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Non comp 22

jdulaney,
I have 2 B14R in factory stocks. I shoot long range steel from benches. They are a great guns, but I would not want to carry them in the field. I have a T1X, it is very accurate. I put it in a KRG Bravo to add some weight to get it close to the B14R, with NO accuracy improvement. When I added my second B14R, I then put the T1X back in the factory, for Sporter / factory class and matches, and hunting. The B14R's are a little more accurate, than the T1X, but not by much. All three will shoot sub MOA out to 400yds in good wind conditions. I had CZ 455, but sold them to keep with the B14R and T1X. I changed the triggers on the B14R to Triggertech Diamonds. All the T1X needs is a trigger spring change to have a one lb. trigger.

Rifle Scopes Hunting Scope suggestions

I think you just described one of the Vortex Razor HD LHT Twins. These are both SFP. But they do feature a useable low powered reticle, locking elevation turret, capped windage, light weight (19.1 oz), & HD Glass. You can get either of them in the $1200. range. I should note these are hunting scopes, not range orientated scopes masquerading as hunting scopes. Either the:

Razor® HD LHT™ 3-15x50 G4i BDC (MRAD) Reticle | 30mm Tube

or the:

Razor® HD LHT™ 3-15x42 HSR-5i (MRAD) Reticle | 30mm Tube

The hardest specification you list is a useable reticle at low power. That rules out almost all of the FFP flavors, as they are mostly pretty useless at low power, especially on the higher powered examples.

In short you have to give up something (FFP) to get a really useful reticle at low power, with or without illumination. You have to decide which is most important.
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Pizza Mother Fucker

One of the best pizzas I have had in a while was a frozen pizza from Walmart.

I was in Chicago this past week and had Chicago deep dish. It's good, but its not really pizza if you have to eat it with a fork.

If you want real pizza, go to New Haven Ct, and find Pepe's on Worchester (Woostah) Square. Sally's is good too, but it gives me indigestion.
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Interesting… and raises ethical questions!!

If i understand correctly you are going off of straight math to make your determination of "what it is". That is a simple and straightforward way of explaining it.

Do you think this is a starting point or proof of concept ? As time goes on they could slowly "improve" the dire wolf genome to make it closer to the extinct species? Or just stick with what works and go the restomod route?
It’s not just straight math. With 99% homology to chimpanzees, it is the differences that make us human. Could we make 20 or so changes to the chimpanzee genome and create a human? No. But, could we create a tall, hairless chimp, with low muscle tone? Yeah, I think we could.

As I said in my initial post, this is a headline grabbing experiment designed to source additional funding for the underlying research.

To the second question, scientists might be able to “restomod” ancient extinct species. Or, create chimeras with the physical characteristics of extinct species. Recently extinct species, where actual preserved tissue is available, might be able to be resurrected, but this tech does nothing for the underlying issues that cause extinctions (habitat loss, poaching, lack of genetic diversity, etc).

Sorry, no one’s going to ever see a herd of wooly mammoths roaming the steppes. Even if they can be resurrected, there’s just no place for them.

(As far as biological molecules go, DNA is pretty stable. But, it’s not that stable. A really good, fresh, DNA sample will have an average molecule length of greater than 50,000 base pairs. Samples that have been handled a bit, thawed a couple of times, and generally not been treated with kid gloves will have average molecule lengths from a few thousand up to about 20,000 base pairs in length, in my experience. “Ancient DNA,” where it can be sourced, will tend to have molecule lengths of just a few hundred base pairs. Why does this matter?

The shortest human chromosome has a length of about 48 million base pairs. And, genes are not placed “Willy nilly” on chromosomes. They have regulatory elements, transcription factors, elements that control RNA splicing, pseudo genes, duplications, etc. “Where” on the chromosome is almost as important as “what.”)

