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Remington 700 5R .308 milspec HORRIBLE ACCURACY!!!!!

T

tacsniper0888

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Jul 21, 2012
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Hey guys. I just bought a brand new remington 700 5R in .308. I shot 30 rounds through it to break it in using the shoot 1/clean method for 5 rounds then shoot 3/clean for five 3 shot strings then shoot 5/clean for two 5 shot strings. It took about five rounds to get on paper and zeroed and from there shot two groups. I immediately replaced the X-Mark Pro trigger as soon as I bought it with a timney 510 set at 2-2.5lbs. I'm running a PRI steel one piece base with 20moa torqued to 20in-lbs and a millet LRS in steel v-tac rings torqued to 30in-lbs with the cross bolts torqued to 50in-lbs! I'm shooting federal gold medal match ammo in 175 grain that is marked 7.62-51 instead of .308 which is the exact same ammo as lake city XM-118LR. I'm shooting from sandbags in the prone position with a zero value wind. The two groups I shot are 3 shot groups that run 2MOA AT 100 YARDS!!!! I have read where guys on here are shooting .2-.5moa with this same gun ammo setup! Did I receive a bad one that needs to go back to remington? I have heard they have been having quality issues or do I just need to shoot it more to see if it closes up? It has 45-50 rounds down the tube. I had a remington 700 SPS Tactical in .308 several years ago that I done nothing to except take the X-Mark Pro trigger down to about 2.5lbs and left it in there as well as the cheap hogue stock and just had a basic luepold vx-3 3.5-10/40 with duplex reticle that I was shooting 1964 heads tamp lake city 7.62-51 168gr BTHP Match ammo though that shot a 5 shot .75-1moa group at 100 yards all day every day off sandbags with a zero value wind!!! Can someone please give me some helpful info??? I have over $2,000 in this rig plus ammo that my 20 year old ruger m77 in .280rem will outshoot!!! The two groups on the bottom of the target are my actual groups. The others were getting it zeroed. The one on lower left was first group then lower right was next group. Thanks guys!
 

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Yes, what did you torque it to? How many foulers did you have through the barrel after doing that nonsense break in? Have you checked torque on everything else? Tried a different scope? Shooter?

It's not spraying a 6" group which is a good sign. You also have to keep in mind that while these are good barrels, they are not high end barrels that are hand lapped. It's not uncommon for these factory barrels to need 100+ rounds to smooth up. On a 308 running 100-200 rounds is nothing as far as barrel life so I typically run a bunch of the cheapest M80 ball I can get down the tube before I pass judgement. Often time that's all it takes.

Forget about ridiculous break in methods with cleaning, the best break in is rounds going down the tube.
 
You have only shot one type of ammo so far? The 7.62 fgmm is not the same as the .308fgmm. Get some other ammo, try fgmm or black hills.

Everybody wants to blame the gun when it doesn't shoot .2. Remember, it's not a custom gun. I'm sure it can shoot better than 1moa if you find what it likes and practice wih it.
 
Try 168 Black hills or 168 gold metal. I've seen a few 5R's that don't like 175's. TM
 
Ditto on checking reassembly/torque values/scope mounting/etc. and running some different ammo through it. I'm getting .4-.6 with my all stock 5R using Black Hills 175's, but that doesn't mean your gun will like BH. Gotta find what your gun likes.
 
you have a few things to look at here. First is you...get a bipod and use it. How's your position are you behind the gun good, are you following through and getting good trigger control? Next is ammo, try different ammo...my 5r is picky about some ammo...next your scope...u might check it on another gun to make sure it's working correctly...next is take ur gun apart and check that there is no debris between the stock and the barrel...even a small speck can cause what's happening...

The 5r is not an out of the box .5 moa gun its a 1 moa gun...that's not to say some are not, but it is a factory gun. You will prob need to have it bedded...
 
While I'm sure they don't all shoot the same I have owned a half dozen or more 5r's and every one of them was a half minute gun with good ammo.
 
