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Maggie’s The Welding and Metalworking Thread

Many of the regulators that come with welders even name brand welders are not very good and installed aftermarket regulators on all of my welders preferring the vial type. Have had cylinders where the regulator would just not seat properly which is why I turn the gas off when not welding even if I am taking a break for an hour or so.

That Lincoln is a good welder. I would check the o-rings on the power pin where it inserts into the drive mechanism and make sure it is fully seated, If you had good gas flow before probably not and issue. For those times when you are out of gas keep a spool of flux core around. Keep at least one extra cylinder on hand because it sucks to be in the middle of a project and run out of gas. Like you my gas supplier is a one hour round trip away. A pressure check gauge is handy if you have multiple cylinders.
 
I can weld a little, but most of my metalwork is done swinging a hammer.

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Update,

Last night I take the tank and hook it up to the old welder. Crack the valve....one gauge has pressure (flow one) the other is nothing. On the new welder both flat lined no matter what I did. Plug the welder in and click the trigger.

Psssst out comes the gas. I try this a few times. Works every time.

I take the hose off the back of the old welder and transfer all the "old stuff" to the new machine. Same results, Pssst out comes gas.

I soapy water the crap out of everything and no bubbles. Boy came over with an early Christmas Present.

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I did not use the welder after that, but I hear gas coming out and will just really try to listen to that going forward. It could be "almost empty" or the gauges could just be not good.

Now looking at new gauges. I like the idea of the flow bubble.

Any suggestions on where to look. I would like to keep the price under what a good bottle of Scotch costs, you know priorities.
 
Many of the regulators that come with welders even name brand welders are not very good and installed aftermarket regulators on all of my welders preferring the vial type. Have had cylinders where the regulator would just not seat properly which is why I turn the gas off when not welding even if I am taking a break for an hour or so.

That Lincoln is a good welder. I would check the o-rings on the power pin where it inserts into the drive mechanism and make sure it is fully seated, If you had good gas flow before probably not and issue. For those times when you are out of gas keep a spool of flux core around. Keep at least one extra cylinder on hand because it sucks to be in the middle of a project and run out of gas. Like you my gas supplier is a one hour round trip away. A pressure check gauge is handy if you have multiple cylinders.

Being so far away I think I am going to get another bottle. Also with the little Mig Pak 100 I figure I will just switch it back to flux core and go that way. I think the 100 is a transformer machine, the thing is about as heavy as the new one is why I think that, it is much smaller. If I need to go out back again to do something, I will not have to worry about that stupid bottle. I really think flux core gets a bad wrap. So I will set it up as the backup to the backup.

I really hate going into town for that stuff. I currently use a 60cf bottle and would like to get one the next size up. I think I could still muscle that one around pretty well. Anything past that is going to get too heavy I think.
 
You bought a nice new welder so pair it with a good regulator. I have this regulator on a couple of welders and has worked well. Flametech, Miller/Smith, Harris all make decent regulators.



Minimum bottle size I would get is a 120 CF and they are easy to handle. Buy your cylinders and just exchange them when empty.
 
My son is a couple months into a welding program right now. He is debilitatingly right handed, but sent me a pic of his tig welding, done left handed.

I’m not a welder, but I thought it looked pretty good…

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You bought a nice new welder so pair it with a good regulator. I have this regulator on a couple of welders and has worked well. Flametech, Miller/Smith, Harris all make decent regulators.



Minimum bottle size I would get is a 120 CF and they are easy to handle. Buy your cylinders and just exchange them when empty.


I was just worried about the size of the tank and having to move it around, I am just not as strong as I once was, not like I was ever "strong".

I am going to order that regulator.
 
I was just worried about the size of the tank and having to move it around, I am just not as strong as I once was, not like I was ever "strong".

I am going to order that regulator.
Between the weight of the tank and your machine, fabbing up a cart on casters might be a good project if you don’t already have one. You could fcaw it until you get your regulator in.
 
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Between the weight of the tank and your machine, fabbing up a cart on casters might be a good project if you don’t already have one. You could fcaw it until you get your regulator in.
I have a cart, my real worry was getting it in and out of the truck....and on said cart.

I watched that mythbusters episode.

 
Simple, but effective.
Oops, @Marinevet1 beat me to it.

