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Join me on my EPIC AR accuracy journey! From reloading to bullet hole @600yards! WITH PICS

Elf, I see the anti static bag under the rangemaster....lol I know what thats for.

To everyone who reloads their own ammo knows how potentially hazardous and a pain in the ass "Static Electricity" can be. The powder grains stick to everything and flies all around.
I am also pretty sure that if you get a good spark of static it would or could set off the powder in a very very bad way. Next would be the inaccuracy of electronic and balance beem scales.
So how do we help lesson the static? I have found a few things that help, it doesn't get rid of it totally but it greatly reduces most of it.

Bounce dryer sheets - I wipe everything down with it, reloading table, funnel, powder scale pan, ect.
Downy liquid fabric softener - mix just a little bit into a spray bottle with water and you can spray it on floor, carpet, ect.
Humidifier - Ive never tried this but I think it will work

Here where I live, Las Vegas I have a huge problem with static as its so damn dry here..no humidity. I'll try anything to get rid of it.
 
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Great thread, Elf, I think I'm going to need to get a few new instruments to help in my precision loading after reading through how you do all this. Right now I've just been using Wilson case gages to set up my sizing operation, but that leaves a lot to be desired in terms of precision when bumping the shoulder. I just recently got WFTs for 308 and 223 trimming....man, what a difference from my old Lyman manual trimmer! I'll be working up some loads tonight and hope to have a new submission (maybe two) for the 100 yard shootout tomorrow......thanks for posting all this up!
 
Thank you for the post.

Do you ever load progressive? What accuracy differences do you see?

With the .308 trimmer, do you need a second setup for a different .223 or can they adjust?
 
Just an FYI everyone... I still had one more thing to add to the OP... here it is so you don't need to look it up. I just didn't have time to add it last night... or should I say this morning.. LOL!

*******************************************************************

BTW, just to get on paper at 600yards so I wasn't wasting rounds I loaded this IPAD ballistics APP (before I hit the range) just to get an idea how much MOA elevation (minutes of angle) I needed to DOPE my scope to @ 600yards with my reloaded ammo #'s..... I started out @ 13 minutes of angle... The windage I played by ear out on the range. I just got this program FYI and I'm still learning all of the details (massively detailed APP),,, but it was close enough for my first group @ 600yards as in my picture shown above on the 5shot group#1! My actual MOA adjustment was 12.5moa on the second group! Not too darn bad knowing I'd hit paper before I even left my house & took a shot. The APP worked great for this 600yard range. There is a LOT to this IPAD app and it will take time for me to learn it all. The one thing I noticed with this APP is making sure your scope/sight height input # is correct (open up bolt of AR with empty magazine to hold back bolt and use calipers to measure from fire-pin to middle of scope) or ALL of your output #'s will be f#cked up! App is only as smart as the #'s you enter!

IMG_6511_zps46a31652.jpg


Still tweaking the #'s and learning how to use the APP, but it was close enough to get me on paper so I wasn't wasting ammo. Final MOA adjustment ended up being 12.5 MOA UP, with 1 MOA LEFT for the 2nd 5shot group if memory serves me correct. I'm still learning how to work the app... Work in progress.
IMG_6510_zps9d6b2632.jpg


Long range shooting with Ballistic: Advanced Edition for iPhone - YouTube
 
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Elf,

This post couldn't have come at a better time. I just decided to start reloading for my MWS and my first 500 rds of once fired LC brass should be here early next week along with my new Dillion swage tool. I could only find 178 gr A-Max so I will be starting there.

Thanks a TON!

Bikejunky
 
just one pc of brass and work that one pc of "starter brass" down until I get my desired headspace measurement. Before I lock in place with the allen screw (WHEN FIRST SETTING UP THE SIZING DIE) I'll try another pc of brass. But just as I stated in my OP when FIRST running once fired purchased brass you might need to run it through the sizing die MAYBE twice, sometimes three times as they have such ENORMOUS headspace measurements... That's a LOT to bump back in one shot!.... Once you get your sizing die locked in place, re-sizing brass fired out of YOUR RIFLE will usually only take one pass as in my case I'm only bumping back .004 from MY LMT's fired brass. This is just something you need to play around with, live and learn type of thing. Big trick is ALL ABOUT KEEPING A CONSISTANT RAM PREASURE = consistant headspace bump back. All presses will be different, but with my progressive LNL press I like to "slightly over-cam" the ram until it just "kisses bottom" and then STOP! lower the ram. This is all trial and error type stuff and I think I wasted maybe 7pcs of brass when I first started sizing brass! LOL! This could be completely different with a single stage. I've only worked with a progressive press.

