Absolutely sfp if your shooting 6.5cm or 6cm... Honestly I went sfp on all my bolts just easier
Absolutely sfp if your shooting 6.5cm or 6cm... Honestly I went sfp on all my bolts just easier
Yes, 6.5 cm and a 308 inbound. Hopefully I can find the SFP complete assembly. Thanks
Lightest reasonable setup I could go with for a team match. 16lbs 9.2oz with bipod. 15lbs 10.6oz without. I’ll be able to drop another 7.3oz switching from the 338Ultra to the DOMINUS when it gets released from jail in February.
Nightforce ATACR 4-16x42
Badger Unimount
16-3/4” Bartlien 1:10 .308 barrel
338 Ultra
Atlas Cal w/ RRS BTC Pro
Nightforce ATACR 4-16x42
Badger Unimount
16-3/4” Bartlien 1:10 .308 barrel
338 Ultra
Atlas Cal w/ RRS BTC Pro
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Action, bolt, and tall action rail in case anyone is interested in the weight.
2 lb 13 oz
2 lb 13 oz
Question for the AI gurus
The bolt on my AT has suddenly developed some significant drag when working the action. It is almost like there was syrup on it. Not smooth like it used to be. No issues with operation but I miss the slick, smooth operation. Not really sure why. I have tried cleaning it with a carbon remover. Also tried putting a little KG gun oil on the raceways that are cut into the body and on the bottom of the housing at the rear. The bolt body does not feel sticky to me at all.
Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?
The bolt on my AT has suddenly developed some significant drag when working the action. It is almost like there was syrup on it. Not smooth like it used to be. No issues with operation but I miss the slick, smooth operation. Not really sure why. I have tried cleaning it with a carbon remover. Also tried putting a little KG gun oil on the raceways that are cut into the body and on the bottom of the housing at the rear. The bolt body does not feel sticky to me at all.
Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?
What is the condition of the bolt stop? The bolt body is guided by that, so if it is dirty or has a burr in it that could cause a rough feeling.
Did you clean the inside of the action itself? The bolt rides on the bolt stop and the outside surface of the bolt lugs, oiling the flutes on the bolt body won’t do anything.
Yeah, that’s why I said “reasonable”. The 338 Ultra is barely a pound. And you need the weight forward of the action from the top rail to help balance the rifle out. Especially when I swap to the Dominus and cut more weight.
I tried without the top rail and with a heavier suppressor and this was the best all rounded setup. Otherwise it is rear end heavy.
@Nik H
When mine starts to gum up, clean the bolt stop on the left hand side (RH bolt) from the inside. Clean and oil, and the bolt stop channel on the bolt.
When mine starts to gum up, clean the bolt stop on the left hand side (RH bolt) from the inside. Clean and oil, and the bolt stop channel on the bolt.
A shot in the dark but I would imagine the bolt stop is integral to the bolt release which should, in your case, be on the right side of the receiver.
The button you push on the side of the action to remove the bolt... That's also the bolt stop....
This groove that runs the length of the bolt and opens up at the rear of the bolt is the channel the bolt stop rides in...
Thank you sir. I have tried a thin film of oil in that channel but it doesn't help. I am going to clean the bolt stop from the inside as suggested to see if that helps
@Nik H Check the roll pins in the bolt body and make sure none have worked out of their hole. The set screw on my cocking piece backed out and let the firing pin rotate. The firing pin would hit the roll pin and push it out. I dont know if yours is the same, mine is a mk3.
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I cleaned the inside of the action and bolt stop. A shit ton of carbon came off. Put a little bit of oil on the surface of the bolt stop and lubed the channel that the stop rides in. Also lubed the surface of the lugs.
Runs smooth again. Cycled it 25 times and still seems OK.
How often do people clean the inside of the action??
I really thank everyone for the advice!
I clean the inside of the action with a cotton patch (just with my fingertip) after every match. Takes all of 30 seconds to do. Same with the bolt body. It’s already out of the action, so I wipe it down to remove any debris, then re-oil or grease if necessary. I’ve never had a gummy bolt in the time I’ve been shooting an AI. Like anything, a small amount of preventative maintenance goes a long way to not having issues in the middle of a match.