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I am not really worried about it falling over, but if it did that would be my luck, likely bounce off a car or two. And I am not taking off the Reg between uses. That was really more of a fun comment.

Really, I struggle getting what I have out of the truck. I worry about the extra weight.

My new reg should be here today, thanks again for that.
 
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I am not really worried about it falling over, but if it did that would be my luck, likely bounce off a car or two. And I am not taking off the Reg between uses. That was really more of a fun comment.

Really, I struggle getting what I have out of the truck. I worry about the extra weight.

My new reg should be here today, thanks again for that.
Haha! Bounce of a car or two. That would be my luck also.
You could get one of them little cranes that goes in the bed, would be useful for lots of things.
 
Get a gas cylinder hand truck to move them around the shop. I use this on for up to 150 CF cylinders.


Use this one for 250 and 300 CF cylinders.



Get yourself one of these to properly set CFH at the torch and set the flow depending on the size of the nozzle.

 
Or you could learn how to roll a cylinder with your foot, like almost every welder I know. There was this one guy who claimed he was missing a few toes...
I never could get two cylinders rolling, but our welding supply driver is an ace at it.
 
Or you could learn how to roll a cylinder with your foot, like almost every welder I know. There was this one guy who claimed he was missing a few toes...
I never could get two cylinders rolling, but our welding supply driver is an ace at it.
Yeah, that's a bit of an art in itself. How they fly them bottles around the loading dock,,,, well, it's impressive.
 
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Or you could learn how to roll a cylinder with your foot, like almost every welder I know. There was this one guy who claimed he was missing a few toes...
I never could get two cylinders rolling, but our welding supply driver is an ace at it.

I have see that. But I am a little like a dog, I have no idea where my feet are going till I am standing on your foot.

Oh is that soft thing your foot.....sorry.
 
This lovely (very) fits this thread.

I picked up some metal cabinets I woul like to refurbished and Paine. Catch is they were setting on an industrial floor that was waxed fairly regularly with black wax. Every time the floor was waxed, the bottom edge of the cabinet got hit by the mop leaving a 3 or 4 inch high band of wax.

An suggestions on how to prep for paint?
 
This lovely (very) fits this thread.

I picked up some metal cabinets I woul like to refurbished and Paine. Catch is they were setting on an industrial floor that was waxed fairly regularly with black wax. Every time the floor was waxed, the bottom edge of the cabinet got hit by the mop leaving a 3 or 4 inch high band of wax.

An suggestions on how to prep for paint?
mineral spirits paint thinner
 
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This lovely (very) fits this thread.

I picked up some metal cabinets I woul like to refurbished and Paine. Catch is they were setting on an industrial floor that was waxed fairly regularly with black wax. Every time the floor was waxed, the bottom edge of the cabinet got hit by the mop leaving a 3 or 4 inch high band of wax.

An suggestions on how to prep for paint?
Fire!
 
This lovely (very) fits this thread.

I picked up some metal cabinets I woul like to refurbished and Paine. Catch is they were setting on an industrial floor that was waxed fairly regularly with black wax. Every time the floor was waxed, the bottom edge of the cabinet got hit by the mop leaving a 3 or 4 inch high band of wax.

A suggestions on how to prep for paint?
They make floor stripper to get old wax off floors. Ought to work, I’d think. Might be quicker to scrape it off with a razor blade though.
 
Or just hit it with a wheel. Might gook up the disc but who really cares, they are cheap enough. Wire wheel would not get gooked up like that and you could use the sanding disc after most of the stuff is off. Give you a nice clean finish as well.
 
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This lovely (very) fits this thread.

I picked up some metal cabinets I woul like to refurbished and Paine. Catch is they were setting on an industrial floor that was waxed fairly regularly with black wax. Every time the floor was waxed, the bottom edge of the cabinet got hit by the mop leaving a 3 or 4 inch high band of wax.

An suggestions on how to prep for paint?
It depends on how you want the final finish to look.
Chemical removers will leave a residue, even if taken down to the base metal.
Wire wheel will, somewhat, melt the buildup and leave a residue that will not accept paint easily.
The gold standard would be to remove the residue by sand blasting down to base metal.
 
