at FX No-Limit rings? I use them on some air rifles and a rimfire. I like to shoot out to longer ranges as well. I can set the elevation knob don't low with about 2-3 mils to play with. Then I do a rough zero by adjusting the elevation of the rings.
After I'm close, I adjust the zero with the elevation and windage knobs as usual. With my Anschutz 64 MPR in the MDT chassis, I can get out to 500 yards.
I would only recommend them for air rifles or rimfire not for guns with significant recoil.
FX No Limit 34mm Weaver Scope Rings | Pyramyd AIR
Dial in your accuracy at longer ranges with the help of FX Airguns' No Limit Scope Rings. Learn more at PyramydAir.com.
Looks like your forend has been drilled/tapped for multiple bridge locations, but I'm not seeing that feature in other Panthera pics. Is that something you did/had done? I'm looking to run one with a thermal clip-on; details on your bridge(s) setup please.
Yes. Before I put thermal scopes on my AirForce air rifles, I used the dovetailed version. They get the scope up high because AirForce is notorious for having the bottle too high and you have to be a contortionist to get a decent cheek-weld.
It's hard to describe in writing but the bases are clamped on with the allen screws. I torque them to about 45 inch-lbs. Those are the very bottom screws on the base as everyone knows. Sorry, I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence but like I said; it's difficult to describe in writing.
Look at the allen screws that the arrows are pointing to in the photo below. Those are the screws that, when tight, keep the rings from moving up and down. When loose, they allow you to adjust the elevation of the entire scope, instead of the reticle.
When you attach the base to the rifle, keep those screws loose enough to permit the mounting of the scope.
After you have tightened the base (bottom) screws, put the scope in the rings. Note this is my method and others may choose to do it differently. When placing the scope in the rings get a good idea of how far forward you want it mounted for proper eye relief but keep all of the screws loose to permit movement and prevent any binding on the scope tube.
At this point the only screws that should be tight are the base screws.
Before leveling the scope and tightening the ring halves. you will need to tighten the screws that the red arrows are pointing to. Don't worry about an elevation point for now. You will do that at the range. Make sure that they are bottomed out in the assembly. Then torque those screws to about 35 inch pounds.
Now you level the scope and tighten the ring halves down to the specs the scope manufacturer recommends. I use 15 inch pounds.
Now take the rifle to the range. When zeroing I put up a large section of butcher paper on the back stop to see where the projectiles are going. A 2' X 3' section should do.
For me, I adjust the elevation knob so I have 2-3 mils to play with from the bottom. So adjust the elevation so it bottoms out, then bring it back up about 2-3 mils.
Now fire a round or two and see where it is hitting. It should be extremely low. If it's so far off paper, just loosen both those screws indicated by the red arrows. You will feel a lot of vertical movement. It will feel so sloppy that you might think you have junk on your rifle. That's okay.
I take a couple of credit cards and place them, like a feeler gauge, in the gap indicated by the red oval in the photo. Don't worry about the front gap. Remember that you are only trying to raise the point of impact to get a close zero. The back ring assembly is the only one getting raised but remember to loosen front screw also to prevent any binding force on the scope tube.
Leave the credit cards in the gap and push the ring down so it just kisses the credit card feeler gauge. Make sure that the front ring assembly is bottomed out. With the cards in place, alternate tightening the screws and torque to 35 inch pounds.
Shoot a another round or two. If you didn't see any bullet holes with the first rounds, you should see something now. If it's still too low, you might have to use three credit cards as your feeler gauge.
You can also use a real feeler gauge but I mentioned the credit cards as they have always seemed to work for me. IIRC, I don't think I used no more than three credit cards and it got everything close for me to fine tune my zero. I think I may have come up a couple more mils with the elevation know to get the proper POI for elevation purposes.
In the end my elevation knob was around 5 mils from the bottom. That left me a lot of elevation adjustment for holdover at long distances.
If none of that made sense, PM me for a phone number and I'll be glad to talk you through it.
Here's a photo of my AirForce Talon SS, using the FX rings, before I put a Talon Tunes moderator on it and added the Thermal scope. I read a lot of complaints on the forums about the extra effort people go through the add picatinny mounts to the receiver of the AirForce airguns to get the proper height but nobody seems to take my recommendations for the No-Limit rings seriously.
