93 Cummins ?'s

[Cserv]

Ok, I feel pretty dumb asking. Where is the fuel filter on this engine? Also, what are as ome simple "tune ups" I can do myself to pull a little more power without killing reliability?
The truck is a 93 W350 CTD, with a Banks power package including the exhaust, has GearVendors OD behind the factory auto od trans, bags front and rear, and a BD engine brake. Still has the factory airbox and intake. Only has 179k on the odometer, my dad was the second owner got the truck in 98 I believe. It came with everything on it. I dont want to get too crazy with it as its my daily driver and pulls my home(34' 5th wheel). Thanks for any info.

Eric

 

[HD1911]

Propane and a Suncoast Level 5 baby!!!

 

[qkieler]

i cant help you with the fuel filter but i know you can get more power by sliding the fuel plate and turning the fuel screw let somone with more than half a brain do this or it will smoke like a train

 

[Speedgoat]

Probably hiding on the drivers side of the motor, half way under the intake manifold. If its an auto it's probably more hidden by the throttle kick down linkage bracket. Or someone's put a electric (airdog or fass) pump on it. I'll get you the filter part number tomorrow so you can do away with the water in fuel sensor/drain that will one day fail and leak at what is bound to be the most inconvenient time. I have a 91 I've done a lot of work to.

 

[Speedgoat]

Also you don't have a fuel plate. 89-93 have the VE rotary Bosch which has a pin type. The whole system this is in is called the Arenoid part of your injection pump. For starters take that pin, under a cap held on by 4 screws with a round plug on the top and be careful not to rupture the tube going into the intake manifold (cast as part of the head). Get that off/ out of the way and you'll see a diaphragm looking thing. Pull it out and make note of where the curvature of the shaft is deepest. It'll make sense when you take it out and look at it. Re-install that with the deepest end facing towards the front of the motor. You may need to take a screwdriver and gently push the rod that rides on the fuel pin back in, you don't want to break that off. 1stgen.org and cumminsforum are some good forum sites. Tons of info good luck!

 

[mdavlee]

There's a lot of easy free mods for those pumps. Flipping the aneroid so that the deepest part is where the little pin rides will help. You can adjust the screw under the cover in a little more to let it fuel a little more down low. It will smoke a little when you do this but it will improve throttle response. The fuel screw is on the end of the pump facing the firewall. It has a set screw with a collar on there. It can be adjusted in a long way without having to remove the collar. I would skip propane and any other extra power adder like that. If you're towing in the mountains a lot and the egts are getting high then maybe consider water/methanol to cool them down. I can't remember if the banks powerpack came with a smaller exhaust housing to aid spool up for towing. If it didn't a 14cm exhaust housing will improve it a lot. It will be smaller and may not flow quite as much on the top end but will make spool up and getting up to speed.

 

[Cserv]

Its got 4:10 gears, so its not too bad down low. It has decent boost pressure, my gauge reads20+ under heavy acceleration. It just seems to flatten out around 2000rpm, which kills my top end/hiway speeds. What is the safe range for egt's?
Thanks,
Eric

 

[JeremyC]

If it's falling on its face at 2000 rpm, look into a set of 3K governor springs and have the injection pump timing bumped up a couple degrees. I don't have much experience with the rotary pumped 1st gens, but I have a '95 that is pushing 350HP on the stock injectors and turbo (with 14cm wastegated exh housing).

 

[mdavlee]

1450 for short bursts and 1350 extended like towing up a mountain. The pump timing can be changed by spinning the pump towards the head. You can find instructions on 1stgen.org or cummins forum. You can give it more fuel with the fuel screw and see if that will help a little.

 

[Speedgoat]

A turbo such as a HX35W will accent pump tuning very nicely and you'll lower your EGT's at the same time. Find em used off of the P Pump'ed Cummins's a wrecking yard. You won't run as high of psi but it flows a whole lot more air.

