Hide victors of the yard... looking for some suggestions here...

LuckyDuck

LuckyDuck

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    • Nov 4, 2020
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    Pennsylvania
    #1
    I'm looking for some suggestions in getting my yard up to snuff. As a backstory- the house was built in 2023 so the grass for the lawn was put down that fall.

    Presently I'm mostly covered but still "patchy" in some areas where I go down to bare soil & grass (can post pictures if needed).

    In the past year I've placed at least four bags of "weed & feed" down (2 bags each time)...

    1751803574010.png


    Back in April I also "over seeded" and put down something like 60lbs of grass seed. Something like this- specific to the region I'm living in.

    1751803748492.png


    Yet I'm not having much luck filling in these patches this year and I'm at my wits end. I put down more grass seed than reasonable and no sooner that I do it the next week the birds are having an orgy in my yard eating it all up.


    One thing I haven't done (due to expense & logistics) is to commit to aerating the lawn prior to over seeding.

    So moving into Autumn- my question to the Hide is (1) is this battle 'normal' for a 'new' lawn? (2) am I better off just throwing in the proverbial towel and hiring a company like Tru-Green to essentially do what I've been doing but with a business "guarantee"?

    Anyone else gone through this frustration? I'd love a perfect/lush lawn (don't get me wrong) but it isn't vanity I'm chasing after as much as it takes me 3 hours to mow the yard with a push mower and it's absolute "hell on wheels" pushing the mower through the dirt patches & against the natural inclines of the yard. One section of the yard I'm all but ready to throw in the towel and just plant a hedge of roses or some sort of crap before pushing the mower against that incline gives me a literal heart attack.

    -LD
     

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    #2
    Man I am in the same boat. My grass is horrible. I’ve spent money aerating, overseading and all in between. The dirt in my yard is horrible and dries out fast. I am going to try switching to zoysia and see if it deals with the shitty soil better. If not I will have to start watering more and slowly try to bring in something to help hold water in the dirt. I have thought about having Astro turf installed in the front. I have a very small yard. I am not sure if the county would allow it as some of the utilities probably run under the lawn. I also know if they had to tear it up for repairs they would not fix or replace it.
     
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    #4
    This is what I'm talking about-

    By & large my backyard looks... "ok". Let's call this "Exhibit A".

    1751805277442.png


    What has me pulling my hair out though is the last 5% or so that looks like this:

    1751805376741.png


    1751805411064.png


    1751805443782.png


    Again- my question is only partially/minimally vanity driven. Of course I'd love to have the most lush lawn in the neighborhood as a "pride of ownership" type of thing but the dirt is at least an inch deep from the grass that does grow and I'm not exaggerating when I say I'm concerned that I'm going to give myself a heart attack pushing the mower up and through these areas.

    If it was all lush and thick grass, I'd be "gliding" the push mower through a yard as smooth as a baby's bottom but these patches remind me of the race for Baghdad after blowing up all the infrastructure.

    Is this a Jedi "patience" thing or does anyone have some 'secret sauce' on what to do with this relatively young yard?

    Reckon it'd only be polite to end this with saying I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions the Hide might have on the topic.

    -LD
     
    #8
    EddieNFL said:
    I’ve asked serval guys in the landscaping business. All recommend avoiding products at Lowe’s/HD.
    Click to expand...
    I'll say this much for HD products... this product absolutely fucks...


    It's like having Agent Orange in a "magic wand" and it wrecks absolute havoc within a day. If you purchase it from Sams Club or Costco, it comes with 2 "refills"... Not even going to lie- I wore latex gloves last week while refilling the bottle because this stuff is absolutely nasty and the last thing I wanted was it on my skin before I diluted it something like 1 part per 30 of water.

    ETA: A sincere thank you to @EddieNFL for the recommendation.
     
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    #9
    308Gunner said:
    Take a soil sample and get it analyzed, then have a fertilizer mixed for your needs.
    Click to expand...
    Just trying to understand your comment here- do you think all I'm missing is adding whatever nutrients to the soil to get the grass that's there to spread?

    I know soil samples are HUGE in farming especially in determining things like alkaline levels etc...

    It's not a bad suggestion by any means just wanted to clarify that I was understanding your comment correctly is all.

