2006 F250 6.0 Problems

stello1001

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Hello all,

Posting here because idk if there is a right section for this and felt this place could at least be Ok. The hide has always been helpful with one another when it comes to giving advice or helping solve problems.

My dad and I bought an f250 yesterday for cheap money because it had problems. The previous owned said it's the VSM that is fucked up. We never had a diesel or heavy duty type truck before so we are not familiar with these. I'll explain below what the truck does.

When the truck is off, dash lights and interior lights all stay on, causing it to drain battery. You must leave the truck unlocked because it does not have a keyhole, only a keypad. It does not have a remote to unlock or lock it. If you do lock it, with all the lights staying on, it drains the battery and there is no way to get in your truck due to no keyhole. The previous owner said there is no door code to unlock it or if there is, he doesn't know it. Even if we knew what it was, it's no good with a dead batter.
The truck runs real good though. When it's running, it is always indicating the front left door (driver door) is always open even though it's not and all interior lights are on. When you park, you must disconnect both batteries to avoid draining them and you must park leaving your doors unlocked. Hopefully there are no junkies trying to get into your truck at night.

Anyhow, does anyone have any advice?
I will call the dealership as well and see if they know.
Thanks,

Serg
 

stello1001

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Also, before anyone says we shouldn't have bought it because "Ford sucks" or because those "6.0 engines suck", we already heard this from others. We knew this when we bought it and we knew about the problems it has. We are going to look into everything and anything to make it work as this will be a project. Even if it's too much trouble to go through, we already found someone who is willing to buy it from us at twice what we paid if we decide to sell it as is.

Bottom line, I'm asking for suggestions, not comments about Ford sucks or 6.0 sucks, etc.
 

kindabitey

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Clearly, it's got a wiring issue. Probably one of the hardest problems to find. If you can find a Ford diesel specialist, that would most likely be cheaper than
a dealership.
Best of luck.
 

sniper307

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It sounds like the drivers door switch is faulty. I know it doesn’t have a conventional switch that pushes in when the door is closed like the old days, but it does have some sort of switch there that allows the lights to illuminate. I don’t know what you mean by VSM, but all these newer trucks have lighting modules, which control all of the illumination. It may be part of the BCM ( body control module) or a separate module. If you go online you can buy a 24 hrs subscription to the factory wiring manual and schematic for that year and download it. Also what trim level is it? I think lesser trim models like XL or XLT does have a keyhole on the door handle. You may be able to source one from a salvage yard with a key, so that you always have the option of keyed entry at a later time even after u fix this. And don’t let anyone tell you the 6.0 is trash. Once it is built right, they are pretty remarkable motors. Better than the 6.4 that replaced it. Also keep an eye on radiator for leaks, the way it’s mounted and torque of truck will eventually cause it to crack on the drivers side.
 

stello1001

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The VSM is the Vehicle Security Module which I think is on 2002 - 2008 models. I'll have to look more into this.

It's a lariat, I'm guessing that's the trim.
 
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wh20crazy

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I had a '94 Thunderbird with the keypad. I think there was a sticker in the glove box with the unlock code. There may also be one in the owners manual. It's been a long time, but I think it's a 4 digit code and if you have the factory code, you can add your own.

I would start with the easiest thing first: check the pin switches and wiring in each of the doors. If that's not it, you may have a tough one.
 

stello1001

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I had a '94 Thunderbird with the keypad. I think there was a sticker in the glove box with the unlock code. There may also be one in the owners manual. It's been a long time, but I think it's a 4 digit code and if you have the factory code, you can add your own.

I would start with the easiest thing first: check the pin switches and wiring in each of the doors. If that's not it, you may have a tough one.
We found it in the glove compartment, it's not working.

Something in the computer is messed up and that's what's causing all these problems. Some sort of module thingy...
 

264win

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Not an expert, but I had a vehicle with similar issues once and wound up finding the same make/model in a junkyard. They let me swap in and out a few different modules and computers to see what worked. It saved a lot of $$ vs buying all the parts new to try.
 

clcustom1911

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Door switch is in the latch. Pull the door panel. Known problem.
This. The door switch is faulty, indicating it's "open". Since its "open" all the interior lights come on.


My Google-fu is strong.
 

Mike Casselton

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You can buy a pair of key fob remotes on line for like $30. Easy as pie to program.

The keypad code is obtainable within your vehicle. Do a Google search and if you do what they say, you'll find the 5 digit code.
 

benchmstr

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perhaps its the battery saver on the other side of the gauge cluster..my Excursion did this and i sent my gauges off to circuit board medic and they fixed it permanently!

