6.5 Creedmoor

[NamibHunter]

Hey guys,

So, I just built my daughter a 6.5CM with a 16.5” Barrel for hunting. She’s going to get her first elk in October and I’m looking to see what kind of powder recommendations you have. I was thinking H4350 but with the shorter barrel I’ve seen some posts of guys using RE17 to get the velocity’s up. Looking to run 140 ELD-M’s. I’ve also seen some using RE16, and even Varget for lighter bullets. Being it’s an Elk Hunt I want to er on the heavyset 140 bullets.

What do you guys think? Anyone running and of the above mentioned powders with heavy 6.5 bullets from short barrels with good results? If so, what’s you load data?

That’s in advance.

S/F

Seth

No idea how good the new 156 grain Berger hunting bullet works on bigger animals like elk, but that is one option to get the energy number up on a short barrel. Has a very good BC, so should retain velocity better than other options. Berger claims a 1:8 twist is OK, but testing will have to confirm that.

Have used Reloder-17 on the Sierra 150 grain SMK, and managed to get around 150 fps more than H4350. But it is rather temperature sensitive. Might want to carry the loaded rounds in an inside pocket to make sure they are close to body temperature, or you might lose quite a lot of speed and hit low.

Primer will also be temp sensitive to an extent, and the cold barrel will affect MV too. Probably not the dominant effect here.

Superformance also gives higher speed than other options, but can cause problems on hot summer days like blown primers. I have stopped using it for accuracy / target reloads. Texas gets hot by August! You will need a winter and a summer load.

Superformance is mostly OK for factory hunting ammo. (The Hornady’s Superformance blend that they use in their factory ammo is a different blend from what you and i can buy). Each caliber has a unique blend. All are called Superformance, which is causing a lot of confusion.

Matrix also makes a super heavy 160 grain high BC hunting bullet. Believe it is a Canadian company. Seems to have a good reputation. Will work for long shots, as ling as you

I’ve heard quite a few good reports on the 140 ELDM on game.

Has anybody tried the new Berger 156 grain hunting bullet?

Heaviest i know about is the 160 gn Matrix solid copper bullet. Small company in Canada, but they have a good reputation.

I have achieved good speed with Reloder 17, but it is temp sensitive. Carry in an inner pocket in snow to keep the powder at body temp.

 

[HogsLife]

No idea how good the new 156 grain Berger hunting bullet works on bigger animals like elk, but that is one option to get the energy number up on a short barrel. Has a very good BC, so should retain velocity better than other options. Berger claims a 1:8 twist is OK, but testing will have to confirm that.

Have used Reloder-17 on the Sierra 150 grain SMK, and managed to get around 150 fps more than H4350. But it is rather temperature sensitive. Might want to carry the loaded rounds in an inside pocket to make sure they are close to body temperature, or you might lose quite a lot of speed and hit low.

Primer will also be temp sensitive to an extent, and the cold barrel will affect MV too. Probably not the dominant effect here.

Superformance also gives higher speed than other options, but can cause problems on hot summer days like blown primers. I have stopped using it for accuracy / target reloads. Texas gets hot by August! You will need a winter and a summer load.

Superformance is mostly OK for factory hunting ammo. (The Hornady’s Superformance blend that they use in their factory ammo is a different blend from what you and i can buy). Each caliber has a unique blend. All are called Superformance, which is causing a lot of confusion.

Matrix also makes a super heavy 160 grain high BC hunting bullet. Believe it is a Canadian company. Seems to have a good reputation. Will work for long shots, as ling as you


Has anybody tried the new Berger 156 grain hunting bullet?

Heaviest i know about is the 160 gn Matrix solid copper bullet. Small company in Canada, but they have a good reputation.

I have achieved good speed with Reloder 17, but it is temp sensitive. Carry in an inner pocket in snow to keep the powder at body temp.

Thanks for the info man. I have lent heard much about the 150+ GN bullets out of a Creedmoor. I’d be curious to see if a 1:8 in a 16.5” short barrel would be fast enough to stabilize it. I would think a 1:7 or 1:7.5 would be ideal.

I may just run up some Barnes 127gn LRX for her rifle for hunting. My experience with the Barnes Coppers are pretty damn good when it comes to Terminal performance. They hit above their weight class.

