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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

Got a question for those using Seekins Rings on their RPR. Will the 1.26” Seekins/Vortex rings clear 50mm objective with a continuous top rail (like Seekins SP3R or Gen 1 handguard)? Or will I need the 1.40/1.46 height mount or rings?
 
Tx_Aggie said:
The 556 RPRs have a tendency towards cratered and blown primers. The thought is this is because the bolt is designed for 308 based cartridges that use large rifle primers, while 223/556 brass uses a small rifle primer. Ruger changed the size of the bolt face cutout but left everything else, including the firing pin and hole in the bolt face the same. The bolt doesn't adequately support the primer during firing and so the primer cup will either flow into the space around the firing pin or will give way completely resulting in a blown primer. Guys have had this occur with standard pressure factory ammo suggesting it's not a chamber pressure issue.

The solution is to have a gunsmith machine the bolt to accept a bushing surrounding the end of the firing pin. This will provide enough support to the primer to prevent cratering and blown primers at normal pressure levels.

LRI offers the service for $165. I think there may be other smiths who will do it for around $150 or less.

https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/gunsmithing-services-bushing-m700-striker-pin-hole

It is also something that is commonly done to rifles chambered in short action 38 based cartridges like 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5x47, etc. when switching to brass that uses small rifle primers, for the same reason. So, it's something you'll want to do, but it's not an uncommon problem and it's something seen in several types of factory rifles, Remington, Bergara, and Howa included.
Click to expand...


Thank you. Makes perfect sense.
 
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trob_205 said:
Got a question for those using Seekins Rings on their RPR. Will the 1.26” Seekins/Vortex rings clear 50mm objective with a continuous top rail (like Seekins SP3R or Gen 1 handguard)? Or will I need the 1.40/1.46 height mount or rings?
Click to expand...

You will probably need the higher rings, especially if you want to use a scope cap or sun shade on the objective.
 
Tx_Aggie said:
You will probably need the higher rings, especially if you want to use a scope cap or sun shade on the objective.
Click to expand...
Yea I did some measuring. If I spend the money on Leupold alum caps I would be good but decided to play it safe with the 1.40’s
 
My RPR is going to undergo a roll change lol. I got rid of my last 308 and ordered a Seekins Havak and putting in a Bravo chassis and it will get the Razor Gen 2. Same barrel length as RPR so instead of keeping them both 24” I’m gunna whack to barrel to 17-16.5” and push some 123 grain pills out of it to make it the handy rifle. I have a 6.5-20 Leupold VX-3i LRP to get the weight down and getting trying to have lighter, but will take some abuse ring system. Hopefully I can get the 123 bullets to push 2700+ and it will still outperform a 22” 175 SMK 308 @ 1K.
 
Guys,

Here you go. I have done quite a few of the RPR bolts and Ruger Ranch Rifle bolts.

Thanks for checking them out.:cool::cool:

Paul

www.boltfluting.com



PPR PICS 933.jpg
PPR PICS 1596.jpg
PPR PICS 1595.jpg
 
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Tx_Aggie said:
The 556 RPRs have a tendency towards cratered and blown primers. The thought is this is because the bolt is designed for 308 based cartridges that use large rifle primers, while 223/556 brass uses a small rifle primer. Ruger changed the size of the bolt face cutout but left everything else, including the firing pin and hole in the bolt face the same. The bolt doesn't adequately support the primer during firing and so the primer cup will either flow into the space around the firing pin or will give way completely resulting in a blown primer. Guys have had this occur with standard pressure factory ammo suggesting it's not a chamber pressure issue.

The solution is to have a gunsmith machine the bolt to accept a bushing surrounding the end of the firing pin. This will provide enough support to the primer to prevent cratering and blown primers at normal pressure levels.

LRI offers the service for $165. I think there may be other smiths who will do it for around $150 or less.

https://www.longriflesinc.com/products/gunsmithing-services-bushing-m700-striker-pin-hole

It is also something that is commonly done to rifles chambered in short action 38 based cartridges like 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5x47, etc. when switching to brass that uses small rifle primers, for the same reason. So, it's something you'll want to do, but it's not an uncommon problem and it's something seen in several types of factory rifles, Remington, Bergara, and Howa included.
Click to expand...


I think that they fixed this issue I ran my RPR with 75 bthp up to 2980 FPS and never had any pressure signs using Winchester brass and 450s. Or maybe it’s just the softer primers that are the issue.
 
Anyone have experience shooting the RPR and the Tikka T3x Tac? Thoughts? Looking at purchasing a pre-built chassis rifle. Currently comparing the Howa APC, Remington Model 700 PCR, Ruger RPR and Tikka T3x. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated!
 
Stay away from Remington, qc has slipped badly. All the others you mentioned should be fine. I'd personally lean toward the RPR or T3. I chose the RPR for the ability to rebarrel easily.
 
Last edited:
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I own an RPR and have fondled a few Tikka's at the range. The Tikka's are nice but they are a lot more than the RPR and they do not offer the magazine versatility the RPR does.

I think best bang for the buck between the two is:
- Buy an RPR in 6CM for less than $800
- Don't even shoot it, just swap the barrel for a match barrel
- Sell the new 6CM barrel.

YMMV
 
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Gents, I need some input. Was shooting some German surplus that did surprisingly well (1.2in 10 shot groups) but had ~40% light primer strikes (lifted bolt to reset and fired the second go), ammo runs well in an M1A.

RPR runs just dandy with handloads using BR2s, but this bugs me. Does anyone make a stronger firing pin spring for the RPR?