I once had a VTR that wouldn't shoot for shit no matter what load I tried, my own , or factory match. I'm talking like 2 or 3 " groups at 100 yards. I got so pissed off I just gave it to my farm hand with a few 165 game kings I loaded up and said Good Luck ( deer hunting). Well a few weeks later he asked if he could zero it. I said sure. I promise this is true... He put 5 shots inside of a quarter. I was so confused... WTF!!
Later I came to the conclusion that it just had to be shot enough times to get it pinging good. So then I gave him my old faithful Ruger M77 .280 :)
 
redneckbmxer24 said:
Yes, what did you torque it to? How many foulers did you have through the barrel after doing that nonsense break in? Have you checked torque on everything else? Tried a different scope? Shooter?

It's not spraying a 6" group which is a good sign. You also have to keep in mind that while these are good barrels, they are not high end barrels that are hand lapped. It's not uncommon for these factory barrels to need 100+ rounds to smooth up. On a 308 running 100-200 rounds is nothing as far as barrel life so I typically run a bunch of the cheapest M80 ball I can get down the tube before I pass judgement. Often time that's all it takes.

Forget about ridiculous break in methods with cleaning, the best break in is rounds going down the tube.
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redneck is right,... you probably haven't seasoned that factory barrel with enough copper to reach an equilibrium as you're cleaning it all the time. Next time you want to break in a barrel, just start shooting it, no cleaning after 1, 3, or 5 shot BS,... it's a waste of time. Try shooting 100 rounds through it and see if it shoots better. Plus, it might not like the ammo you're running. After you've thrown 100+ rounds through it, try working up a load with some 175 SMK's, 43.0gr or varget, and a quality primer - this a good starter load. Work up from there. If groups are what you're after, you might try using a higher power scope than a 10x thereby holding a tighter POA will mean a tighter POI. Overall, I don't think the targets you're showing are too awful for a rifle cleaned too frequently, under-powered optics, and factory ammo,... Give it a chance.

Ry
 
30 in-lbs is high for ring caps too (15-18 should suffice), hope you didn't do any damage to the tube...
 
Okay this going to be a long one. First off. Thanks guys for the great info. The ring cap value I imputed may be incorrect. I went by the wheeler guide included with my fat wrench for wet(oiled) torque. The action screws were also torqued to 50 or 60in-lbs, whatever wheeler recommended for a rough service rifle torque as I am pretty rough on things in the field and this is going to be a long range deer hunting rig and be riding in on my back on four wheeler and such. As far as scope being underpowered not sure where that came from unless you're mistaking it for the melt TRS? I'm shooting the lrs(6-25/56 with 35mm tube 140moa vertical/horizontal adjustment range). I was told the 7.62 fgmm and the .308 fgmm were the same also that they were the same as XM-118LR. Not going for absolute group size but I would like it to be at least 1moa or better as I'm going to try and stretch it to 1,000 yards and I hope it likes this ammo as I bought a case of it(200 rounds) as I was told it was generally the best performing off the shelf ammo out of this gun. Atlas BT-10 is on its way. What other factory match loads would be a good choice other than what I'm running and what you all have previously mentioned? At aimsmall55 I LOVE my 20+year old ruger! Light, accurate, and never let me down...or left me hungry! ;) lol. Any other suggestions guys? Everything is greatly appreciated!!! I'm going to go back over all the torque values this mining before work and try to squeeze in another hour or so behind the gun before work. How many rounds would anyone suggest shooting before cleaning? I ran my dry bore snake down the tube twice after I got done shooting it yesterday before I put it back in the case. Thanks guys.
 
Here is a pic of her guys. I'm in love with her other than the poor initial accuracy.
 

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After5-600 rds of fgmm, bh, and handloads encompassing4 different bullets,3 different powders, and 2 brands of match primers my 5 r was a solid 1.25" shooter. These are not the holy grail of production rifles, the barrels are of no higher quality then the dick's special sps. My smith has had several of these 5r come through his shop with bore centerlines visibly off center. Shooting of sandbags will be the most repeatable setup, bipod hop and inconsistent loading will be more of a factor then sandbags. Recheck torque, try a new scope off a proven set up, try a different shooter.
 
