I hear ya about the scenery. I’m currently headed to Kermit for work. Definitely the asshole of Texas (& possibly all of the US!).Have a look at Imperial, Texas. As far as landscape, and the trashy town, it is a terrible part of the state. But, at lunch time there's a Mexican Abuela making brisket tacos out of a food truck, parked at an abandoned gas station.
We left out of a ranch next to Black Gap WMA on the morning of the end of a mule deer hunt. Buddy I was with said "we will get lunch in Imperial". I said "Imperial! You gotta be shitting me!" He said "you'll see". He was oh so right!
But yes, some of the food places are fantastic!