I’m thinking some 4350 and 127gn LRX’s are gonna be the ticket for her hunting round.

 

[John Glidewell]

I have shot the 153 Atip out of my 1-8 and it did fine, but difficult to get any real velocity. had 2 nodes with VV N560, one around 44 grains at 2725ish and one pushing near max around 47+ at 2820 ish.

Honestly for hunting, I would go with a 130 Sierra or Berger hunting bullet. Sierras are easy to tune, just start them at .020 or .025 off lands. They usually shoot very well there and you can get 2750+ easy out of a standard 24" barrel.

 

[NamibHunter]

Thanks for the info man. I have lent heard much about the 150+ GN bullets out of a Creedmoor. I’d be curious to see if a 1:8 in a 16.5” short barrel would be fast enough to stabilize it. I would think a 1:7 or 1:7.5 would be ideal.

I may just run up some Barnes 127gn LRX for her rifle for hunting. My experience with the Barnes Coppers are pretty damn good when it comes to Terminal performance. They hit above their weight class.

I’m thinking some 4350 and 127gn LRX’s are gonna be the ticket for her hunting round.

Barnes is a superb hunting bullet. Opens up like a four blade propellor and the temporary wound channel is very large. We cull large numbers of springbuck at the start of the winter (goes into a cooler truck to be sold in the shops in the city). Not enough food for them during the dry winter months to survive. It is semi desert conditions. You have to shoot them in the head or high in the neck to satisfy the commercial meat requirements. I like to use the Barnes, and it often breaks the neck, takes out an entire vertebra. On heavier animals like kudu or eland, and for household consumption, we would do head shots under 200 yards, and shoulder shots beyond. The Barnes bullet certainly punches above its weight class.

You are most likely going to lose about 20 to 25 fps per inch of barrel length, compared to a typical 24”, or around 160 to 200 fps slower. You should get around 2500 fps from a 130 class bullet in a 16.5”, which is still adequate. [Perhaps a little more speed, depending on powder choice.]

You probably know this already, but just to note that Barnes recommend specific powders and seating depth for their bullets. Their solid copper bullets are supposed to be seated very deep according to the Barnes reloading manual, with the last groove inside the case, that eats up case capacity, and different powders with good load density are needed. Otherwise you get a badly compressed load and low speed. Of course, do not use load data for standard lead core bullets to develop loads for any solid copper bullets. They are much harder than lead core bullets and the engraving force is higher, which can very suddenly bring on pressure problems. Still: Worth using i think.

Hope this helps!

 

[XTREM HTR16]

You might also try the Berger factory loads. The 135 classic hunter ammo shoots 0.5 MOA and gets 2720 fps velocity from my 20” creed. And the barrel only had 20 shots on it when I chrono’d it so it should speed up some after 100 rounds.

 

[NamibHunter]

You might also try the Berger factory loads. The 135 classic hunter ammo shoots 0.5 MOA and gets 2720 fps velocity from my 20” creed. And the barrel only had 20 shots on it when I chrono’d it so it should speed up some after 100 rounds.

Good option too.

The factory loaded Berger ammo seems to be faster across the board. Wonder what powder they use. Could be one of the vihtavuori powders, as they have all been acquired by Lapua in Finland.

The 140 Berger Hybrid factory ammo (loaded in lovely Lapua brass) runs about 60-70 fps faster than Hornady 140 ELD-M ammo in both my Savage and MPA rifles. Accurate too, and remarkably cheap given the quality of the components they use. A good way to get top quality Lapua brass on the cheap.

Edit: You could even pull the Berger Hybrid bullets from the Lapua cases, and then do your own load development using the same powder, primers, brass and projectiles, to optimize for your rifle and your chamber.

Btw: There is no way you can buy the same high quality components at this price. [I hate to say this, as people may start hoarding it, but i intend to buy a few hundred rounds.]

 

[Terry of illinois]

has anybody used reloader 26 with 130 berger vld .Just wondering how that would work out in 26 in. barrel

 

[Sixfivesavage]

Good option too.

The factory loaded Berger ammo seems to be faster across the board. Wonder what powder they use. Could be one of the vihtavuori powders, as they have all been acquired by Lapua in Finland.

