yes break things because its warrentied.
just brilliant. You sound like the 2020 protestors who think destroying property is okay because it's insured.
Or you could correct the issue on the front end and not worry about it.
Gapping the rings, changing the exhaust valves and better springs is not 15K.
Not even with rods and pistons, which you don't need but would be insurance.
When did I say basically "purposely break things" as you are insinuating??? I didnt. I have said many times FORD will honor the warranty with their blower package on the car. FORD has a lot more experience and engineering into that to say "we will guarantee this for 3/36k"... My point is if Ford is willing to honor the 3/36k even WITH the blower... who cares if the motor blows up... let Ford take care of it.
In your case you say "pull the motor apart on a brand new car and do xyz to keep this from happening" and then, GUESS WHAT, you ACTUALLY HAVE NO WARRANTY from that point forward... that sounds real smart...
I can buy the ring gap theory due to higher cylinder pressures and temps.
Coyote's have stainless exhaust valves from the factory... so what does changing exhaust valves gain you? I mean you could go to inconel to handle some more heat...
And why "better" valve springs? Coyote's will spin to 7k+ on factory valve springs just fine and do that for 100's of thousands of miles... Putting a heavier spring in "just because" is not really a fix for anything except increased cam, valve train and valve seat wear. If you dont need a higher rate spring in order to control valve train at higher RPM's, just putting them in for the sake of putting them in is pointless. So now you have a valve train that is pushing against a higher rate spring to open valves as well as trying to open valves against boost... I can "sort of" buy higher rate intake valve springs on an FI car to help keep the valve closed while the intake tract is pressurized... but again valve spring rate needs to be matched to RPM capabilities otherwise you are just wearing parts for the sake of wearing parts... The other part of valve springs getting changed is if you change cams and the springs you have will hit coil bind with a higher lift cam. Ive been through the gamut of spring selection when building my current road race motor... singles, doubles, bee-hive vs. conical, rates, installed height, coil bind, resonance frequencies, etc... There is so much more to valve spring selection than just "I want better springs"...