Ok S&B wizards, I own a 5-25 with the H2MCR but am considering replacing it.

Have my eye on either the same scope or 3-20 US with the GR2ID (in case this scope lands on my 204 someday, the TR2ID doesn’t fit my varmint shooting 204-blowing-in-the-wind needs).

My question to you is at 20x, give me your feels on both. Eyebox, sharpness, etc. 20x is where I shoot a LOT at due to tiny targets. Way smaller than a typical CF comp steel plate and 20x magnification is critical. For me, anyway.

Above 20x mirage is often a factor, so 20x is the sweet spot. And on the gun I’m thinking about, a S&B is a perfect look.

I do know a scope tends to perform the best in the middle mags, or at least not in the extremes of its mag range. The 5-25 does darken rather significantly between 20x and 25x, and that’s another consideration if that happens to the 3-20 at 20x.

So I can guess at what the crowd will say, but I’d like to hear from those who have looked through both models.

I'm interested in building a 7mm SS. I already have a great stock for the build but would like some feedback. I'm disappointed ARC discontinued the Mausingfield and am not interested in having to modify either the stock or the action for their CDP action. I've already talked with ARC about it.

Here's the specs I'm looking for:
CRF
Left hand
Short action

I know Bighorn makes one, is there a better option I can look/should look into?

So my father passed away last week. Currently it is just my sister and I left to deal with everything. I know about needing copies of death certificates and those types of things.

I guess I have questions concerning social security and IRS type issues. the SS website says the funeral home contacts them about the death. I also have heard you have to send back the last payment. So the question I have is does anyone know how they send payments? Based on his bank statements the last payment was received 9/30, and basically always the direct deposit takes place at the end of the month. Would that be considered payment for September? Or is that payment for October?

We could not find a will or know anything about a will. I know you have to process a tax return for this year with the IRS in '25. What I was not able to find is if there is anything special that needs to be done for them. The IRS website is a joke for that info. Nothing about relatives filing, or anything other that estate executor or similar such titles. The one piece of advice the CFO at my work told me is if he does owe money, do not pay it from my own account. The issue is we locked his bank account but my sister was listed as the beneficiary. I assume she would be able to be in control once that happens and make sure the money is there if needed to pay any tax and send money back to SS.

Sorry if this post seems a bit rambling, but this is all new to me. There isn't exactly a guide book out there for what and how to do all of these things. Thankfully he did not have much and did not own a home. His only income was SS and retirement. His record keeping was nonexistent so I feel like I am just bumping along until I figure something out. We removed every ounce of paperwork from his apartment and found his phone and wallet. He was not tech savvy despite being an incredibly good prototype machinist for Hughes Aircraft/Raytheon for a long time. No digital accounts, apps, email, passwords, etc. Finding everything has been extremely difficult to say the least.

My sister is still active Navy and has two young kids on her own due to a recent divorce from a deadbeat dad. I am just trying to remove any extra burden from her for the things were she was not listed as the beneficiary, or at least not sure if she is the one listed yet. This is turning into a total shit show and I just don't really have anyone else to ask but this very public forum. None of my friends have lost their parents and had to deal with this. The rest of my family is essentially non existent or has no experience in this space. I'm at a total loss on some of this trying to figure it out and prevent anyone from coming after myself or my sister for any debts or money we may not know about. So any advice would be greatly appreciated.

300 Norma - Defiant Action with 120 rounds in an MPA Chassis, Bix and Andy Trigger, and LaRue Tactical Harris Bipod. The work was done by Joe Walls. I'll also include 200 pieces of new brass for it.

$1700 OBO Shipped to your FFL for $50 insured. I can do face-to-face for GA residents near Ft Benning. Priced to move.

6 Dasher with a little under 450 rounds, MPA Chassis, Bix and Andy Trigger, and Atlas Bipod. A new prefit barrel is included. The work was done by Joe Walls. I have a twin of this one that I'll also be listing along with a 300 Normal also from Joe Walls. I can swap the bipod for a new LaRue Tactical Harris bipod at no charge.

$1700 OBO Shipped to your FFL for $50 insured. I can do face-to-face for GA residents near Ft Benning. Priced to move.

1x Shmedium in black waxed canvas-SOLD: Lightning8
1x 1+1 relatively new from JC steel- SOLD: NiteQwill
Will post pics later.

Near mint condition.
$600

G'day;

I was just given some ammunition that is apparently "XM1200".

Deets here; https://govtribe.com/opportunity/fe...nity/6-dot-5mm-creedmoor-xm1200-w15qkn20x0962

Confirmed all the specs, but the cartridge case is a Lapua Large Rifle Primer (LRP) 6.5 Creedmoor Case.

This doesn't seem likely, but i'm happy to be wrong - is XM1200 really using Lapua Cases?

Cheers

Carso

When I mounted an RDS at 12 o'clock on my SPRecce my first instinct was to zero it at 50 yards the same as my other red dots but I ran the math and realized that probably wasn't ideal for what I wanted. 0-50 yards things looked fine but after that the increased height over bore meant I'd be holding pretty low for 100-200 yard targets, which could be small pepper poppers or gongs. Below is 50 yd zero with 4.6" HOB, red being the hold point and the green circle being the approximate impact area.