The 140 Berger Hybrid factory ammo (loaded in lovely Lapua brass) runs about 60-70 fps faster than Hornady 140 ELD-M ammo in both my Savage and MPA rifles. Accurate too, and remarkably cheap given the quality of the components they use. A good way to get top quality Lapua brass on the cheap.

Edit: You could even pull the Berger Hybrid bullets from the Lapua cases, and then do your own load development using the same powder, primers, brass and projectiles, to optimize for your rifle and your chamber.

Btw: There is no way you can buy the same high quality components at this price. [I hate to say this, as people may start hoarding it, but i intend to buy a few hundred rounds.]

It's about a tenth, maybe tenth and a half flatter than my hand loads with the same bullet in alpha small primer brass. Just a touch less consistent but could honestly be me, not sure. I haven't run it across my magnetospeed to see the SD/ES. It's not even worth me loading anymore.

 

[NamibHunter]

Re: **6.5 Creedmoor Loads**

With everyone's input thus far, is the factory ammo worth focusing on or are the hand load results far better?
My build will be complete soon and I was looking to shoot the factory ammo. I'd like consistent results. I have 400 rounds in the cabinet already. if I need to buy dies, I can move that way too.
I'd appreciate the opinions.

SP

How far do you intend to shoot? Hunting, paper targets or steel? Casual Saturday shooter, or an active competitor?

In my experience, if you buy the good “match” factory ammo that your rifle likes, you will be fine out to 500 or even 600 yards, shooting 1/2 MOA or larger steel plates. Yes the best hand loads will outperform the best factory ammo, but imho most causal target shooters will not experience enough of a difference until they get to 800 yards, 1000 yards, and longer ranges.

If you intend to compete, then yes hand loads are worth it.

 

[John Glidewell]

I am hearing good things about Berger ammo, I am going to try some. I know lots of folks love the Prime ammo too. There are some very good factory loads. I have had good luck with Hornady match out to 1k. The nice thing about hand loads is you can tune them and get better performance if you know what you are doing. If you are new to hand loading the 6.5 is a great platform to learn on, but frankly, I feel there is enough good factory options out there you can just shoot. Part of the 6.5 Creedmoor concept was having over the counter factory ammo for it. I would try a box of each and run what the gun liked best. Hornady, Prime, Berger all make match ammunition.

 

[30338]

135 Grain berger ammo in my Hawk Hill #2 6.5 creedmoor at 22" shot 2750 fps and held .5 moa to 500 the day I shot it. Very easy to like that ammo.

 

[woogie_man]

Well finally able to look at a few things ..... no thanks to work getting in the way. Borrowed a beam scale from a buddy as well as a shipping scale from my shop. Doing some conversions for the shipping scale, I was able to get a constant 40.0 grains on the beam scale as well as the shipping scale...... but on my small hornady digital scale I was getting 40.5. So on all the loads I was trying to get constant.... at a 41.3 grains, I was actually throwing 41.8 grains. So now that I know the amount my scale was off I should be able to get closer to what the actual loads should be, or it gives me a good reason to get a new scale.

Next up is to test the actual brass and see what I am able to get there as well

 

[Lunchbox27]

If it’s any consolation... I cross weigh mine with a GemPro250. Chargemaster 1500 to GP250.

Just peace of mind and works for me.

Definitely get a new scale.

 

[Tokay444]

If it’s any consolation... I cross weigh mine with a GemPro250. Chargemaster 1500 to GP250.

Just peace of mind and works for me.

Definitely get a new scale.

How accurate/repeatable do you find what the Chargemaster throws?

 

[Lunchbox27]

How accurate/repeatable do you find what the Chargemaster throws?

Honestly... its always been within 1/10th of a grain. Never more. Its the zero that always walks on me. 155.3 goes to 155.2. I have it sitting in a room with no a/c vents, all LED lighting, and a $200 power conditioner... still sways.

Hence... cross weighing.

 

[105gr]

When I started loading for handguns I was using the little digital scale that comes in the hornady press reloading kit. Didnt take long to figure out that it was junk. I went and got an RCBS 502

 

[NamibHunter]

If it’s any consolation... I cross weigh mine with a GemPro250. Chargemaster 1500 to GP250.

Just peace of mind and works for me.

