I have a 6.5 creed with 1200 rounds I’m taking off next week
I have a 6.5 creed with 1200 rounds I’m taking off next week
How much are you going to be asking for that barrel. I would be willing to sell my 400 round old 308 if I can get a 6.5
Not sure yet. Let me think about it and get back to you. I still need to take it off, extra time has just been scarce for me lately
I have a dedicated case for each rifle that houses the rifle specific items (mags, sling, bipod etc) and then a rolling bag that goes to the range no matter what gun I am shooting. That houses the universal items like ear and eye pro,fix it sticks tool kit, cleaning tools, note pad, Kestrel, LRF, Magnetospeed, batteries, rear bags etc.
Hello, I haven’t posted in awhile, I have a question for you gurus. I’m thinking about getting a magnum RPR in 300 PRC or 338 Lapua as I may have place to shoot too a mile. Curious which is better round looking online really can’t find comparison between the two.
Greetings everyone.....first post here.
I have a PRP in .308 with about 50 rds through it. I like it but noticed extraction issues. It is really hard to extract after certain shots. Not every shot fired but it happens quite often. Federal GMM ammo. I've cleaned the chamber and it's spotless with a barrel scope.
Anyone have the same issues?
I have a PRP in .308 with about 50 rds through it. I like it but noticed extraction issues. It is really hard to extract after certain shots. Not every shot fired but it happens quite often. Federal GMM ammo. I've cleaned the chamber and it's spotless with a barrel scope.
Anyone have the same issues?
Interesting. I tried the same factory ammo in my RPR .308 years back when I first bought it. It didn’t end up liking it but I had no extraction issues. Have you tried other ammo? Nosler custom competition worked very well. The brass has a thinner wall. Doesn’t exactly fix the problem but may work better.
Anyone runnin a 6.5 prc rpr yet?
Im wanting one but I’m worried I’ll have to seat longer bullets too deep for the mag
Im wanting one but I’m worried I’ll have to seat longer bullets too deep for the mag
The AICS P mag can be loaded to 2.88 from all info I have found and ARC metal mag can be loaded to 2.96 from info I have found
I suspect the GGM brass is too soft. Quite a few years ago I witnessed the .308 168 GMM give hard extraction.
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I've not had ANY problems with the Federal brass either. I've reloaded them 10 times (mostly mild loads, close to how Federal loads their GMM cartridges) and never had an extraction issue in my RPR .308 . . . except one time during load development, I had a very hot load showing pressure signs and one of those cases did get stuck and had to use a rod down the bore to knock it out.
I recently purchased a Gen 3 6.5 and had picked up a Viper PST Gen 1 6-24X50. I ended up getting the optic for a ridiculous price which is why I went with it. I am finally getting around to purchasing rings for it. I was looking at the Vortex and Seekins rings. Any advice on Ring height? I was looking at the Seekins 1.45 AR High set.
Thanks
Thanks
Has anyone tried to considerably lighten one of these? What do they weigh with a proof carbon barrel? I'd guess around 8.5?
Well ordered a RPR 300 PRC yesterday, should have it in the next week or so. Now have decide what scope I want for it.
Did a search and didn't find much.... just a factory recall notice thing about the early bolt shrouds. My RPR 6.5 didn't fall in that group of serial numbers.
I've got a gen 2 with about 3700 rounds through it. Lately, I've had a few instances of light primer strikes with a failure to fire. I run factory ammo.
I broke the bolt down not long ago for its first cleaning ever. I was surprised at clean it was inside (nothing really to clean). The light strikes happened before the cleaning. And, just yesterday, I had another light strike. Is it possible the firing pin needs to be replaced? Other causes?
Any ideas or input? Thanks!
I've got a gen 2 with about 3700 rounds through it. Lately, I've had a few instances of light primer strikes with a failure to fire. I run factory ammo.
I broke the bolt down not long ago for its first cleaning ever. I was surprised at clean it was inside (nothing really to clean). The light strikes happened before the cleaning. And, just yesterday, I had another light strike. Is it possible the firing pin needs to be replaced? Other causes?
Any ideas or input? Thanks!
Not sure why you would want to lighten one. The rifle is surely not designed as a hunting rifle in anyof the supplied calibers. One of the highlights to the RPR in my mind is the ease of shooting it. The added weight is one of the things that i believe makes it easy to shoot. Without the weight (particularly in magnum/high velocity calibers) I dont think it would be as easy and fun to shoot.
I think it's a viable alternative to the sig cross with a bit of modification. It has a folding stock already, and with a carbon barrel, light stock, and handguard swap I think it could get to a pretty handy weight. Probably not 6.5 lbs light, but I bet in the 7's.
So, you want to spend at LEAST half as much again what a Sig Cross would cost; chop, lighten, a heavy, accurate, long range type rifle; so you had a "viable alternative" to the Cross? For hunting? I know modification is the name of the game, and I'm really not trying to be a dick, but I'm missing something here. I honestly don't get it. I absolutely love my 2 RPR's (6.5/.338 LM) but I feel there's a lot better actions out there to build a short, light weight, chassis type hunting/crossover rifle with.
I think you could get one to a reasonable crossover between the sig (which isn't even available yet) and a full custom / aftermarket folding chassis. It was just a thought, and maybe isn't practical, but I think would be an interesting project. This platform is easy to work on, parts are available, etc...
Granted. But personally I always look at the price point too and for me I didn't feel there was enough value added for the money spent. Absolutely nothing wrong with a project though!