Thanks 6brshooter. Keep the suggestions and info coming guys. Help a newbie out!
 
tacsniper0888 said:
How many rounds would anyone suggest shooting before cleaning? I ran my dry bore snake down the tube twice after I got done shooting it yesterday before I put it back in the case. Thanks guys.
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'til it starts throwing rounds or loses accuracy. You haven't allowed it to reach equilibrium, so that might be 100+,... Don't even boresnake it unless you've inadvertently dropped the muzzle in the dirt, or had dirty ammo, etc. in the chamber/barrel. If you must clean it, use a good CARBON cleaner with a nylon brush, not something that is going to take out the COPPER and see how it shoots after a few fouling rounds - in my experience, it will return to what it was doing for another 100+ rounds. Reserve the use of a copper cleaner for when you aren't returning to accuracy after using the carbon cleaner - this could be several hundred rounds(!) At which point, you'll clean it with a copper cleaner and have to put about 20 rounds down the tube to reach the copper equilibrium I'm talking about and it'll start shooting bugholes again. Unless you're using really old surplus ammo, todays powders are not corrosive and copper is your friend, so don't worry about your barrel,... let it be. I know it seems counter-intuitive, but cleaning is often overdone and hurts accuracy,... especially the use of copper cleaners.

From your last post, I can surmise that you don't reload and are restricted to use what you can find at an ammo supplier. In that case, try some different ammo once you've sent a bunch of the stuff it doesn't seem to like down the tube i.e. reaching copper equilibrium in the barrel. While Fed Gold is certainly a good brand of ammo, and they try to keep the tolerances tight from batch to batch, it doesn't mean your rifle will like the batch you purchased. Guys who shoot .22LR competitively will try all kinds of different ammo and batches of ammo in an effort to find the ONE batch their rifle likes as they can't reload the rimfire cases,... Only THEN will they buy a truck-load of it.

If you're ever going to start reloading, the .308-Win is the perfect starter caliber - tons of components, and time-tested recipes to utilize. Again, 175-SMK's over 43.0gr of Varget is a great start. Pick up one of the many reloading kits available from a reputable manufacturer (Redding, Hornady, RCBS, Lee,...etc.), a set of good dies, some bullets, primers, and powder and go for it,... You'll REALLY see how accurate it can be as you can now tune the load to your rifle.

Ry
 
Mine shoots .5 moa all day long and 1moa on a bad day. Mind you, I use handloads as factory ammo is a waste of money considering the geiups I get with it. Sierra smk 175gr projectiles are what that rifle loves to shoot as well. Im not knocking you one but but just wanna share my experiences also, I didnt change any mechanical parts on the rifle its all factory internally.

My recommendation is keep it stock and learn what it likes to shoot then slowly make it your own with bedding or a stock upgrade or trigger upgrades and whatnot. That will make your experience alot better.
 
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Mine didn't shoot very consistently, then I took it apart cleaned everything up with alcohol, set the action back in, loosely put the screws in, tapped it on the bench muzzle up, then torqued the front then the rear screws 65inlbs, it then shot about 1/3 min, but wasn't consistent, would have a few 1/2-3/4 groups in there. Had it bedded, its been consistently 1/4-1/3 MOA depending on the load since. Anything outside of te group (5 shot) I know about. It was great. Took it out if the factory stock that was bedded and into an AI Chassis... Same thing. Shoots great. Loves 175's, 185's ( the best) and 190's. love that rifle. Have over 3k rounds through it now. Got alot more life left!
 
blurry6 said:
'til it starts throwing rounds or loses accuracy. You haven't allowed it to reach equilibrium, so that might be 100+,... Don't even boresnake it unless you've inadvertently dropped the muzzle in the dirt, or had dirty ammo, etc. in the chamber/barrel. If you must clean it, use a good CARBON cleaner with a nylon brush, not something that is going to take out the COPPER and see how it shoots after a few fouling rounds - in my experience, it will return to what it was doing for another 100+ rounds. Reserve the use of a copper cleaner for when you aren't returning to accuracy after using the carbon cleaner - this could be several hundred rounds(!) At which point, you'll clean it with a copper cleaner and have to put about 20 rounds down the tube to reach the copper equilibrium I'm talking about and it'll start shooting bugholes again. Unless you're using really old surplus ammo, todays powders are not corrosive and copper is your friend, so don't worry about your barrel,... let it be. I know it seems counter-intuitive, but cleaning is often overdone and hurts accuracy,... especially the use of copper cleaners.

