Agreed but it’ll be easier to make the PRC mag feed with heavies since the case is .040 shorter
- Thread starter DAVETOOLEY
- Start date
Oh for sure! I mean I personally never mag feed my rifles….
I had no reason to mag feed an ELR style rifle until I shot NF and KRG matches.Oh for sure! I mean I personally never mag feed my rifles….
That is when I switched from a 300 RUM to a 30 Sherman Mag
Makes sense. I mean my 300 prc loads w 245s are at a 3.9” COAL….
What speeds you get with the 245?
From a 30” barrel running 81gr of N570 Im
bw 2930 - 2960 given varying conditions. So pretty good in my book!
That is impressive. I run my 32" SM at 2975. I've got room to go up but I was happy with that speed.From a 30” barrel running 81gr of N570 Im
bw 2930 - 2960 given varying conditions. So pretty good in my book!
EDIT: That's actually the same charge I'm running also.
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Same. I could push them but I’d like to keep my barrel for a little longer
I’ve started ordering them 2 at a time and I don’t even shoot that muchSame. I could push them but I’d like to keep my barrel for a little longer
Wow there is an overwhelming amount of info on this page!
just starting to reload for 300prc. Wanting to load 230 & 250 atips and 245 Bergers
It’s time for a new barrel, so my question is freebore. What reamer should I be going with?
I’m sure the answer is already in here somewhere, but I don’t think I can read through 106 pages lol
Thank you guys in advance
just starting to reload for 300prc. Wanting to load 230 & 250 atips and 245 Bergers
It’s time for a new barrel, so my question is freebore. What reamer should I be going with?
I’m sure the answer is already in here somewhere, but I don’t think I can read through 106 pages lol
Thank you guys in advance
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Hey All! I got lowlight to pin a thread in the reloading forum for 300 PRC loads. I had thrown out the idea of just renaming this one and moving to there but I think having a clean place just in reloading was the thought w pinning the thread there. Anyways would love some reload data over yonder! Cheers.
This thread should be edited into the OP for reference.
I am posting some reloading stuff on Rumble. I am working up 198 PVA solids with N565 and making another batch of my goto 220ELDX with 7828SSC. Not the best videos, but better than posting on the YT... I guess my main question that I have right now is will a neck thickness of 0.0135" have any noticeable difference from the brass that was turned to 0.0145"(ish)? It seems that I turned these in two different batches/settings. Would you advise going back to the thicker necks and turn them down to match the thin ones as well or would it be a waste of time?
I did forget to mention how to determine what size bushing to get or how to measure the overall neck tension (bullet diameter + neck thickness x2). I'm looking for a good quick and easy way to describe that in the next video, any tips please feel free to share.
-Spew the pew and press or cry like the rest...
I did forget to mention how to determine what size bushing to get or how to measure the overall neck tension (bullet diameter + neck thickness x2). I'm looking for a good quick and easy way to describe that in the next video, any tips please feel free to share.
-Spew the pew and press or cry like the rest...
Only tip is don’t get discouraged if they are .7 groups.
A few of us have played with the 30 cal PVA and none of us have found them to be .5 at 100
The 6mm shot little knots but the 30’s don’t
seem to group that tight in several different chambers
If you figure I’ll be haunting you for info
Make all your necks the same for consistency sake.
For bushing You can measure wall thickness, then double it and add to bullet diameter, after that subtract how much interference you want. If using this method I typically err on the small side just incase my measurement was a touch big.
Or, measure a loaded round and subtract the interference you want
Trimmed my necks to match and put it on Rumble. Gotta brush the necks then prime and load.
I have/use a Redding Type S 3 die set plus mandrel die to load my 245/250's. The problem/question I have is: Has anyone found a better way to full length bush the neck instead of Redding's answer to insert the decapping rod set nut on top of bushing? This gets me a little over halfway down and Redding's answer is "that's good enough". I can post pics, but confident I can't be the only one with this `Issue'.
Are you trying to size the neck all the way?
Not necessarily, but I'd like to go down a little further without creating a donut. do you use this same die and "nut spacer" setup?
Do you mean that the neck is only being sized about halfway down?
If so, I saw the exact same thing with the same line of dies - and Redding's answer is bullshit. If you're only sizing half the neck, then you're only holding in the bullet with half the friction force. This makes parameters associated with that half of the neck more important to control.
I had a 308 Redding Type S (actually, I still have it in a drawer somewhere) that I ended up replacing with a Whidden due to this issue. I already use Whiddens for my 300 PRC and 6 BRA.
I have been using the SAC on for all my cartridges and so far after 7 reloads I never had any donut on any of my brass. I have been using 331 bushing following by the 306 mandrel with excellent results.
Well I'm glad someone agrees with me. It's been chapping my ass from the get go. The only reason I haven't addressed it is the rig runs my loads very well. I have a new pipe on order and id like to get this bushing BS sorted out. I reached out on here hoping someone made their own machined spacer. If not, guess I'll reach out to Whidden.
I tried whidden and returned it immediately
It was giving me super consistent shoulder bump but wasn’t sizing the base enough for my liking so I ended up with SAC.
I use an L.E. Wilson neck sizing die with bushing and have been very happy with it. This is with an arbor press.
I‘m using L.E. Wilson‘s FLSD with neck bushing and there bullet seater die with an arbor press as well. Extremely happy with the results I’m getting.