I am using the Eagle Vision adjustable rings. They work the same way as the FX rings. I have my scope bottomed out at my 50 yard zero. That gives me 34 mils of up adjustment. The rail is a Sabre Tactical. It is drilled and tapped for moving the bridge where ever you want. The stock Panthera rail the bridge can only be used in the one location. What is nice about the Sabre rail is it is wider than the stock one. And you can add weights as you want. And you can add another 300cc air bottle to the front and still keep the rail on.
Sorry was away this weekend,
Chris shot the local rim fire match with the FX and other than the COF challenge with a single tank he came in 4th.
I am getting ready to go, they had the Utah Air event this weekend so everyone was busy. But I plan on moving forward this week
Chris shot the local rim fire match with the FX and other than the COF challenge with a single tank he came in 4th.
I am getting ready to go, they had the Utah Air event this weekend so everyone was busy. But I plan on moving forward this week
FX M3 Compact inbound, have high hopes.
They are fun quiet and fun accurate.
Utah Air Guns was awesome to deal with (EdGunsWest, not so much...)
They are fun quiet and fun accurate.
Utah Air Guns was awesome to deal with (EdGunsWest, not so much...)
I have two of each of the FX and the Eaglevision adjustable mounts - and the Eaglevision are a much better mount. Also on the Eaglevision mounts, you can also add an addl bolt on the threaded gap to "lock" the MOA elevation in place. The one drawback of both mounts is they are higher than a typical mount.
A good thing to have for an airgun that shoots pellets though.
Agree on the fact that they are higher than the typical rings. That's not a problem if you have a chassis with an adjustable cheekpiece.
I'm sort of low-tech with some air rifles. So the AirForce air rifles are notorious for not getting a good cheek weld to look through the scope because it's too low with a regular set of rings.
The only fix is to get the dovetail-to-picatinny rail adapters or the FX No-Limit rings. I don't know if Eagle Vision makes the rings for a dovetail rail.
Anyway, the FX rings are perfect for the AirForce platform.
Been mounting scopes and taking scopes in and out of rings since I was a boy....
I use a inch pound Wheeler torque screw driver nowadays.
I've had both the FX no limits rings and the Eagle vision rings. Both failed.
The FX rings slipped down over a few months time period, but I eventually discovered what the heck was going on. I had the bolts tightened down more than I thought they should be on 2nd time around using them but they still slipped anyway. Infuriated I used some sandpaper to bridge the gap between the mating surfaces which allowed proper tension on the mating surfaces as well as gave a rough surface to tension against which solved the problem.
Also had a number of problems with the 1st Gen FX Impact that those rings were on which made deducing the various separate problems quite a test in patience, a test which I lost, LOL. I was tempted to bash that thing against a tree a few times!
The Eagle vision rings were overly high for me, so high that I tried to use them on my AR-15 which has a Magpul PRS and with the cheek rest all the way up it wasn't high enough to properly look down the scope. Then one of the bolts broke off in the threads when I went to take them off. The bolts were way way too brittle and I could tell it by how they sounded when tightened up. In addition we could not get the threaded portion of the bolt out no matter what we tried. I had them medium tight was all. I had the bolts tightened MUCH more on the FX rings and those bolts were fine.
Then I bought Sportsmatch adjustable rings. No complaints at all with them. Everything is as it should be. Well I've never had a problem with many pairs of this brands rings over the years.
I use a inch pound Wheeler torque screw driver nowadays.
I've had both the FX no limits rings and the Eagle vision rings. Both failed.
The FX rings slipped down over a few months time period, but I eventually discovered what the heck was going on. I had the bolts tightened down more than I thought they should be on 2nd time around using them but they still slipped anyway. Infuriated I used some sandpaper to bridge the gap between the mating surfaces which allowed proper tension on the mating surfaces as well as gave a rough surface to tension against which solved the problem.
Also had a number of problems with the 1st Gen FX Impact that those rings were on which made deducing the various separate problems quite a test in patience, a test which I lost, LOL. I was tempted to bash that thing against a tree a few times!
The Eagle vision rings were overly high for me, so high that I tried to use them on my AR-15 which has a Magpul PRS and with the cheek rest all the way up it wasn't high enough to properly look down the scope. Then one of the bolts broke off in the threads when I went to take them off. The bolts were way way too brittle and I could tell it by how they sounded when tightened up. In addition we could not get the threaded portion of the bolt out no matter what we tried. I had them medium tight was all. I had the bolts tightened MUCH more on the FX rings and those bolts were fine.