    ETA: Thank you @308Gunner for the suggestion.
     
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    #10
    LuckyDuck said:
    This is what I'm talking about-

    By & large my backyard looks... "ok". Let's call this "Exhibit A".

    View attachment 8722561

    What has me pulling my hair out though is the last 5% or so that looks like this:

    View attachment 8722562

    View attachment 8722564

    View attachment 8722565

    Again- my question is only partially/minimally vanity driven. Of course I'd love to have the most lush lawn in the neighborhood as a "pride of ownership" type of thing but the dirt is at least an inch deep from the grass that does grow and I'm not exaggerating when I say I'm concerned that I'm going to give myself a heart attack pushing the mower up and through these areas.

    If it was all lush and thick grass, I'd be "gliding" the push mower through a yard as smooth as a baby's bottom but these patches remind me of the race for Baghdad after blowing up all the infrastructure.

    Is this a Jedi "patience" thing or does anyone have some 'secret sauce' on what to do with this relatively young yard?

    Reckon it'd only be polite to end this with saying I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions the Hide might have on the topic.

    -LD
    Click to expand...
    You can't expect anything other than broadleaf weeds to grow on what looks like dirty gravel. Hate to say it, but you need several truckloads of topsoil and a tiller.
    My neighbor grows a few acres of hay for his horses on top rated soil around his house. Zero maintenance and looks like a golf course before it gets tall and after each harvest. If you have good soil, then the right stuff for this soil and location will establish itself with some patience.

    I am still in the land development and earth moving phase on my property and care more about slope stabilization than looks. But it is very obvious at this stage that good topsoil is key. You can't just spread rocky excavation detritus around the house like most contractors do. When I carved the access roads along the faint remnants of a one track path, I created separate piles for fill dirt and top soil. Wherever I alter the contour, I build up new layers. Rocks, fill, topsoil.
     
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    #11
    You are wasting time and money without first doing a soil test. Most of the big bag stuff just puts a little of everything in it and hope it works for you. Sandy soils needs different fertilizers than loamy or clay. It’s cheap and easy to have a soil test done.
     

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    #12
    alpine44 said:
    You can't expect anything other than broadleaf weeds growing on what looks like dirty gravel. Hate to say it, but you need several truckloads of topsoil and a tiller.
    My neighbor grows a few acres of hay for his horses on top rated soil around his house. Zero maintenance and looks like a golf course before it gets tall and after each harvest. If you have good soil, then the right stuff for this soil and location will establish itself with some patience.
    Click to expand...
    I really do appreciate the input & you're not going to hurt my feelings. I wouldn't have posted this question in the Pit if I was thin skinned. I know I'll take my licks but I'm also going to get some really solid answers as well.

    So your suggestion is topsoil and aeration then? Again no hurt feelings either way but I need to get these dirt gaps closed before my heart gives out pushing the mower another year.

    ETA: Just wanted to add a quick thank you to @alpine44 for their time and recommendation.
     
    #13
    Pre64 said:
    You are wasting time and money without first doing a soil test. Most of the big bag stuff just puts a little of everything in it and hope it works for you. Sandy soils needs different fertilizers than loamy or clay. It’s cheap and easy to have a soil test done.
    Click to expand...
    That's exactly what I'm shooting for. Just looking for the surest & most effective approach to achieve it.

    Again, vanity is a minor component but if anyone has had to push a mower over the pictures I shared previously you'll understand why I'm so frustrated and looking for advice.

    ETA: Don't think I said this previously but wanted to say thank you @Pre64 for the suggestion.
     
    #14
    LuckyDuck said:
    I really do appreciate the input & you're not going to hurt my feelings. I wouldn't have posted this question in the Pit if I was thin skinned. I know I'll take my licks but I'm also going to get some really solid answers as well.

    So your suggestion is topsoil and aeration then? Again no hurt feelings either way but I need to get these dirt gaps closed before my heart gives out pushing the mower another year.
    Click to expand...
    Your topsoil may be fine for growing grass, if you have a small yard it might be feasible, but good topsoil is expensive. First and foremost you need a soil test.
     
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    #15
    LuckyDuck said:
    Just trying to understand your comment here- do you think all I'm missing is adding whatever nutrients to the soil to get the grass that's there to spread?