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Or just hit it with a wheel. Might gook up the disc but who really cares, they are cheap enough. Wire wheel would not get gooked up like that and you could use the sanding disc after most of the stuff is off. Give you a nice clean finish as well.
Yeah, wire wheel or flap disc ought to do it.
 
The existing paint has a texture. I'd prefer not to strip the cabinets to bare metal. Attacking with abrasives will stand out.
 
Automotive bug and tar remover.
You probably have some forgotten on a shelf if you're like everyone I've ever met.
 
I was just worried about the size of the tank and having to move it around, I am just not as strong as I once was, not like I was ever "strong".

I am going to order that regulator.
Get smaller bottles. I personally like bigger bottles. Usually more economical to purchase and also to fill. Having said that if ever one day I'm not strong enough for the larger sizes I'd damn sure go to a smaller handier size. Not giving up the black magic of welding...
 
About moving a welder and a tank or two.

You have a fucking welder.
Harbor Freight has casters and wheels for cheap.

Get busy you lazy summabitch.
There is ZERO excuse.
 
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I have a cart, large enough for that welder, the cheapo chinese plasma cutter (works great) the bottle I have, 4-5 drawers, don't remember. One big enough for the helmet and a couple pair of gloves. I finally found a pair of med gloves, so now there is not 6' at the end of my fucking fingers. But you don't toss away the old ones that don't fit do you....no. Another drawer with vice grips of all kinds, other drawer has extra wire and other things along those lines. Top drawer is basically empty. Cart has a spot on the back for one bottle.

HUGE casters in the front, small wheels in the back....a reverse rake to it. Rolling over gravel the original front wheels did not do too well, got wider ones.

Come to think of it I have another cart in the barn....I forgot about that one....I think it is smaller. Need to dig that out, might move the plasma to it.
 
And I have long skinny fingers, great guitar fingers. They are all made to put hot dogs in.

You know how much it sucks wearing gloves that are two sizes too big. You can't pick up a fricking thing. Bump the trigger, I always do and the wire comes out, now you have a foot hanging out the end of your rod, nice when you are with a lady but sucks when you are welding. Ok just pick up the plyers to cut it off.....and I can't grab them. Off with the glove, tuck it under your arm, cut the wire, the glove falls on the floor....

I am in heaven now.
 
And I have long skinny fingers, great guitar fingers. They are all made to put hot dogs in.

You know how much it sucks wearing gloves that are two sizes too big. You can't pick up a fricking thing. Bump the trigger, I always do and the wire comes out, now you have a foot hanging out the end of your rod, nice when you are with a lady but sucks when you are welding. Ok just pick up the plyers to cut it off.....and I can't grab them. Off with the glove, tuck it under your arm, cut the wire, the glove falls on the floor....

I am in heaven now.
This is truth. I swear if I fell down with gloves on I would have to take them off to get back up. Welding gloves just don’t allow for much in the way of sizes or dexterity. I have gone to the same leather gloves I use for fencing, etc. work great and last longer that one would think.
 
This is truth. I swear if I fell down with gloves on I would have to take them off to get back up. Welding gloves just don’t allow for much in the way of sizes or dexterity. I have gone to the same leather gloves I use for fencing, etc. work great and last longer that one would think.
Not as thick but much easier to work in

 
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Not as thick but much easier to work in

They are not expensive as well.

If I had not just bought I would give them a go....might still for the backup pair.
 
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Not as thick but much easier to work in

Yep. I was just going to suggest some TIG gloves. The ones I’ve tried have been a little less heat resistant than the traditional type, but still fine for most welding.
 
They are not expensive as well.

If I had not just bought I would give them a go....might still for the backup pair.
Just do it. They are sensitive enough to actually do some small assembly work in. They aren't as thick, but they'll keep you from frying your hand when you pick up that piece you just welded without thinking.
 
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Just do it. They are sensitive enough to actually do some small assembly work in. They aren't as thick, but they'll keep you from frying your hand when you pick up that piece you just welded without thinking.

While we are talking about this stuff....

The wife bought this for me a few weeks ago. I came in with a dot on the top of my bald head. What happened to you. Well a welding spark must have hit me in the head. Is there anything you can do about that. Well if I am in a spot where it is really am getting hit I will put a wet towel over my head.