Then I bought Sportsmatch adjustable rings. No complaints at all with them. Everything is as it should be. Well I've never had a problem with many pairs of this brands rings over the years.
With the Washington DC/State Capital Wacko Packs; I'm perplexed trying to determine whether the air rifle shooters are the leading edge of the future, or the trailing edge of the dying breed.
Same old Politicians vs Rust argument...
I say, send them all to Hell and let the Devil sort 'em out.
Greg
Same old Politicians vs Rust argument...
I say, send them all to Hell and let the Devil sort 'em out.
Greg
I am seriously considering selling 3 of my 6 pcp's to get that one. I hear the 35 cal does almost 1000 fps with over 800 fpe and is a tack driver at 100 yrds! Yep, that's all I want...until the next newest comes out!
@Mike Weldon 800 fpe? I can’t see it. Can you clarify what you mean?
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Foot pounds of energy, I believe: When slug leaves the barrel. I have trouble believing it also, since my 457 cal Texan does around 725 fpe with a longer barrel , both at 4600+/- psi.
Yeah, to get 800 fpe at 1000 fps...you need a 360 grain pellet / slug. They don't make 360 grainers in 35 cal. Even if they did, to get 800 fps you would need to blow so much air it would be a one or two shot wonder per bottle in the Panthera. I say it's a typo.
I think the site I was looking at, which I can't find now, typo'd the fps instead of the fpe. They do make 300+ grain slugs for 357 though and well over 400 grain for 457, I have many boxes of them for my texans which will get those numbers, but I don't think that rifle will load them single shot. I'm going to attach the specs for one of my Texans for ya.
Yeah, if you can shoot the 124gr Nielson's at 1000+, you should get over 300 ft lbs - which is darn good power for an airgun.
They can but it is purpose built to be a slug gun, if you are looking for double duty another model may be a better choice. I am by no means an expert if I were you I would reach out to Chris at Bullet Central
The Panthera is a 100% designed rifle to shoot slugs. You can shoot pellets in it. If you want to shoot pellets primarily I would look at the Crown or the Impact. The crown can be set inside a MPA Air Chassis and is a phenomenal setup.
That is the venting hole for the hammer and valve. When the hammer is released towards the valve it will create a high pressure in front on it so during a shot you will feel so air coming out there. But if there is a continuous flow of air then you have a leak
Slightly different barrel for slugs than pellets? My primary use for the gun is to practice positional shooting in the backyard at ~25yds. Accuracy in a platform that feel like a precision rifle ergonomically is a must. Power not real important.
Not necessarily opposed to a slug gun but I would assume they are both more expensive to shoot and less shots per tank based on the projectiles being heavier. Would be a cool feature to be able to turn it up when I’m at the deer camp and shoot further, but that would be minimal utilization compared to the backyard, and I wouldn’t be willing to give up much accuracy to get it.
You could purchase a pellet liner i'm sure they are available from Utah Air Guns. I would recommend you giving those guys a call and discussing whet you are wanting to do. They will not steer you in the wrong direction. I believe the Crown would be a better option for what you are wanting to do.
FX Crown MKII Airgun | Utah Airguns
FX Crown | The classic-looking rifle that blends traditional beauty with modern technology. The FX Crown is now in stock at Utah Airguns.
utahairguns.com For 25 yards really any rifle will work. Unless you really want to go for a $2k rifle. You can de-tune the rifle and it will potentially shoot fine. Just because it has a slug barrel doesn't mean it won't shoot slugs, and vise versa.
what is the advantage of those units over something like the UK made Hill that’s $600? Speed?
@tsu45 The difference between an Alkin and a Hill compressor? They're worlds apart. The Alkin is a workhorse. It can be used at shooting clubs, fire stations, or at home. It's built to work for longer periods. I believe that Alkins fill SCBA tanks faster and with less stress on the motor. I don't think the Hill compressors are suited to fill SCBA tanks. I'm no expert, I'd encourage you to but look into the voltage, RPMs, and CFMs and compare them between the units. That should paint a better picture. My Alkin can top off a 74 cubic feet SCBA tank in about 6 minutes from 2500 psi to around 4300 psi. It doesn't strain or run hot in the process at all.