Definitely get a new scale.

Had a GemPro250 for years, actually had two. Liked it and my reloads got better. Accurate to about 0.04 gn (not quite the 0.02 gn resolution they claim, as the zero drifts a little bit too). Actually a pretty good option from an accuracy perspective, but not robust. Accidentally destroyed two of them. Turned over one to get some stray powered kernels out of the way, and it immediately died. Not covered by warranty. The second one i accidentally pressed a tweezer on the platter and the same dreaded error message appeared (it does not take much). Concluded that i am too rough with my equipment.

Switched to an AND FX120i, and so far i am very happy with this scale. Probably more accurate than it needs to be, and a little pricey. Appears to be more rugged, virtually zero drift, and almost never needs recalibrating.

Just treat your GemPro with care and you will get years of good service from it.

edit: Replaced “food service” with “good service”. That was a rather funny (but unintentional) booboo.

 

[NamibHunter]

If it’s any consolation... I cross weigh mine with a GemPro250. Chargemaster 1500 to GP250.

Just peace of mind and works for me.

Definitely get a new scale.

Had a GemPro250 for years, actually had two. Liked it and my reloads got better. Accurate to about 0.04 gn (not quite the 0.02 gn resolution they claim, as the zero drifts a little bit too). Actually a pretty good option from an accuracy perspective, but not robust. Accidentally destroyed two of them. Turned over one to get some stray powered kernels out of the way, and it immediately died. Not covered by warranty. The second one i accidentally pressed a tweezer on the platter and the same dreaded error message appeared (it does not take much). Concluded that i am too rough with my equipment.

Switched to an AND FX120i, and so far i am very happy with this scale. Probbaly more accurate than it needs to be, and a little pricey. Appears to be more rugged, practically no drift in the zero, and almost never needs recalibrating. And fast.

Just treat your GemPro with care.

 

[Lunchbox27]

Yes, an FX 120i is on my short list. I have too many things I want first.

 

[NamibHunter]

Yes, an FX 120i is on my short list. I have too many things I want first.

That works fine. I would recommend the FX120 and Autotrickler in “phase 2” of your reloading journey...

 

[NamibHunter]

The 140 ELD has put down two mule deer each with one shot apiece for me.
553 yards
View attachment 7147908
And this one at 300 something.
View attachment 7147909
Plus another four or five mulies if you count the old 140 a-max.

Very nice mule deer Mr. Niles!

Did the ELD-M exit the animal? Presume it would.

In my experience, all hollow point and polymer tipped bullets open up and expand when they hit the animal at adequate speed. Differences between modern target and hunting bullets are not that significant, and have to do with things like the thickness of the copper jacket, if the jacket is fused to the lead core (most target bullets are), how much the bullet will penetrate before it mushrooms and opens up, if the jacket will separate, and how it will handle thick bones. I would be happy to use ELD-M bullets on deer and elk. ELD-X is probably a little better optimized for terminal ballistics.

But I would not use thin jacket target bullets on Cape Buffalo or hippo. ?

 

[Niles Coyote]

@NamibHunter in both cases, yes. There was considerable damage around the wound tracks indicating expansion as well.

I wouldn't recommend them for dangerous African game

 

[txguero]

Hopefully I'm not hijacking or anything, but I'm interested in some opinions regarding a recent 6.5CM build I did. It is a Savage 12 with a pre-fit criterion. Rifle shoots lights out - so far it has given me the best 5 shot group I have ever created. However, it seems to have a super short freebore. I'm having to seat bullets .100 - .200 deeper than manufacturer recommendations to stay out of the lands with 140 class bullets. Factory loaded rounds are jammed into the lands. I spoke with the manufacturer and received an offer for the chamber to be cast and/or re-cut but was informed that the chamber should have been saami spec from the manufacturer. On one hand it's kind of a bummer that I will have to watch pressures more closely and am having to stuff bullets way down in the case, but on the other hand I'll have plenty of room to chase the lands as the barrel wears. Any opinions or similar experiences?

 

[John Glidewell]

If the barring surface down by the boat tail is still in the neck then you are fine. If it is going past the neck area and into the shoulder area then I would send it back.

 

[txguero]

@Gwain yep it's a little bit down into the shoulder area. Kinda reminds me of a 260 with a long bullet seated to mag length.

