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Tikka T3 Thread

How capable is the T3X CTR .223? I’m debating buying a T3X and throwing it in a KRG Bravo, but stuck on whether a factory CTR or rebarreled T3X Lite w/ prefit is the way to go. Further, as far as .223 is concerned, is CTR mag the way to go or do the MDT/similar .223 AICS mags work well?
 
How capable is the T3X CTR .223? I’m debating buying a T3X and throwing it in a KRG Bravo, but stuck on whether a factory CTR or rebarreled T3X Lite w/ prefit is the way to go. Further, as far as .223 is concerned, is CTR mag the way to go or do the MDT/similar .223 AICS mags work well?
Good luck finding a ctr .223. My factory varmint barrel shoots good. I would shoot what you have for a while and then replace the barrel later on if you want something new or your not happy with it. I use aics mags with my .223 and it feeds perfectly with bravo stock.
 
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Good luck finding a ctr .223. My factory varmint barrel shoots good. I would shoot what you have for a while and then replace the barrel later on if you want something new or your not happy with it. I use aics mags with my .223 and it feeds perfectly with bravo stock.
I also have a factory T3X 223 Varmint in a KRG Bravo using AICS style mags - works great
 
Good luck finding a ctr .223. My factory varmint barrel shoots good. I would shoot what you have for a while and then replace the barrel later on if you want something new or your not happy with it. I use aics mags with my .223 and it feeds perfectly with bravo stock.
Lites are available, but not threaded which is a deal breaker. For someone swapping stocks the CTR doesn’t include anything except a reasonable profile barrel that’s threaded and a magazine, since I’m assuming the bottom metal doesn’t get reused for CTR (and obviously not for AICS) and the pic rail is 0 MOA so it could go.
 
Yeah you would be better off buying the action and threaded barrel and krg stock with aics mags. That way you don’t have to worry about taking the factory barrel off. You don’t save much just buying the action rather than the tikka lite just one less headache possibly saving money in have gunsmith cut the barrel to remove it from the action.
 
So after hearing that the tikka barrels are an absolute pain in the ass to get off, I called a local gunsmith to see if they would remove it for me before me going out and buying the tools…. If I only remove one barrel is it worth getting the tools was my thought.. and get this… they called me back and said yes they can get it off but it will most likely destroy the factory barrel!?

First off, is this true? Secondly, what kind of gun smith can’t take a barrel off and destroy it in the process?!
 
So after hearing that the tikka barrels are an absolute pain in the ass to get off, I called a local gunsmith to see if they would remove it for me before me going out and buying the tools…. If I only remove one barrel is it worth getting the tools was my thought.. and get this… they called me back and said yes they can get it off but it will most likely destroy the factory barrel!?

First off, is this true? Secondly, what kind of gun smith can’t take a barrel off and destroy it in the process?!
They're really not that hard to pull I'd never removed a bolt gun barrel before doing Tikkas and I've done three without an issue. My local smith said the same thing yours did I don't know if they just say that to prepare you for worst case or just don't want to do it. Barrel vise and action wrench are like $175 and you could sell them after you're done if you want. Plus you will have a barrel to sell or keep for another use.
 
They're really not that hard to pull I'd never removed a bolt gun barrel before doing Tikkas and I've done three without an issue. My local smith said the same thing yours did I don't know if they just say that to prepare you for worst case or just don't want to do it. Barrel vise and action wrench are like $175 and you could sell them after you're done if you want. Plus you will have a barrel to sell or keep for another use.


Ok those are fair points! Got any suggestions for a vice and action wrench?!
 
Ok those are fair points! Got any suggestions for a vice and action wrench?!
I've got a PMA vise that I really like and lots of guys use the viper in fact I think there's one on the PX right now.


External action wrench to remove factory barrel https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006553372

To install your prefit you can use the external and snug it up and verify headspace with gauges or buy an internal wrench and torque per the prefits specs. These have been out of stock most normal channels but are listed on ebay. I got one from this supplier in CN (prices are Canadian so USD are less) https://store.xtremegunshootingcent...uct_info&cPath=&products_id=1496#.YqlfY6ROmDY

Will also need a headspace gauge if you don't have one.

Does kind of add up if you don't have any of this. There are also some posts about methodology people use. I used pitchers rosin and drywall tape to wrap the barrel for grip and packing tape on the receiver.
 
I am pretty certain most of those having problems getting tikka barrels off are clamping the action wrench way too tight causing the threads to bind
 
I am pretty certain most of those having problems getting tikka barrels off are clamping the action wrench way too tight causing the threads to bind
Yes good point. Wrench bolts finger tight on the receiver then a slight turn of the bolts with a tool. On Tikka's there's just enough room to get the action wrench on the receiver behind the threads.
 
There's a spot in the cheek piece height that the cocking indicator hits the cheek piece. Easy fix and takss 15 sec with a Dremel.
 
