• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

For the Love of God, GI Joe and John Wayne.... cleaning and abrasive cleaners

Nope, I save all that for you pathetic fucks who have more keyboard than brain and like to snipe comment expecting no reaction and then crying victim when you get shown a fool.
I'm sure you were civil and even tempered with WOM just as you are here, a true gentleman. He, obviously is the unreasonable one. I have to assume that because you said so. :rolleyes:
 
  • Like
Reactions: RRW
I'm sure you were civil and even tempered with WOM just as you are here, a true gentleman. He, obviously is the unreasonable one. I have to assume that because you said so. :rolleyes:
Oh I got you all nice and snared don't I? Knew you couldn't resist running this mother fucker into the ground. We'll hold hands, together! I bet you can't stop replying! LOLOLOL
 
Oh I got you all nice and snared don't I? Knew you couldn't resist running this mother fucker into the ground. We'll hold hands, together! I bet you can't stop replying! LOLOLOL
It's possible that you just might be right for once.

I double dog dare you to not reply and keep this thing going.

How'd I do? Wouldn't want to disappoint. . .
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: BCP and FredHammer
So back on topic...


To respond to myself... highly effective for preventing corrosion/rust on raw steel, but I haven't seen much on use in bores or anything on reactivity w/ other chemicals. I did find this informal test on AS.


Norway discontinued the use of steel core ammo due to the increased copper and zinc particulate matter causing illness. From the paper I linked in #141:

Compared to the lead core ammo tested, the steel core ammo produced 3x to 4x the amount of copper and zinc mg/m^3. From Section 3.2:
1-s2.0-S0887233321000205-gr2.jpg


I doubt a monolithic copper bullet would produce the same amount of fouling as the steel core, but it would certainly be more than a lead core.

Corrrosion-X is a modern cosmoline.

I used it on my last boat motor. A 2008 Yamaha 60hp.
After 13 years on salt water it still looked new under the cowling.

I wouldn't want to try and scrub it out of a barrel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lash
So, the Tubbs final finish and Thorroclean arrive tomorrow. I'll get my shit together the next few days and report how the barnacle reduction goes. It'll be a separate post with all it's glory. LOL
 
Corrrosion-X is a modern cosmoline.
Good to know, thanks.

I already thinly applied Corrosion-X to a carbon .22 bore. I didn't wipe it out before shooting SK Rifle Match (10 shot SD 5.1) & Long Range Match (10 shot SD 6.7). Velocities & accuracy were typical... probably not going to use it in any center fire bores, except for long term storage.
 
So, the Tubbs final finish and Thorroclean arrive tomorrow. I'll get my shit together the next few days and report how the barnacle reduction goes. It'll be a separate post with all it's glory. LOL
Mr. Green silently shakes his head. Guess you aren't too concerned about making it worse.

Why don't you just go get some lapping compound while you're at it?


If you are serious about your court case, you should keep the barrel as it is for your evidence. Just buy another one and go shoot. You can always go crazy on that barrel after you go to court.
 
Mr. Green silently shakes his head. Guess you aren't too concerned about making it worse.
There is no getting worse. There's barnacles in it! 20rnds and its a copper nightmare.
Why don't you just go get some lapping compound while you're at it?


If you are serious about your court case, you should keep the barrel as it is for your evidence. Just buy another one and go shoot. You can always go crazy on that barrel after you go to court.
I got pictures, it will have to do. I'll fight even if I can't win.

Anyway, it'll be an experiment. The why the barrel got wrecked is moot on the experiment. It's just moving forward on how to fix, if it can be.
 
There is no getting worse. There's barnacles in it! 20rnds and its a copper nightmare.

I got pictures, it will have to do. I'll fight even if I can't win.

Anyway, it'll be an experiment. The why the barrel got wrecked is moot on the experiment. It's just moving forward on how to fix, if it can be.
Fix it…that’ll be the day. But have fun. Can’t hardly duck it up more. That barrel is toast.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BCP and FredHammer
@Frank Green - good question here. I too always thought of powder fowling being some shat of brown to tan and that the black stuff we see in the first part of our barrels is carbon.

Please confirm that I’m understanding you correctly and that it’s really powder residue.

Thanks as always for participating here with us. Priceless. 💪 (y)
Don't know how else to say it. It's the burnt charcoal buddy!

Not a great picture but you can see the inside of a brand new barrel looks just like the outside. Nice and shiny and silver in color.

I took a hunk of scrap barrel and chambered it with a 308 Obermeyer reamer and made a dummy round so when I go an teach classes they can see what a new throat looks like and a worn out one. Think I have this piece kicking around now for about 10 years but it gets the point across.