I’d like to have access to cheap, reliable ammo if the mood strikes me and I have a case of the stuff.
 
dbowl23 said:
Anyone have experience shooting the RPR and the Tikka T3x Tac? Thoughts? Looking at purchasing a pre-built chassis rifle. Currently comparing the Howa APC, Remington Model 700 PCR, Ruger RPR and Tikka T3x. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

I’ve shot both. I own and RPR and shot my friends tikka tac in 6.5. Both are great rifles and have great accuracy out of the box. There’s more aftermarket easily available for the RPR and extra mags are way cheaper. My next rifle will be a Tikka t3x tac. Don’t know much about the Howa and heard Remington might be having some QC issues.
 
I want to add a Magpul PRS Gen 2 to my Ruger Precision. Can I use the AR15 version or do I need the AR10. If both work , which is the preferred?
 
2ASolutionsLLC said:
I want to add a Magpul PRS Gen 2 to my Ruger Precision. Can I use the AR15 version or do I need the AR10. If both work , which is the preferred?
Click to expand...
The gen 3 is compatible with a rifle length buffer or the standard AR 15 buffer tune that is already on the rifle. I recommend bedding up to the rifle length tube
 
If you’re a shorter guy your going to want to find a gen 2. If given a choice the rifle tube mounting is best. I had to use the carbine attachment on my gen 3 and wack off part of it just to get length of pull down to 14”.
 
trob_205 said:
If you’re a shorter guy your going to want to find a gen 2. If given a choice the rifle tube mounting is best. I had to use the carbine attachment on my gen 3 and wack off part of it just to get length of pull down to 14”.
Click to expand...
Im only about 5'10".
 
A friend bought a rpr 308 last year on a whim and is finally coming out to shoot with my group at our range. Most of us have 6.5's and he was about to buy another rifle to have the same caliber. I've talked him into just changing the barrel on the rpr.

What barrel would you suggest? Do any hide vendors carry in stock prefits?

I have found some in stock criterion barrels and lri prefits that have a quick turn around time. I'm no help when it comes to this and he wants something in stock, not wanting to wait weeks on it.

Thanks
 
I've seen good results from the PROOF Research all steel barrels. They are reasonably priced too. I've heard good things about their carbon fiber barrels too, but they are a bit more expensive.
 
Yep i have looked for the proof steel barrels but haven't found any in stock anywhere. The carbon fiber is more than he wants to spend.
 
Criterion makes a good barrel. White oaks armament typically have RPR prefits in stock as well. (Shilen and Kreiger)
 
The PVA wait will ultimately be worth it I picked up a 260 PVA barrel for a Savage action and its an absolute hammer. I personally will look for a faster turn around time on my Ruger and probably go with the Proof All SS for the price its hard to beat.
 
I’m liking PVA, Proof, or Criterion. Don’t think you can go wrong with any of them
 
You can add LRI to the list. Chad and the guys are definitely GTG. If for some reason I can't get one from PVA, they are next on my short list.
 
So I got my RPR 6.5 yesterday. I was taking it out of the box and had it on the table. My wife closed and locked the stock while the bolt was not installed. Not really thinking much of it. Thought I could just push the stock release button. The button won't depress. The book instructions state to turn the tab end counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The tab won't more and the button won't depress. I had to walk away from it for a few mins. Any ideas?
 
2ASolutionsLLC said:
So I got my RPR 6.5 yesterday. I was taking it out of the box and had it on the table. My wife closed and locked the stock while the bolt was not installed. Not really thinking much of it. Thought I could just push the stock release button. The button won't depress. The book instructions state to turn the tab end counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The tab won't more and the button won't depress. I had to walk away from it for a few mins. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Mine was really tight the first couple times. Try taping it with the plastic end of a screw driver or piece of wood
 
2ASolutionsLLC said:
So I got my RPR 6.5 yesterday. I was taking it out of the box and had it on the table. My wife closed and locked the stock while the bolt was not installed. Not really thinking much of it. Thought I could just push the stock release button. The button won't depress. The book instructions state to turn the tab end counterclockwise 1/4 turn. The tab won't more and the button won't depress. I had to walk away from it for a few mins. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I've found that if you use a bit of force when opening the stock, it tends to be hard to push that button. I've gotten in the habit of holding the button while opening the stock, then when the stock is in the open position, I release the button. It's easier to open later.

In the mean time, use a rubber mallet or the handle of the screwdriver to help you push the button.
 
gunkook said:
I have one and really like it. it seems to like hornady 105's, and really shines in the wind.
Click to expand...
I just started the 110 SMK's at 3000 and they are even flatter and add 200 yards before they transition to subsonic from the 105's.
 
I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?

To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.

Thanks,
Cuz
 
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RPR Shooters... Any tips to removing this factory muzzle break? (Gen 2)

I need to remove the factory break so I can thread on the TBAC break for my Ultra7. I've currently tried breaking loose the lock nut with the wrench flats, but can't budge the thing. No barrel vise here at home.

Suggestions?
 
PFG said:
RPR Shooters... Any tips to removing this factory muzzle break? (Gen 2)

I need to remove the factory break so I can thread on the TBAC break for my Ultra7. I've currently tried breaking loose the lock nut with the wrench flats, but can't budge the thing. No barrel vise here at home.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Mine spun right off
 
cuz said:
I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?

To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.

Thanks,
Cuz
Click to expand...
Hornady 140 ELD match
 

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cuz said:
I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?

To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.

Thanks,
Cuz
Click to expand...
I also have and shoot a 6.5 CM RPR. mine really likes everything that i load for it but in factory ammo, it seems to like the hornady match 140 ELD-M. where as the 120 A-MAX didn't fare as well. that's just my rifle, but everyone i know who has a 6.5 CM they all seem to shoot the 140 ELD-M factory well. hope that helps.
 
My friends rpr likes hornady 140 eldm and 129 sst. It did not likehornady black.
 
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