 

[NamibHunter]

@Gwain yep it's a little bit down into the shoulder area. Kinda reminds me of a 260 with a long bullet seated to mag length.

I have a Savage Model 12, and it is/was one of the most accurate rifles i have owned in 35 years. [I realize not all of them will shoot 0.3” groups, but mine did, until the barrel wore out at 2,800 rounds down the pipe.]

You will be fine. I had a similar situation with my Savage 12. Start by shooting 130 grain bullets (Prime makes a good factory round), or load Bergers or A-tip bullets. You can run the ballistics, but the drop and wind drift of a 130 will not disappoint at distances below 600 yards. The Berger 130 AR Hybrid is a good option. Designed for loading to mag length, and the BC is very respectable. [The 120 gn options are ok out to 400 yards, but you will wish for a higher BC if you shoot them out to 600-800 yards.]

When the throat wears a little and the lands move forward (after 500 or so rounds), go to bullets in the 140 gn class. Eventually you may want to try the 156 gn Berger, as it apparently stabilizes from an 8 twist barrel, but the barrel might be toast before you get there.

This situation is not ideal, but it is still better than throating for a 140 gn bullet, and then not being able to reach the lands after 500 rounds... eventually (after 2,300 shots) my reloads (10 thou jump) had slightly less than one diameter of bearing surface in the neck of the case, so seating depth became marginal, looked like missiles, would not fit in the (exceptionally long) Savage box mag, and had to hand feed them one at a time. That worked, and accuracy was ok until the very end.

Was a sad day when i pulled the factory barrel. Speed sometimes dropped 100 fps, and would vary 50-100 fps round to round. That did not work too well, so it had to go. Shilen replacement barrel shot 0.5 to 0.6” groups. Double what the gun did before.

 

[Tokay444]

24” Rockcreek button rifled PVA Nucleus pre-fit.
1:8 twist.
147gr ELD-M over 42.2gr H4350 @ 2810ish in 50* temps.
Alpha LRP brass loaded to 2.210” CBTO @ .020” off the lands.
I’m super new to shooting in general and even newer to loading my own ammo.
This was a 10 shot group from this morning at 100 yards.
I can get some .3 and .4 five shot groups fairly frequently, but something usually opens them up. I’ve never had a string of 3 or more 5 shot groups that tight. Obviously I’m proceeding as though I’m the weakest link in the chain, but I am cycling through two boxes of the lot 218 ELD-Ms that have been blowing up mid air. While that hasn’t happened to me yet, if it’s happening to others, perhaps it’s contributing to some inconsistencies.

 

[Tokay444]

These are my best groups, but it’s not as consistent as I’d like them.
Again, I’m under no assumption that it isn’t me messing up behind the gun.
The gun certainly has the potential.
I just wish I could pinpoint definitively what allows me shoot on 5 shot group sub half, then the very next group over 5/8-3/4. Am I expecting too much?
Obviously there’s hundreds of variables, but if I load up 3 carriages at the same time, with the same process and then shoot them on the same day under the same conditions, I have to assume it’s mostly me.

 

[Lunchbox27]

I use to think once I had a load that shot 1/4” , I could do it on the drop of a dime. Boy, was I wrong.

I consider myself a sub-moa shooter, mostly around the 5/8-3/4. Load development and shooting groups can be stressful, imo. All the time spent prepping, researching, begging the wife to get away ( truth ) and range time. Just to get there and have your previous “known load” turn to shit.

For me, I always keep a box of match ammo with me. When I am second guessing myself or losing confidence in my hand loads, I shoot half a box or a whole box and confirm. Lots of times, its told me the node I thought was good, wasn’t. This is what lead me to Dan Newberry’s OCW. I encourage you to check that out.

That said, those groups look good to me.

 

[Tokay444]

I use to think once I had a load that shot 1/4” , I could do it on the drop of a dime. Boy, was I wrong.

I consider myself a sub-moa shooter, mostly around the 5/8-3/4. Load development and shooting groups can be stressful, imo. All the time spent prepping, researching, begging the wife to get away ( truth ) and range time. Just to get there and have your previous “known load” turn to shit.

