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Zero range for a 338?

mstennes

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 11, 2009
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North Central Washington
I just picked up a TRG 42 in 338, running a US Optics SN3 5.5x25, my first sight in is at 200 yards, but now I'm wondering if I should zero it 100 or further out than that? This is my first 338 so im in a uncharted area for me. Thoughts? Thanks!
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

Zero everything at 100, then you can dial up from there. With that scope and the right base it should be no issue going from 100 to 1500 yards.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jasonk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Zero everything at 100, then you can dial up from there. With that scope and the right base it should be no issue going from 100 to 1500 yards. </div></div>
I'm running a Badger base as it had 20moa vs Sakos 10moa with US Optics rings which at the moment don't seem to hold the scope well with BH ammo but hold fine with LaPua? Still working on that issue.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

I have the same rifle and I zero at 100 with about 23-25 minutes up to get to 1000yds. I am shooting SMK 250's at 93 grains of H1000 and Lapua brass. I don't remember the intermediate ranges but 200yds will be about 1.25moa above the
100 yd mark.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

The only thing that does not get zeroed at 100 yds are some of my hunting rifles with holdover reticles, but for the most part, they all are set on 100yds, regardless of if they are a smaller caliber or a big boomer.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mstennes</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just picked up a TRG 42 in 338, running a US Optics SN3 5.5x25, my first sight in is at 200 yards, but now I'm wondering if I should zero it 100 or further out than that? This is my first 338 so im in a uncharted area for me. Thoughts? Thanks!</div></div>

Zero it for the shortest range you will either need a point blank zero or a precision zero.

Meaning if you are shooting comps where you need to have a 100 yard zero then zero it at 100. If your comps typically don't go below 300, then 300 it is. With the knowledge of where the 'hold-unders' are. I personally shoot @ 100 and 200 using hold-unders no matter what. It's the same as zeroing @100 you're just using marks above the crosshair instead of the crosshair.

This kind of goes along the line of using a 'point blank' zero out to 300 yds/m.

As noted the 'point-blank' zero is so that no matter what range you shoot within the 'point-blank' range you will hit the kill zone. For instance, if you have a 10" kill zone then the bullet will never rise or fall outside that kill zone if you hold the crosshairs dead center on it. This is pretty much the philosophy of the M16/AR-15 battle zero. Point and shoot. Depending on what bullets you use and how fast you push them, your .338 can have a very long point blank range. If you go big bullets and push them moderately, you may have the same point blank range as a .308. Just over 300 yds/m. But, you'll benefit from the long range trajectory.

FWIW, the 100 yd. zero is base for which a lot of teaching comes from. It's perfectly acceptable to use that and move up (and down) as you range out farther (and back). A quick dial of your scope all the way down and you know you're back at 100 and can go up from there quickly. It's pretty much a set standard by which you can always find your elevation quickly and then dial back up to where you need to be, quickly. Having a longer zero is the same principle, but all the numbers change. Either way, it's based on you KNOWING your ballistics.

I can't say when exactly it got standardized like that but one standard for as many precision shooters in the Armed forces who apply precision shooting isn't a bad thing. Carlos Hathcock had his men zeroed at 700. After he left, his successor had them at 500. He returned them to 700 when he resumed control of the sniper platoon. Army snipers typically zeroed @ 300 during the Viet Nam war.
When I was in, <span style="text-decoration: line-through">we</span> our guys used the Art II scopes on an M21, which were designed to zero @ 200. Being as they were only 2" high @ 100 it didn't make a lot of difference. Not to mention they pretty much had a MAXIMIM effective range of 800m. Anything past that and you could pick for 20 shots and not hit anything that you would hit with a more accurate rifle.
The point is, when the Army finally put a sniper school together, based on the Marine Corps curriculum, someone decided everyone should shoot the same. A wise idea, IMO. You personally, or your unit, can vary as needed, as long as you know the ballistics.

Your rifle, has a much better accuracy factor than those M21's did by a long ways. Same with the M24's and M40's of today shooting 7.62 Match. For personal shooting I see no need to limit the zero to 100 yds. Unless of course you see a need for it.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

Zero to 100 yards, that's what I did with my 338 LM. Also note that 20MOA base won't get you the full distance that round and optic is capable of. Only matters if you actually plan on shooting that far, but worth being aware.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

I always zero all my rifles at 100 yards and I can dial or hold when needed. It just makes it easier to remember everything at 100 yards and dial for me.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

I have a .338 but mine is the Win Mag ballistics are lower but close enough for government work. I have mine zeroed at a 100 but my scope is capable of dialing 1750 mounted flat with a 20 MOA base if I am right should be able to dial out to 1950 almost 2000 yds not good for hunting but for punching a hole in paper it will work just need to hold your mouth right and fingers crossed. I have shot to 1000 yds. useing a 300 gr. Lapua bullet it's fantastic if you never have done it.
 
Re: Zero range for a 338?

As several have stated, I am in agreement. I zeroed at 100 with mine and with a 20 MOA Badger base and 8.5x25 MK4, it'll get me out to 1400 running a 250 SMK.