From your last post, I can surmise that you don't reload and are restricted to use what you can find at an ammo supplier. In that case, try some different ammo once you've sent a bunch of the stuff it doesn't seem to like down the tube i.e. reaching copper equilibrium in the barrel. While Fed Gold is certainly a good brand of ammo, and they try to keep the tolerances tight from batch to batch, it doesn't mean your rifle will like the batch you purchased. Guys who shoot .22LR competitively will try all kinds of different ammo and batches of ammo in an effort to find the ONE batch their rifle likes as they can't reload the rimfire cases,... Only THEN will they buy a truck-load of it.

If you're ever going to start reloading, the .308-Win is the perfect starter caliber - tons of components, and time-tested recipes to utilize. Again, 175-SMK's over 43.0gr of Varget is a great start. Pick up one of the many reloading kits available from a reputable manufacturer (Redding, Hornady, RCBS, Lee,...etc.), a set of good dies, some bullets, primers, and powder and go for it,... You'll REALLY see how accurate it can be as you can now tune the load to your rifle.

Ry
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Thanks blurry6! And hey keep the load recipes coming as yes I do have the capability to hand load. I have an rcbs rock chucker and standard rcbs full length die set. Not the competition micrometer seating die...yet! Lol. Although the reason I purchased the fgmm is all my reloading equipment is in my parents house where me and my father reload together and he has inadvertently agreed to my mothers whole house remodel request....oh the joys of retirement and the things you do for love!!!! Ha ha ha. I think he is now regretting the undertaking he has taken on as well I know I am! I do however still have a friend that can load me whatever I want using my components to my specifications so shoot me some good recipes boys and I'll get to cooking!!! Lol. I have a s**t gob of .30cal 190gr. SMK's, 175's(I think), and 168gr. Hornsby national match BTHP and quite a bit of nosler accubond and ballistic tip bullets. Probably 300-400 maybe 500 SMK'S and probably the same in hornady BTHP bullets. Also have several hundred cases of 1964 headstamp lake city match brass from the old .308 sps tactical I had! I highly regret getting rid of that gun! Never got the chance to try it beyond 200 and with a true long range type scope. Just the old luepy vx-3 deer hunters pride and joy 3.5-10/40 duplex. Sigh, what a shame. Calling for sleet here in northwest Tennessee today so may spend the day working up some loads with my buddy since I'm off work today with no sick time :( jammed my right big toe pretty bad this weekend while deer hunting. Opening weekend too. Sucks. Anyways thanks for the info guys and keep it coming.
 
My 5R is very good with 47.5gr of 2000MR and 175SMK or 178 Amax. My gun does not like the bullet touching the lands, so stay with the OAL of 2.81" or around there. Another load is with 43.3gr of R15. My gun hated Varget and the 178Amax combination until I found correct OAL. The 175SMK is very easy to shoot and not picky about powders or OAL. This would be my first choice in this gun. Mine also does well with the 168SMK, 168 Amax, and the 190 SMK.
 
I don't mean to burst your bubble but I think you're going to be very disappointed if you expect that scope to ride around on a four wheeler and then make LR hits on game. You owe it to the animal you're shooting to use quality gear if you're going to be poking at them beyond reasonable distances.
 
My 5r hated any and all 175-178 gr bullets, also hated varget. First 308 of many i owned that those components wouldn't yield something respectable. It ended up liking 43.3 or 43.7 gr H4895 and 168 smk. That rifle is now rebarreled with a bartlien, i had a hard time living with a 1100 dollar rifle+bedding with a 1200 dollar scope on it shoot1.25" moa. Especially considering that i had a savage 5r in a hs that was 800.00 with a 600 dollar bushnell that would put 4-5 different handloads and factory in 1/2 moa.
 
When I had the original barrel on mine, it was routinely well below .5 at 100. It also would need 50-75 rounds after cleaning before it settled into that groove, where it remained for about 250-300 rounds before opening back up.

Pard's still got the factory tube on his 5R.....it's same or slightly better than my brux-tubed rig at 100, but group size doesn't change on that one from 100 to 200....it does on his. ;)
 
On my Remington, before I knew anything about long range precision, I would thoroughly clean the barrel after every range trip. I never understood why it wouldn't shoot worth a damn. After I got on the hide, and took some tips from the pros, I stopped cleaning and it started shooting better. After about 500 rounds I again thoroughly cleaned it. Again accuracy went to hell. It took me roughly 30 round before it began to group again. With my AI, I haven't done any cleaning to it other that run a bore snake through after a range trip. I have stopped doing that and seeing if the bore snake is changing my cold bore shot.