I have had several 6.0's...they are extremely good trucks IF you are a responsible and knowledgeable owner...stay ahead of the curve and learn as much as you can. or its going to become a money pit....like any diesel

bench
 

stello1001

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I just moved it from Corpus to the RGV, a 3 hour drive. Boy can she move. The previous owner did a straight pipe modification on it and completely removed the catalytic converter as well as tuned it with a programmer. I can definitely feel the torque.

Anyhow, thanks all of you for the suggestion. The door latch thing is one thing I had read already elsewhere and is something I will try. I had not noticed earlier but the message center is displaying that both front doors are open. Before, I thought it was saying only the driver door. It also says "tbc fault" which I think means trailer brake component or something along that.

Needless to say, it's definitely going to be a project haha.
 

benchmstr

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I just moved it from Corpus to the RGV, a 3 hour drive. Boy can she move. The previous owner did a straight pipe modification on it and completely removed the catalytic converter as well as tuned it with a programmer. I can definitely feel the torque.

Anyhow, thanks all of you for the suggestion. The door latch thing is one thing I had read already elsewhere and is something I will try. I had not noticed earlier but the message center is displaying that both front doors are open. Before, I thought it was saying only the driver door. It also says "tbc fault" which I think means trailer brake component or something along that.

Needless to say, it's definitely going to be a project haha.
my daily driver is a 6.0 excursion.

it has over 600whp and 1100ft/lbs at the wheels on the street tune with a kill devil stage 2 long block and gearhead tuning.

I have driven it all over the damn country...my wife drives a 2019 f250...i prefer mine.

bench
 
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Underaverage

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The 6.0 motors make power for days. But lord you have to bulletproof them to get the longevity that you want out of them. ARP headstuds and the works. Definitely sounds like a pretty severe wiring/electrical problem. I don't touch that stuff with a 10 ft pole lol. Find an electrical master and have him figure out out for you and just pay him is my suggestion. If you got the truck for the great deal that you say you did, then putting up a bit of money to have it done right the first time will be well worth the hassle and time that it will save you.
 

TacticalDillhole

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The 6.0 motors make power for days. But lord you have to bulletproof them to get the longevity that you want out of them. ARP headstuds and the works. Definitely sounds like a pretty severe wiring/electrical problem. I don't touch that stuff with a 10 ft pole lol. Find an electrical master and have him figure out out for you and just pay him is my suggestion. If you got the truck for the great deal that you say you did, then putting up a bit of money to have it done right the first time will be well worth the hassle and time that it will save you.
Agreed. Bulletproof. EGR delete. I put a banks tuner, exhaust and inter cooler on mine. Next up I have 2 titan fuel tanks and all new fuel delivery to install. Should have 100 gallon capacity and about 20 mpg on economy tune.
 
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AKMarty

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On our second diesel Excursion. It’s the door switch but you have to trouble shoot which one. Expensive to replace easy to moderate to pull and clean. The plunger is what gets fouled and shows the door open.

If you aren’t going to do the full bulletproof make sure you are fully flushing the coolant every 60-80k. Even then the damage (blocked cooling passages in the oil cooler that sits in the valley below the turbo) might be done. A good mechanic can check the oil-coolant temp differential. And make sure he checks that under load not idling in his shop. I think the spec is 8 degrees max.

good luck with it.
 
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TacticalDillhole

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What the hell is bulletproof and EGR delete?
So the 6.0 is well known for its problems with blown head gaskets caused by all sorts of things. Most notably is this emissions device (thanks Cali) that basically recycles some of the exhaust to for something inside the engine. I’m not diesel mechanic so forgive me. But it’s known for its weakness from the factory and will cause radiator fluid to get inside the engine and eventually blow the gaskets. It’s not a matter of if but when. Some can go hundreds of thousands of miles. Some just thousands. But it’s expensive. So you can do what’s called bullet proofing (any competent diesel shop will know what you mean) where they replace the head studs for better qualty. Do gasket work, fuel injectors blah blah blah. In many states, like mine, the EGR is not required so a delete is very common and will recover quite a bit of HP. If yours hasn’t been bulletproofed. Do it.

its a major repair. We are talking a cab off job. It’s like 16-20 hours of labor. But it’s mandatory. If you don’t get it done at some point it will leave you sitting on the side of the road being the punch line of a bunch of Ford jokes.
 
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rope

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For my 07 the door code was on the firewall behind the radio.