Check out the specs for yourself.
Alkin Mariner W31 https://www.alkinus.com/w31-mariner
Hill EC300 https://www.airriflepump.com/acatalog/EC-3000-evo-Electric-Air-Compressor-Pump-3000-001.html#SID=15
Hill EC300 User Manual https://www.airriflepump.com/acatalog/EC3000_evo_user_manual_English_rev1.pdf
Good info, but it looks like for the casual shooter that will only be using the rifle now and then, the Hill unit would quite fill the need.
So sounds like the others are commercial units. If I’m just going to fill the gun’s onboard tank at the house every few days, is it good enough given the 7x cost difference? Don’t see myself needing to fill scuba tanks, let alone quickly or multiple back to back.
What’s common on the moisture control side for the full setups?
One of the best decisions was getting a PCP over the last 2 years. With ammo prices, hard to find bullets and powder it's been a total blast shooting my PCP. Plus all my kids love it, I get to walk outside in the backyard and go to town. Made my own bullet trap with a plastic bin with a lid, filled with rubber mulch
@lash From what I've read the Hill is suitable for casual airgun owners to be used to fill their guns directly. I run through a lot of air so my needs differ. A compressor capable of filling SCBA tanks (without stressing internal parts or breaking down) was desirable. I shoot airguns like a lot of guys on this site shoot powder burners.
@tsu45 I'd say an Alkin W31 is a step down from a proper commercial unit (those things can be huge and very expensive units), but it can handle a heavy duty cycle filling multiple SCBA bottles without issue. My fill station is not set up to fill PCP ariguns directly from the Alkin compressor. I fill the SCBA tank, then fill the airguns from the SCBA tank. The Alkin's moisture control consists of a small amount of activated charcoal, desiccant beads, and some sort of thick wool-like fibrous discs (separating the different media) situated within the the water separator tower. It does a great job of keeping moisture out. IO have not felt or seen any moisture exhausted from the water separator tower. The moister is exhausted from the 1st and 2nd stage valves when you purge them. I do this by briefly opening both valves for a few seconds around the 5 minute mark when filling. There is the option to purchase compressors with an auto purge function, but I haven't used one with that feature. I change the filter media annually (unless I put an exponential amount of hours on my unit than I have been within a year's time). Last year I think I logged about 3.5 hours on my compressor. It's built to run hundreds of hours and should only require regular (periodic) maintenance after certain time or usage intervals as outlined in the Alkin W31 owner's manual.
Before approx 4 years ago I would take my 3000 psi and 4300 psi tanks down to the dive shop to be filled. This worked out well at the time because my guns were 30 fpe or less so not very powerful. If I wasn't shooting a whole lot these would last half a year. It was only $5 for the small tank and $7 for the big tank so not worth it to buy a compressor.
Then I started getting into more powerful pcp's. There is a big difference in air consumption once that threshold is crossed. I was having to go to the dive shop every 2-3 weeks and I wouldn't say I shot that much either.
The writing was on the wall....So up to this moment I have experience with three compressors meant to fill pcp's.
One was $400-ish, maybe the 1st Gen Nomad, that hooked up to the 12v battery posts in a vehicle. I kinda liked it because it would fill the reservoir on a gun in few minutes though it wasn't meant to fill even a medium sized scuba tank. The problem was there was no moisture filter. My daughter was sponsored with it, the gun, and well everything. She gave it back once the plandemic hit so we only used it for 6 months so maybe 40-50 fills.
Would I rather have this than a hand pump, a million times YES?!
Another is a walmart rebranded Yong Heng which was sub $400 including extended warranty. These are more powerful than the Nomad, very loud, and what happens is if you have a leak somewhere you can't hear it. We learned after a while that if it was taking longer to fill that we'd have to turn it off and find the leak then start all over because all the air has to be drained out of it to restart it. It's still ticking after 3 years but my bud has it cooled with a beverage cooler system which will extend the life before a rebuild is needed because it's heat that kills these types of compressors the quickest.
I took the plunge on a Coltri MCH6 a few years ago. It's been a wonderful addition to my airgun shooting. Fills my large 4500 psi tank from 3400 psi to 4500 psi in 6-7 minutes. For me having this as a gas compressor makes it more convenient which is half the reason I bought it and I ever need to take it with me I have that option. It was on sale for $2500 back then.