While I absolutely love my RPR's, as does pretty much everyone here, the sore spot of the rifle is pretty much the heart of the rifle. The infamous "zipper" action. My 6.5 is this way, my .338 LM not so much. Don't know whether it's just better machining the longer they make these or maybe because of different machining on a magnum action.? Not sure, but still rather annoying. I've gotten used to it so I don't pay attention to it much anymore but, still annoying! That's what I meant with the better action comment above.
Might need a new pin. Try a AO firing pin. It’s a great replacement.
Mine weighed around 15 lbs with a razor amg in a spuhr. The proof probably took off about 2-2.5 lbs.
I have one of those on my "wish list" at the AO website.
Figured I'd be getting one eventually.
Big thumbs up for some ARC magazines I received today. I promptly stuffed 10 rounds into each one of them and fed them through my 6.5 RPR. Feeding effort was exceptionally smooth. They were noticeably smoother feeding than my metal AICS mags and the P-mags that came with the rifle. Single loading with the empty magazine inserted wasn't a problem at all. The ARC mags drop free with no problem. Highly recommended!
Glad you posted this! Was just looking at the ARC's today, thinking about getting a couple. Been using the OEM's, not having any problems, but have been loading just to mag length. Good groups, but about time to start fine tuning and load closer to the lands and see what happens. OF COURSE they're the pricier of the 3 options, but oh well.
I have one of those on my "wish list" at the AO website.
Worth the money. Mine ran good today after installing a new proof barrel. Nice solid strikes on the primers
Despite being the pricier of 3 options, it is refreshing to find out that the extra investment pays off very well in fit and function.
As far as chasing the lands, I run Berger 130 AR Hybrids 2860fps at 2.800". They are an absolute hammer despite jumping .060" to the lands. 3"-4" groups at 800 yards on cloudy days (no mirage) is a regular occurrence. I have no reason to chase the lands!
Looks like mine's jumping about .045", not bad really. And, I'm satisfied with the groups. But, nice weather's coming, and since I'm retired, plenty of time to do a little chasing!!
I bought my first RPR (308) when I could not financially build a Rem 700 and get the same value that I get with my RPR. Now I am looking at going with 6.5 Creedmoor, and try as I may, I still cannot seem to financially put together another Rem 700 for the same value I could get in the RPR.
Long of the short, it looks as though I will be adding another RPR to the stable, a 6.5CM. Has there been any real changes platform for 2019/2020 model years? Of course I read and participate in this thread, but cannot say for certain that I have read about anything new beyond the Gen III's. Of course I know of the 6.5 PRC's etc, but I am leaning to Creedmoor only.
Long of the short, it looks as though I will be adding another RPR to the stable, a 6.5CM. Has there been any real changes platform for 2019/2020 model years? Of course I read and participate in this thread, but cannot say for certain that I have read about anything new beyond the Gen III's. Of course I know of the 6.5 PRC's etc, but I am leaning to Creedmoor only.
Just placed a back-order with Bullet Central for the Berger hybrid boat tail 109 grain 6mm. Looking forward to trying them in my .243 RPR.
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I can't add any meaningful info to this thread, other than to say I ordered a gen 3 300 WM RPR a few days ago. I'm so damn excited, I can't stand myself. I'm so looking forward to scoping that thing and spending some quality time cuddled up with it.
I will be rebarreling my Ruger RPR 338 Lapua soon. I'm NOT interested in changing cartridge to an Improved or XC. I predominantly shoot 300 grain Berger Hybrid and 285 Grain ELD-M bullets and have hits just past 2k yards . I want to shoot a few ELR matches and would like to hear some thoughts on manufacture, rifling type, twist, and length. Thanks!
Several years ago, I had my bolt (and LRI shroud) Microslicked by a vendor either here or on the FB RPR forum. It runs very smoothly, no zipper and has held up well. IIRC it is a Cerakote product so anyone doing that can give you the info.
I am wanting to change my RPR 20 inch .308 barrel and with 24 or 26 6.5 and was wondering if I go with prefit proof barrel is it just install with go and no go gauges for head space and then im done. I have also found barrel blanks have to be machined and installed by smith is that correct
Yeah, that's pretty much it. Except, it'd be a good idea to have a torque wrench to get the proper torque on the barrel nut.
I swapped out my .308 factory barrel for a 26" Krieger barrel. It took me about 1/2 hr. from start to finish.
I just put a proof cf 6.5 prefit on my RPR. It was an easy process. If you get a cf barrel make sure you put most of the ss part of the barrel near the shoulder in the vise with a toilet paper roll or something along the lines not to damage the cf. Also make sure you tighten the vise enough so the barrel doesn’t spin in the vise while torquing and damage the cf spindles that way. I used PTG go, no go and field gauges with 60 ft lbs on the barrel nut. No issues chambering and shooting.
I'll be looking for a barrel change out soon myself. Testing my new Teslong. Looks like this barrel owes me nothing.
how many rounds down that pipe?
My take on good prefit barrels would be
1 LRI
2 Proof
3 PVA
4 Kreiger
Pretty much anything will be better than the factory one, but it is a decent barrel to learn with.
Not necessarily in that order. If I could find a cheap proof Pre-Fit on sale I’d probably buy that first. If I can’t then I’d buy an LRI. Depending on the time of year josh has some prefit available at PVA for a really good price. me personally I’m leaning towards an LRI for my next barrel.