Elf,

When you dial your sizing die down for set back to you use a fresh piece of brass on each try?...or do you squeeze a piece of brass, find its needs some more, dial down your die, and squeeze the same piece of brass again?
 
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No problem. I hope you enjoy it.

Reason why I produced the thread was to show you WHAT I DO..... NOT to show you what to do! KEEP THAT IN MIND! you still need to do your homework and read books before you start!


Elf,

This post couldn't have come at a better time. I just decided to start reloading for my MWS and my first 500 rds of once fired LC brass should be here early next week along with my new Dillion swage tool. I could only find 178 gr A-Max so I will be starting there.

Thanks a TON!

Bikejunky
 
The only time I'll use the "progressive" aspect of my press while RELOADING FOR RIFLE is sizing/decapping primers,,,,,, MAYBE seating primers...... I almost hate to even use the progressive aspect during seating primers because I've seen it dent the perfectly sized case mouth when it is ejected and the case mouth hits another pc of brass in the red bin. I'm to anal & a perfectionist to reload RIFLE AMMO fully progressive.. NEVER use the progressive aspect during seating bullets as I have seen the "jerky" nature of the wheel kick varget powder out of the brass!! Rifle for me needs to be perfect if you want good results. Still, it does make it faster.

But yes, if you wanted spray and pray type plinking ammo you could seriously kick out some rifle ammo if you wanted to.... or in a time of crisis end of the world type zombie shit! LOL :)

NOW PISTOL on a progressive is a MUST HAVE! I've done stupid amounts of pistol ammo.

Thank you for the post.

Do you ever load progressive? What accuracy differences do you see?

With the .308 trimmer, do you need a second setup for a different .223 or can they adjust?
 
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I have both .223 & .308 Wilson case gauges... Ok, thing about Wilson case gauges. They are great for a "quick check" and that's about it... They are great for .308 bolt actions, and SUCK ASS for 7.62x51 nato AR-10's due to ejector marks & beat up bases / ejector lip of base!!! LOL, seriously!! you get so many false readings (or at least I do) with a .308 Wilson case gauge with a SEMI-AUTO AR-10 because the base of the brass / ejector lip get so F#CKING beat up that the brass will not fit the Wilson case gauge anyway so why use it! About the only time I use my .308 Wilson case gauge is when my friend comes over to load for his bolt action .308 with perfectly ejected hand held baby'd brass....

NOW, with that being said.... .223 / 5.56 is totally different. The base / ejector lip of the .223/5.56 brass is so damn small that it damn near NEVER gets beat up like .308/7.62 out of an AR-10 & slides into the Wilson gauge like glass.... so hell, I use my Wilson case gauges with my .223/5.56 brass & AR-15's all of the time if I want to do a "quick check"... I'll still use my method as stated in the OP with the hornady OAL headspace gauge for .223/5.56 when I'm going for absolute accuracy... This way I know for DAMN sure what the bump back is and I'm not just guessing... knowing for sure = accuracy...... It can get old though when you have for say, 300pcs plus of AR-15 ammo to reload and then yes, the .223 Wilson case gauge is busted out of the box baby! LOL!!! Just another reason why I like to reload in 51 to 101 pcs of brass as I hate loading HUGE batches like 300plus pcs = PULL HAIR OUT OF HEAD! :)

THIS ONLY GOES FOR AR-10'S in my book... I've never seen this in a bolt action. Both of these pcs of brass are perfectly re-sized to 1.627 and will fire fine out of my LMT, but the one pcs of brass will NOT go in all of the way into the Wilson case gauge due to the beat up brass base / ejector lip. I've even tested it too where I'll wrap sandpaper around the base (and sand off the nicks / imperfections) of the beat up brass and it will slide into the Wilson case guage like glass = reason why I don't use Wilson case gauge when sizing for AR-10's..