Google your year and where is the factory door code.

A previous owner may have changed the code, you will need to get it reset.
 

Friday

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It sounds like the drivers door switch is faulty. I know it doesn’t have a conventional switch that pushes in when the door is closed like the old days, but it does have some sort of switch there that allows the lights to illuminate. I don’t know what you mean by VSM, but all these newer trucks have lighting modules, which control all of the illumination. It may be part of the BCM ( body control module) or a separate module. If you go online you can buy a 24 hrs subscription to the factory wiring manual and schematic for that year and download it. Also what trim level is it? I think lesser trim models like XL or XLT does have a keyhole on the door handle. You may be able to source one from a salvage yard with a key, so that you always have the option of keyed entry at a later time even after u fix this. And don’t let anyone tell you the 6.0 is trash. Once it is built right, they are pretty remarkable motors. Better than the 6.4 that replaced it. Also keep an eye on radiator for leaks, the way it’s mounted and torque of truck will eventually cause it to crack on the drivers side.
I’ve got 4 6.4 powerstroke diesels all with delete kits and spartan programmers 3 of the 4 are approaching half a million miles with nothing more than engine services done the 4th has around 250k on it with nothing more than services done, the 5 6.0s we had before were nickel and diming bastards but all had around 300k on them I’ve got a couple 6.7s now that have been great so far as well.
 

stello1001

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So the 6.0 is well known for its problems with blown head gaskets caused by all sorts of things. Most notably is this emissions device (thanks Cali) that basically recycles some of the exhaust to for something inside the engine. I’m not diesel mechanic so forgive me. But it’s known for its weakness from the factory and will cause radiator fluid to get inside the engine and eventually blow the gaskets. It’s not a matter of if but when. Some can go hundreds of thousands of miles. Some just thousands. But it’s expensive. So you can do what’s called bullet proofing (any competent diesel shop will know what you mean) where they replace the head studs for better qualty. Do gasket work, fuel injectors blah blah blah. In many states, like mine, the EGR is not required so a delete is very common and will recover quite a bit of HP. If yours hasn’t been bulletproofed. Do it.

its a major repair. We are talking a cab off job. It’s like 16-20 hours of labor. But it’s mandatory. If you don’t get it done at some point it will leave you sitting on the side of the road being the punch line of a bunch of Ford jokes.
Aha!!!
So this must have been what the previous owner was talking about. He said he did something to the truck so that those recycled gases don't make it back to the engine. However, I don't think he removed the body or took 16-20 hours. He must have done it via the programmer and pretty much shut off that part. Or at least that's what I think he was trying to say.

For my 07 the door code was on the firewall behind the radio.

Google your year and where is the factory door code.

A previous owner may have changed the code, you will need to get it reset.
Thanks for this info, I'll look into it.
 

TacticalDillhole

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Aha!!!
So this must have been what the previous owner was talking about. He said he did something to the truck so that those recycled gases don't make it back to the engine. However, I don't think he removed the body or took 16-20 hours. He must have done it via the programmer and pretty much shut off that part. Or at least that's what I think he was trying to say.



Thanks for this info, I'll look into it.
Well if he only did an EGR delete that’s no big deal. But, if the head job hasn’t been done and the oil cooler dealt with and the FICM upgraded it’s not bullet proofed. It’s a generic term now for the service. But here’s an article to get you started

 

benchmstr

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Agreed. Bulletproof. EGR delete. I put a banks tuner, exhaust and inter cooler on mine. Next up I have 2 titan fuel tanks and all new fuel delivery to install. Should have 100 gallon capacity and about 20 mpg on economy tune.
Banks and other canned tunes are one of the 6.0’s main problems..those cookie cutter tunes had way too much timing(cylinder pressure) and the head gaskets couldn’t hold...get custom tunes from a reliable tuner and let longevity happen

bench
 
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benchmstr

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Well if he only did an EGR delete that’s no big deal. But, if the head job hasn’t been done and the oil cooler dealt with and the FICM upgraded it’s not bullet proofed. It’s a generic term now for the service. But here’s an article to get you started

I have a bulletproof air to oil oil cooler and the water pump...couldn’t recommend them enough.

that oil cooler cost a nightforce..but I never have to worry about deltas again

bench
 

TacticalDillhole

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Banks and other canned tunes are one of the 6.0’s main problems..those cookie cutter tunes had way too much timing(cylinder pressure) and the head gaskets couldn’t hold...get custom tunes from a reliable tuner and let longevity happen

bench
Interesting. I’ve had no issues. But to be honest, I didn’t put the tuner on until after I had the bullet proof done.
 

rope

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I agree that custom tunes are the best. I used Power Hungry Performance, I had a FICM tuner and a ECM tuner. FICM tuner was important here in Alaska’s cold weather. I needed the pilot injection turned off. It really cleaned up the FICM’s programming of how it runs the injectors.