Running the numbers for a 25 and 36 yard zero revealed they were pretty horrendous options:



I ended up settling on a 100 yard zero which coincidentally works out close to the same holds as a 50 yard zero that I would typically use with offset sights and lower 1/3 RDS mounts. Below are my holds using the 100 yard zero with a 4.6" HOB, zeroed with pretty standard 55gr ball, however under 200 yards it works pretty much the same with IMI 77 Razor Core.



Like most things it's going to come down to how you intend to use the RDS, if one doesn't perceive ever having the need to engage anything farther than the zero distance then go with God. I view the RDS as an alternate sighting system so I want it to be capable basically from 0-300 yards and why I went the way I did.

What distance are others zeroing their piggy back red dot?

Before covid ruined everything, I was excited about shooting and hunting, so I bought a lot of junk. I got myself a Tikka T3x in 6.5 Creedmoor.

I thought I would hunt deer with it, which has never happened. I am trying to get back on track and do whatever has to be done in order to get some kind of hunting done, whether it's deer, pigs, or bears. I'll pay a guide. I don't care.

When I got this thing, I was all excited about mrad tactical reticles, because II had just learned to use one. I decided I wanted one for the rifle. I didn't want excessive minimum magnification, because I wanted a reasonably large field of view at the low end. I didn't think I needed total high-end snob glass. At the time, my decision was to get an Athlon ARES BTR GEN2 HD 2.5-15×50 APRS5 FFP IR MIL, which, obviously, goes from 2.5x to 15x.

Is this a crazy scope to use for hunting? It's on the bulky side. My wild guess is that I'll never shoot at any animal over 200 yards away.

Bought this off a hide member in March 24. Didn’t use it like I thought I would, selling to fund a pair of LRF binos. Only interested in Fury 5000 AB or $1250 $1200
Comes with everything but the original box.

I'm working on a method for removing carbon rings and am in the midst of writing a patent on it. I'd like to do more extensive testing and am looking for old barrels with carbon rings in them? I'd be looking for someone to send me a barrel, I'd do my process on the barrel and send it back - I'll reimburse for shipping. The process is non-abrasive and non-damaging, but I'd still prefer to do it on old barrels. I've successfully tested it on two of my current barrels that had the beginnings of rings forming, but I'd really like to test it on one that's got a whopper of one in it.

Please PM me if able to help.

FS 1976 Colt Python 6” barrel, blued finish. Near perfect condition except some wear on the turn ring. No holster wear either. This gun comes with the original box and papers. This is NOT a second hand box. Box has matching serial numbers and papers. Asking $3,000 OBO.

A pro-Trump resident has been projecting an image showing his support for President Trump from his property onto a municipal water tower.
Credit: Boston 25 News
Officials in a small Massachusetts town are in an uproar over a creative pro-Trump fan displaying his support for the 45th President.
As Fox News reported, a man living in Hanson, Massachusetts, has been ordered to stop projecting an epic “Trump 2024” sign from his residence onto the town’s municipal water tower. If he refuses to abide, he will face daily fines.
Hanson Town Administrator Lisa Green released a statement after becoming aware the resident’s creative display.
She claimed the resident was “misleading” the public into believing the town of Hanson condones his actions and supports Trump.
“On Friday, Oct. 11, the Town of Hanson became aware that a resident was projecting the image of a political sign from their property onto the Town of Hanson municipal water tower at 228 High St. This misleads the public into believing that this activity is sanctioned by or condoned by the Town,” Green wrote.
Fox News also notes that Hanson town officials are attempting to counter the visibility of the “Trump 2024” logo by installing a floodlight. However, as of Friday evening, it was still visible to the public.
They are also preparing a Cease and Desist order for the resident and will impose a $100 per day fine until he stops displaying the sign.
“This individual’s actions have the potential to cost a significant amount of taxpayer dollars, including attorney fees, overtime to pay Highway Department workers to turn the spotlight on and off each day, and the potential for having to rent or purchase stronger lighting equipment,” Green stated.
At this point, there is no sign of the resident intending to yield to the officials’ threats. Should he bravely stand his ground, he could find himself in debt from the town’s tyrannical actions.

So as the title suggests, I need a compact scope and the only one I've ever owned are several NF 4-16x42's, which is not one of the scopes I will be considering due to the minimum magnification of 20X. Above all else the most important part of this decision is the GLASS.

Scopes on the short list are:

ZCO 4-20
Kahles 328i
Schmidt and Bender 5-20 Ultra Short

I have a ZCO 5-27, have had 4 Schmidt and Bender's (4-16's and 5-25's) and a Kahles 6-24, so I know the quality of the manufacturers and what they bring to the table, however since the quality of the glass is far more important to me then other features, I need to ask from people that have owned them or done side by side comparisons.

Did I mention the glass is important? Other than that, eyebox and how easy it is to get behind is at the top of the list as well. All other features are a moot point as the scopes will do what I need them to.