pc of brass with 1.627 headspace measurement & false reading due to beat up base / ejector lip due to the harsh nature of a big caliber semi-auto (NOT all AR-10's will do this, but my LMT does)
IMG_6341_zps56c37b31.jpg


another pc of brass with the same headspace measurement 1.627 slides into Wilson gauge like glass because base is "not as beat up" with ejector marks and such.
IMG_6334_zpsb9d46a74.jpg




Great thread, Elf, I think I'm going to need to get a few new instruments to help in my precision loading after reading through how you do all this. Right now I've just been using Wilson case gages to set up my sizing operation, but that leaves a lot to be desired in terms of precision when bumping the shoulder. I just recently got WFTs for 308 and 223 trimming....man, what a difference from my old Lyman manual trimmer! I'll be working up some loads tonight and hope to have a new submission (maybe two) for the 100 yard shootout tomorrow......thanks for posting all this up!
 
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yes, the motherboard anti-static bag, for me that is, has damn near (not completely) eliminated all static from my chargemaster. I'll only really see static anymore if I start hitting like 200plus powder drops. Other than that, 51 to 101 pcs = no problems at all...... and that is all I use also... just the folded up mother board anti-static bag under the chargemaster... I'm sure a hard-drive anti-static bag would work just as fine.

BTW, it would take a HUGE amount of static sparks to ignite powder.. it damn near takes a hot ember / flame as in this thread (I thought the same thing when I first started reloading): The Electrical Ignition of Gunpowder


Elf, I see the anti static bag under the rangemaster....lol I know what thats for.

To everyone who reloads their own ammo knows how potentially hazardous and a pain in the ass "Static Electricity" can be. The powder grains stick to everything and flies all around.
I am also pretty sure that if you get a good spark of static it would or could set off the powder in a very very bad way. Next would be the inaccuracy of electronic and balance beem scales.
So how do we help lesson the static? I have found a few things that help, it doesn't get rid of it totally but it greatly reduces most of it.

Bounce dryer sheets - I wipe everything down with it, reloading table, funnel, powder scale pan, ect.
Downy liquid fabric softener - mix just a little bit into a spray bottle with water and you can spray it on floor, carpet, ect.
Humidifier - Ive never tried this but I think it will work

Here where I live, Las Vegas I have a huge problem with static as its so damn dry here..no humidity. I'll try anything to get rid of it.
 
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Is it weird that this makes me want to reload? I grew up with a Grandfather who was an avid re-loader. He always put me to work, and it always felt like work. I never understood what an art it was when I was young. I'm starting to see the light again.
 
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The thing about reloading is you either love it or hate it. There is no middle. I personally like it just as much as shooting my rifles just as long as I'm not reloading over 300pcs in one shot! LOL

Also.... You reload not to save money, but so you can shoot 4x times the amount of ammo for the same price which is much much more accurate. This is something you can only learn by doing it yourself as you will get addicted to the hobby and sport! It is damn near my fav hobby / sport short of snowboarding....




!
Is it weird that this makes me want to reload? I grew up with a Grandfather who was an avid re-loader. He always put me to work, and it always felt like work. I never understood what an art it was when I was young. I'm starting to see the light again.
 
Elfster,how many loads are you getting on your brass? I run a mega in 260 and i just loaded some remington brass for the 5 time and there starting to get nasty. I know every brand of brass is different and remington isnt the best but do you go until you see a couple primer pockets get loose and then toss the whole batch or go a different route. I also run a 308 gas gun with lake city but havent got but two loads on my first 100. Just wondering when to call it quits if you know what i mean. Great write up some people claim they got gas guns that shoot quarter inch groups all day when everyone here knows its a bunch of shittttt.
 
Good question on how many reloads you can get with your brass! It is really all up to you, I can not answer this question with a straight forward answer. I can only explain my experience below.

It really all depends on the cartridge,,,,, how hot you load your charge,,,, and how much you bump back your shoulders / work the brass...... The less you bump your shoulder / work the brass = the longer it will last.

