I have 2500 cci large rifle and 1000 winchester large rifle.
Will be shipped by FFL.


Selling as one lot

Every couple of years we get a couple of shelves full of various prefits that come from cancellations, changes, etc that need to go somewhere other than take up space in the shop. It's now that time and here's the list link to buy some killer prefits (and one barreled action) at an unbelievable discount.

The last two times we've done this we got a huge number of emails saying "I missed ______ can you make me another one for the same price" and "Can you hold _____ for me until such and such date".

That's not the point of this sale, so without trying to be crass about it, we are not going to reply to those requests.
Here's a partial list of what's up, the complete list is on the website link below. As you can see we've sorted and inventoried these very carefully to make sure all the details are correct.

This is a used scope in good shape I see no blemishes on it, MIL C the rings are nightforce 1.375, I have the box, 1650$ shipped CONUS.

Yesterday evening we watched these start at the Montana / Idaho border and go through N Idaho to the Washington border. This has been a terrible year for growing. Home gardens along with big farms have had a really poor turnout. All the sunflowers I see are facing away from the sun. { have photos} The Governor should grab his balls and have the NG shoot these enemy aircraft down. I can't believe there are so many retards that try to explain these away.

Flame away, I don't know as much as you guys so I'm sure there is a reason.

But if there is a 6.5 PRC which is a Creedmoor magnum basically. Where is the 308 PRC? Or are we basically talking 30-06 at that point? Educate me!

I'll keep this a little short and maybe add to it later since family and kids take up 99.99% of my time

Edit: big update at this post: https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...vs-without-warning-chad.7229804/post-11745665

Edit 2: follow up after 3 days of shooting. https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...vs-without-warning-chad.7229804/post-11747490

For background, I've owned by Maverick from nearly the point it was released. I've used it enough through several PRS seasons that I'm quite familiar with it. I've sent it back to Area419 for several cleanings and a separated baffle stack (that occured during a 2 day match). They have always taken care of it, no issues. It is an EXCELLENT performing suppressor for its intended use. I run it in the shortest configuration. It has certainly helped with the longevity of my shooting sessions when doing PRS specific repetitions.

I recently picked up the Magnus RR-K and Without Warning CHAD (to shoot in suppressor unfriendly states and countries).

After putting a few rounds through all 3, I'll share my initial thoughts:

The Magnus RR-K certainly has a more suppressor feel vs the Maverick. The Maverick, to me, feels more like a brake with the signature 'snap' when you shoot it. It rarely leaves the target by much and remains easy to drive. I've always appreciated that I don't have a headache after 2 days of constant shooting or with heavy training regiments. When comparing the two suppressors, you can notice the opening of the last aperture on the Magnus RR-K is the same as the bore diameter and the Maverick is a little larger. This was at quick glance. So, I think this may slightly drive how they perform differently.

The Magnus RR-K has a slight push with a small off-target drive. Now, this could simply be something that I need to train better for or that I simply haven't shot the suppressor enough to anticipate and understand the feel of it. It is something I will be working on. It is not loud when compared to the Maverick (outside the shooter's perspective). In that sense, it is definitely quieter IMHO. From the shooter's perspective, I liked the overall sound and tone of the Magnus RR-K vs the Maverick.

The CHAD is quite a brake. I've used the Sidewinder, Hellfire Match, APA, and ACE in the past. I have mostly removed myself from shooting brakes simply due to the fact that I get really bad headaches after long sessions of shooting. And quite honestly, it's one of the main reasons I've stopped shooting Open guns in USPSA. (Decades in the Army finally caught up). So the reason for this purchase was to simply use the CHAD when I travel to locations that don't allow me to use suppressors. The problems that I've had with other brakes is the concussion felt at the shooter. Previous brakes were HORRIBLE. The CHAD does not have that same concussion effect that I've experienced in the past. However, the sound signature from outside the shooter is certainly there. When shooting the CHAD, I noticed what can be described best as a gust of wind flying "around me" vs "at me." The CHAD performs as intended and advertised, and likely the best brake I've ever shot. It literally does not move off target. After shooting targets at 525 and 585 yards with build and break drills on a wobbly ladder and single bag, the performance of the CHAD is quite apparent and a positive one. The price tag, however, is hard to swallow. So, I get it...

So what will I use going forward?

At this point I will likely be trying my next 2 day match with the Magnus RR-K, with the Maverick sitting on my backup rifle that I usually bring. I was happy with the Magnus RR-K and it's initial performance. The CHAD will be put away and likely only be used when I'm forced to shoot a brake. It is a stellar performing brake, but brakes still remain a contentious issue for my brain, ears, and sinuses.

Hope this helps people. My 2 cents...

Here is the story of my redneck/cheapskate SPR Not saying you have to do the same this is just what I did and the results.

