Gunsmithing Rem 700 "DIY" re-barrel- "Rem/age", or short-chamber?

[Wannashootit]

My son wants his 700 re-barreled for Xmas, and I'm determined to DIY after a couple of successful Savage assemblies.
I know this is a different animal, but this is I'm going to increase my amateur smithing knowledge base...

Trying to decide whether to go with a CBI "Remage", or a short-chambered match barrel with doing the finish reaming by hand.

Also, I've seen some simple "homemade" lug-lapping tools online and would appreciate any links to putting one together.

Need to change from small to standard boltface, should I get the bolt body from PTG? Sako extractor? Keep reading about tools needed for bolt disassembly- are they necessary?

Appreciate "pro's" and "cons" for each, including cost from those that have done it, or if there's a start-to-finish thread already here on this a link would be great.

Please...no "send it to a gunsmith". This is a DIY, father-to-son project.

Thanks for the help.

 

[ugsly]

You can order a short chamber and finish it by hand slowly. Lugs, you can lap them depending on how far out they are it may be quick or slow. Lap lugs before you finish the chamber & grab a go-guage. You'll need a way remove the stock barrel (some are a b*tch) and torq the new one on. Bolt handle if 1 piece you'll need someone to remove material off the back of the lugs to time it correctly. 2 piece bolt will need to be timed and soldered or tig welded on. Im not sure what your skill set is but yes it can be done & its not rocket science, having the right tools helps a lot.

Kc

 

[Wannashootit]

The PTG bolt body (replacement with the std. boltface) won't swap right out with the .380 (.223) bolt body that's on it now?

Remington 700 Short Action Bolt Body Only Pacific Tool & Gauge Short Action Remington 700 Bolt Body [] - $106.00 : Pacific Tool & Gauge, Inc. - Store Home, Redefining Quality in Manufacturing

I'm missing something, thanks.

 

[buffybuster]

I'm missing something, thanks.

The handle.... The bolt needs to be timed and the handle attached (via silver solder or tig welding).

 

[Wannashootit]

Shit...OK, get it now...duh...Mine are Savages, never really looked in detail at his 700 bolt.

So, it's a one piece from PTG (w/handle), or get the body and a handle like this REMINGTON 700 TACTICAL BOLT HANDLE | Brownells and weld it on with a jig and some heat paste.

I have a MIG (no TIG), so naah, can't make the weld as pretty as it needs to be. Guess I can MIG weld it, grind/polish and blue. Probably just sell the bolt body w/ handle in the classifieds here, to someone that's looking for a .223 bolt- and get the one piece from PTG.

 

[ugsly]

That would be your best bet to sell it and use funds to buy a PTG bolt if your changing bolt face size.

Kc

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

^ that would be the idea to go with...if you F up the timing, you may end up smacking the scope or having the handle not sit just right when the bolt is closed, or not having the lugs engaging fully. i know you didn't want to hear it may be worth sending it to a smith with experience doing it.

there's a whole bunch of folks here that does that if you choose to use the factory one, and a guy in alaska (accutig) that does them for like 40.00.

probably better off just getting the "already together" PTG body and handle combo 1 piece https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.co...=product_info&cPath=4_101_103&products_id=172 or 2 piece https://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.co...=product_info&cPath=4_101_104&products_id=170 (separate fee to add on your choice of handle, done by wyatt's outdoor)

cap it off with one of these EGW Oversized Bolt Knobs: Evolution Gun Works Inc.. and some loctite

if doing it, might as well go with a M16 extractor - some good reading sako extractor in the rem 700 bolt google "why sako extractor in rem 700" "why M16 extractor in rem 700", lots of other good reading.

there may be a few other things that going from .223 to .308 so you may actually be getting into a whole lotta work that just getting a .308 and warming the new rifle over may be less "stressing"...plus you'll have 2 sticks then, or even convert the .223 to 300 blackout

 

[rdinak]

send it to chad on the group buy and have a masterpiece when it returns. That's what my son and I both did.

 

[Wannashootit]

send it to chad on the group buy and have a masterpiece when it returns. That's what my son and I both did.

Link to this?

 

[rdinak]

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...2013-remington-m700-accurizing-group-buy.html

 

[fdkay]

If you've rebarreled savages, then you probably have the tools on hand to swap the barrel.
In that case, I would lean "rem-age" that way, you don't have to buy a finish reamer.
As far as bolts go, I believe that a completely assembled PTG one piece bolt MAY require further machining (I am, by no means positive of this)

Another option is the CEG bolt, but I have no experience with them.