As for me, I try NOT to over gas my semi-auto rifles. This might be different for a bolt action, but for me and my semi-autos = For the love of god why do some people think that going stupid HOT powder drop charges will produce better accuracy is just stupid in my opinion. I have found that in my 7.62x51 LMT it DOES NOT like any varget charges over 43grn, maybe 43.5 TOPS!. Anything over 43grains of varget OR super performance factory ammo out of my LMT = blown primer pockets!! If you get any blown primer pockets = STOP SHOOTING and start pulling those bullets!!!! Most times I'll powder drop charge for the yardage I think I'll shoot that day. Why use some stupid HOT 43.5 varget charge for 100yard bug hole groups, when my lower "PET LOAD" accuracy node of 40.5 varget will not only be more accurate, but also improve the life of my brass, be easier on my LMT MWS rifle, and most important save me money / varget!! Now, with that being said, if I'm shooting at 300yards plus or I'm producing hunting ammo, THEN i'll start dipping into the 42 to 43grains of powder.... Knowing what accuracy powder drop "node" your rifle likes to use is the never ending reloader quest..................... IT NEVER ENDS! NEVER, AS IN NEVER EVER... LOL! It really is all about testing your ammo = all part of the fun! This is where you simply need to shoot for 5shot groups with different powder charges, use the OCW test, or ladder test. Over a period of time, you will start to see a pattern of what powder charges your rifle likes to shoot, but DON'T expect to simply purchase a semi-auto rifle & find the perfect powder drop charge on your first trip to the range.... IT TAKES A LONGGGGGG TIME to figure it all out.

I have found that with .223 / 5.56 I'm getting about 5 to 6 until either my neck either cracks or I start to see the tell tail sign of case head separation.

Casehead separation is something to really keep an eye on & NOT to fuck with! and why you should ALWAYS make sure you're using eye protection! Keeping an eye on case head separation is VERY important. If you push your brass too hard and your brass blows due to case head separation it can be rather dangerous and will either blow up your bolt or even worse. Knock on wood, it has never happen to me.
Quick Tips: Incipent Head Separation - YouTube
Case head seperation - YouTube
PPS-43 7.62x25 kB/Case Head Separation - Raw Video - YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diVWPmvgk9U

As for .308 / 7.62x51 lake city....... lake city 7.62 is crazy awesome brass... it is stupid heavy duty and can take one hell of a beating. I have yet to have a neck crack on me with .308 / 7.62 brass and just to be honest with you on this question... I'm not sure.... I'm up to 6fires on some of my .308 / 7.62 brass & I have yet to trash this brass because to be honest with you it still looks good to me & I've just pulled another fresh batch of 1fired brass.... I'm still trying to decide if I want to keep firing this 6fired brass or just trash it. I just hate to trash it as it honestly doesn't have any signs of case head separation or cracked neck (then again I do not drop heavy powder drop charges for my semi-autos)... I always check my brass over, but I really make sure to check over my brass with a fine tooth comb when I start hitting 4fires plus..... looking for any signs of over pressure, case head separation, cracked necks, and loose primer pockets. Once in a blue moon I'll get a pc of 7.62 brass that is just totally beat up and when you really really really question a pc of brass = TRASH IT (the risk is not worth your health)... Once a pc of brass goes into my brass recycle bin IT NEVER COMES OUT, NEVER! IF IT IS IN THE BAD BRASS BIN, THEN IT IS IN THERE FOR A REASON!! (take your bad brass to the recycle center to get every single red cent dollar back into your pocket).

Also, many guys like to anneal to improve the life of their brass... I have yet to do this and will most likey never will.. I love to reload, but I don't think I would have the patience to anneal & at that point I would just trash it and move on. I think that would be the line in the sand for me in terms of time & money... Annealing is totally up to you! LOL, you can tell this guy really likes to anneal! Hahahaha, this is one hell of a set up he has here. Wow!

Annealing Workstation - YouTube




Elfster,how many loads are you getting on your brass? I run a mega in 260 and i just loaded some remington brass for the 5 time and there starting to get nasty. I know every brand of brass is different and remington isnt the best but do you go until you see a couple primer pockets get loose and then toss the whole batch or go a different route. I also run a 308 gas gun with lake city but havent got but two loads on my first 100. Just wondering when to call it quits if you know what i mean. Great write up some people claim they got gas guns that shoot quarter inch groups all day when everyone here knows its a bunch of shittttt.
 
