So I picked up a ar 10 and have been using it for my dog/truck gun, it works fantastic other then it throws brass at 1 o'clock and right about 15 ft! It's obviously way over gassed but before I drop money on just some random adjustable gas block, has anyone had this issue and if so how did you fix it?
18in psa ar 10 tossing brass into the next county
- Thread starter Wmguy
- Start date
Not sure I'd say it's way overgassed unless it's never done that before...
Gas system length?
Factory ammo? Reloads? Milsurp?
Any pressure signs on the brass? (ejector swipe, etc.)
What weight of recoil buffer?
[edit: sorry, overlooked the barrel length in the thread title]
Gas system length?
Factory ammo? Reloads? Milsurp?
Any pressure signs on the brass? (ejector swipe, etc.)
What weight of recoil buffer?
[edit: sorry, overlooked the barrel length in the thread title]
It's a carbine length, federal 110 vmax ammo, and what ever they put in it for buffer weight and spring. I am running a can on it as well. I was looking at those superlative arms gas blocks pretty hard, but I didnt know if that would be the fix? I'd hate to blow $100 just to have the same issues
So how is the ejection pattern w/o the can ? A can will almost always increase gas. Heavier buffer and adjustable gas block will let you tune it.
Agreed with oldfatguy...
I would try it without the can to see if it's any better without it. At least give you a baseline on how it runs without the can. I'm guessing it has a regular 308 length carbine buffer if it has a collapsible stock.
If you don't want to use an adjustable gas block, some folks don't, then I would check that buffer out. If it's not so overgassed without the can, you may get away with just running a heavier buffer. If it's still flinging brass straight ahead without the can on, I would take a look at the gas port in the barrel to make sure it's not oversized. Which wouldn't be a bad idea to check out anyway.
The Superlative gas blocks are excellent. Especially if you run a can and they are pretty easy to tune.
I would try it without the can to see if it's any better without it. At least give you a baseline on how it runs without the can. I'm guessing it has a regular 308 length carbine buffer if it has a collapsible stock.
If you don't want to use an adjustable gas block, some folks don't, then I would check that buffer out. If it's not so overgassed without the can, you may get away with just running a heavier buffer. If it's still flinging brass straight ahead without the can on, I would take a look at the gas port in the barrel to make sure it's not oversized. Which wouldn't be a bad idea to check out anyway.
The Superlative gas blocks are excellent. Especially if you run a can and they are pretty easy to tune.
Without a can?? You guys are a bunch of heathens!! Haha I'll give that a shot and see if it changes anything. Appreciate the info guys!
@Wmguy
If you have a 2.5" buffer... try one of these..https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-p...idual-buffer-parts/lr308-carbine-buffer-heavy
NOTE .... if you are not 100% sure which carbine stocked carbine pattern you are using ... don't guess.. come back to your own thread here and make sure... the parts do not interchange at between the two dominant carbine systems. And will cause issues otherwise.
This link will help... https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...buffer-system-length-on-the-PA10-/301-286585/
With this...https://www.larue.com/products/tubbs-buffer-spring-ar10-sr-25-buffer-springs/ while it looks like it won't fit ... it will.
I use that Tubbs Flatwire in all my PA10's stocks...... DPMS pattern carbine recoil system,... Armalite Pattern carbine recoil system,... and the A1/A2 rifle length recoil system.
And the adj. GB of your choice... ( I use SLR's )
If you end up using all those parts... you will be very surprised how much calmer the "perceived" recoil impulse will be...
A decent muzzle brake helps even more.
You might find this helpful as well...
https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...terion-barrel-results-10-Sept-17-/301-284190/
And this is just in case you are thinking you want a spare PA65 upper..
https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...-again-UPDATED-with-Tn-G-results-/301-285762/
If you have a 2.5" buffer... try one of these..https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-p...idual-buffer-parts/lr308-carbine-buffer-heavy
NOTE .... if you are not 100% sure which carbine stocked carbine pattern you are using ... don't guess.. come back to your own thread here and make sure... the parts do not interchange at between the two dominant carbine systems. And will cause issues otherwise.
This link will help... https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...buffer-system-length-on-the-PA10-/301-286585/
With this...https://www.larue.com/products/tubbs-buffer-spring-ar10-sr-25-buffer-springs/ while it looks like it won't fit ... it will.
I use that Tubbs Flatwire in all my PA10's stocks...... DPMS pattern carbine recoil system,... Armalite Pattern carbine recoil system,... and the A1/A2 rifle length recoil system.
And the adj. GB of your choice... ( I use SLR's )
If you end up using all those parts... you will be very surprised how much calmer the "perceived" recoil impulse will be...
A decent muzzle brake helps even more.
You might find this helpful as well...
https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...terion-barrel-results-10-Sept-17-/301-284190/
And this is just in case you are thinking you want a spare PA65 upper..
https://www.ar15.com/forums/industr...-again-UPDATED-with-Tn-G-results-/301-285762/
So took it apart the yesterday, it's definitely a 2.5 in buffer. I weighed it and its a 3.7 oz, not sure about the spring but my guess is it's not enough as well. So would you guys think I need to start with just a gas block? Or just shot gun it and get a spring, heavy buffer and gas block in one shot?
You have never seen brass fly until you have shot an HK G3...40ft easy.
Call Clint at Black River tactical, he is making gas blocks with interchangeable ports/bushings. They will last longer than a threaded screw coming in from the side. With a carbine gas 308 the port size should be around .060-.062.
You need to tune the gas. That's pretty much a given for a 308 even without a suppressor; adding a suppressor definitely made your rifle overgassed, no question about it.
Seems like you got a lot of other input sending you different directions, but this is pretty simple and commonly known - 308 ARs almost always need gas tuning.
You should expect to use different tuning settings for suppressed vs unsuppressed, and probably different settings for mil-surp vs commercial 308 depending on the load and how sensitive you are to the rifle's function. Some sort of switchable gas block is convenient for that. The Seekins block looks pretty good although I've only used their $60 adjustable model and not the switchable model so far.
Yea the more I've been thinking, I think it would be the best place to start before going hog wild with everything. I'll look into it that seekins block for sure! You've had no issue with yours?
Yeah my Seekins gas blocks have been great, have one on my PSA 308. If I buy another I'll probably get the switch model, they didn't have it when I bought mine.
To be fair - on my PA10, I use the same gas setting suppressed and unsuppressed. However, I don't also vary between low powered mil-surp and high powered Superformance and other commercial stuff like that, I pretty much just stick to one load. I tune the gas block for that load unsuppressed, and deal with a slight amount of excess gas when suppressed. That does make the rifle overgassed when suppressed, but not to the point of causing reliability issues, and I don't use it suppressed most of the time.
Adjustable gas block is all but mandatory for 308 ARs. You'll be amazed at how much you close it up and still get reliable function. There's no need for a heavy buffer with an AGB.
-Stooxie
-Stooxie
So I picked up a superlative arms gas block and tuned this thing with the can attached, it's still plenty over gassed using the bleed off method, so I went restricted. What a difference! Things way better to shoot and tuned the brass to ejected at right at the 3-5 o'clock instead of the 1 o'clock. It definitely doesn't ding up the brass at all now. Thanks again for all the help!