Then I started getting into more powerful pcp's. There is a big difference in air consumption once that threshold is crossed. I was having to go to the dive shop every 2-3 weeks and I wouldn't say I shot that much either.
The writing was on the wall....So up to this moment I have experience with three compressors meant to fill pcp's.
One was $400-ish, maybe the 1st Gen Nomad, that hooked up to the 12v battery posts in a vehicle. I kinda liked it because it would fill the reservoir on a gun in few minutes though it wasn't meant to fill even a medium sized scuba tank. The problem was there was no moisture filter. My daughter was sponsored with it, the gun, and well everything. She gave it back once the plandemic hit so we only used it for 6 months so maybe 40-50 fills.
Would I rather have this than a hand pump, a million times YES?!
Another is a walmart rebranded Yong Heng which was sub $400 including extended warranty. These are more powerful than the Nomad, very loud, and what happens is if you have a leak somewhere you can't hear it. We learned after a while that if it was taking longer to fill that we'd have to turn it off and find the leak then start all over because all the air has to be drained out of it to restart it. It's still ticking after 3 years but my bud has it cooled with a beverage cooler system which will extend the life before a rebuild is needed because it's heat that kills these types of compressors the quickest.
I took the plunge on a Coltri MCH6 a few years ago. It's been a wonderful addition to my airgun shooting. Fills my large 4500 psi tank from 3400 psi to 4500 psi in 6-7 minutes. For me having this as a gas compressor makes it more convenient which is half the reason I bought it and I ever need to take it with me I have that option. It was on sale for $2500 back then.
Do any of yall just get large 6k psi dry nitrogen tanks from Airgas or another supplier? They are a few hundred bucks IIRC but then refills are fairly economical and a 5ft tall 6k tank lasts a long time filling smaller tanks to 4500 for PCP charging last I looked into it.
I certainly didn’t mean to hijack or derail this Panthera thread. I created a thread for high pressure air compressors and fill sources in the link below if anyone wishes to discuss the topics in further detail.
www.snipershide.com
Questions Concerning HIgh Pressure Air (HPA) Compressors and Other Fill Sources for PCP Airguns
I think it’s time for a thread dedicated to high pressure air (HPA) compressors. So we aren’t hijacking other threads, how about posing questions about compressors, SCBA tanks, hand pumps, booster pumps, portable compressors here?
www.snipershide.com I am interested but he didn’t say how many shots per fill.
Wonder how or if FX controls sound? Can't tell if the Barrel will accept after market Moderators without an adapter.
On the FX Panthera, please provide the caliber and projectile (slug/pellet). Your 100-yard accuracy is amazing! Is it a 700mm barrel? On mine (600mm, .25 caliber) I have yet to find consistency with slugs. I have read tuning guides and do have an FX pocket chronograph. I have good success with pellets but not with slugs. Any suggestions?
They call them moderators in air gun jargon but are built the same as silencers. Depending on the manufacturer the quality is varied. DonnyFL makes great ones, the "emporer" model has both "baffles" and stainless mesh that can secure your own sound deadening materials. As is it takes my 457 cal airforce Texan from a loud bang/crack down to about the same as a 22 short. I don't have material installed so it probably would be a lot less if I did. Nice thing is an airgun will not burn up the material if added. Also; Donny has been through the Federal Court system already and won, so no worries about legally owning one or six, they are marked "airgun only".
As for the airforce bottle/cheek weld, there is an adaptor available that attaches where the bottle does, drops 45°, then horizontally to attach the bottle. You gain a couple inches lower for cheek weld. I forget the manufacturer but Piramyd Air sells them.
I'm thinking of an occasional NRL22 match with the Panthera - any thoughts on the 600mm vs the 700mm?
I saw that. TalonTunes sells the adapter. However, I think the simpler approach would be to use the FX No-Limit rings. The height is perfect with those rings.
Yes I'm sure the no limit rings are the way to go. I am good with just tall rings but will probably get no limit sooner or later. I've already emptied my savings multiple times with my rifles and supported equipment! I need to have a garage sale with all of the "almost" what I really wanted or needed stuff sitting in my gun room.
I hear ya. I have a hobby that involves buying really expensive guns then selling them a ridiculously cheap prices