1692793847225.jpeg
 
Opinions on using the chamber reamer in a T handle to slow spin/knock off the barnacles in the leade/throat/case neck area? Or would it just ruin a chamber reamer too?
 
Opinions on using the chamber reamer in a T handle to slow spin/knock off the barnacles in the leade/throat/case neck area? Or would it just ruin a chamber reamer too?
I’ve done that once or twice to remove a stubborn carbon ring. It worked just ok so I don’t do that any more.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FredHammer
So, the Tubbs final finish and Thorroclean arrive tomorrow. I'll get my shit together the next few days and report how the barnacle reduction goes. It'll be a separate post with all it's glory. LOL
I'm actually curious to see how it goes. I've got a shot out barrel that I plan to run some of the Tubbs thru and do a before and after.
 
I'm actually curious to see how it goes. I've got a shot out barrel that I plan to run some of the Tubbs thru and do a before and after.
Conducting the experiment will happen. Reporting the results is still up in the air.
 
I wish the regular members would just ignore FredHammer, or whatever its name is.
I’m gonna go out on a limb here and suggest the mods warning to me might have been all encompassing for those who can’t have a technical discussion. Personal attacks I should think is included as well. Just a thought.
 
I warned people 101 posts ago. Some gotta learn the hard way.
What's the warning? What am I doing that is just so terrible? Post my experiences in the shooting world? Something goes good or bad for me I'll post it. Simple enough. What I will do is fire back at the goblins & the haters. Because they are not kept in check on this site. Post like a decent person, I will reply the same. Post like a punk and I'll treat you as such.

It costs nothing to be nice.
 
Cleaning rods & bore guides have been beat to death on here... but this thread is about bore damage from abrasives, so I'll go ahead and bring it up again.

Not using a bore/rod guide will enable the rod to drag in the bore. If using a coated rod it will lead to the coating getting damaged/rubbed off....if using a steel rod now you have steel on steel touching/dragging in the bore of the barrel.

Also think of this....the hard carbon particles in the bore of the barrel as you work that junk loose....they can and will scratch the bore as well.
Those small carbon particles can scratch the bore also. Think of where diamonds come from. Those carbon particles are very hard.

It seems that, with enough use, nylon-coated rods will always become impregnated with hardened carbon particles & damage the bore anytime your rod drags. Obviously a good bore guide will minimize this, but they won't prevent it. Wouldn't a polished stainless rod be superior to a coated rod, all other things being the same?

Edit

After more searching, it looks like you commented on this a decade ago, Frank. I'm guessing this still holds true?
The S.S. Proshot rods that I've seen seem to be really nice and straight.

Don't drop your coated rods! As far as foreign matter getting imbedded into the coating of the rod? Haven't seen it. Been using coated rods for around 20 years and like anything else if properly used I haven't seen it ever damage a barrel.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Frank Green
Here’s 6 minutes, same experiment. Cleaned the pin and beaker with denatured alcohol first and let it dry.

I wonder if your accelerator is a diffeeent product. Mine was bought off brownells about a year ago.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1251.jpeg
    IMG_1251.jpeg
    197.3 KB · Views: 86
Experiment concluded:

Stainless steel pin was cleaned with alcohol and allowed to dry before placing into accelerator in dish.

Pulled from container after 45 mins:
IMG_0813.jpeg

Cleaned with alcohol:
IMG_0816.jpeg

Corrosion:
IMG_0815.jpeg


“Oh that reddish color isn’t rust…” WOW!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 232593
Exact same result as your barrel.

My duplicate experiment is ongoing and still no change to the pin after 20 mins.

Your bottle is somehow different. It would be interesting to duplicate yours again with a new bottle of accelerator.
 
Last edited:
I'll borescope my barrel that I left wipe out patch out in for over 24 hours. I usually let it sit over night without issue so we'll see how 24 treats the steel
 
I'll borescope my barrel that I left wipe out patch out in for over 24 hours. I usually let it sit over night without issue so we'll see how 24 treats the steel
Usually the first thing I do when I get home from a match(only shoot one day matches, 100ish rounds) is spray Wipe out patch out in my barrel and let it sit for about 3 hours and then patch it out. This normally cleans mine good enough, if not I repeat the next day. I’m on my second GT barrel and have had zero issues. Whatever is in that bottle that @FredHammer is using is almost acting like an acid.
 
You should point him to these last few posts. There's obviously something different in yours. How old is it? How long had you been using it without issue?
I can't make out the date numbers on the bottle. I want to say I got it a year ago.
 
Mine has 24217 printed on the bottle. I have two unopened bottles and one has the same number and the other has none. I see nothing to indicate a date.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: FredHammer
Mine, which must be older based on the number and which has had no issues so far. Just as a curiosity, the patch out matching bottle is 8472.
Accelerator.jpg