Also, as other have suggested, buy several different types of "Match" ammo. When I got my AI I bought about $200 worth on ammo before I went to the range. I discovered it likes the Black Hills the best, whereas FGMM 308 was my go to load for previous rifles.

I have used the 7.62 GMM, and it hasn't shot well in any of my rifles, including the AI. I actually shot the 7.62 GMM and the 308 GMM side by side and the 308 shot much better. Another user advised the the 7.62 has a sealant around the neck, and that seating the bullets slightly deeper breaks the seal, at which time they became more consistent. I have not attempted this. Just know the adjusting the seating depth on any round will affect pressure.

Retourque everything to spec. Try several different types of match ammo. Although my 700 would shoot the 175's, it really loved the 168's. Particularly the FGMM 168.
 
My 5R loves 42 grains of Varget with the bullets just shy of mag length. I would warm up with a dry fire string and take your time when shooting for score. Let the barrel get some rounds in it and if possible, try a higher power scope. My 5R shoots .3 5 shot groups with 175 grain SMK's.
 
Diver160651 said:
Not sure why this is first. Off a bench, as many ranges are, bags when used properly can produce more consistent harmonics and support better than a bipod.


Jt

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i can tell you based on my experience, if you have a bipod and load the rifle on it correctly, accuracy will get better. in fact when i go to alpine in dallas, i have a choice to use a bipod or a sandbag, i choose a bipod every time. you cant manage recoil off sandbags like you can with a bipod which will increase your accuracy.

as far as 5R accuracy, i had about 1.5 moa with mine as a factory rifle on a regular basis untill changed stock to a mcmillin, changed trigger to a timney, and bedded it, which resulted in .75-1moa on a reg basis.
 
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Night Eagle said:
i can tell you based on my experience, if you have a bipod and load the rifle on it correctly, accuracy will get better. in fact when i go to alpine in dallas, i have a choice to use a bipod or a sandbag, i choose a bipod every time. you cant manage recoil off sandbags like you can with a bipod which will increase your accuracy.

as far as 5R accuracy, i had about 1.5 moa with mine as a factory rifle on a regular basis untill changed stock to a mcmillin, changed trigger to a timney, and bedded it, which resulted in .75-1moa on a reg basis.
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Agreed.. I use a bipod on mine and use a sandbag on the back of the stock to stabilize the rifle. Then I just line up my crosshairs and lean into it to take out the slack. Finally, I gently squeeze that trigger and send the round. When I switched to a bag on the back of the stock amd stayed with the bipod in front, my groups instantly got better.
 
Thanks guys. Also what is wrong with the millet? I was told it's the equivalent or better than the Bushnell elite line. Bushnell owns millet now. I was under the impression it was one of the better choices under a $1,000. Nightforce atacR is next on the list but finances are tight and income tax is spoken for already. Any ideas on a similar powered scope setup with similar magnification and objective for under $1,000? And also with the 168's how do they perform at distance? I went with the 175's because they are a little more forgiving in the wind as I'm not the best at reading wind yet. How much additional velocity is gained by using the 168's over the 175's? Is the benefit worth the cost? Thanks guys!
 
tacsniper0888 said:
Thanks guys. Also what is wrong with the millet? I was told it's the equivalent or better than the Bushnell elite line. Bushnell owns millet now. I was under the impression it was one of the better choices under a $1,000. Nightforce atacR is next on the list but finances are tight and income tax is spoken for already. Any ideas on a similar powered scope setup with similar magnification and objective for under $1,000? And also with the 168's how do they perform at distance? I went with the 175's because they are a little more forgiving in the wind as I'm not the best at reading wind yet. How much additional velocity is gained by using the 168's over the 175's? Is the benefit worth the cost? Thanks guys!
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Millet is a lower end optic, but attractively priced for the features. My 5R has had the same Bushnell Elite Tactical 10x40 since I bought it. Ive shot awesome with it since new and havent changed anything as not to rock the boat. I believe a Nightforce is a waste of alot of money, I hope the guys here dont bash me on that but its my opinion. I just acquired a vortex viper pst 6-24x50 FFP Illuminated and am very thrilled with the optic and warranty it comes with as well.. best part of all I used the point from my credit card to purchase it, the only rewson I went with that calibur of an optic.