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The only time I'll use the "progressive" aspect of my press while RELOADING FOR RIFLE is sizing/decapping primers,,,,,, MAYBE seating primers...... I almost hate to even use the progressive aspect during seating primers because I've seen it dent the perfectly sized case mouth when it is ejected and the case mouth hits another pc of brass in the red bin. I'm to anal & a perfectionist to reload RIFLE AMMO fully progressive.. NEVER use the progressive aspect during seating bullets as I have seen the "jerky" nature of the wheel kick varget powder out of the brass!! Rifle for me needs to be perfect if you want good results. Still, it does make it faster.

But yes, if you wanted spray and pray type plinking ammo you could seriously kick out some rifle ammo if you wanted to.... or in a time of crisis end of the world type zombie shit! LOL :)

NOW PISTOL on a progressive is a MUST HAVE! I've done stupid amounts of pistol ammo.

I too have the Hornady LNL. I bought it with the thought I might one day want to handload pistol ammo, BUT I DONT. With that said, I only load for 223 and 308 with my progressive, and about the only thing I do progressively is size and decap brass. As for priming brass, I have an RCBS hand primer...It just gives me a better feel than priming with the LNL. For all other parts of the reloading process, I use my LNL as a semi-single stage. I still get excellent ammo.
 
Elfster,the 260 brass has no split necks or signs of head seperation but the million dollar question is when to say when on scrapping it. Just like you i dont run high pressure loads,its not hard to turn that elevation knob a few more clicks if you ask me but to each there own. The funny thing is i tried to anneal after the fourth load on half of my brass and i didnt notice any difference. When i took a brand new piece of brass and seated a bullet it felt totally different then the stuff i just annealed which is supposed to bring the softness back to the brass so i said screw it nd i was done with it. I guess the main thing is just wait till the primer pockets loosen up just toss them. I to enjoy the reloading part, especially when you get those tiny groups and know its because of your hard work.!!!
 
LOL! I know, I've totally OCD! I just love this sport and reloading soooo much & it's soooo fun.

BTW everyone, I just took these pics and added them to the OP.... and the OP has been modified a little more.. It is totally done and I'm done f#cking around with it! LOL....

Anyway, this it is the actual brass / ammo that was loaded during the OP... LOOK AT THAT, that shoulder I bumped back to 1.627 during the reloading process is right back to where it should be & always is on my fired brass out of my LMT.......... 1.631 it's like clockwork.

IMG_6523_zps4a803465.jpg



Elfster, you have OCD, enjoyed this thread.
 
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This is seriously something I just cant answer for you. It is just too much of a judgement call without knowing all of the facts and having the brass in hand. This is just something you will need to figure out.


BTW, for those that do reload......... what was going through your mind when you fired your very first round of reloaded ammo? did you have a string attached to your trigger standing 30feet away?? Hahahahaha, totally kidding!!! I'll tell you what was going through my mind... OH SHIT, here we go! F#ck it, I'm doing this $hit! After 5rounds that thought was non-existent and reloading has been the most rewarding and fun thing to do as a hobby...

Elfster,the 260 brass has no split necks or signs of head seperation but the million dollar question is when to say when on scrapping it. Just like you i dont run high pressure loads,its not hard to turn that elevation knob a few more clicks if you ask me but to each there own. The funny thing is i tried to anneal after the fourth load on half of my brass and i didnt notice any difference. When i took a brand new piece of brass and seated a bullet it felt totally different then the stuff i just annealed which is supposed to bring the softness back to the brass so i said screw it nd i was done with it. I guess the main thing is just wait till the primer pockets loosen up just toss them. I to enjoy the reloading part, especially when you get those tiny groups and know its because of your hard work.!!!
 
This has been added to the OP. Figured I'd put it here just so you don't need to hunt it down.
**************************************************************************

This is just WHAT I DO.. not saying it is perfect & what you should do, but it has helps me out big time in terms of getting small ass groups as a recreational AR target shooter looking for high quality & cheap targets. One thing I hate doing is spending too much money on targets.

In my opinion, there is soooooooo much truth this statement. AIM SMALL, MISS SMALL when it comes to shooting for bug hole size 5shot groups.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbtA0TIyoI8

Yes, I know. It is kinda corny with the whole movie thing and all, but I've found that using the correct size target (aim small miss small) for the correct yardage you're shooting at (depending on you scope's max magnification), MAKES A HUGE IMPACT on your group size (well, for me it does). Yes, everyone does things differently, but this is just what I do especially as a recreational target shooter looking for inexpensive targets that are fast to make.