For me, I always keep a box of match ammo with me. When I am second guessing myself or losing confidence in my hand loads, I shoot half a box or a whole box and confirm. Lots of times, its told me the node I thought was good, wasn’t. This is what lead me to Dan Newberry’s OCW. I encourage you to check that out.

That said, those groups look good to me.

Thanks very much, and I will check out the OCW.
For comparison, this was the same load, this morning, at 200 yards.
Kinda falls to shit.
What I have been doing it 3 back to back 10 shot Satterlee load tests, and looking for plateaus in the graphs. Trying to find the ones that are comcistent over the 3 ten shot stings can be a challenge.
After that, I kinda do an OCW test I guess, where I vary the load inside those plateaus and shoot for the tightest groups. What I haven’t done however, is pay much attention to how the groups pattern around the point of aim. I have read that is what I’m ultimately supposed to look for.
Still .83MOA, but given how consisten my muzzle velocity is, and it only being 200 yards, I'd hoped for a lot less vertical spread.

 

[Lunchbox27]

Yes.

I have yet to own a creedmoor barrel (sample of 8) that didn't have a node in the 41.3-41.5 grain range with 140 eld and H4350. There is usually another at 42.5-42.7 however it tends to be a bit more narrow.

Hard to dispute!

41.4 grains of H4350 with the 140ELD. Hornady brass, CCI200’s

Following 5 shots over chrono were
2814
2819
2820
2818
2815
2.3 SD

Left the chrono on and shot at 945 yards for 12 rounds. Avg was 2810 with SD of 8.7

 

[Juggerxxx]

Hard to dispute!

41.4 grains of H4350 with the 140ELD. Hornady brass, CCI200’s

Following 5 shots over chrono were
2814
2819
2820
2818
2815
2.3 SD

View attachment 7169013

Left the chrono on and shot at 945 yards for 12 rounds. Avg was 2810 with SD of 8.7

Very nice especially the velocity. What barrel is that and what length?
My 28” proof only pushes the 140ELD with Hornady brass at 2830fps with 42.2gr of H4350.

 

[Lunchbox27]

Very nice especially the velocity. What barrel is that and what length?
My 28” proof only pushes the 140ELD with Hornady brass at 2830fps with 42.2gr of H4350.

I’m running a 24” Proof with an Omega can. This is my 2nd lot of H4350 with this speed. Might just be a fast barrel. Even the 140 eld ammo is going 2800 fps.

 

[John Glidewell]

It can be the chrono too, unless you are using a labradar or magnetospeed. I quit using my cheap light source chrono because it was so off on speed. Nice shooting though.

 

[Brettmparker1]

Re: **6.5 Creedmoor Loads**

anyone using the 140 berger hybrids yet? i know they are hard to get just wondering what the groups were like compared to the almighty 140 amax... ?? post pics and data if you have it!

I tried the 140 hybrids with h4350 and never found a node to make a group less than an inch maybe I’ll try a different powder one day. I also loaded to mag length and had almost a 40 thousandth jump. I quit chasing it and went back to Eldm 140

 

[John Glidewell]

If you have not tried the 142 SMK you might consider them. Pointed from factory and they out performed the ELD past 1200. Easy to tune too, they will shoot at .020-.030 off the lands. Just another option if you have not tried them.

 

[M113A3]

Nice numbers. It would be interesting to see the numbers of say 20 rounds and then see how the load does between 600 and 1000.

 

[Lunchbox27]

Not sure I’ll chrono anymore past that. For me, 12 rounds with single digit SD is better than I can shoot. Those 12 shots were with the magnetospeed attached and shooting at 945. I have no way to get to the steel after I shoot on my range to measure the grouping, but I was happy with what I saw.

 

[M113A3]

I will do some more testing of a load hopefully in the next few weeks to see the vert spread. I am using RL16 pushing 140 ELD-Ms at just under 2800 out of a 22 inch barrel. I am in the same boat in that the rifle and load I developed can do better then I am currently capable of especially under time pressure of a match.