As far as the 175s go vs 168s.. 175gr smks go further and stay flatter in flight especially out to 1000yds. Price is a dollar more per 100 and my reasoning is go with the better projectile the rifling was designed to perform the best with and shoot the 175s.

Hope this helps buddy.. good luck.
 
tacsniper0888,

I had a similar problem with a Rem 700 VS. We bedded it and target crowned the barrel. It took a gun shooting in the 1.5" range to one shooting in the .300's and .400's. Try that if the other suggestions don't work for you. Sometimes the simple stuff is all you need to make your rifle a "shooter".

Wes
 
Question to the Op. DO you reload? As in your own equipment becuase if not you might want to start. The factory loads I know shoot good are the 168 FGMM SMK stuff. The 175 stuff I could never get to shoot real good. Its why I only shoot 175 SMK's from my own reloads. So its why I say have your own reloading equipment and not have to worry about going to your friends house to reload.
 
The timney is wider than the X-mark. Check to make sure no part of the trigger or mechanism is making contact with the stock or bottom metal. I had to remove material from my 5R stock when I installed a timney.
 
Ok thanks guys. What would be a good recommended scope under a $1,000? Also will my full length rcbs die set be sufficient or should I purchase a micrometer competition seating die? And yes I do reload but right now my parents house is tore apart in the middle of a whole house remodel so that's why I'm having my buddy load my stuff with my components. He's an FFL and specializes in custom loads and custom loads for people and works loads up for their guns for a small fee.
 
My 5r was a pretty consistent .5 moa gun right out of the box.
The barrel was easy to clean up as well.
I had a Millet TRS 4-16 that worked pretty well, but honestly, I would buy a Falcon Menace (I have one) before another TRS.

If you are on a budget, get a 12x SS or a weaver 3-10x grandslam tactical from Midway.
If you have a budget closer to 1000, you have numerous, quality options available for between 800-1000 dollars.
Look to Weaver tactical 3-15, Vortex PST, Bushnell Elite Tactical or Sightron.
 
Can someone please elaborate on the sighttron scopes please? I have heard of them but know nothing about them. I like vortex's but am in love with the large tube and large objective on my millet for the extra light transmission for low light shots although I've always said the glass leaves something to be improved upon! But what do you expect from a $500 in it's category?! Will the millet suffice for a long range deer hunting scope till I can do better? It will be in a foam padded hard case as it rides in and out on four wheeler or slung across my back!
 
I have a 5R that gave me the same accuracy fits that you are describing. When the barrel was breaking in (with a much less rigorus cleaining program than you used) it would only group with 155SMK handloads (44.5 grns Varget with a COL of 2.815). Those 5 round groups were just ragged wholes at 100 yards.

As I gained confidence in the rifle I started loading 168 grain bullets (HPBTs and AMAXs). My first 500 yard F-Class match, the 168 AMAX's got me regular 193/200 scores.

Your initial groups aren't bad, just not great. Give the rifle some time to break in. Find out what it likes to shoot best. Shoot the hell out of it!

If all of that doesn't work, I will give you $50 for it! :)

Good luck,

Guns
 
So many stock rifles shooting .5s , 4s , 3s and even 2s .... got to wonder if GAP will be out of business by Xmas.

Just kidding. :)

Seriously though, what do you guys consider "consistent .5 MOA"?

If I remember correctly there were only a handful of rifles/shooters that could do it: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ard-bolt-action-6groups-30round-shootout.html

I am not picking on anyone in particular - I just don't understand why every other thread is watered down with completely unreasonable expectations.

For a mass produced rifle barrel - I believe sub-2MOA is good, 1MOA +/-.25 is lucky. When you start hearing .5 and bellow, especially in non-specialized caliber (BRs, PPCs, etc) - one has to question credibility of such claims, no?
 
moboost said:
So many stock rifles shooting .5s , 4s , 3s and even 2s .... got to wonder if GAP will be out of business by Xmas.

Just kidding. :)

Seriously though, what do you guys consider "consistent .5 MOA"?

If I remember correctly there were only a handful of rifles/shooters that could do it: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ard-bolt-action-6groups-30round-shootout.html

I am not picking on anyone in particular - I just don't understand why every other thread is watered down with completely unreasonable expectations.