As for me & my LMT MWS with a vortex 4-16x50 scope, it is damn near 100% of the time @ 16x full power (for shooting groups between 100yards and beyond) unless I'm deer hunting, then it goes all the way back down to 4x as I'm hunting in Wisconsin woods and it is rare to shoot a deer over 75yards & it might be on the move. This is also where my RTS back up iron sights really come into play with my LMT in terms of deer hunting.... ANYWAY... I never really target shoot under 100yards unless it is with my rock river 5.56 with a red dot. Every scope / rifle combo has it's own purpose.

With that out of the way I really like shooting ROUND targets as they don't give a shit if my target is level or not.

With my 4-16x50 scope on the 16x setting, in my opinion a 1" circle @ 100yards is just about perfect. The 1" dot @ 100yards with my scope @ 16xpower is not too small that my crosshairs will cover it up, BUT is JUST BIG ENOUGH to make out the circle with my crosshairs knowing I'm dead center. I personally like to use a color (red, blaze orange, or blaze pink, and maybe black) on white paper so I can make out the perfect "4 pieces of pie" that my crosshairs cuts the round target into 1/4's (if that makes sense to you), this way I know I'm dead center nuts on 100% all of the time. IMO, it would really be hard to know for a fact if I'm dead center nuts on @ 100yards with the above example if my round target was a HUGE 8" in size round circle (OK, this is where you insert bitching and flaming by other bad ass know it all shooters)....

Now, with my vortex PST FFP 4-16x50 scope, in which I like to shoot 1" circles @ 100yards, then all you need to do is double the circle size for every 100yards. For example, if I like shooting 1" circles @ 100yards, then it would be 2" @ 200yards, 3" @ 300yards, 4" @ 400yards, 5" circle @ 500yards, 6" circle @ 600yards, blah blah blah.. You get the idea right???... NOW, if I'm testing my 3gun DPMS 3G1 AR rifle with a vortex 1-4 power scope set at the 4x power & I like using 1" circles @ 100yards with LMT's 16x scope, then 16power divided by 4power = 4 times 1" = 4" size target circle @ 100yards for my DPMS 3G1 with a 1-4 power scope on the 4x power setting! If 4" circle target for my 3G1 with a 4x max power scope is perfect @ 100yards, then it would be 8" @ 200yards... it really is just that simple...

Now, I HATE spending money on targets. I personally like to keep my targets for future reloading information & if I get some good groups on my target I'll actually write that reloading information right on the target for future inspection / reference. Because of this, I like to shoot really heavy duty paper. Really thick craft type paper.

With that said, THE $1 STORE IS YOUR FRIEND when it comes to making targets. I really like shooting white paper so I can see my little .223 / 5.56 bullet holes @ 300yards with my 60x spotting scope. If the paper was black, then you would never see these small holes in your spotting scope unless you're using stupid expensive shoot-n-see targets. The HUGE 2'x3' ultra thick white paper in the picture below costs me .50cents per... You can get a boat load of 1" circles on that huge 2'x3' pc of paper, or cut the paper up for smaller targets. All of the items in the picture below (other than the .50cent 2'x3' paper) costs $1!! Also, they do sell a 2'X3' BLACK COLORED 1/4" thick foam core cardboard that I'll use as a backer for my white 2'x3' targets @ 300yards so my bullet holes REALLY STAND OUT in my spotting scope. This black 2'x3' target backer board can be re-used numerous times!
IMG_6527_zps3cd849cb.jpg

IMG_6532_zps0f8439a3.jpg


This is the $3.75 dollar circle stencil I purchased from Jo-Ann fabrics & craft store. It has 1", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", and 4" circles! This damn near covers all possible target sizes I might need from 0yards up to damn near 500yards! Using the cheap markers I got at the $1 store, and I can make any size/color circle I want. Just a little tip, put the target circles ON THE GLOSSY SIDE OF THE PAPER as it will use much much less marker & is much faster & easier to spot with your spotting scope. The stencil also has 1/2" marks on the side if you want to find the dead center of a much larger 4" target (as in the example picture with 4" red circle with 1" black circle in the middle)... The staple gun I purchased at harbor freight on sale for $5!! and is really heavy duty!
IMG_6528_zps2050b52b.jpg


