Accuracy International Picture Thread

#7,501
96C said:
@Nik H
When mine starts to gum up, clean the bolt stop on the left hand side (RH bolt) from the inside. Clean and oil, and the bolt stop channel on the bolt.
Click to expand...
I cleaned the inside of the action and bolt stop. A shit ton of carbon came off. Put a little bit of oil on the surface of the bolt stop and lubed the channel that the stop rides in. Also lubed the surface of the lugs.

Runs smooth again. Cycled it 25 times and still seems OK.

How often do people clean the inside of the action??

I really thank everyone for the advice!
 
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#7,502
Nik H said:
I cleaned the inside of the action and bolt stop. A shit ton of carbon came off. Put a little bit of oil on the surface of the bolt stop and lubed the channel that the stop rides in. Also lubed the surface of the lugs.

Runs smooth again. Cycled it 25 times and still seems OK.

How often do people clean the inside of the action??

I really thank everyone for the advice!
Click to expand...
I clean the inside of the action with a cotton patch (just with my fingertip) after every match. Takes all of 30 seconds to do. Same with the bolt body. It’s already out of the action, so I wipe it down to remove any debris, then re-oil or grease if necessary. I’ve never had a gummy bolt in the time I’ve been shooting an AI. Like anything, a small amount of preventative maintenance goes a long way to not having issues in the middle of a match.
 
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#7,503
Nik H said:
How often do people clean the inside of the action??
Click to expand...

Cleaning the action is one of those things that's fairly quick to do, not overly painful and keeps things running well. I give the action a good wipe out internally before a big day of shooting and if it's been really dirty or wet. I generally use a silicone impregnated cloth that both cleans the crap out and also lightly lubes it, not to the point where it attracts extra gunk.

With the bolt stop, you can depress the external action side button all the way in. Pushing it in 100% pulls the bolt stop out away from the inside of the action, allowing you to get that the unseen areas that tend to build up with crud a bit, especially if you've oiled the hell out of it.

I put the cloth on my finger and work the inside of the action where the bolt stop protrudes and along the length, including the feed ramps and try to get into the first part of the lug area with my little finger.

Bolt lugs, keep them clean. Make sure no pins are sticking out, I haven't had this issue but it happens all the time on work pistols.
Bolt face, scrub with the toothbrush to keep brass shavings out from the extractor area etc, don't oil it.
Bolt spring, wipe it down from time to time. If you blow a primer, open the bolt up and clean it all out, you'll probably find the disc.

I have been using 'Tuf Glide' by Sentry with the needle applicator on all my rifles for over a decade, it's a dry lube.

IF you really want to get excited, take the barrel off, take the front end tube off and you can get access to the quickloc area and threads.
 
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#7,507
why change the oil when you can just replace the whole engine and get new oil with it?

1610381560561.gif
 
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#7,513
Nik H said:
I cleaned the inside of the action and bolt stop. A shit ton of carbon came off. Put a little bit of oil on the surface of the bolt stop and lubed the channel that the stop rides in. Also lubed the surface of the lugs.

Runs smooth again. Cycled it 25 times and still seems OK.

How often do people clean the inside of the action??

I really thank everyone for the advice!
Click to expand...
My bolt gets sticky like you describe every 3 or 4 range sessions, clean it up and back up running, Ijust make it part of my regular maint, doesn't take long if you stay on top of it.
 
#7,519
JB.IC said:
Did a quick search and didn’t get any response but anyone running a 33XC?
Click to expand...
Yes I did run 33xc for awhile. The two things I found was you really need to bush the bolt to maximize the potential of that cartridge and I think actually slightly torquing the barrel makes a difference on accuracy when running a cartridge like that. I had a couple 33xc barrels I messed with and one I could never quite get it to shoot the way I wanted but the other shot quite well. I eventually ended up building a dedicated 37xc rifle but adding a 33xc barrel to your AXMC fleet definitely gets you an advantage over 338 Lapua or Norma
 
#7,520
Bravo6niner said:
Yes I did run 33xc for awhile. The two things I found was you really need to bush the bolt to maximize the potential of that cartridge and I think actually slightly torquing the barrel makes a difference on accuracy when running a cartridge like that. I had a couple 33xc barrels I messed with and one I could never quite get it to shoot the way I wanted but the other shot quite well. I eventually ended up building a dedicated 37xc rifle but adding a 33xc barrel to your AXMC fleet definitely gets you an advantage over 338 Lapua or Norma
Click to expand...

I’m going to buy an AXSR so the small firing pin should be covered. I’m actually a fan of torquing a barrel down over the quickloc. I’m going to experiment with what you said anyways.

Was your barrel a Schneider P5 barrel by chance?
 
#7,523
JB.IC said:
solids or jacketed bullets?
Click to expand...
I mostly ran solids. Had a .100 freebore on both barrels. A longer freebore would be better if your mostly running jacketed. 285 flatlines have pretty awesome performance. I ran a 8-7 gain twist and a 9 twist. Can’t say I seen much difference between the two but a 7 twist was probably to fast really
 
#7,524
Bravo6niner said:
I mostly ran solids. Had a .100 freebore on both barrels. A longer freebore would be better if your mostly running jacketed. 285 flatlines have pretty awesome performance. I ran a 8-7 gain twist and a 9 twist. Can’t say I seen much difference between the two but a 7 twist was probably to fast really
Click to expand...

I have a 7twist for solid 285 badlands and a 9 twist for 300gn Bergers.

I was reading this last week from Facebook
8D280E7E-073A-4B10-A05D-80D7D7A8D451.jpeg


wonder if that was a typo .250 or .225. I’ll ask Tubb
 
#7,526
Krob95 said:
Anyone have a low round count factory 308 barrel on their AT and can measure the cbto with a 175gr berger OTM or 175gr SMK?
Click to expand...

Everyone will get a different measurement depending on what comparator they use and how close to the rifling they load. What exactly are you trying to do?
 
#7,527
General comparison. The proof prefit I had was newish (250 rounds) and was 30 thou shorter with the same bullet vs this newer lothar walther factory barrel (<200 rounds). Just curious if the factory AT barrel have a longer freebore vs the proof prefits.
 
#7,542
Red Pill said:
I like looking at where other people have their shoulder stocks and cheek rests set up. That guy, second from the right, must have some pretty funky anatomy, eh?
Click to expand...

You’d be surprised how much more comfortable it is to put the butt pad up that high.

And you’re seeing more and more people keep their cheek pad all the way down or out of the way. Use more of a chin rest vs cheek rest.
 
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