6.0 is a great motor once the egr, oil cooler, studs are taken care of.
 

Maxduty

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The biggest issue with the 6.0 was the leaking EGR. If the delete was done before it started leaking, the head studs really aren't needed. The only reason they were needed in the first place was the coolant got into the recycled gases and made it's way to the cylinders. Steam doesn't like compression and will lift a head quick. On a side note, while it's a pain in the ass, you don't need to lift the body to do head gaskets and studs. I didn't even have to remove the AC system to put the passenger side head back in with studs.
 

HeavyAssault

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To the issue: Spray all the door latches with WD40 or whatever. Open/shut the doors multiple times. See if that helps solve the issue. If you drop in to Powerstroke.ORG there's PLENTY of help.
 

Carlos Danger

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I had an 06. I could search unread something about the door code being behind the back seat somewhere.

My best recommendation, join a 6.0 specific forum. I believe they have ones dedicated to this motor alone. Lots of experience and there's usually a bunch of certified dealer techs on them as well.

Mine was great until about 110K. Roller lifter seized and ate the cam lobe. Complete rebuild. Not trying to scare you, just beware.

PS - You can also buy an inexpensive blue tooth OBD2 transmitter and download code reading apps for your phone. Theyll give you codes and you can look them up on line very easily.
 

benchmstr

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I agree that custom tunes are the best. I used Power Hungry Performance, I had a FICM tuner and a ECM tuner. FICM tuner was important here in Alaska’s cold weather. I needed the pilot injection turned off. It really cleaned up the FICM’s programming of how it runs the injectors.

6.0 is a great motor once the egr, oil cooler, studs are taken care of.
People see that and automatically say “I shouldn’t have to do that to a diesel! I’m going to buy brand “x””

let me break this down for everyone...I am not brand specific...I drive all new model diesels and have owned about every variety since 2000

Studs, egr, and oil cooler will cost you $4000+

dodge transmissions are complete shit...both Cummins I’ve owned dropped at least one transmission and a rear end...more than $4k

duramax, especially the same years as the 6.0 fuel system is know to shit out...cost? Comparable to the 6.0 bulletproofing

oh, the old knuckle dragging 1911 of the diesel world 7.3? It doesn’t make enough power or rev high enough to hurt itself! Plus, the transmission and oil systems are complete shit...any modern v8 1500 style truck makes more power and is more reliable...but for serious use, you’ll need a lot of new trannies.

so, all diesels are a bitch...buckle in and learn everything about the one you like to make it liveable.

bench
 

TacticalDillhole

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People see that and automatically say “I shouldn’t have to do that to a diesel! I’m going to buy brand “x””

let me break this down for everyone...I am not brand specific...I drive all new model diesels and have owned about every variety since 2000

Studs, egr, and oil cooler will cost you $4000+

dodge transmissions are complete shit...both Cummins I’ve owned dropped at least one transmission and a rear end...more than $4k

duramax, especially the same years as the 6.0 fuel system is know to shit out...cost? Comparable to the 6.0 bulletproofing

oh, the old knuckle dragging 1911 of the diesel world 7.3? It doesn’t make enough power or rev high enough to hurt itself! Plus, the transmission and oil systems are complete shit...any modern v8 1500 style truck makes more power and is more reliable...but for serious use, you’ll need a lot of new trannies.

so, all diesels are a bitch...buckle in and learn everything about the one you like to make it liveable.

bench
The dream is an older cummins with an allison trans in a ford body.
 