For a mass produced rifle barrel - I believe sub-2MOA is good, 1MOA +/-.25 is lucky. When you start hearing .5 and bellow, especially in non-specialized caliber (BRs, PPCs, etc) - one has to question credibility of such claims, no?
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A 100yd shot with a .308 is boring with a good rifle. And the 5r milspec by remington is a damn good rifle and .5moa at 100yds is what mine and many others has been shooting all day long!
 
Just me but i'd ditch that LRS... had one for shits and giggles on a .308 and it went to shit in 52 rounds on a .308.
 
Flea21 said:
A 100yd shot with a .308 is boring with a good rifle. And the 5r milspec by remington is a damn good rifle and .5moa at 100yds is what mine and many others has been shooting all day long!
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depends on the # of rounds fired per group. I have shot 3 round groups that measured .25". Five round groups measure about .6" ten round groups can measure a inch or more.

heres a 13 shot shot group from a few weeks ago. It would have been pretty decent without the flyer.

 
Flea21 said:
A 100yd shot with a .308 is boring with a good rifle. And the 5r milspec by remington is a damn good rifle and .5moa at 100yds is what mine and many others has been shooting all day long!
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Well, grab a piece of paper and boring-like put six 5-round groups on it.....

Oh wait, let me guess, you shoot 5,000 rounds a year, but somehow you just don't have 30 rounds loaded up ... or the range is too far ... or, my favorite, you don't have to prove anything to anyone since you know what YOUR rifle does?

Sorry, man, just because 5, 10 or 100 people say something on internet without any proof - it doesn't make it true.
 
Mine took some effort, and some rounds down range before it started shooting good. Always bipod and rear bag. I know I'm lucky to have one that shoots that good. Fwiw, the best loads so far have been 44.3 RE15 with 175 in win case, 45.0 Varget with 175 in lapua or Nosler case, 45.0 N150, same, 47.8 MR2000, same, and best load is 185 Berger LRBT and 45.0 Varget loaded at 2.950 COAL. All 175's mag length (2.810) and all with wolf LR or Tula LRM primers. Anything else brings it out to .5-.75MOA. Factory FGMM 175 is .75MOA, and an old lot of M118LR ( 44.3 load) was 1/3 MOA. Never tried 168's. I did try 155 Sierra 2156's... Lucky to get 1MOA with the best load tried. The 175's seemed to do best at 2700 fps and 185's at 2650 fps. +\- 25 fps. 190's were next best at .5 MOA with 42.5 of Varget or RE15, and same charge of MR2000. Around 2600 +/- 25 fps.

I used a NF F1 mil scope and it was tough to shoot tight groups with that, trick was shoot one round, then put it inside one if the mildots... Tightened right up. Then went to a MOAR, was easier and more consistent, and next will be an ATACR MOAR. See how that goes.

Try cleaning the mating surfaces, seating the action to the rear and torquing to 65 in lbs, getting on the bipod as was suggested. It takes time to learn the technique, but as was stated, generally more precise. At least to me and a few others too. if that fails, bed it, try again. With Varget my rifle got better the closer to max I got. 45.0 is right at book max, and safe in mine. Work up to that etc... Etc...
 
dumb question of the day (not sure if its already been asked cuz i'm to lazy to ready through all these posts) but are your rings tight and torqued?
 
Hahaha.. Im not trying to stir the pot. All im saying is 100yd shot with a good rifle can get boring and you also have to factor in the shooter as well.. bash me all you want but most "flyers"can be easily attached to the shooters technique and not the rifle.

Im not a great shooter by any stretch but I trust my 5r alot and im comfortable with it and have had great success accordingly.
 
Flea21 said:
Hahaha.. Im not trying to stir the pot. All im saying is 100yd shot with a good rifle can get boring and you also have to factor in the shooter as well.. bash me all you want but most "flyers"can be easily attached to the shooters technique and not the rifle.

Im not a great shooter by any stretch but I trust my 5r alot and im comfortable with it and have had great success accordingly.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm asking ... what do you consider a .5 MOA rifle.
A rifle that shot .5 MOA group this one time? Shoots consistent 3 round group? Or most 3 round groups? 5 round group minus any flyers? 10 round group?
 
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