I've got a PMA vise that I really like and lots of guys use the viper in fact I think there's one on the PX right now.


External action wrench to remove factory barrel https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006553372

To install your prefit you can use the external and snug it up and verify headspace with gauges or buy an internal wrench and torque per the prefits specs. These have been out of stock most normal channels but are listed on ebay. I got one from this supplier in CN (prices are Canadian so USD are less) https://store.xtremegunshootingcent...uct_info&cPath=&products_id=1496#.YqlfY6ROmDY

Will also need a headspace gauge if you don't have one.

Does kind of add up if you don't have any of this. There are also some posts about methodology people use. I used pitchers rosin and drywall tape to wrap the barrel for grip and packing tape on the receiver.


This is great! Thank you! Question though…. Is there any upside / downside to an external action wrench vs one of the internal action specific such as this: Tikka action wrench
 
This caught my eye…can you expound?
Above a certain cheek pad height the bolt hits the cheek piece before it comes all the way back to pick up a new round.
 

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Above a certain cheek pad height the bolt hits the cheek piece before it comes all the way back to pick up a new round.

Ok…. Maybe this is obvious or not…. But why not take the cheek piece off or lower it to take the bolt out….? Mark the raise point on the check piece lugs so you can get it back to the original position…. This is what I do with my MDT XRS
 
Ok…. Maybe this is obvious or not…. But why not take the cheek piece off or lower it to take the bolt out….? Mark the raise point on the check piece lugs so you can get it back to the original position…. This is what I do with my MDT XRS
The problem is the action won't cycle its not related to removing the bolt.
 
KRG makes a specific cheek piece with a larger cutout to clear Tikka bolts and R700 long action bolts. If I recall it was included in the purchase of my Tikka Bravo direct from KRG. They are also available under their spare parts section.
 
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Two questions for CTR stock owners.

Can you measure the shortest possible LOP with no spacers?

Could you remove the forward sling stud and mount a pic rail for a bipod?
 
I just received my new .308 Super Varmint, and there was something.. that I can't figure out, in the box.

These are the tools / parts that came with the rifle. Pretty standard stuff. Two screws for the sling swivels were already screwed to the stock. But.. what are the screws with larger holes in their heads. What are these used for? Some other kind of sling, or..?

IMG_20220623_182243__01.jpg
 
QD sling attachments?

I never received any of those with my 223 CTR or 6.5 Tac A1, although I did receive QD sling mounts but in the m-lok format
 
I just received my new .308 Super Varmint, and there was something.. that I can't figure out, in the box.

These are the tools / parts that came with the rifle. Pretty standard stuff. Two screws for the sling swivels were already screwed to the stock. But.. what are the screws with larger holes in their heads. What are these used for? Some other kind of sling, or..?

View attachment 7897617
You can mount these to your bolt side to the stock.
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I have a T3x TACT A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Can I get a prefit barrel in 6 BRA or 6 BR as I’d like to try less recoil in PRS style shooting? If so where.
I appreciate any help.

Mike
 
I have a T3x TACT A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Can I get a prefit barrel in 6 BRA or 6 BR as I’d like to try less recoil in PRS style shooting? If so where.
I appreciate any help.

Mike
 
I loved my T3 as a 308, but I've always wanted a 6BR, so I had David Sink in NC build this for me. A 26" Benchmark barrel, Boyd's stock, Warne cantilever mount, and a 6x24 Arken scope, with a trigger that breaks at about 13 ounces. All-up weight is about 14 pounds, but it snugs down nicely on the bench bags, and has turned in some gratifying groups, though load development continues with Berger 105's. I don't hunt, but the primary purpose for this rifle is to snipe yellow-jackets and other stabby-butt things at distance. Pour out some Orange Soda and get comfy, they always find it in a few minutes.

I call it the BlueJay.


 
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I have a T3x TACT A1 in 6.5 Creedmoor. Can I get a prefit barrel in 6 BRA or 6 BR as I’d like to try less recoil in PRS style shooting? If so where.
I appreciate any help.

Mike
I couldn't get BR or even GT cases to feed well out of ctr mags.

Go 6 or 22 Creed or swap to a chassis.

You could sell the tac a1 folder and make enough to buy a bravo with a couple hundred to spare.
 
My T3 that was fitted with a Hawk Hill 1/8 6.5CM Barrel was just wasted on me, so I kept it stored for a few years until the time was ripe. A young local competition shooter who was already doing well with a 308 at PRS has a chance to go to the Precision Rifle World Championships in France this August. I sold him the barrelled action and also made a the E-Tac stock to suit the competition. Light weight carbon structure with added internal lead in the right places. Overall weight of the stock alone including arca rail is 5lb. The old T3 action fitted with the mentioned Hawk Hill Marksman profiled barrel will have Element or Schmidt & Bender PMII on top once the Spuhr rail arrives. Happy customer.

YsywYX2.jpg


edi
 
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