Oh that is silly, so she bought me this.

It has not been too hot so if I am getting hit I will put it on. I find myself using it more then I thought I would.

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While we are talking about this stuff....

The wife bought this for me a few weeks ago. I came in with a dot on the top of my bald head. What happened to you. Well a welding spark must have hit me in the head. Is there anything you can do about that. Well if I am in a spot where it is really am getting hit I will put a wet towel over my head.

Oh that is silly, so she bought me this.

It has not been too hot so if I am getting hit I will put it on. I find myself using it more then I thought I would.

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You need a welders cap. That giant monstrosity above is just gonna make you hot and piss you off. With the cap I pictured below it will protect the top of your head just fine. When you wear it you put the brim over the ear that will be closest to the material you are working on.
Welding-Cap-in-Brown-Nomex-front.jpg
 
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While we are talking about this stuff....

The wife bought this for me a few weeks ago. I came in with a dot on the top of my bald head. What happened to you. Well a welding spark must have hit me in the head. Is there anything you can do about that. Well if I am in a spot where it is really am getting hit I will put a wet towel over my head.

Oh that is silly, so she bought me this.

It has not been too hot so if I am getting hit I will put it on. I find myself using it more then I thought I would.

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Lol that's a necessity when doing overhead. Sounds like you got a good woman.
 
You need a welders cap. That giant monstrosity above is just gonna make you hot and piss you off. With the cap I pictured below it will protect the top of your head just fine. When you wear it you put the brim over the ear that will be closest to the material you are working on.
Welding-Cap-in-Brown-Nomex-front.jpg

I will look into this.

I have only used it this fall to now, so it has not been warm outside, perhaps 70's at the top. But I can see how that thing when it is hot would suck.

I am one of the few people that always wears hats anyway, and not ball caps, real "old man" hats. Currently wearing a "flat cap".

I am not sure why she did not go the hat route. She just handed it to me and said here. I find myself wearing it often, looks like this kind of cap would be just a thing I would put on my head and forget about it.

Like I said I am ALWAYS in some form of hat unless I am indoors.
 
I will look into this.

I have only used it this fall to now, so it has not been warm outside, perhaps 70's at the top. But I can see how that thing when it is hot would suck.

I am one of the few people that always wears hats anyway, and not ball caps, real "old man" hats. Currently wearing a "flat cap".

I am not sure why she did not go the hat route. She just handed it to me and said here. I find myself wearing it often, looks like this kind of cap would be just a thing I would put on my head and forget about it.

Like I said I am ALWAYS in some form of hat unless I am indoors.
Don't greet me wrong, the leather hood she bought you has a place. She probably just googled welding head protection and voila. But fitter or welder caps are awesome for welding.
 
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Earplugs help a lot too. Much better than hot BBs rolling around on your eardrum.
Story time:

Several years ago, grinding on same VW I have the "correct" gear on. Gloves, ears, safety glasses and I am just going to town. Feeling where I had just been looking for the ridge, and I decide I need to take just a tick off this one spot.

I felt the bit of metal hit my cheek then into my eye. Under the safety glasses and right into my eye. My god did that hurt like hell. Sat night naturally.

I tried washing it out, doing everything I could to make it stop. It felt like I had a fork stuck in my eyeball. I live with it all day Sunday, and Monday I go to the eye Dr.

First thing they do is put some numbing drops in my eye. OMG it felt so good having it gone. Dr came in looked and said yup I can see it right here. He said it was already several "layers" deep. I guess your eye is always making new layers to keep it fresh. He had to "dig" it out. I could see the world bending as he dug in my eyeball.

He came out with it and it was a little splinter, he said it was rusting fairly bad and it was a good thing I got in when I did, if it busted apart it would have been more of an issue. Gave me a quick look over to see if anything else was in there. Some eye drops and an eye patch and I was good to go.

I wear goggles now....ALWAYS. That one hurt to bad to go over with again.
 
If you weld, your are gonna get burned at some point. My arms are scarred up from dropping slag from vertical and overhead welding, mainly when I was younger an indestructible. But getting hot metal in your eye will make you think twice and about that. Next thing you know, all the other gear that you "don't need" suddenly becomes relevant.