Making sure you put some real thought into the purpose of your AR rifle when picking your scope or red dot can make a HUGE DIFFERENCE. Every rifle has it's own purpose and making sure you don't waste good money on bad choices sucks ass obviously. This is where you insert bitching and flaming by others, BUT IMO, if you're going for a precision AR that will shoot bug hole groups at what ever yardage, then you better be rocking a minimum 14x scope. Red dots & 1-4power scopes are great and all, but I've found that they obviously have a quick target purpose only and you will not be happy with a red dot / 1-4power scope @ 100yards & beyond for shooting bug hole size groups. Red dots are great for fast target shooting, hog hunting, law enforcement, or on the field of battle (spray and pray type stuff).... I love my vortex viper PST FFP 4-16x50. Not only do I use it deer hunting on the 4x power, but it can stretch it's legs on the 600yard range at max 16xpower. It really is all about the purpose of your rifle.

I hope this helps! Send me a PM with any questions you might have.

My AR's. Your rifle and scope selection is really all about purpose. Make the right choice!!!!
IMG_5937_zps582723b3.jpg
 
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Elfster,

Fantastic information with a step-by-step presentation as good as I've seen it. Beautiful reloading workshop.
Thanks for the hard work and effort you put in to this and thanks for sharing it.
Couple of things: First, I just can't believe the few snarky comments. Kinda' proves the ol' Matthew 7:6 thing.
Second, outstanding information. I enjoy the detail. It does make you feel as though you were along for the whole ride.
Third, your approach to this, sharing the good, bad and ugly real world results gives you and your info
credibility. Who wants to see cherry-picked data? Or listen to: "My rifle can do this all day long when I reload."
Finally, great shootin'. 10 shots in 1.9" at 300 yards? Sub MOA at 600? Outstanding.
 
thank you bluto! I think it was kinda hard for some people to visualize the entire thread until it was done....

thank you for your kind words....

Im just starting another in depth thread here (after this, I'm done spewing my knowledge on this BS & should be done later tonight i'm thinking): http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...embly-cleaning-other-basic-info-ar-101-a.html


Elfster,

Fantastic information with a step-by-step presentation as good as I've seen it. Beautiful reloading workshop.
Thanks for the hard work and effort you put in to this and thanks for sharing it.
Couple of things: First, I just can't believe the few snarky comments. Kinda' proves the ol' Matthew 7:6 thing.
Second, outstanding information. I enjoy the detail. It does make you feel as though you were along for the whole ride.
Third, your approach to this, sharing the good, bad and ugly real world results gives you and your info
credibility. Who wants to see cherry-picked data? Or listen to: "My rifle can do this all day long when I reload."
Finally, great shootin'. 10 shots in 1.9" at 300 yards? Sub MOA at 600? Outstanding.
 
+1 on great thread. I've been reloading a few years and I love seeing the process and tools others use. Always something to learn!
 
My bad, was coming off a long day with a headache and did not see the rest, sorry.

Read man... Read! Its 10 shots at 300yards! Lol ! its like taking your group, add 200 more yards, add more mirage and wind, add 5more bullets, and making it a smaller MOA group size.

Trust me... I have bughole groups that measure down to .179moa out of a semi auto at 100yards


I hope you read better than you shoot ;) some people are just not happy unless they are an asshole. Go troll on AR-15
 
I need to reread this a couple times, especially on the shoulder bump. Thanks for sharing and taking your time to write this up. Excellent write up.
 
not a problem at all... it really is a lot of info to take in at once... i'm seriously unloading everything I know on this thread in terms of making my AR's the best they can be as a recreational precision shooter and I'm still learning tons of info from other guys like lowlight & much more experienced / knowledgeable guys on the hide than myself.... Feel free to send me a PM and I'll try my best to answer your questions.

Just to say this again, especially when it comes to "shoulder bump".... still do your homework above and beyond this thread... what I do, and what you should do is two different things. I'm just showing you what I do with my LMT & in no way am I saying you should follow this thread to the "T"....

I need to reread this a couple times, especially on the shoulder bump. Thanks for sharing and taking your time to write this up. Excellent write up.
 