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TacticalDillhole

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With Ford axles..but even with the old Cummins you are seriously lacking power

bench
besides all the stuff we talked about, id have to say my biggest gripe about my truck is the suspension. The front leafs are miserable and no matter what you do you will never get rid of the slop in the steering..........unless i do a 4 link conversion (hint hint)
 

benchmstr

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besides all the stuff we talked about, id have to say my biggest gripe about my truck is the suspension. The front leafs are miserable and no matter what you do you will never get rid of the slop in the steering..........unless i do a 4 link conversion (hint hint)
Or just a coil over conversion...that’s what I did to the excursion...no leaf springs...no rub.

bench
 

rope

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People see that and automatically say “I shouldn’t have to do that to a diesel! I’m going to buy brand “x””

let me break this down for everyone...I am not brand specific...I drive all new model diesels and have owned about every variety since 2000

Studs, egr, and oil cooler will cost you $4000+

dodge transmissions are complete shit...both Cummins I’ve owned dropped at least one transmission and a rear end...more than $4k

duramax, especially the same years as the 6.0 fuel system is know to shit out...cost? Comparable to the 6.0 bulletproofing

oh, the old knuckle dragging 1911 of the diesel world 7.3? It doesn’t make enough power or rev high enough to hurt itself! Plus, the transmission and oil systems are complete shit...any modern v8 1500 style truck makes more power and is more reliable...but for serious use, you’ll need a lot of new trannies.

so, all diesels are a bitch...buckle in and learn everything about the one you like to make it liveable.

bench
I by no means am a brand person. I am a good deal person. I am a diesel truck guy and have had all the brands, they all have issues one kind or another. Sometimes it’s a common part like the early 2000’s Bosch injectors.

My 07 F350 Outlaw was parked to close to the house back in January and burnt along with the house. I loved that truck. I upgraded and replaced everything other than the rotating assembly 3-4 years back. All the fun cool parts. Custom tuning was the only thing to address all the changes and help turn that 88mm stage 2 ball bearing turbo.

I replaced her with a ‘18 Ram Tradesman rubber floor, G56 transmission.

I have not really had out of the ordinary repairs, I put the miles to them. And things just wear out. Keep up the maintenance and they are all good trucks. I would buy each and every one all over again, not disappointed in any of them.
 

stello1001

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These bulletproofing mods are starting to make the truck less attractive each second. Even if I sink $4,000 into the truck doing all that stuff to it, it would still be a decent purchase. However, it won't be the "steal" I thought it was.

She did come with some newer model F250 20inch wheels and brand spanking new all terrain 10ply tires. I cannot recall if they are Toyos or Nittos but either way, they're quality tires.


20200406_144306.jpg

The truck had been parked for years so yes, she looks to be needing some TLC. The way you see the truck in the picture is the way we got it. We already cleaned two wheels just to see if they yellowish color would come off and it did. Tomorrow we might wash her completely or not, still not sure. We are currently brushing off the surface rust it has on the chassis. Good thing none of it ate through the metal, it is all just on the surface and it's coming off real nice.
 

benchmstr

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These bulletproofing mods are starting to make the truck less attractive each second. Even if I sink $4,000 into the truck doing all that stuff to it, it would still be a decent purchase. However, it won't be the "steal" I thought it was.

She did come with some newer model F250 20inch wheels and brand spanking new all terrain 10ply tires. I cannot recall if they are Toyos or Nittos but either way, they're quality tires.


View attachment 7294021

The truck had been parked for years so yes, she looks to be needing some TLC. The way you see the truck in the picture is the way we got it. We already cleaned two wheels just to see if they yellowish color would come off and it did. Tomorrow we might wash her completely or not, still not sure. We are currently brushing off the surface rust it has on the chassis. Good thing none of it ate through the metal, it is all just on the surface and it's coming off real nice.
Man, just stay on top of the maintenance, use fuel additive at every fill up(I use archoil), use an additive in tour oil(archoil again for me), and never let it get below a 1/4 tank.

also, only use Ford oil and fuel filters...that’s extremely important...never use wix or anything else that isn’t a ford filter on a 6.0!

oil and filter every 5000
Fuel filters every 10,000

its about responsibility more than anything! Enjoy it

bench
 

Sniperwannabee

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6.0 is the worst diesel ever made .... I have a 04 I ripped out the 6.0 and dropped a Cummins in it , best money I ever spent don’t waste money with the bulletproof crap. Ford settled on countless lawsuits against them for the many 6.0 problems
Rip out your 6.0 to sell and fund your conversion ;)





i just moved from corpus you could have checked out my truck and I could of helped you out
 
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346ci

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You need a scanner to read oil and coolant temp, if they are 15 degrees or less, you lucky. If more than 15, see below as this is when problems start.

At the bare minimum you will need; new oem oil cooler, bullet proof egr cooler(assuming you are not going to delete), really good coolant flush and new oem oil and fuel filters. Find a shop that has dealt with the 6.0L, they will be very familiar with it.

We have 7.3L, 6.0L, 6.4L and 6.7L at work. If you want to skip all the bs and have the $$, go for the 6.7L, them seemed to have done a much better job on them.