 

[Cmonroe]

Hy9 with a boost fooler and small like 80 horse injectors will wake it up a little. If you want it to run put the hy9 on top of a tht 3b with a 16 housing and p pump it with 14mm plungers, cut your dv's in a lathe, put a set a 4k gov springs in and crank them down, extruded hone about 30% some 370 marine injectors and hand cut your fuel plate. Might want head studs for that one should be good for right at 800 hp and 1600 ft pounds. P.S. might also want to build the trans for that last build, lol. My last 12v ran 98 pounds of boost.

 

[RanchhandTCR]

Fuel filter is on the driver side of the block back near the fire wall, its a spin off filter. Fill it with diesel before you put it back in so you can save time trying to reprime the system

 

[JeremyC]

A turbo such as a HX35W will accent pump tuning very nicely and you'll lower your EGT's at the same time. Find em used off of the P Pump'ed Cummins's a wrecking yard. You won't run as high of psi but it flows a whole lot more air.

I don't know What the older turbos will push, but mine's wastegated at 34PSI, but the new rack plug I put in the pump pushes it to 38PSI at WOT. The older trucks are great! You can spend very little cash for a TON of horsepower!

 

[Speedgoat]

I don't know. I put the standard auto meter mechanical boost gauge on mine one afternoon back in high school. Turned my pump up all the way with some of my secret VE pump knowledge and test drove it. On the first good pull my needle was way past the last hash on the boost gauge. Man this thread's really making me wanna get my ol 91 running again!

 

[mdavlee]

Hy9 with a boost fooler and small like 80 horse injectors will wake it up a little. If you want it to run put the hy9 on top of a tht 3b with a 16 housing and p pump it with 14mm plungers, cut your dv's in a lathe, put a set a 4k gov springs in and crank them down, extruded hone about 30% some 370 marine injectors and hand cut your fuel plate. Might want head studs for that one should be good for right at 800 hp and 1600 ft pounds. P.S. might also want to build the trans for that last build, lol. My last 12v ran 98 pounds of boost.

That would be fine and dandy if he had a p pump instead of the VE pump. That sounds like a real nice running truck you got there.

 

[RanchhandTCR]

Most HX35 Turbos are wastegated at 20 PSI. Safe egts for a preturbo pyrometer is around 1200 1400 degrees for short period of time but normal driving spike of 900 and 600-800 on a stock set up. If its post turbo them no more than 900 degress and should run at 500-600 degrees. Ya a VE Pump is not going to run 800 horsies our of that truck, plus if you need that much horse power for towing then buy something with a CAT in it.

 

[Speedgoat]

Ya a VE Pump is not going to run 800 horsies our of that truck, plus if you need that much horse power for towing then buy something with a CAT in it.

That's what I did!

 

[colby1979]

Also, payattention to your lift pump on the L side of the block , if it goes out you may not notice as the rotary pump will still suck fuel but your IP will be short lived. I would also replace the 2800rpm governor spring to a 3200 especially if you have 4.10 gears as it will max out at around 73mph. Oh, and the filter is also located on the L side of the block somewhere in the center IIRC. Other things to do are replace the steering shaft ith a Borgson(sp) and kill the KDP (killer dowel pin) if it hasent been done. They say bumping the timing helps with power and milage but I never did that when i had my 93 but it's something you may want to look into and check all of of your intercooler connections with soapy water as mine had had some loose clamps.

 

[JeremyC]

Yeah definitely take care of the KDP before it bites you like it did me. That timing gear housing was close to $200 8 years ago... no telling what they charge for it now. Not to mention the fact that it's a pain in the ass to replace.

 

[cummins cowboy]

the fuel filter looks like a small oil filter on the drivers side of the truck near and under the injection pump. it also has the fuel and water seperator and or sensor on the bottom of the filter if I remember correctly. I used to have a '93 myself, one hell of a good running truck. it got the best fuel mileage of any diesel truck I have owned or driven. I liked the fact there seemed to never be any strange or unusual sounds coming from the engine like these new electronic trucks do. The problem with the trucks is they essentially had half ton brakes on them and the suspension was not very heavy duty again basically half ton in comparison.