Muzzle brake or suppressor for 300 WM?

Hi, new here!

I was looking at a 20 inch Savage Arms 110 Trail Hunter Lite in 300 WM, and for general use, was wondering if I should put a brake or a can on it.

This gun is meant to be a mobile sniper-ish role when LARPing with friends. As realistic as I can make it for training and fun.

I'm a relatively small dude, about 130 pounds, so I was considering the brake so I could shoot it more than five times without calling it quits.

But I'm being told that a suppressor would also reduce recoil, just not as much, in addition to signature reduction.

I'm leaning towards a suppressor, but am unsure how much recoil it'll hit me with compared to a brake; I shot the same rifle with a brake a while back and it felt lighter than your average 12 gauge. I have not had the chance to shoot a suppressed bolt action in a higher caliber than 6.5 Creedmoor, and don't want to blow cash on a can just to figure out it sucks and I wasted my cash.

If I went with a brake, how many baffles are recommended? If I went suppressor, what suppressor is recommended and why? I was looking at the Surefire RC2 since the 300 SPS has some bulging issue with WM, but I want y'alls thoughts. Thanks!
 
Do not buy the rc2. That is for ars and is not good at recoil or sound reduction on bolt guns.

The dead air nomad l, or Lti with a recoil x is the move. I have the 419 mounting system and the sidewinder and hellfire and the supressor is just as good at recoil but the sound suppression make shooting much more enjoyable

Bottom is a 18” 300 WM w/ nomad L

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If you don’t think you can handle a 300WM then why did you get one? Serious question.

I would get a good can like above as a large brake with a magnum caliber 20” from your face will get old fast also.
 
OK... it's not an x vs y decision

Brake will reduce recoil and depending on which one, significantly.

Suppressor will reduce report and depending on which one, significantly.

Here is the tricky part...some suppressors do a decent job at mitigating recoil. Finding the magic 1 might prove income dependent.

In the case you have provided I'd be considering an offering from TBAC with the brake out front.
 
Do not buy the rc2. That is for ars and is not good at recoil or sound reduction on bolt guns.

The dead air nomad l, or Lti with a recoil x is the move. I have the 419 mounting system and the sidewinder and hellfire and the supressor is just as good at recoil but the sound suppression make shooting much more enjoyable

Bottom is a 18” 300 WM w/ nomad L

View attachment 8729224
Did not know it was bad on bolt guns. The Dead Air Nomad L was actually on my list. Does the Recoil X brake still do anything even if under the can?
 
Did not know it was bad on bolt guns. The Dead Air Nomad L was actually on my list. Does the Recoil X brake still do anything even if under the can?

Attachs to the front of the can so you have a brake on front like the RR but way cheaper and maybe even better at recoils reduction.

Works awesome on my lightweight 300

 
If you don’t think you can handle a 300WM then why did you get one? Serious question.

I would get a good can like above as a large brake with a magnum caliber 20” from your face will get old
I shot one my buddy had with a brake and it had me hooked. I had one handed down to me from a family member and now that I'm learning more about the gun, how to shoot, doing my own research, I wanna keep the starter gun as a trainer before dumping big money into a professional custom build.

Besides TBAC, any recommended companies that would handle the pressure of WM?
 
That's ACTUALLY insane. Def looking into the Recoil X... seeing as it comes after the suppressor, it won't kick up a crap ton of dust around me, at least compared to the brake by itself, right?
Attachs to the front of the can so you have a brake on front like the RR but way cheaper and maybe even better at recoils reduction.

Works awesome on my lightweight 300

 
Another good choice would be the Abel Theorem with brake ( maybe Theorem-L with brake). Definitely the area 419 Hellfire system makes mounting the can simple and if you want to maybe use a muzzle break, just get the hellfire match, attaches to the same muzzle adapter.
 
I shot one my buddy had with a brake and it had me hooked. I had one handed down to me from a family member and now that I'm learning more about the gun, how to shoot, doing my own research, I wanna keep the starter gun as a trainer before dumping big money into a professional custom build.

Besides TBAC, any recommended companies that would handle the pressure of WM?

Well when you start having to feed a magnum you will find it is far from a good trainer for someone coming into the sport. The biggest mistake people make is getting a magnum as their first long range rifle but you already have it so shoot it.

Tons of suppressors can handle a 300WM. It’s nothing overly large. The Nomad LTI XC mentioned with a Recoil X brake on the front would be a good can and be a lot cheaper and easier to find than a TBAC.

 
Well when you start having to feed a magnum you will find it is far from a good trainer for someone coming into the sport. The biggest mistake people make is getting a magnum as their first long range rifle but you already have it so shoot it.