Cleaning the action is one of those things that's fairly quick to do, not overly painful and keeps things running well. I give the action a good wipe out internally before a big day of shooting and if it's been really dirty or wet. I generally use a silicone impregnated cloth that both cleans the crap out and also lightly lubes it, not to the point where it attracts extra gunk.
With the bolt stop, you can depress the external action side button all the way in. Pushing it in 100% pulls the bolt stop out away from the inside of the action, allowing you to get that the unseen areas that tend to build up with crud a bit, especially if you've oiled the hell out of it.
I put the cloth on my finger and work the inside of the action where the bolt stop protrudes and along the length, including the feed ramps and try to get into the first part of the lug area with my little finger.
Bolt lugs, keep them clean. Make sure no pins are sticking out, I haven't had this issue but it happens all the time on work pistols.
Bolt face, scrub with the toothbrush to keep brass shavings out from the extractor area etc, don't oil it.
Bolt spring, wipe it down from time to time. If you blow a primer, open the bolt up and clean it all out, you'll probably find the disc.
I have been using 'Tuf Glide' by Sentry with the needle applicator on all my rifles for over a decade, it's a dry lube.
IF you really want to get excited, take the barrel off, take the front end tube off and you can get access to the quickloc area and threads.
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I didn’t know you had to clean these things, this is good info!
That’s the only reason I bought one...ain’t nobody got time for that
You’re the reason I don’t buy used cars. 20k miles in, “I didn’t realize the oil needed to be changed...”
why change the oil when you can just replace the whole engine and get new oil with it?
You would need a bolt face for it and I have not heard of anyone who's made one for an AI...
I honestly have no idea why you would even want to
If cleaning was really that important, AI would have put that in the first few pages of the manual.
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My bolt gets sticky like you describe every 3 or 4 range sessions, clean it up and back up running, Ijust make it part of my regular maint, doesn't take long if you stay on top of it.
Agreed...I never thought about cleaning the inside of the action...now I will
I can appreciate that. I like different cartridges. However, it doesn't make much sense to shoot a neutered 6.5 out of a platform that the cartridge wasn't designed for. With that said though, to each their own.
showing some love for all the ATs out there
Yes I did run 33xc for awhile. The two things I found was you really need to bush the bolt to maximize the potential of that cartridge and I think actually slightly torquing the barrel makes a difference on accuracy when running a cartridge like that. I had a couple 33xc barrels I messed with and one I could never quite get it to shoot the way I wanted but the other shot quite well. I eventually ended up building a dedicated 37xc rifle but adding a 33xc barrel to your AXMC fleet definitely gets you an advantage over 338 Lapua or Norma
I’m going to buy an AXSR so the small firing pin should be covered. I’m actually a fan of torquing a barrel down over the quickloc. I’m going to experiment with what you said anyways.
Was your barrel a Schneider P5 barrel by chance?
Bartlein and K&P
solids or jacketed bullets?
I mostly ran solids. Had a .100 freebore on both barrels. A longer freebore would be better if your mostly running jacketed. 285 flatlines have pretty awesome performance. I ran a 8-7 gain twist and a 9 twist. Can’t say I seen much difference between the two but a 7 twist was probably to fast really
I have a 7twist for solid 285 badlands and a 9 twist for 300gn Bergers.
I was reading this last week from Facebook
wonder if that was a typo .250 or .225. I’ll ask Tubb
Everyone will get a different measurement depending on what comparator they use and how close to the rifling they load. What exactly are you trying to do?
General comparison. The proof prefit I had was newish (250 rounds) and was 30 thou shorter with the same bullet vs this newer lothar walther factory barrel (<200 rounds). Just curious if the factory AT barrel have a longer freebore vs the proof prefits.
New factory barrel lands at 2.245 with 175 SMK.
....I didn’t even put 2 and 2 together on that post. I’m excited and reserved on the new AI release.
Is there a time and date set for the virtual product launch?
tuesday......so I've heard
Too lazy to ask lol, but I’m sure Frank will announce it.
That a NF ad?
