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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?

To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.

Thanks,
Cuz
I have two thousand rounds through my RPR. Hornaday 140 ELD (product #81500) always works best. Do not try any accuracy testing until you have at least 100 rounds on the gun. Good luck.
 
I've found that if you use a bit of force when opening the stock, it tends to be hard to push that button. I've gotten in the habit of holding the button while opening the stock, then when the stock is in the open position, I release the button. It's easier to open later.

In the mean time, use a rubber mallet or the handle of the screwdriver to help you push the button.

Ended up using my Gunsmithing hammer and it worked on the first hit. Thanks
 
I’m planning to order some 6.5 CM ammo in anticipation of getting my RPR rifle. I don’t mind buying a few different brands/weights to see what performs best in my particular rifle. But I’d like to know what you guys have found to work best in your “stock” RPR. Is the factory barrel designed to prefer a particular bullet weight? I’m a beginner so I don’t need the very best ammo, I’m not looking for sub moa groups at 500 yards. Am I better off sticking with one mfg and trying a few of their different bullet weights? Or should I pick a weight and get different mfgs of that weight?

To start out, I’ll be shooting paper and steel at no more than 500 yds while I learn this new sport.

Thanks,
Cuz
My recommendation would be to pick up a 200 round pack of Hornady American Gunner and shoot that at first. Then buy some of the different spec Hornady match ammo. Prime 130g shoots good too.
 
RPR Shooters... Any tips to removing this factory muzzle break? (Gen 2)

I need to remove the factory break so I can thread on the TBAC break for my Ultra7. I've currently tried breaking loose the lock nut with the wrench flats, but can't budge the thing. No barrel vise here at home.

Suggestions?

I found that the manual is backwards, try unthreading it opposite of what the manual says.
 
I shot a match with mine today, I found it a bit of pain to single load rds. Does anyone know of a single shot follower made for these.
I made a single load adapter for my mags. I made it from a piece of PVC pipe (1 inch I think). You insert it on top of the magazine follower. The only problem is that you have to remove it to load more than one round in the mag. Others have ground off the back raised corner of the mag follower at a 45 degree angle to allow the bolt to close on an empty mag. I don't have pictures of the grinding option but do have pics of the PVC pipe adapter.

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I made a single load adapter for my mags. I made it from a piece of PVC pipe (1 inch I think). You insert it on top of the magazine follower. The only problem is that you have to remove it to load more than one round in the mag. Others have ground off the back raised corner of the mag follower at a 45 degree angle to allow the bolt to close on an empty mag. I don't have pictures of the grinding option but do have pics of the PVC pipe adapter.

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I just made one with 1" PVC, works perfectly, thanks for the idea.
 
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^ Also, I’ve ground the mag follower on all my mags (even though I never use them). It works well to get rid of the bolt stop, but not well to single feed as the round doesn’t sit low and at the right angle to be picked up by the bolt, and kind of jams against the feed ramps a lot
 
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I also have and shoot a 6.5 CM RPR. mine really likes everything that i load for it but in factory ammo, it seems to like the hornady match 140 ELD-M. where as the 120 A-MAX didn't fare as well. that's just my rifle, but everyone i know who has a 6.5 CM they all seem to shoot the 140 ELD-M factory well. hope that helps.

Another vote for Hornady 140 factory loads in the RPR 6.5. Finally a Ruger that's a consistent shooter! After giving them many decades to get it right, glad I didn't pass this one up.
 
My recommendation would be to pick up a 200 round pack of Hornady American Gunner and shoot that at first. Then buy some of the different spec Hornady match ammo. Prime 130g shoots good too.

Wow, that ammo is much cheaper than the ELD Match ammo. I’ll pick up some of that to put through it first, and then switch to the ELD. Thanks.
 
Has anyone broke a firing pin back on their RPR? My first one lasted about 2300 rounds (and about as many dry fires). I replaced it and the second lasted about 600. Has anyone seen this?

Bang

Just short of 3,200 rounds on my .308 RPR (maybe about 1000 dry fires) since new and have had no functional issues of any kind. I'm really satisfied with my RPR.
 