Tons of suppressors can handle a 300WM. It’s nothing overly large. The Nomad LTI XC mentioned with a Recoil X brake on the front would be a good can and be a lot cheaper and easier to find than a TBAC.

Yeah... prices are getting up there for ammo and such.

Nomad L is seeming more and more like the bet with that Recoil X. Their site says currently out of stock but I'll be checking them.

Dude seriously thank you all for the help! I'm still trying to understand suppressors and mounts and such, so this has been very informational for me.
 
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I really like the Omega 300 for my 300WM
It has a very effective brake on the end of the can.

My advice would be to dump that rifle and start with something better. Heavier, longer thicker barrel etc.

This is real. If you don’t have the rifle yet don’t get something bigger than 6.5 creed and a tikka over a savage.

If you already have it it’s another story
 
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This is real. If you don’t have the rifle yet don’t get something bigger than 6.5 creed and a tikka over a savage.

If you already have it it’s another story
I already got the Savage. It was handed down from family. Is their Elite Precision model worth it? Wife was debating getting it for me to replace this one and I could just slap the optic and brake or can over. What Tikka model would you recommend?

All this information is bringing me to another question.

Omega 300 vs Dead Air/CGS Hyperion (what recoil x has in stock atm) Recoil X vs Dead Air E brake.

Which one has the most recoil reduction, and is the concussion on it enough to disrupt the environment around me or my spotting partner?
 
I already got the Savage. It was handed down from family. Is their Elite Precision model worth it? Wife was debating getting it for me to replace this one and I could just slap the optic and brake or can over. What Tikka model would you recommend?

All this information is bringing me to another question.

Omega 300 vs Dead Air/CGS Hyperion (what recoil x has in stock atm) Recoil X vs Dead Air E brake.

Which one has the most recoil reduction, and is the concussion on it enough to disrupt the environment around me or my spotting partner?
Omega 300
 
Shooting 300WM is gonna disturb everyone and everything around you lol.
No suppressor is going to change that.
Tell the wife “thank you babe for wanting to buy me a gun”.
I’d go with nearly any other manufacturer other than Savage.
What's up with Savage? Still learning my way around this stuff.

Main point was to reduce recoil and reduction, and if I'm being honest, make the gun look a little better 😂 big scope, short barrel. Is it even worth going can at that point? Does it make any meaningful difference?
 
Thank you my man, will be going with this when funds are acquired 👍 I appreciate all the help!

Dude slow down. Now I see why you have a 20” 300WM. lol Slow down and do some research. Do not make a decision by what Recoil X has in stock as you can shoot it without that brake until in stock.
 
Shooting 300WM is gonna disturb everyone and everything around you lol.
No suppressor is going to change that.
Tell the wife “thank you babe for wanting to buy me a gun”.
I’d go with nearly any other manufacturer other than Savage.

Nah. My 18” 300 wm with nomad l is very enjoyable to be around

I already got the Savage. It was handed down from family. Is their Elite Precision model worth it? Wife was debating getting it for me to replace this one and I could just slap the optic and brake or can over. What Tikka model would you recommend?

All this information is bringing me to another question.

Omega 300 vs Dead Air/CGS Hyperion (what recoil x has in stock atm) Recoil X vs Dead Air E brake.

Which one has the most recoil reduction, and is the concussion on it enough to disrupt the environment around me or my spotting partner?

I have the dead air and Hyperion. Get the dead air. The hub is a better purchase. The e brake doesn’t reduce recoil near as much as the recoil x

Any tikka is better than the savage
 
Nah. My 18” 300 wm with nomad l is very enjoyable to be around



I have the dead air and Hyperion. Get the dead air. The hub is a better purchase. The e brake doesn’t reduce recoil near as much as the recoil x

Any tikka is better than the savage
Would you recommend the L or the LTI more?

What makes a Tikka better than a Savage? Is there some P320 type stuff with Savages lol
 
Would you recommend the L or the LTI more?

What makes a Tikka better than a Savage? Is there some P320 type stuff with Savages lol

The only difference is the Lti is titanium and much lighter.

The tikka is a better bolt and action for the future. Smoother more accurate and overall better.

The hub is how it mates to the gun. The dead air comes with a xeno or direct thread system to attach to the gun. Both are fine and you can buy something else later if you want (I run area 419 mounts)
 
The only difference is the Lti is titanium and much lighter.

The tikka is a better bolt and action for the future. Smoother more accurate and overall better.

The hub is how it mates to the gun. The dead air comes with a xeno or direct thread system to attach to the gun. Both are fine and you can buy something else later if you want (I run area 419 mounts)
No performance difference besides weight? 🤔

With their Xeno system I could have a device on the gun at all times then attach the can on top of that device? So a brake from them, then the can goes on top? Their site has a bunch of stuff on it.
 