    I know soil samples are HUGE in farming especially in determining things like alkaline levels etc...

    It's not a bad suggestion by any means just wanted to clarify that I was understanding your comment correctly is all.

    ETA: Thank you @308Gunner for the suggestion.
    Click to expand...
    Yes once you figure out what the lawn needs then you can grow grass.
     
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    #17
    Pre64 said:
    You are wasting time and money without first doing a soil test. Most of the big bag stuff just puts a little of everything in it and hope it works for you. Sandy soils needs different fertilizers than loamy or clay. It’s cheap and easy to have a soil test done.
    Click to expand...
    1751808583235.png


    Nice. I like what looks like interspersed clover. A natural degree of species variety makes lawn more resilient to precipitation and temperature extremes.
     
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    #18
    You will never grow shit in gravel no matter what you put down... well you can grow weeds there as you have found out. Going to need to bring in some soil, have it tilled in, etc... aeration is a good step, but IMO that soil is to shitty to even aerate. I dont think most guys would want to bring their equipment in there for fear of breaking something.

    You can buy Lesco branded fertilizer at Home Depot. Its the same stuff the pro's use that buy at Site One. Home Depot will generally only carry one type of Lesco thats appropriate for your area.

    Weed and Feed products are complete shit.

    You need to use a pre-emergent in the fall to keep all the weeds from germinating. The usual suspects are not cheap, but they work. For post emergent weeds 24d is the go to and can be bought at just about any farm supply in concentrate form for cheap that you mix with water and spray via whatever method you choose(I have a hose end sprayer). I used to do an early spring and late spring post emergent(24d) application, but then started doing pre-emergent in the fall and that cut down my post emergent use to just one time later in the spring.

    Fertilizer: 3 times per year; full dose in spring, half dose in summer, full dose in fall
    pre-emergent in fall
    post emergent later in the spring on the full lawn and then spot treatment as needed.

    You need to get all weeds killed off for your actual grass to grow and fill in.

    Im about to do my mid summer half dose of fertilizer and do some spot weed killing with 24d in a 2 gallon sprayer.
     
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    #19
    alpine44 said:
    View attachment 8722592

    Nice. I like what looks like interspersed clover. A natural degree of species variety makes lawn more resilient to precipitation and temperature extremes.
    Click to expand...
    Correct on the different types, I’ve tried straight BG, straight rye they all have their advantages and disadvantages, a mixture seems to work the best in my area. If I had city water it would be different . But I’m left to mother nature for water.
     
    #20
    First off- I really appreciate everyone's suggestions...

    That said- let's make this one of those "rare" internet posts where the OP recognizes that they don't know everything and also realizes that's why they asked the question in the first place. So I'm going to follow the suggestions I've received here...

    To recap (and correct me if I'm wrong)-

    First and foremost- before sinking any more time or money into the yard it sounds like I need to baseline with a soil sample... I'm not sure (just yet) how to get that but I kind of suspected I'd end up that way and will start researching that approach. Until then- I'm going to "hit pause" in putting down any more fertilizer and/or grass seed and I'm certainly done "raking" the dirt areas thinking that's the "magic bullet" in fixing my yard.

    For what little it's likely worth- I sincerely and really do appreciate everyone's suggestions on this quandary I'm tackling. There is a bit of reassurance in hearing that other folks here have gone down the same path and frustrations & appreciate them sharing their stories.

    -LD
     
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    #21
    @LuckyDuck

    Your soil looks like a mix of sand and small aggregate. Do you have brick or block buildings on your site?

    It is damned hard to grow anything in sandy soil. If it is only a couple inches deep (as I would expect from construction residue) you may do well to till it into subsurface soil and get a better growing medium. After that, a soil test will give you guidance on amendments to add for plant health.

    If the area is small you can do the job with a rented or borrowed rototiller. If it is large might hire a fellow to turn it with a single bottom plow, then disc it well.

    I would also suggest just planing a couple rows of blueberries. Lovely ornamentals that love well drained acidic soil. No thorns and delicious fruits. Your local nursery will know which varieties grown well in your area.
     
    #23
    LuckyDuck said:
    First off- I really appreciate everyone's suggestions...

