I thought it might have something to do with the Wilson gages supporting the entire shoulder of a case rather than the circumference at one particular diameter irrespective of shoulder angle. Definitely allowed me to screw a few dies a few thousandths out over time.
I think thats why. Ive noticed this too. I use a mitutoyo with the SAC modular comparator as well as a redding instant indicator with a starrett dial gauge. When I measure my go and no go gauges (+.006 diff) both measure at .0055 - when I use my Wilson, it gets it perfectly. Now when I use the same tools for a different cartridge (both have same shoulder angle), all the tools get it right on the money. I now use the Wilson drop in/Mic for setting up sizing and then the instant indicator to measure a ton of the brass to see if there are any big differences. My sizing is pretty consistent - but I have found brass that wont size properly and I pull that out. Not too many but it does happen on occasion.
I do a ladder test at the beginning when testing a new powder I dont know (which seems to be the norm lately) to get an idea of where the nodes are and where I want to test further. I then do a follow up test with with 3-5 rounds at each charge and look at the SDs/ESs of each as well as difference between charge weights to verify that the node is there. This has worked in the past but Im always open to learning different methods doing things better. What would you recommend - or which one of your videos or posts talks about your method?
Any chance you could drop a link for this entire setup? Had to edit to be more specific, Thanks..This.
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Whats the mechanism for the shoulder? Hard to see from the pic. It looks like my old bullet sorting stand and my Redding Instant Indicator had a baby. I think if I could get my SAC neck shoulder bushing to properly square up in the Instant Indicator, instead of the provided sleeve, it would probably measure to the .0005 properly.This.
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The case is flipped upside down... the shoulder is held on the bottom.
That totally works!!! I get .006 between the go and no go gauge. I think Im going to take this stand and drill a hole to perfectly hold the gauge in place. Ordering a flat contact point to make it a little more sturdy too.
I do. A bore mop one caliber smaller than what I'm working with, and imperial mashed into the end of it. One little twist with not very much imperial in the necks does a fantastic job.
Thanks. Do you mean the imperial wax lube, or their neck lube stuff?
Bryan is extremely thorough and a fantastic bench rest shooter. Good enough that he has been to Lou Murdica’s tunnel on several occasions. You can see it on some of his videos, where in a perfectly controlled condition, he shoots zeros repeatedly.
Yet they lack the mechanical force required to overcome the anvil seat uniformly across hundreds of cases without the tool being damaged or the operator becoming so fatigued he loses the ability to so much as operate a fork afterward. ...and because they are cam driven, you can't feel as precisely as you can feel on something with a 1:1 input to output relationship.
Eric said "they don't know" in reference to the effect of primer seating depth on accuracy. So, he clearly believes that the seating depth of a primer matters for accuracy.
I used the same pocket uniformer on mine and I'm not worried. It changes after firing anyway. I think the CPS allows you to not care about minimal variances in the pocket as long as your using top tier brass.
Not true with a premium hand-primer such as the Sinclair or 21st Century. They have an adjustable hard-stop.
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Congratulations. I'm sure you will love these new tools. I wish I could afford to get the same setup. Might have to wait until next Christmas. Probably worth the wait.
Yes. I seem to have come across other information supporting .0010-.0020 of "crush", as working very well, so this seems to coincide with that.
I'm no expert by any means, but I would guess they are playing the game of aggregate totals.
How did you measure it?
You have my attention
With the back of my calipers. Which I understand isn’t the best method, but it’s what I have at the moment. Even if it’s .002, from what I’ve gathered that could make a difference?
Like Greg said it's basically impossible to get a reading that even close to accurate with the calipers. The variance you get actually exceeds what you would see if you just didn't measure them at all.
Never try to measure anything where you need smaller than +/-.002” discrimination with a caliper. It’s the wrong tool.