Not sure if there is a better place to post this, thought I would start here. Just bought a RPR 6.5 Creedmoor, purchased Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 EBR-2C MRAD Riflescope and looking for recommendations for mounting rings for this for shooting out to 1000/1200Yds. New to long range Percision and this will need to go from 100-1200 Yds. Thanks in advance for your help
 

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You’ll want high rings at the least. X-high probably better. Don’t get crappy cheap ones. You have a 20MOA base on the rifle, just an FYI.

ARC, Nightforce ultralights, Badger. I have a set of Warnes but my next set will be ARC M10s. Some people like Seekins/vortex as well. I’d go with something lower priced for the PST personally. Stay away from vertically split rings.
 
Here’s my little RPR. It’s chambered in 308. It’s one of the integrally suppressed versions from Machine Gun Tours/Witt Machine and Tool. Finally got the glass for it. I’m running a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 EBR-2C Reticle (MOA) with Vortex Precision Matched rings. I did minor upgrades to the bolt. Replaced the bolt shroud with the Titanium shroud, replace the bolt handle and knob with the titanium version, and added a Catalyst Arms Mag release extension. Have not put too many rounds through it so I’m not sure if I will replace the trigger or not. So far I like the trigger.
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Here’s my little RPR. It’s chambered in 308. It’s one of the integrally suppressed versions from Machine Gun Tours/Witt Machine and Tool. Finally got the glass for it. I’m running a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25x50 EBR-2C Reticle (MOA) with Vortex Precision Matched rings. I did minor upgrades to the bolt. Replaced the bolt shroud with the Titanium shroud, replace the bolt handle and knob with the titanium version, and added a Catalyst Arms Mag release extension. Have not put too many rounds through it so I’m not sure if I will replace the trigger or not. So far I like the trigger.
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Which height did you do on the rings? Looking to shoot 1000-1500 yds and need to make sure I will have enough adjusment in the MilRad version I just ordered.
 
When I talked to Vortex and told them the rifle I have and scope I was fixing to order they said high rings would work best. So that's what I ordered. Precision Matched Rings — Height: 1.45 Inches
 
Are any of you as big of a goofball as me and have the plastic tool that separates the firing pin and cocking piece pop off? I have been unable to get tool back in and probably made it worse but rotating the assembly and not sure how it was when I started. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate any help...
 
Fixed it. For those that find yourself in the same predicament, this is what I did. I took the firing pin assy and slid the bolt handle onto it past the lug. Rotated the handle 90 degrees so the handle is locked on the lug. I used padded vice jaws and held the bolt handle facing down (the tail portion of the firing pin assy that sticks through the open slot in the shroud is up). I clamped on the tail that was sticking up with vice grip pliers and pulled on the pliers to compress the spring. Then I was able to slide the tool in, release the vice and pliers, take the bolt handle off, and re-assemble as usual.
 
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Fixed it. For those that find yourself in the same predicament, this is what I did. I took the firing pin assy and slid the bolt handle onto it past the lug. Rotated the handle 90 degrees so the handle is locked on the lug. I used padded vice jaws and held the bolt handle facing down (the tail portion of the firing pin assy that sticks through the open slot in the shroud is up). I clamped on the tail that was sticking up with vice grip pliers and pulled on the pliers to compress the spring. Then I was able to slide the tool in, release the vice and pliers, take the bolt handle off, and re-assemble as usual.
I have done the same thing. Luckily I found a guy on YouTube that did it also and watched his vid on how to fix it. Lol I did this within the first 5 minutes after I brought the rifle home haha
 
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Which way do you transport your RPR to the range: Open, or Folded?

Just curious, because I need to pick up a soft case that it will fit in with the scope mounted. I like the idea of folding it so that it fits in the back of my vehicle without having to fold down a seat and have it extend into the passenger compartment.
 
I have done the same thing. Luckily I found a guy on YouTube that did it also and watched his vid on how to fix it. Lol I did this within the first 5 minutes after I brought the rifle home haha
LOL, thanks for the reply. Nice to know I was not the only one. I need to work on my YouTube searches because I didn't find any, but after you mentioned it I looked again and I found one.