    That said- let's make this one of those "rare" internet posts where the OP recognizes that they don't know everything and also realizes that's why they asked the question in the first place. So I'm going to follow the suggestions I've received here...

    To recap (and correct me if I'm wrong)-

    First and foremost- before sinking any more time or money into the yard it sounds like I need to baseline with a soil sample... I'm not sure (just yet) how to get that but I kind of suspected I'd end up that way and will start researching that approach. Until then- I'm going to "hit pause" in putting down any more fertilizer and/or grass seed and I'm certainly done "raking" the dirt areas thinking that's the "magic bullet" in fixing my yard.

    For what little it's likely worth- I sincerely and really do appreciate everyone's suggestions on this quandary I'm tackling. There is a bit of reassurance in hearing that other folks here have gone down the same path and frustrations & appreciate them sharing their stories.

    -LD
    Click to expand...
    Yes, you are correct in your assessment. Too get a soil sample literally just go dig up some dirt in several places in the yard, some dirt from right on top some down a couple inches. Mix it all up and send it in
     
    #24
    John? said:
    @LuckyDuck

    Your soil looks like a mix of sand and small aggregate. Do you have brick or block buildings on your site?

    It is damned hard to grow anything in sandy soil. If it is only a couple inches deep (as I would expect from construction residue) you may do well to till it into subsurface soil and get a better growing medium. After that, a soil test will give you guidance on amendments to add for plant health.

    If the area is small you can do the job with a rented or borrowed rototiller. If it is large might hire a fellow to turn it with a single bottom plow, then disc it well.

    I would also suggest just planing a couple rows of blueberries. Lovely ornamentals that love well drained acidic soil. No thorns and delicious fruits. Your local nursery will know which varieties grown well in your area.
    Click to expand...
    Full disclosure- I'm not savvy enough to accurately answer your question. Let's chalk this up as one of those "I don't know what I don't know" type of things.

    The foundation of my house... aka the 'basement' I do know is made up from what I believe is called "superior walls". Construction isn't my forte by any means but when I researched it prior to purchasing it seems like they're preconstructed concrete slabs with framing that is put in place as an alternative to "poured concrete walls".

    That might be 100% on point or I could be completely off the proverbial mark but that's how I presently understand the foundation of the house. Regardless- the house is built on the top of a mountain (it's PA so we're not talking Rocky Mountain elevations but maybe 1100' elevation for this Appalachian Mountain.

    I'm planning on renting a rototiller on the other side of the house and just planting something like rosebushes after I've got the ground all torn up because the elevation is too high to mow and I've got to do something with it so mid as well make things "pretty".

    Creepily enough- your comment on blueberries... my backyard (the wooded part) is actually chalk full of what I think are blackberries and that brings in the Deer, Rabbits, and Turkey's thus far this year. With any luck- we'll start seeing black bear out back and then my wife will give me the thumbs up I'm looking for to purchase a Marlin 45-70 SBL as a "bear gun" in case things get wild... but just need evidence of Bears being back there first...

    -LD
     
    #25
    Soil test, bring to 7.0pH and base. Sod or drill seeds. Pick the right grass for your soil. New houses generally get red fescue and rye contractor mix that is crap for longevity but looks good for a few months. Dont't do it until the Fall with just enough time for a good root base before cold. Water the piss out of it next Spring.
     
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    #26
    Jrb572 said:
    Man I am in the same boat. My grass is horrible.
    Click to expand...

    I live in Arizona all that's outside is mud and tumbleweeds. Made the mistake of doing extra grading on my property and the tiny bit of useful topsoil is mostly gone, it's all alkali clay shit now, so can't do anything except cover it with gravel.
     
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    #27
    ggmanning said:
    Soil test, bring to 7.0pH and base. Sod or drill seeds. Pick the right grass for your soil. New houses generally get red fescue and rye contractor mix that is crap for longevity but looks good for a few months. Dont't do it until the Fall with just enough time for a good root base before cold. Water the piss out of it next Spring.
    Click to expand...
    Honest question- just focus on ph and not the nuances like alkaline levels then?
     
    #28
    LuckyDuck said:
    Full disclosure- I'm not savvy enough to accurately answer your question. Let's chalk this up as one of those "I don't know what I don't know" type of things.