No performance difference besides weight? 🤔

With their Xeno system I could have a device on the gun at all times then attach the can on top of that device? So a brake from them, then the can goes on top? Their site has a bunch of stuff on it.

I’m not aware of any performance difference between them - just weight. The nomad l is still on the best tested supressors by pewscience. ( I have a nomad l, nomax 33 and hyperion)

Yes on the xeno brake that the can mates to.
 
I was looking at a 20 inch Savage Arms 110 Trail Hunter Lite in 300 WM, and for general use, was wondering if I should put a brake or a can on it.

This gun is meant to be a mobile sniper-ish role when LARPing with friends. As realistic as I can make it for training and fun.
I hate to rain on your parade, but I think you're making a huge mistake thinking your rifle is in any way suitable for "general use," "training and fun." Putting a 20" .300 WM hunting rifle into the role you describe is, in my mind, like buying a Ford F350 dualie to learn to drive and cruise the beach road - but much less pleasant. The dualie won't beat the shit out of you.

You make no mention of hunting, which is the only reason I can see for such a rifle - which is made to carry, not shoot... at least not more than a couple of rounds at a time. With such a short barrel, I visualize half the powder appearing as a colossal fireball behind a bullet leaving at a velocity not much more than a .308 with a 28" barrel, accompanied by stupendous blast (even with a can). That's why a .223/5.56x45 round fired in an unsupressed 16" AR is so much more obnoxious than a 6.5CM or .308 with almost twice as much powder fired in a 24-28" barrel.

If you want a "general purpose," "fun" rifle, buy a Tikka T3X CTR (Compact Tactical Rifle) in 6.5 Creedmoor with 24" barrel and keep your Savage for when you want something to stomp you for whatever reason.
 
Muzzle brake is the answer to less recoil.
I use the PA M4-72 on most heavy recoil rifles.
On the 308s with hybrid cases, the 300 WM, and... here pictured the 300 RUM altered to feed 4.20" cartridges shooting 250 gr Atips at 2985 fps in 26" barrel, with 101 grs of powder, 9.0 lbs rifle without scope ...and you can shoot it comfortably from the prone. But it's noisy so good hearing protection is a must, but very easy on the shoulder.
 

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Dude slow down. Now I see why you have a 20” 300WM. lol Slow down and do some research. Do not make a decision by what Recoil X has in stock as you can shoot it without that brake until in stock.

Rob sometimes people don’t want help they are just looking for people to affirm their poor decisions

To OP
A 20” 300WM is a up
Close hunting round not a “Sniperish” weapon. The 300WM needs 24” barrel minimum to take advantage of the case size for good burn. It really does best with a 28-30” barrel to be the best it can be

Now if you want 20” for military type needs go 6.5 Creedmoor. It will be a 1200 yard capable weapon
This is based on decades of use and study on this subject not thinking this would be cool
 
Rob sometimes people don’t want help they are just looking for people to affirm their poor decisions

To OP
A 20” 300WM is a up
Close hunting round not a “Sniperish” weapon. The 300WM needs 24” barrel minimum to take advantage of the case size for good burn. It really does best with a 28-30” barrel to be the best it can be

Now if you want 20” for military type needs go 6.5 Creedmoor. It will be a 1200 yard capable weapon
This is based on decades of use and study on this subject not thinking this would be cool

My 18” WM shoots 6” groups at 1000 yards at least twice a month every month. You guys are just making up stuff about the performance based on conjecture not experience. I’ve even had the rifle out to a mile at Arena, GA.

This is based on a super high level of shooting and reloading but it’s not remotely what you said.

With that said - no, 300 wm short barrel is not the best place to start this adventure. And I mentioned that earlier

Proof: my rifle and target from roaming shot LA at 1100 yards

IMG_9092.jpeg
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215 hybrid at 2650 from this weekend - 4sd

IMG_9095.jpeg
 
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Would you recommend the L or the LTI more?

What makes a Tikka better than a Savage? Is there some P320 type stuff with Savages lol

LTI XC is going to be quieter, longer, heavier, little more expensive. The regular nomad XC with a recoilX should in theory reduce recoil more than the LTI XC with a recoil X. This is because there would be more gas pressure at the brake since there is less suppressor volume reducing said pressure.
 
LTI XC is going to be quieter, longer, heavier, little more expensive. The regular nomad XC with a recoilX should in theory reduce recoil more than the LTI XC with a recoil X. This is because there would be more gas pressure at the brake since there is less suppressor volume reducing said pressure.
That actually makes a lot of sense.

I'm looking at Xeno brake for the mount, the Nomad L, and the Recoil X. I may test out the E Brake if the X kicks up too much dirt around me but I'm going for the X. Thank you!
 