Great thread as usual. I enjoyed watching your reloading process from beginning to rounds on-target at the range, then back to the bench for more labor.

You provided detailed explanations for what you were doing and why, with plenty of pics and video references that no manual could really demonstrate. You also pointed out several aspects of reloading where it was important to emphasize critical procedures, citing your personal mistakes and lessons learned that will help new reloaders avoid the same mistakes.

Reading the "distractions" with your dies on how to set them up is one example. Many of us have learned that reloading isn't something you just figure out by looking at the pictures on the box and winging it from there, especially when it comes to die set-up (can we say accordion-crumpled brass anyone?).

Thanks Elfster1234.
 
Really an excellent "How to" guide.

As it looks like you're starting with GI Lake City 7.62 machinegun brass I'd add the check for incipient case separation (you can get a set of probes from Home Depot in the tool section, or fabricate a probe with a bent paper clip) either before or after first sizing. You don't want to have to use a broken case extractor for a piece of brass fired from a nasty, worn-out M240 coax machinegun barrel.

I like to anneal cases on a Ken Light machine, first for uniform neck tension and second to extend case life (avoiding cracked necks).

Hand loading is tons cheaper than buying factory, plus you tailor your loads to the gun and conditions and targets you're shooting.

Nicely done. :)
 
Wow, thats actually a good point that i forgot to mention. Also information that i didnt know on the home depot probes at a good price im sure, ill check it out. Thanks once again.

Really an excellent "How to" guide.

As it looks like you're starting with GI Lake City 7.62 machinegun brass I'd add the check for incipient case separation (you can get a set of probes from Home Depot in the tool section, or fabricate a probe with a bent paper clip) either before or after first sizing. You don't want to have to use a broken case extractor for a piece of brass fired from a nasty, worn-out M240 coax machinegun barrel.

I like to anneal cases on a Ken Light machine, first for uniform neck tension and second to extend case life (avoiding cracked necks).

Hand loading is tons cheaper than buying factory, plus you tailor your loads to the gun and conditions and targets you're shooting.

Nicely done. :)
 
Im glad you enjoyed the thread. Im actually hitting the range tomorrow with my 5.56 rock river with 60grn vmax loads... Will see how she does.

Great thread as usual. I enjoyed watching your reloading process from beginning to rounds on-target at the range, then back to the bench for more labor.

You provided detailed explanations for what you were doing and why, with plenty of pics and video references that no manual could really demonstrate. You also pointed out several aspects of reloading where it was important to emphasize critical procedures, citing your personal mistakes and lessons learned that will help new reloaders avoid the same mistakes.

Reading the "distractions" with your dies on how to set them up is one example. Many of us have learned that reloading isn't something you just figure out by looking at the pictures on the box and winging it from there, especially when it comes to die set-up (can we say accordion-crumpled brass anyone?).

Thanks Elfster1234.
 
Excellent job, nice of you to take so much time to share your methods.

I'm APPLAUDING NOW
 
This is exactly what I've been looking for to get into reloading and testing for my ARs! Awesome Write Up SIR!
 
Great thread, really like how you separate your brass from the ssm. Will have to use that when I get my tumbler built. Lots of good information in this thread, keep it coming!
 
Just read this and I must say, we do a lost all this stuff the exact same way, except I don't use stainless media. Betting we came across a lot of it the same way, 30 years of hand loading . I thought I was the only one on the planet using a progressive press on match ammo, mine is a RCBS Pro 2000. I have found I can set a funnel in the port for a powder drop and when the case comes up it picks up the funnel, ready for s hand weighed charge.
 
I just got back from the 600yard range with some rather, actually really impressive results... will have the 5.56 accuracy journey up tonight im thinking.
 
Is it my computer that is causing none of the pictures to load. just get small x's.
 
Note to everyone, especially those with AR-15's..... the AR-15 5.56 accuracy journey as just been added right below the original post on page#1!! Some rather interesting #'s!!! LOL, one thing is for damn sure.... you better have a high bandwidth internet connection before you open page#1 !! LOL!
 
just posted the 5.56 AR-15 information right under the original post! take it easy my friend.

Great thread, really like how you separate your brass from the ssm. Will have to use that when I get my tumbler built. Lots of good information in this thread, keep it coming!