    The foundation of my house... aka the 'basement' I do know is made up from what I believe is called "superior walls". Construction isn't my forte by any means but when I researched it prior to purchasing it seems like they're preconstructed concrete slabs with framing that is put in place as an alternative to "poured concrete walls".

    That might be 100% on point or I could be completely off the proverbial mark but that's how I presently understand the foundation of the house. Regardless- the house is built on the top of a mountain (it's PA so we're not talking Rocky Mountain elevations but maybe 1100' elevation for this Appalachian Mountain.

    I'm planning on renting a rototiller on the other side of the house and just planting something like rosebushes after I've got the ground all torn up because the elevation is too high to mow and I've got to do something with it so mid as well make things "pretty".

    Creepily enough- your comment on blueberries... my backyard (the wooded part) is actually chalk full of what I think are blackberries and that brings in the Deer, Rabbits, and Turkey's thus far this year. With any luck- we'll start seeing black bear out back and then my wife will give me the thumbs up I'm looking for to purchase a Marlin 45-70 SBL as a "bear gun" in case things get wild... but just need evidence of Bears being back there first...

    -LD
    Click to expand...
    Superior Walls is a great product especially in areas where access for concrete trucks and concrete pumps is limited.

    If you have an underground basement, then they first dug a hole in which they erected the prefabricated panels on top a compacted gravel bed. After backfilling around the basement walls and pouring the basement floor, they stick built the house on top of floor joists that rest on the rim of the Superior Wall basement "tub".

    The material that was excavated to create the space for the basement needed to go somewhere and from your photos it looks like they spread it where you are trying to grow lawn. That is your main problem.

    I will follow the same construction process as described above for my new home EXCEPT that the excavated material will go somewhere else as fill and the house will be ultimately surrounded by topsoil, sloped away slightly from the house for drainage.

    The builder of your home cut a corner and unfortunately you will have to fix this.
     
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    #29
    BCP said:
    I live in Arizona all that's outside is mud and tumbleweeds. Made the mistake of doing extra grading on my property and the tiny bit of useful topsoil is mostly gone, it's all alkali clay shit now, so can't do anything except cover it with gravel.
    Click to expand...
    Lots of good suggestions being thrown into this thread, maybe you'll snag one or two that'll be helpful .

    As for me- I'm just taking literal notes.. so much good stuff being shared.
     
    #30
    LuckyDuck said:
    Honest question- just focus on ph and not the nuances like alkaline levels then?
    Click to expand...
    pH with lime is the most important and all that the soil sample says to place per area. Different everywhere but for here its N and P+. Unforunately lots of places will need topsoil depending on what grading was done at the site.
     
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    #32
    alpine44 said:
    You can't expect anything other than broadleaf weeds to grow on what looks like dirty gravel. Hate to say it, but you need several truckloads of topsoil and a tiller.
    My neighbor grows a few acres of hay for his horses on top rated soil around his house. Zero maintenance and looks like a golf course before it gets tall and after each harvest. If you have good soil, then the right stuff for this soil and location will establish itself with some patience.

    I am still in the land development and earth moving phase on my property and care more about slope stabilization than looks. But it is very obvious at this stage that good topsoil is key. You can't just spread rocky excavation detritus around the house like most contractors do. When I carved the access roads along the faint remnants of a one track path, I created separate piles for fill dirt and top soil. Wherever I alter the contour, I build up new layers. Rocks, fill, topsoil.
    Click to expand...
    This is exactly where I’m starting at on our new property. There were some shitty rocky pastures that I’m amending the worst parts of. And the “grass” around the house I’m just flat starting over. Re-sloping everything and new topsoil.

    O.P. you ain’t getting what looks like a golf course green outta that soil…
     
    #35
    A soil sample will tell you how much if any lime you may need. It will break down all elements you may or may not need. Typically it will give you 2 categories, large area lbs per acre or lbs per square feet.
     
    #36
    alpine44 said:
    Contact your Ag Extension office. Whatever you are seeding and how you maintain it has to be compatible with the soil and the local climate. If the soil is too shitty you need to fix that first.
    Click to expand...
    This.

    Its all about the soil. I can see from your photos yours is lousy and the way youre going about it youre just wasting time and money.