 

[CZp-01]

Tagged for reference

 

[slodsm]

Thanks very much, and I will check out the OCW.
For comparison, this was the same load, this morning, at 200 yards.
Kinda falls to shit.
What I have been doing it 3 back to back 10 shot Satterlee load tests, and looking for plateaus in the graphs. Trying to find the ones that are comcistent over the 3 ten shot stings can be a challenge.
After that, I kinda do an OCW test I guess, where I vary the load inside those plateaus and shoot for the tightest groups. What I haven’t done however, is pay much attention to how the groups pattern around the point of aim. I have read that is what I’m ultimately supposed to look for.
Still .83MOA, but given how consisten my muzzle velocity is, and it only being 200 yards, I'd hoped for a lot less vertical spread.

Curious man, did you chrono these 5 as well? It won’t make a giant difference at only 200 yards but if you’re chambering a round and trying to find your POA again, you may be letting them cook in the chamber a bit at the longer distance trying to dial in the perfect shot and it will change up muzzle velocity from one in a hot chamber for 10 seconds one time and 30 seconds the next.

Just a thought.

 

[Tin Shot]

Having just purchased a Savage 110 desert tacticle in 6.5 Creedmoor, I'm grateful for any advise on standard factory loads and hand loads for this rifle.
Use is solely long range steel shooting and silhouette steels as well.
Can I use the info for the Savage 12 models for the newer 110 's now out with the long barrel

 

[slodsm]

For factory loads or hand loads?

Factory is all loaded to saami spec and will be fine in whatever.
Handloads I wouldn’t even use in an identical rifle with a different lot number of powder without starting low and working up. Too many variables from chamber to chamber.

 

[Tin Shot]

For factory loads or hand loads?

Factory is all loaded to saami spec and will be fine in whatever.
Handloads I wouldn’t even use in an identical rifle with a different lot number of powder without starting low and working up. Too many variables from chamber to chamber.

What factory ammo has anyoneshot through a savage 110 6.5 Creedmoor 24 inch barrel

 

[slodsm]

It’s difficult to beat the Hornady American gunner for the price. You should have no problem shooting sub moa groups with it and banging steel and long range.

 

[Niles Coyote]

Johnny's Reloading Beach just posted a temperature test on this new powder in the Creedmoor

 

[105gr]

Wonder why he didnt test it against only powders that are "temp stable"? Who cares if its more stable than a "temp sensitive" powder?

 

[Tokay444]

Curious man, did you chrono these 5 as well? It won’t make a giant difference at only 200 yards but if you’re chambering a round and trying to find your POA again, you may be letting them cook in the chamber a bit at the longer distance trying to dial in the perfect shot and it will change up muzzle velocity from one in a hot chamber for 10 seconds one time and 30 seconds the next.

Just a thought.

I didn’t, but I am very conscientious of exactly that. Heating up a round in the chamber. So much in fact, I’ve actually pulled a couple out and thrown one from the box in instead, if I’ve chambered it and then taken more than a few seconds to set back up again, but very good point.
I don’t normally send my bolt forward until I’m really ready.

 

[Nimothy]

What factory ammo has anyoneshot through a savage 110 6.5 Creedmoor 24 inch barrel

If you have trouble finding American gunner academy sells hornady black in 6.5 creed I’m 90% sure it’s the exact same thing for about the same price +/- a couple bucks

 

[toxic]

Started development with RL26 since I managed to score 2lbs from brunos. Shot with a 26" PVA built ARC nucleus BA, with a griffin 30 cal paladin can.

Virgin Lapua SRP
CCI#450
Hornady 147gr ELDM
Reloder 26
2.80" roughly .150 jump

46.5gr
AVG 2796
ES 23.73
SD 9.41
~.66"

46.8gr
AVG 2823
ES 24.23
SD 8.88
~.84"

47.1gr
AVG 2846
ES 20.1
SD 8.62
~.89"

47.4gr
AVG 2873
ES 16.5
SD 7.37
~.60 (4 shots, had one fail to go off)

47.7gr
AVG 2895
ES 32.12
SD 12.5
~.48"

48.0gr
AVG 2916
ES 30.87
SD 11.97
~.61"

48.3gr
AVG 2945
ES 29.9
SD 14.38
~.48"

Brass still looks excellent. No sticky bolt, and primers are still rounded. Bullets were deformed pretty good to get 2.80 even at 46.5gr. I'm thinking working in the 47.7-48.3 range. ES/SD weren't the best but had very similar POI.

Brass goes 46.5 on left to 48.3 on right.