It did not start as an SPR build. I ran across a stripped brownells lower for cheap. So I got it with no idea what I was going to do.

Fast forward several months perhaps a year. I decided to make a coyote/hunting rifle. Since I was not using it for CQB etc I got a cheap A2 stock and inexpensive lower build kit. I did get a CMC trigger, more on that later.

Well for the upper. I wanted a 20 inch barrel free floated. Why? Because I wanted the velocity and free floated barrel.

After looking around I got a Bear Creek upper with 18 inch barrel. Why 18? Because they didn't have a 20 in stock. This was supposed to be MOA guarantee. The barrel came in and it looked fine with a bolt carrier stamp MPI.

Now people will hammer me for getting a Bear Creek but I got a complete upper for less than I could get all the parts etc minus the barrel and put it together. If it shot like crap I could pull the barrel off accurate the upper with my tool and get a better barrel.

Optics. I had an old Leupold VX2 3-9x 40 laying around. Slapped it on. Good enough for what I was going to do.

I had it a few months and realized I had built an SPR rifle aka cheap skate version. Remember folks SPR/MK-12 is a concept not a parts list. If you are a clone type good for you. Go for it. I was just throwing together an AR for yots and the range not a combat tour.

Results. Its been a couple years. It will keep 1-1.5 MOA with good match ammo. You cant expect to put crap ammo through any barrel and get good results. Oh yea this thing has NEVER jammed on me. More than I can say for the M-16s I had in the Army.

The CMC trigger went to crap. It became soft and mushy and occasionally would not reset. I contacted them and they immediately sent me a return order. I got busy and pulled it out slapped in a stock trigger that came with my kit.

Its been a few months and I did not get around to sending it in yet and lost the paperwork. That is on me, I can not fault them. Now that I have it out I might call them and explain I am a dumb ass. I find it comical the one high quality part I put in failed. Again They were very responsive I don't want any misgivings to come across about them.

Lessons-

1. I am a cheap bastard. No secret there.
2. Your best accessory is ammo and trigger time.
3. Sometimes good enough is good enough. My complete build was around $500 if my memory serves me correctly.
4. You don't need a sub MOA rifle for everything. Yea I have a couple built rifles including a tac ops. Think of it this way. A human head is about 6 inches. A crap 2 MOA gun is a head shot at 300 yards. Be realistic. Very few true sub MOA rifle exist meaning they will do it consistently ie every time with the right ammo.

Anyway if you want to build a rifle but cant afford a top end perhaps you can get something cheaper that will get the job done. A lot of people here will disagree and say you have to put a mortgage payment or two for a gun then the same for the optic but just get something and get to shooting. Enjoy what you got instead of dreaming about something. The shooter is the most important part of the equation start building your skills now not in 10 years.

Well that's it from me. Hope I didn't hurt any feeling. No wait, I don't care. Just some feedback from an old man that may get some young guys out shooting instead of dreaming and and away from the keyboard.

Upper: BNIB factory cerakoted. It has been mated to the lower that is also listed in the ad but never fired. Comes with everything from the factory: BUIS, pic rail & buffer

Lower: BNIB factory cerakoted, purchased at the same time as the upper and the colors match. Lower is marked 7.62 and also marked BLEM on the inside. I cannot find any imperfections on it and I don't know why it's considered a blem. Unfired, KAC trigger installed.

Upper: Now $4800 shipped
Lower: $1.8k shipped
Complete rifle: Now $6369 shipped

I will not sell the lower separately until the upper is sold. DM for any questions, additional pictures etc...

**This is crosslisted on ar15.com** I have the same username with +55 positive feedback.

Trade interests: Impact Precision Actions or something equivalent

Hey optic experts,

how far can someone accurately shoot with a scope with a fixed parallax, let´s fixed at 100yds.?

From which distance is parallax adjustment recommandable or mandatory?

I have a VERY lightly used Manners TCS Rem 700 SA. It has a full weight kit for the rail as well as an installed .15 longer latch for Vudoo Magazines to fit tight. The OE Factory Mini Chassis latch is included. The color is Black Carbon with Blue Splatter.

The stock has been used less than 6 matches. I just prefer my PRS1T for all my Rimfire.

I am located in Western Ky and will ship UPS after payment is received. I can accept PayPal Trusted/ Friends & Family or cover the 4% fees. I can also accept Venmo and gift and will provide you my cell for trusted transaction or cover the 4% Fee there as well.

New the cost is almost $1800

Asking $1500 Shipped OBO.

UPS shipping will be covered by me. That will cost about $40-$50.

Send me a message in DM and I will gladly answer any questions you have. I am not looking for any trades unless it is a PRS1T with M5 Mini Chassis where user has to provide bottom metal.