    Forget the Scott's. First fertilize what youre got. Get some good river bottom topsoil (not the clay mixed with compost crap some sell). Spread at least 2" over the whole yard. Seed it with the seed recommended by your Ag. office. Roll it lightly and water. Keep it watered every couple days until its established. Fertilize every 90 days or so.

    You'll have grass coming out your ass.
     
    #37
    Soil test will help you understand what you are working with but only answers one question. The issue is the small aggregate which will be difficult to grow anything but weeds. That's why it's bare, you are killing the weeds, leaving those bare spots.

    If you aren't expecting a overnight miracle, here is what I would suggest. First, it's very short, not sure if it's just the pictures/angles but it looks like you are scalping the lawn. Put away the bagger, and let the grass get tall, to the point it goes to seed. Then mow high with a mulching kit that leaves all the clippings and head seed. Over a couple of seasons the mulching will build up and provide a layer to help the grass root take hold. The best seed is the seed from the grass that is growing in your lawn already.

    Just my 2 cents.
     
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    #39
    The problem with putting down a layer of good topsoil, without fixing the soil you already have is once the root run through the thin layer of “good” topsoil you will be right back where you are now. Fix what you have first. Down the road you can top dress with good quality topsoil.
     
    #40
    308Gunner said:
    Take a soil sample and get it analyzed, then have a fertilizer mixed for your needs.
    Click to expand...

    LuckyDuck said:
    Just trying to understand your comment here- do you think all I'm missing is adding whatever nutrients to the soil to get the grass that's there to spread?

    I know soil samples are HUGE in farming especially in determining things like alkaline levels etc...

    It's not a bad suggestion by any means just wanted to clarify that I was understanding your comment correctly is all.

    ETA: Thank you @308Gunner for the suggestion.
    Click to expand...

    alpine44 said:
    You can't expect anything other than broadleaf weeds to grow on what looks like dirty gravel. Hate to say it, but you need several truckloads of topsoil and a tiller.
    My neighbor grows a few acres of hay for his horses on top rated soil around his house. Zero maintenance and looks like a golf course before it gets tall and after each harvest. If you have good soil, then the right stuff for this soil and location will establish itself with some patience.

    I am still in the land development and earth moving phase on my property and care more about slope stabilization than looks. But it is very obvious at this stage that good topsoil is key. You can't just spread rocky excavation detritus around the house like most contractors do. When I carved the access roads along the faint remnants of a one track path, I created separate piles for fill dirt and top soil. Wherever I alter the contour, I build up new layers. Rocks, fill, topsoil.
    Click to expand...
    Yep, you need a soil sample test done. Depending on what you are trying to grow most things like a certain acidity level. And even then I typically put down like 1x a year for a couple years.

    LuckyDuck said:
    Honest question- just focus on ph and not the nuances like alkaline levels then?
    Click to expand...

    ggmanning said:
    pH with lime is the most important and all that the soil sample says to place per area. Different everywhere but for here its N and P+. Unforunately lots of places will need topsoil depending on what grading was done at the site.
    Click to expand...
    This. Gravel is not your friend for trying to grow stuff. I feel like for starters, I’d bring in a dozer and mix in/dig up some soil underneath to get rid of the gravel. Add in some topsoil to mix with the other stuff. Then I’d seed or sod..
    OldSalty2 said:
    Soil test will help you understand what you are working with but only answers one question. The issue is the small aggregate which will be difficult to grow anything but weeds. That's why it's bare, you are killing the weeds, leaving those bare spots.

    If you aren't expecting a overnight miracle, here is what I would suggest. First, it's very short, not sure if it's just the pictures/angles but it looks like you are scalping the lawn. Put away the bagger, and let the grass get tall, to the point it goes to seed. Then mow high with a mulching kit that leaves all the clippings and head seed. Over a couple of seasons the mulching will build up and provide a layer to help the grass root take hold. The best seed is the seed from the grass that is growing in your lawn already.

    Just my 2 cents.
    Click to expand...
    This is what I did for years as well. Most people cut way too short!

