+1
140 ELD's do really well and few other shooters I've talked to who also have 6.5CM RPR report the same.
+1
140 ELD's do really well and few other shooters I've talked to who also have 6.5CM RPR report the same.
Ended up using my Gunsmithing hammer and it worked on the first hit. Thanks
That 10 round group I posted above was rounds 12 through 22 on the rifle. It’s been shooting like that since zeroing it.
My 6.5 really likes the Hornady 140gr Black ammo. (Lucky because I'm a cheap-ass) The guy I bought it from said the 120s didn't shoot well. He included a couple boxes of 120s and I kept groups under an inch with my mediocre abilities.
It will get better. Your zero may change too.
I shot a match with mine today, I found it a bit of pain to single load rds. Does anyone know of a single shot follower made for these.
Use AICS pattern mags and not the SR25 mags it ships with
Turns out it was as simple as that. Finally got it to break loose by sticked a long screw driver through the break and leveraging off that. Thanks!
I made a single load adapter for my mags. I made it from a piece of PVC pipe (1 inch I think). You insert it on top of the magazine follower. The only problem is that you have to remove it to load more than one round in the mag. Others have ground off the back raised corner of the mag follower at a 45 degree angle to allow the bolt to close on an empty mag. I don't have pictures of the grinding option but do have pics of the PVC pipe adapter.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...ics-short-action-308-winchester-polymer-black
These mags (and all AICS mags) don’t lock the bolt to the rear and give you longer COAL over the SR Pmags.
These mags (and all AICS mags) don’t lock the bolt to the rear and give you longer COAL over the SR Pmags.
I just made one with 1" PVC, works perfectly, thanks for the idea.
^ Also, I’ve ground the mag follower on all my mags (even though I never use them). It works well to get rid of the bolt stop, but not well to single feed as the round doesn’t sit low and at the right angle to be picked up by the bolt, and kind of jams against the feed ramps a lot
Ripped the barrel of the RPR today and sent it out for a chop job. 17” 6.5cm RPR here we come!
We want range reports and pictures. I’m very interested in what speeds you get with factory match ammo...
Another vote for Hornady 140 factory loads in the RPR 6.5. Finally a Ruger that's a consistent shooter! After giving them many decades to get it right, glad I didn't pass this one up.
Wow, that ammo is much cheaper than the ELD Match ammo. I’ll pick up some of that to put through it first, and then switch to the ELD. Thanks.
American Gunner shoots 1” or less in my RPR. Perfect for plinking
What would be the ideal 6mm Creedmoor barrel twist for 105, 108, 110, 115gr bullets.
That's great, because I just order a case of 200 of them...
Has anyone broke a firing pin back on their RPR? My first one lasted about 2300 rounds (and about as many dry fires). I replaced it and the second lasted about 600. Has anyone seen this?
Bang
Bang
@BANG...ping Mine is still going strong at ~1300, only firing pin issue is ~40% failure to fire on ‘80s German surplus, not enough juice in the firing pin spring and no fix that I can find.
I got to show off my RPR project - work in progress.
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Caliber: .243
Scope: Burris Elliminator III
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Caliber: .243
Scope: Burris Elliminator III
Just short of 3,200 rounds on my .308 RPR (maybe about 1000 dry fires) since new and have had no functional issues of any kind. I'm really satisfied with my RPR.
Both times mine broke was during dry fire.
Bang
Bang
Happy Labor Day guys! Hope everyone is having a good holiday weekend, hopefully gettin gets some range time. Stretched the 6.5 out to 1570 yards Saturday. Furthest I’ve shot to date. Fun stuff. 
Do you have pictures of the broken pin? I’d be curious to see where it broke. Did you replace with an aftermarket or a Ruger?
Not sure if there is a better place to post this, thought I would start here. Just bought a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor, purchased Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 EBR-2C MRAD Riflescope and looking for recommendations for mounting rings for this for shooting out to 1000/1200Yds. New to long range Percision and this will need to go from 100-1200 Yds. Thanks in advance for your help
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You’ll want high rings at the least. X-high probably better. Don’t get crappy cheap ones. You have a 20MOA base on the rifle, just an FYI.
ARC, Nightforce ultralights, Badger. I have a set of Warnes but my next set will be ARC M10s. Some people like Seekins/vortex as well. I’d go with something lower priced for the PST personally. Stay away from vertically split rings.
ARC, Nightforce ultralights, Badger. I have a set of Warnes but my next set will be ARC M10s. Some people like Seekins/vortex as well. I’d go with something lower priced for the PST personally. Stay away from vertically split rings.
Here’s my little RPR. It’s chambered in 308. It’s one of the integrally suppressed versions from Machine Gun Tours/Witt Machine and Tool. Finally got the glass for it. I’m running a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 EBR-2C Reticle (MOA) with Vortex Precision Matched rings. I did minor upgrades to the bolt. Replaced the bolt shroud with the Titanium shroud, replace the bolt handle and knob with the titanium version, and added a Catalyst Arms Mag release extension. Have not put too many rounds through it so I’m not sure if I will replace the trigger or not. So far I like the trigger.
Which height did you do on the rings? Looking to shoot 1000-1500 yds and need to make sure I will have enough adjusment in the MilRad version I just ordered.
Thank you
Are any of you as big of a goofball as me and have the plastic tool that separates the firing pin and cocking piece pop off? I have been unable to get tool back in and probably made it worse but rotating the assembly and not sure how it was when I started. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate any help...
Fixed it. For those that find yourself in the same predicament, this is what I did. I took the firing pin assy and slid the bolt handle onto it past the lug. Rotated the handle 90 degrees so the handle is locked on the lug. I used padded vice jaws and held the bolt handle facing down (the tail portion of the firing pin assy that sticks through the open slot in the shroud is up). I clamped on the tail that was sticking up with vice grip pliers and pulled on the pliers to compress the spring. Then I was able to slide the tool in, release the vice and pliers, take the bolt handle off, and re-assemble as usual.
I have done the same thing. Luckily I found a guy on YouTube that did it also and watched his vid on how to fix it. Lol I did this within the first 5 minutes after I brought the rifle home haha
Which way do you transport your RPR to the range: Open, or Folded?
Just curious, because I need to pick up a soft case that it will fit in with the scope mounted. I like the idea of folding it so that it fits in the back of my vehicle without having to fold down a seat and have it extend into the passenger compartment.
Just curious, because I need to pick up a soft case that it will fit in with the scope mounted. I like the idea of folding it so that it fits in the back of my vehicle without having to fold down a seat and have it extend into the passenger compartment.
LOL, thanks for the reply. Nice to know I was not the only one. I need to work on my YouTube searches because I didn't find any, but after you mentioned it I looked again and I found one.
Haha I hear ya I felt pretty dumb when I did it thank God for that video cuz I thought I broke my gun
I transport my RPR to the range in it's normal state open
I don't have the stock folded in. It just goes in my bag and I lay it down in the backseat
I don't have the stock folded in. It just goes in my bag and I lay it down in the backseat
