Winchester 300winmag Brass ?s

[Jig Stick]

I use winchester brass almost exclusively in my custom 300winmag. With brass being so hard to find at the moment, I would like to squeeze as many firings out of the brass as possible. I currently have 4 firings on it. I have been only neck sizing with a Lee collet die. So far, my cases have not appeared to grow much at all. Even with the firing pin in, I can still close the bolt on an empty case w/o any resistance. The belts look OK to me, but I have never seen a case seperation, or impending case head seperation in person.

Do you think I can get more shots out of this brass? Im shooting Berger 210 VLDs and 208 AMAX at approximately 2850 - 2900fps.

 

[NBly]

Yes, I think you can.

Here is a good video from AmmoSmith @ YT http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE0A5IsR1dA

I'm not sure if he's on SH but go through his videos and look for more info on this subject.

 

[milo 2.0]

The best thing to do would get a dental pick , and cut it to go into your case so you can try feel for it. A bent paper clip works, but it's harder to hang on to. You'll definetly feel it.
You're not fl sizing, so that's a plus, alot of people with belted mags see it after 3 firings, but every situation is different.
If you're gong to get it, it should show after firing the round, look for a line about 1'4" above the belt, it should be visable before it comes apart in your chamber, which you don't want to happen.
If you browse through past posts, you'll find a pic or two of what it looks like.

 

[Jig Stick]

At this point, If I do feel this groove with a pick...If I used my redding body die and pushed the shoulder back, would it reduce the thinning?

 

[NBly]

At this point, If I do feel this groove with a pick...If I used my redding body die and pushed the shoulder back, would it reduce the thinning?

No, I wouldn't think so. If you're really concerned sacrifice one of your cases and cut it open to inspect the case head area.

What I'll also say is while inspection of the case is good practice, pressure and bullet speed are directly related. In other words, get yourself a quality chronograph and keep your velocities within a reasonable range. If you're constantly running higher than your manuals chances are you are running at higher than normal pressures - whether you observe pressure signs or not.

 

[Jig Stick]

I ran the paperclip inside the case. It certainly feels smooth to me. I looked inside the cases with a flashlight and magnifying glass. I dont see anything. But I think I still may sacrifice a case and cut one open. I just dont want to risk blowing a case.

 

[NBly]

I ran the paperclip inside the case. It certainly feels smooth to me. I looked inside the cases with a flashlight and magnifying glass. I dont see anything. But I think I still may sacrifice a case and cut one open. I just dont want to risk blowing a case.

Can't hurt. If your primer pockets are still nice and tight that is also a good sign.

 

[milo 2.0]

At this point, If I do feel this groove with a pick...If I used my redding body die and pushed the shoulder back, would it reduce the thinning?

No, the exact opposite happens, you're working the brass. It will only expedite the process. Neck sizing doesn't crunch the case.

Find a case that you can feel it in, cut that one and have a looksie. Like i said, you'll see the line before you have total case failure.

 

[varmint slayer]

I have some Win brass that has 9 fires on it with the necks annealed at 6 firings. The primer pockets are getting a little loose but still usable without danger. No signs of case head separation and I run about the same velocity as you with the amax. Also I have FL sized these every time, just made sure I wasn't over sizing them and has worked fine so far.

So basically I say just shoot them and pay attention to primer pockets and watch for the shiny ring that tells you that a case head separation is coming.

 

[Weaselthis]

I have some Win brass that has 9 fires on it with the necks annealed at 6 firings. The primer pockets are getting a little loose but still usable without danger. No signs of case head separation and I run about the same velocity as you with the amax. Also I have FL sized these every time, just made sure I wasn't over sizing them and has worked fine so far.

So basically I say just shoot them and pay attention to primer pockets and watch for the shiny ring that tells you that a case head separation is coming.

+1^This.
I'm using Winnie 300WM brass for a 7mm wildcat, just necking it down to 7mm w/ a 7Rm neck die. 180 Berger @ 3000-3050. I anneal every other firing. I've got 7x on one batch and 8x on the other now. No ring yet, but the primer pockets on 11 of em last time were gone so I tossed em. You'll see the ring when it's time. Good luck. Go ahead and sacrifice one, it'll make you feel better and then you can concentrate on shootin some more!

 

[ArmyJerry]

So reading the logic here it would not be g\a good idea to use a RCBS X Die, just stick with a light FL sizing die and a collet size the nexks?

 

[jwp6114]

I have heard of a smith setting up 300wm chambers to head space off the shoulder... Anyone have experience with this and brass life?

 

[Aimsmall55]

I have heard of a smith setting up 300wm chambers to head space off the shoulder... Anyone have experience with this and brass life?

That's all I do until it is eventually necessary to fl size. I use a forester bump die with a .334 bushing and a 2/1000's shoulder bump . It extends brass life a good bit if you anneal every now and then.

 

[sakobob]

So reading the logic here it would not be g\a good idea to use a RCBS X Die, just stick with a light FL sizing die and a collet size the nexks?

yes thats correct ,just bump the shoulders and collet die .i'm on my 4th fire with win brass with this method and there is no sign of case stretch .
if you keep your pressure in check you my be able to just neck size them.

 

[spaniel]

I have 300WM brass up to 8 firings. Have not had to FL size yet, and only just discarded 1/100 for a thin head ring.

 

[Unknown]

I also have a 300, and have only used WIN cases. I neck size only, and anneal case necks every so often. My brass doesn't really get worked much because I never set the shoulder back. They expand to the chamber on the first firing, and I don't push the shoulder back after that. I retire the brass when the primer pockets show too little resistance to having a primer seated.