While the researchers might have been able to “sequence” the dire wolf genome, “assembly” is the real kicker. Their “genome map” is broken into thousands (tens of thousands?) of pieces, and contains gaps of missing data. They can use genomes of extant species {like the grey wolf} to infer how to piece together the dire wolf genome, but it’s an educated guess. If a grey wolf genome map exists, it is certainly fragmented into thousands of pieces itself…

As a further aside, the most contiguous human genome to date (the most studied species on earth) is fragmented into roughly 800 pieces. That’s about 40x more than the 23 chromosomes that we have.
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Rifle Scopes Hunting Scope suggestions

As a long standing supporting vendor here it's always our pleasure to assist the members here. Please feel free to give us a call, 516-217-1000, so we can assist you personally with different available options and special opportunities as well as discuss what would be best for you. .
Always better to support a family owned business rather than big box plus we help keep the lights on here at SH as well as other forums.
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Secret Service Eyes New 6.5mm Semi-Automatic Sniper Rifle (RFI)

How far down did you cut it? I'm considering going as far as 14.5"

16.75". I was squeamish on cutting the 20" down. No cans because IL sucks and this was a personal toy.

By the time I have enough glass and a decent stock (would probably do a PRS lite if it were today), 18-18.5" would've been just fine

I didn't keep it long. Though in the spirit of this thread, I would have liked to be 2700, but pushing a better bullet is still pushing a better bullet. Ultimately I still arrived at the same conclusion I've done many times before with shorter semi autos: A 16-18" small frame and/or a shorty bolt gun will get me where I need to go.
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Brass Annealing Guide

Question for ya all, I'm a rookie at this annealing.

So I shoot 6BR and worked up a load with good velocity and ES. I have been shooting this specific load for about 500 rounds
now, but I went to the range yesterday and noticed my velocities are about 50-60 fps faster and close to pressure with heavy bolt lift. I'm thinking maybe my brass necks are getting hard causing higher pressures???
I'm shooting same Exact load as when I worked it up.

I just got my Annealez last week and was wondering if it is too late to anneal the brass, or is this something that needs to be done every firing?
Can I bring the brass back to its happy place or is it trash?
Should I just buy new brass and start annealing every firing from here on out?
Thank you for any help.
As above, YES. . . you can "bring the brass back to its happy place". So, no. . . you don't have to trash them and get new brass.

I anneal after every firing as the sizing process is what really does the work hardening. How much work hardening your dies do depends on how much you're moving the brass. Standard FL sizing dies that are marketed tend to move the brass a lot. So, using eight custom dies or a bushing die where the necks are only reduce to ~.002 below you're final objective after expanding is a good way to reduce the amount of work hardening being done on your brass's necks.

To answer your question. . . no, you don't have to anneal after every firing. But don't let it go too long. I'd say at most, don't let it go for more than 3 firings. You'll get the most consistency doing it after every firing, though you many not notice any difference.

Just be aware, you may not be getting the necks hot enough to actually get there if you're following the typical procedure often stated in the various forums. That is. . . 650°F will not do it for the short times typically used, but 650°C can do just fine. I've been using an Annealeez for 8 years now and I found that the "glow method" is the easiest way to determine when I get to (or very close to) that 650°C. And that when the neck glows red for about 1 second (best to see that in a darkened room). With my Annealeez, that takes ~ 9 seconds for my .308 cases with neck thicknesses of .014". It's the neck I look to see glow. . .not below it, so have to be sure the flame is set up in such a way to get that. Having done hardness testing on my brass, I found this is what I had to do to get the hardness/softness I measured on my virgin Lapua brass.

Non comp 22

I've been thrilled with my Ruger American Rimfire. The barrel's hawkeye borescope was remarkable, with almost no tool marks. An uncomplicated replacement of the trigger return spring will result in a safe, crisp trigger pull of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lbs. Mine prefers Eley Benchrest Outlaw. On a calm day, I've been obtaining 0.9 moa (0.54") five-shot groups from 60 yards.
I have looked at those a little seen some decent reviews. The waypoint 2020 looks like it would be a nice one for the price, but not many good reviews.
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