The basement dwellers are gonna finance one helluva bank account for her

I’m sure this has been asked a million times but I’m going at the question from a different angle. I just competed in my first prs match this weekend and it was a blast and now I got the itch for a specific use rifle. The rifle I used is my main hunting rifle which is a 6.5prc tikka chopped to 22”, silencerco scythe, 3-12 lrhs , and a stockys vg stock. I shot middle of the pack which I was fairly proud of have never done anything like this but I could definitely tell the recoil was not helping me.
I also don’t want to roast the barrel out of my hunting rifle.

Seems like the default recommendation most make is to get a 6.5 creedmoor when beginning PRS and I’ve got a tikka 24” ctr sitting in my shopping cart ready to check out. My question is will 6.5 creedmoor be enough of a step down in recoil to justify a whole other rifle or should I just got full out and have a 6 dasher or gt spun up?

I should also add I’m in northwestern Montana so the rifle most likely will have to fight decent amount of wind and the shoot I went to this weekend ranged for 200yds to 1430yds.

Other than Burris, Leupold, and Vortex … I didn’t even know of the manufacturers such as Khales, Nightforce (saw the NF logo in firearms review videos and thought it’s simply NF scopes), and Zeiss until I stumbled upon SH.

Trying to learn more about quality scopes. Assuming that there are more top notch scope manufacturers (forgive my lack of knowledge). Could you please provide me with some options to look into?

850 for both.
Only fits the skeetir-x.
skeetir-x not included

mtm 3x magnifier and custom adapter
Larue lt811 fixed mount





has a set nylon tip set screw to retain the magnifier



inside has a soft grip tape to protect the skeet objective and give a friction fit

WTS - Bushnell XRS II 4.5-30 G3. Used for matches and has some rash mark on wind and parallax knobs. Sold

Reloading novice here - I've got an RCBS Matchermaster FL die set that I've been using for a while but never explicitly tested anything with seating depth. This is for a 6.4 CM Tikka that was recently rebarreled with a Proof Match Contour 26" steel, machined from a blank by a gunsmith. I've picked up the Hornady OAL tool and Hornady bullet comparator set, and I'm going through the process of trying to find the lands on my setup using the same 140gr ELDMs I've been loading for this rifle for a while (with mediocre results due to my inexperience). The way I initially set up my seating die was just to match the COAL of the factory 140 ELDMs I shoot regularly. However, consistenly I find that with the OAL gauge I'm seeing a much shorter length for the lands vs the length I already load my reloads to (or to what box ammo is at).

In the comparator, I'm seeing this:

• OAL Gauge: 2.1075
• Reloaded 140gr ELDM seated with "4.30" on the die mic: 2.1915
• Factory 140 gr ELDM: Also 2.1915
• Dummy round loaded with 140 ELDM, die at "3.45": 2.1040

I've checked the OAL measurement several times and even tried pushing "hard" on it to see if it wasn't actually into the lands, but I get the same measurement plus or minus maybe 1 thou. The difference is COAL is very obvious between box ammo vs what is supposedly "at the lands".

In the picture, the top is the OAL gauge's modified case at the lands, supposedly, and the others are as labeled. The last picture shows more clearly that there's scuffing on the ogive for basically all of them, but especially the longer ones. Those that measured 2.1915 are very difficult to cycle, and oddly that includes the factory/box ammo. I tried a couple, and one I had to smack the bolt back to get it out, while the other factory round cycled more or less normal. I do recall from a recent match shooting box ammo that I had some difficult cycling at times, but I thought at the time it was maybe heat-related or not to do with my ammo at least. Note also that when I loaded a dummy at the lands measurement, it cycled with no resistance.

1. Why would factory ammo be so tight in this rebarrel? Is that an indication that my gunsmith spun the barrel incorrectly, or maybe they were to tight on the chamber? Should that be considered defective?
2. Am I missing anything in my process measuring the lands, or would it be logical to find the lands and then just back off .020-.060?
3. Is it even safe to send something like the shorter rounds pictured? How can I tell the minimum overall length that's safe?

Used barrels for sale. These barrels are still accurate enough to shoot targets with.

No problem shooting these barrels out to 900 yards. Final sale, the chambers and bores look ok, I do not have a borescope. Priced accordingly.

Please let me know if you have any questions

PayPal F&F
Venmo

Price includes shipping to lower 48 states only.

Thanks for looking



Barrel #1

• Lone Peak Fuzion
• 26” Bartlein 5R - 6mm BR
• Chambered by GA Precision
• 1:7.5 twist - 1.25” straight contour
• 5/8x24 muzzle thread
• Approximately 2k rounds
• Still shooting AVG 1/2 MOA at 100 yards
• 107 SMK - Alpha Brass - Varget
• MV - 2850 fps

FOR SALE as is ———— SOLD





Barrel #2

• Impact 737R
• 26” Hawk Hill - 6mm Creedmoor
• Chambered by L3 Rifles
• 1:7.5 twist - Heavy Palma contour
• 5/8x24 muzzle thread
• Approximately 1200 rounds
• Still shooting AVG 1/2 MOA at 100 yards
• 107 SMK - Alpha brass - H4350
• MV - 2950 fps

FOR SALE as is ————- SOLD