    Perhaps I should first start with, can you tell us where you live, what kind of grass are you trying to grow, mostly sun or shade? Based on what limited pics I see it seems that your are mostly sun. I’m sure we’d all be glad to help but need a little more info. For sure:

    1) determine what your soil is, can you dig down a bit and take some pics
    2) get a soil test to see what you are working with
    3) if soil is decent and you live in a place where Bermuda or zoysia will grow then I highly suggest it as that stuff will grow on top of damn near concrete but it likes acidic soil.
    4) sod if you can/seed if you need to but make sure to aerate/mix the soils and then cover it. Something a lot of people don’t realize is how easy the seed can be blown/washed away or even eaten by critters like birds.
    5) for sure give it time. Mow higher than you think you need cause this will help on moisture retention etc. taking into account what Old Salty said. It really does help..if you over fertilize when it’s young you may be doing more harm then good.
    6) address drainage problems. Some of what limited photos I have to look at looks like there may be a ton of water running through the area. If so that’s gonna be an issue no matter what you try to grow.

    Can’t wait to see where the journey takes you.
     
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    #41
    SilentStalkr said:
    Yep, you need a soil sample test done. Depending on what you are trying to grow most things like a certain acidity level. And even then I typically put down like 1x a year for a couple years.




    This. Gravel is not your friend for trying to grow stuff. I feel like for starters, I’d bring in a dozer and mix in/dig up some soil underneath to get rid of the gravel. Add in some topsoil to mix with the other stuff. Then I’d seed or sod..

    This is what I did for years as well. Most people cut way too short!

    Perhaps I should first start with, can you tell us where you live, what kind of grass are you trying to grow, mostly sun or shade? Based on what limited pics I see it seems that your are mostly sun. I’m sure we’d all be glad to help but need a little more info. For sure:

    1) determine what your soil is, can you dig down a bit and take some pics
    2) get a soil test to see what you are working with
    3) if soil is decent and you live in a place where Bermuda or zoysia will grow then I highly suggest it as that stuff will grow on top of damn near concrete but it likes acidic soil.
    4) sod if you can/seed if you need to but make sure to aerate/mix the soils and then cover it. Something a lot of people don’t realize is how easy the seed can be blown/washed away or even eaten by critters like birds.
    5) for sure give it time. Mow higher than you think you need cause this will help on moisture retention etc. taking into account what Old Salty said. It really does help..if you over fertilize when it’s young you may be doing more harm then good.
    6) address drainage problems. Some of what limited photos I have to look at looks like there may be a ton of water running through the area. If so that’s gonna be an issue no matter what you try to grow.

    Can’t wait to see where the journey takes you.
    Click to expand...
    For what it's worth- I greatly appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts on this. Lots of good stuff to unpack.

    -LD
     
    #45
    Start reading up some here:

    www.psu.edu

    Choose The Right Grass Seed For Pennsylvania Lawns | Penn State University

    Early fall is the best time to plant new lawns. A turfgrass specialist in Penn State's College of Agricultural Sciences offers tips for choosing seed. "The seed to use depends on whether you want to repair damaged areas or put in a new lawn," says Peter Landschoot, associate professor of...
    www.psu.edu www.psu.edu
     
    #47
    Just throwing this out there, but ...

    There are also "soil maps" published by the feds, even before you get a soil survey you can also lookup what kind of soil is in your region. The appalachins will have micro-regional soil variation, ie it can change from drainage to drainage and side-slop to valley bottom, etc...this can also sometimes tell you if you're land parcel/lot has some fundamental quality issues.

    see. eg

    Web Soil Survey

    websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov

    1751822672369.png
     
    • Like
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    #48
    Hey while I'm at it- anybody have any experience with robot mowers? I've been looking pretty hard at 'em this year and figure it'd save me almost 3 hours a week.

    I want a wireless (but also reliable) model so for an acre of ground, what I'm seeing is models at the $2K price point... does that sound reasonable?
     
    #49
    BCP said:
    I live in Arizona all that's outside is mud and tumbleweeds. Made the mistake of doing extra grading on my property and the tiny bit of useful topsoil is mostly gone, it's all alkali clay shit now, so can't do anything except cover it with gravel.
    Click to expand...
    Oh you CAN grow grass in AZ…..it does take a financial commitment. I’ve got Tiffway 419 growing.

    It’s worth it because the sun tea is so easy to make in AZ 😎

    1751823437822.jpeg
     
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