You will definitely need the tool to disassemble the bolt, as it ie required to assemble the new one.

 

[ugsly]

I believe that a completely assembled PTG one piece bolt MAY require further machining (I am, by no means positive of this)

Yes it will need to be fitted. Material will need to be removed off the back of the lugs to properly time it with the action then address the headspace from there.

Kc

 

[Ring]

just buy the 1 piece....

 

[Ring]

and go rem-age, but you dont "need " to go CBI, 4 other company make "rem-age" barrels...

 

[Ring]

Yes it will need to be fitted. Material will need to be removed off the back of the lugs to properly time it with the action then address the headspace from there.

Kc

no... if doing a rem-age, and using a PTG 1 piece, all you need to do is drop in and headspace

when i did mine, i sent the action to Dan over at Darkeagle Custom, Inc.
Trued receiver lugs, face of receiver – cleaned gunk out of threads and chased with a tap, faced nut, and cut notch in receiver to lock recoil lug
it was 75$ at the time i had it done

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...finished-my-rem-age-700-260-blacknitride.html

 

[ugsly]

no... if doing a rem-age, and using a PTG 1 piece, all you need to do is drop in and headspace

Ring, did he just remove all the material from the internal lugs to time the bolt for the proper amount of cam?

Kc

 

[Ring]

wasnt any need, i checked it before i sent it off, all he did was Trued receiver lugs, send it back, then i nitrided all of it.. its smooth as glass

 

[Wannashootit]

Just when I think I'm following...

I get that lugs on a new one-piece or bolt body might be cut "proud" and that on a replacement bolt, could need to have material removed to properly headspace.

Why would any material need to be removed from the lugs when the barrel (either, a short-chambered one, or a "Remage") hasn't been headspaced yet?

Ring,

I'm with ya. I've looked around, and there's no savings $$ in a short-chambered barrel (and really, why would there be?)- so for the cost of the barrel nut compared to cost of a smith to final cut the threads to headspace it's a no-brainer for me.

Judging by the cloverleafs in your thread, CBI's barrels are more accurate than I can shoot- so methinks I'm going that route (and my son wants .260... prolly outshoot my 7-08 too )

 

[ugsly]

A new PTG bolt will need to be fit/timed so your taking max advantage of the caming surface on the action & bolt, then address the head space. The chances of a new bolt dropping in and the fit/timing being perfect would be like getting hit by lighting twice in a row. Maybe Im just wrong though, take it for what its worth.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szy4HBg3q80

Kc

 

[Ring]

mine

and the rub mark on the cam

 

[ugsly]

 

[Aeon1]

mine

and the rub mark on the cam

I'd say you got lucky as they don't always work out like yours did. To tell people just because yours worked you should just do it may cause someone to get disappointed real quick when they go to fit their new bolt and it won't close.

 

[Ring]

Question, you say that in order to time the bolt you would need to remove metal from the rear of the lugs correct...
but if you did that you would then be lengthening the distance from the rear of the lug to the back of the bolt handle with the cam s therefore you would be increasing the distance away from the cam

That dont sound helpful



Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

[ugsly]

Question, you say that in order to time the bolt you would need to remove metal from the rear of the lugs correct...
but if you did that you would then be lengthening the distance from the rear of the lug to the back of the bolt handle with the cam s therefore you would be increasing the distance away from the cam

That dont sound helpful

Ring, Im not here to get in a pissing match. I have fit 4 of these 1 piece bolts in the last couple months to actions I have blueprinted. When I first go to fit the bolt it will get close to closing or it will close with about .002 clearence between the front of the bolt handle and the action. I take measurments from there and take my cuts in the lathe to leave .010 between the bolt handle and the action. After cerakote I have a .007-.008 gap between the two and Im still taking full advantage of the cam. If this is wrong please let me know.

Thanks Ring,
Kc

 

[Ring]

not trying to argue.. just trying to make sense of it... and look at it logically
the best leverage of the cam is to have the front of the bolt handle as close as you can to the rear of the receiver.
the more metal you take off, the farther you will move the cam's away from each other..
you have some "play" that you can move back and the cams will still hit and work, but past that point, the bolt is scrap.

am i wrong on any of that?

 

[ugsly]

Correct, you have a small window on a 1 piece bolt that you can fit it. If you remove to much then your screwed, or make it a 2 piece bolt.

Kc