My 18” WM shoots 6” groups at 1000 yards at least twice a month every month. You guys are just making up stuff about the performance based on conjecture not experience. I’ve even had the rifle out to a mile at Arena, GA.

This is based on a super high level of shooting and reloading but it’s not remotely what you said.

With that said - no, 300 wm short barrel is not the best place to start this adventure. And I mentioned that earlier

Proof: my rifle and target from roaming shot LA at 1100 yards

View attachment 8729341View attachment 8729342

215 hybrid at 2650 from this weekend - 4sd

View attachment 8729348
My 300wn pushes the same bullet as yous over 300 fps faster which is why the longer barrel is where the 300wm belongs in. I bet given the choice between your 2650 and my 3000 fps you would pick mine to make mile hits with in variable winds. I have made hits at a mile with6mm arc but not my first choice

I wore out a ton of barrels in various calibers over the years. Many of them 300wm so this is not a guess on my part. I have shot at pretty high level of competition myself

Otherwise since he is LRPng he Could make the same hits as yours with far less blast to give his position away. Have a barrel that lasts longer and carry double the ammo. Just using 6.5 Creedmoor

As I said a 20” 300wm is not the best choice for his use. Plus that 20” Savage Hunting rifle likely wont let him get safely to 2650 with 215’s
 
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As I said a 20” 300wm is not the best choice for his use. Plus that 20” Savage Hunting rifle likely wont let him get safely to 2650 with 215’s

Agree with the general sentiment of what you're saying, 300 WM is a pretty poor option for "Sniper LARPing". But being as berger's old factory 215 ammo was near 2900 FPS in 26" barrel, i would expect a 20" salvage to be capable of 2650 without effort.
 
My 300wn pushes the same bullet as yous over 300 fps faster which is why the longer barrel is where the 300wm belongs in. I bet given the choice between your 2650 and my 3000 fps you would pick mine to make mile hits with in variable winds. I have made hits at a mile with6mm arc but not my first choice

I wore out a ton of barrels in various calibers over the years. Many of them 300wm so this is not a guess on my part. I have shot at pretty high level of competition myself

Otherwise since he is LRPng he Could make the same hits as yours with far less blast to give his position away. Have a barrel that lasts longer and carry double the ammo. Just using 6.5 Creedmoor

As I said a 20” 300wm is not the best choice for his use. Plus that 20” Savage Hunting rifle likely wont let him get safely to 2650 with 215’s

"A 20” 300WM is an up-close hunting round, not a “Sniperish” weapon. - That is not accurate and implies you can't easily shoot 1k with it, which you can and is a very far shot for 99% of people.

6.5 creed is definitely a beter beginner round but you're acting like a 20" 300 win mag cant shoot past 400 yards.

If i was building an ELR gun - okay, i would want more barrel but that's super niche style shooting that's not practical for anything - how do i know? I own a 28" barrel 7 PRC thats 20+ pounds (see pictures above)
 
Agree with the general sentiment of what you're saying, 300 WM is a pretty poor option for "Sniper LARPing". But being as berger's old factory 215 ammo was near 2900 FPS in 26" barrel, i would expect a 20" salvage to be capable of 2650 without effort.
I'm also unsure and pretty irritated by WTF sniper larping with friends means, but I'm going to choose to ignore it for my own mental health and well -being
 
I will make it simple
Using a 20” 300wm for recon type work is like driving finishing nails with a five pound sledge hammer. You can do it but there are better tools

Glad your happy with your 18” 300wm
 
I'm also unsure and pretty irritated by WTF sniper larping with friends means, but I'm going to choose to ignore it for my own mental health and well -being
This is what he said in his original post
“This gun is meant to be a mobile sniper-ish role when LARPing with friends. As realistic as I can make it for training and fun.”

Since I am old( went to first sniper school in 1984) I took that to mean what the SF guys called Reece back then. So I looked at this from sniper aspect. The old don’t been seen approach. Hence 300wm has too much blast in short barrel
 
I'm also unsure and pretty irritated by WTF sniper larping with friends means, but I'm going to choose to ignore it for my own mental health and well -being
Yeah, I know it's not the most professional thing, especially with a lot of pros and ELR shooters on the site. My apologies 😬 it's the closest thing I could reference.

I am not really going past 500 yards with it at this moment in time (quite literally a skill issue). My guys and I took what guns we have and are just getting the basics down. A bolt action for me, an old AR for another, PCCs and shotguns. We're trying to learn the systems and once we have enough basics down to really develop preferences, then we'll go out and get those newer systems.

I'm here to get info from guys who have done it so I know things like what to go get, but more importantly the WHY.

This gun is literally just what I have on hand, so I'm working with it for the moment. I do really appreciate everyone's answers and input though!