Got a question for those using Seekins Rings on their RPR. Will the 1.26” Seekins/Vortex rings clear 50mm objective with a continuous top rail (like Seekins SP3R or Gen 1 handguard)? Or will I need the 1.40/1.46 height mount or rings?
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Create a channel Learn moreThe 556 RPRs have a tendency towards cratered and blown primers. The thought is this is because the bolt is designed for 308 based cartridges that use large rifle primers, while 223/556 brass uses a small rifle primer. Ruger changed the size of the bolt face cutout but left everything else, including the firing pin and hole in the bolt face the same. The bolt doesn't adequately support the primer during firing and so the primer cup will either flow into the space around the firing pin or will give way completely resulting in a blown primer. Guys have had this occur with standard pressure factory ammo suggesting it's not a chamber pressure issue.
The solution is to have a gunsmith machine the bolt to accept a bushing surrounding the end of the firing pin. This will provide enough support to the primer to prevent cratering and blown primers at normal pressure levels.
LRI offers the service for $165. I think there may be other smiths who will do it for around $150 or less.
https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/gunsmithing-services-bushing-m700-striker-pin-hole
It is also something that is commonly done to rifles chambered in short action 38 based cartridges like 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5x47, etc. when switching to brass that uses small rifle primers, for the same reason. So, it's something you'll want to do, but it's not an uncommon problem and it's something seen in several types of factory rifles, Remington, Bergara, and Howa included.
Got a question for those using Seekins Rings on their RPR. Will the 1.26” Seekins/Vortex rings clear 50mm objective with a continuous top rail (like Seekins SP3R or Gen 1 handguard)? Or will I need the 1.40/1.46 height mount or rings?
Yea I did some measuring. If I spend the money on Leupold alum caps I would be good but decided to play it safe with the 1.40’sYou will probably need the higher rings, especially if you want to use a scope cap or sun shade on the objective.
Guys,
Here you go. I have done quite a few of the RPR bolts and Ruger Ranch Rifle bolts.
Thanks for checking them out.
Paul
www.boltfluting.com
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The 556 RPRs have a tendency towards cratered and blown primers. The thought is this is because the bolt is designed for 308 based cartridges that use large rifle primers, while 223/556 brass uses a small rifle primer. Ruger changed the size of the bolt face cutout but left everything else, including the firing pin and hole in the bolt face the same. The bolt doesn't adequately support the primer during firing and so the primer cup will either flow into the space around the firing pin or will give way completely resulting in a blown primer. Guys have had this occur with standard pressure factory ammo suggesting it's not a chamber pressure issue.
The solution is to have a gunsmith machine the bolt to accept a bushing surrounding the end of the firing pin. This will provide enough support to the primer to prevent cratering and blown primers at normal pressure levels.
LRI offers the service for $165. I think there may be other smiths who will do it for around $150 or less.
https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/gunsmithing-services-bushing-m700-striker-pin-hole
It is also something that is commonly done to rifles chambered in short action 38 based cartridges like 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5x47, etc. when switching to brass that uses small rifle primers, for the same reason. So, it's something you'll want to do, but it's not an uncommon problem and it's something seen in several types of factory rifles, Remington, Bergara, and Howa included.
Those look awesome! What's your turnaround time on bolts?
Anyone have experience shooting the RPR and the Tikka T3x Tac? Thoughts? Looking at purchasing a pre-built chassis rifle. Currently comparing the Howa APC, Remington Model 700 PCR, Ruger RPR and Tikka T3x. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated!
The gen 3 is compatible with a rifle length buffer or the standard AR 15 buffer tune that is already on the rifle. I recommend bedding up to the rifle length tubeI want to add a Magpul PRS Gen 2 to my Ruger Precision. Can I use the AR15 version or do I need the AR10. If both work , which is the preferred?
Im only about 5'10".If you’re a shorter guy your going to want to find a gen 2. If given a choice the rifle tube mounting is best. I had to use the carbine attachment on my gen 3 and wack off part of it just to get length of pull down to 14”.
I’m 6’ and had to shorten the Gen 3Im only about 5'10".
So your recommendation is to use the Gen 2 Magpul PRS?I’m 6’ and had to shorten the Gen 3
I’m 6’ and I had to extend the buttpad. It’s all about how gangily your arms are.So your recommendation is to use the Gen 2 Magpul PRS?
I’m 6’ and I had to extend the buttpad. It’s all about how gangily your arms are.
Anyone running a Luth MBA1 stock?
Very nice!Need some pic's in here
Chad
I'll be going to PVA for any replacement barrels.
Mine was really tight the first couple times. Try taping it with the plastic end of a screw driver or piece of woodSo I got my RPR 6.5 yesterday. I was taking it out of the box and had it on the table. My wife closed and locked the stock while the bolt was not installed. Not really thinking much of it. Thought I could just push the stock release button. The button won't depress. The book instructions state to turn the tab end counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The tab won't more and the button won't depress. I had to walk away from it for a few mins. Any ideas?
So I got my RPR 6.5 yesterday. I was taking it out of the box and had it on the table. My wife closed and locked the stock while the bolt was not installed. Not really thinking much of it. Thought I could just push the stock release button. The button won't depress. The book instructions state to turn the tab end counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The tab won't more and the button won't depress. I had to walk away from it for a few mins. Any ideas?
I have one and really like it. it seems to like hornady 105's, and really shines in the wind.Anyone have a 6mm Creedmoor RPR yet?
I just started the 110 SMK's at 3000 and they are even flatter and add 200 yards before they transition to subsonic from the 105's.I have one and really like it. it seems to like hornady 105's, and really shines in the wind.
Mine spun right offRPR Shooters... Any tips to removing this factory muzzle break? (Gen 2)
I need to remove the factory break so I can thread on the TBAC break for my Ultra7. I've currently tried breaking loose the lock nut with the wrench flats, but can't budge the thing. No barrel vise here at home.
Suggestions?
Hornady 140 ELD matchI’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?
To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.
Thanks,
Cuz
I also have and shoot a 6.5 CM RPR. mine really likes everything that i load for it but in factory ammo, it seems to like the hornady match 140 ELD-M. where as the 120 A-MAX didn't fare as well. that's just my rifle, but everyone i know who has a 6.5 CM they all seem to shoot the 140 ELD-M factory well. hope that helps.I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?
To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.
Thanks,
Cuz