*** Trades ***
Zermatt Arms TL3 SA or Origin + or - funds
MPA matrix Pro Chassis Rem 700 SA
ARC XYLO SA Chassis

5x 308 Win FEDERAL GMM 175gr Matchking,
2x BLACKHILLS 175gr BTHP Match ( believe this is Sierra MK),
3x FEDERAL GMM 168gr Match King,
1x HSM 168gr Berger
1x HSM 168 Sierra Gameking
All 308 Win ammo is pictured.
All ammo pictured is part of this lot 15 boxes of loaded ammo total.
The ammo in the ammo box has had the cardboard end mashed somewhat by the lid of the box but is perfectly good ammo.
Not shown are 4 boxes of fired Blackhills 175gr for those of you that handload.
Treefiddy $350

Manners T4A mini-chassis with Badger EFR. Installed and Cerakoted woodland camo by Short Action Customs. Area 419 Pic rail on front bottom for bipod, flush cups etc.
I'll post more and better photos later today.

Venmo

SOLD! S&I (OBO) no trades

Anyone ever try making it?

If so post your feedback here.

6.5 140GR VLD Hunting (299ct) $140 Shipped (SOLD)

6.5 140GR Elite Hunter (200ct) $120 Shipped (SOLD)

6.5 140GR Hybrid Target (100ct) $50 Shipped

7MM 180GR Hybrid Target (100ct) $60 Shipped

30Cal 185GR Classic Hunter (100ct) $50 Shipped (SOLD)

I saw a somewhat similar thread on here about this, but I thought I would ask a more specific question about this.

I zero'd in at 100 yards about week ago, and I didn't move the turrets because we ran out of daylight. Yesterday, I was getting ready to move my turrets up, when my friend told me I would need to move it DOWN. I was confused, but he went on to explain this is the phenomenon he's always experienced when he shoots on this part of the property (with all his guns). I bet him he was wrong.

I took a few shots at 200 yards yesterday, and I shot about 5" high! WTF?! I thought I was zero'd well at 100 yards. I figure I my zero at 100 yards must be way off. We ran out of daylight again, so I couldn't do anymore to investigate.

I think the spot we are shooting 200 yards from might actually sit up another 6' in elevation...but that isn't going to make a big difference is it? Shooting angle would down a small small amount, but I doubt that could account for shooting 5" high at 200 yards, could it?

We didn't have the Kestrel working on either day of shooting, but it seemed a little windy on the day of shooting 100 yards, and yesterday it seemed very very calm. Similar temps.

Another friend showed up yesterday and I mentioned this to him. He went on to describe something else...This is something other people have talked about before too, which is that the bullet is still travelling up when it impacts the target. I am familiar with this discussion, though I don't think the bullet would still be travelling upward, away from the horizontal at 200 yards, unless I really messed up my 100 yard zero.

Is it possible to mess up a scope sight-in so badly, a bullet literally does not reach its peak elevation and begin to fall toward the horizontal, when impacting a target?

I'm lost on what could cause this, other than an improper zero at a shorter distance.

For a hard use hunting build. Short action.

Would like to check as many of the boxes as I can:

*Durable, something that’ll withstand hard use
*withstand some dust/dirty environments
*not titanium
*60 or 70* bolt lift I really dislike 90*
* as light as possible
*built jn recoil lug and pic rail
*prefits available
*rem700 footprint
*AW mags would be a nice touch

Mk13 Mod5 - painstakingly built on a return chassis with a return pelican. Comes with kit, mags, and S&B Pantone. Only a few mags down range.

Must ship to your FFL.

Scope has sold.

Rifle, Issued Pelican, and Kit remain.

SOLD

This is a serious problem. But there is hope.

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Looking for most terminal damage with velocity but also would like maneuverability since it won't be just a bi-pod gun. Max range will be 400 yards with a LPVO. And will also have the ability for hand loading with SMK.

I'm thinking 16" but I'm open to what others think.

Man, that 'vette owner was lucky before he went John Wick on the truck driver.

Curious what was the backstory.

Getting out of PRS moving to the field match and gas gun area.

Defiance Ruckus 308bolt
Action wrench
BNA Tac Sport Pro
KRG Bravo w/ enclosed arca
SJA 6 creed
ATS tuner
PVA Shockwave
4x MDT weights
2x MDT 308 12rds mags
2x Accurate 10rds
Feedlip tool
AICS mag holster

Additional barrels

Trainer 223 rem no bolt for it Montonna rifle man blank 7 twist

DST 6 creed with pVA jetblast

Proof Research 6 creed comp contour

Free pint size game changer with full offer

Asking 4000$ shipped in a pelican case

Only trades

SP10M in 6 creed
Seekins DMR lower complete
10.5 upper complete
Ckyepod arcs