Accuracy International Picture Thread

[HKSniper11B]

Hard to say. Lots of things circled in there. Could be a bolt release, could be an action. Who’s to say, really?

He's asking why there's a recession in the action.

I think you're confusing two different AI barrel systems, maybe? You referenced a pic of an AXSR and asked about barrel flats and strap wrenches, etc. "Hand-tight" is what is SPECIFIED in the manual for the AXMC, AXSR, and other platforms that use the Quick-Loc barrel system. Hand-tight sets the headspace properly, and the lock mechanism, properly torqued to approx. 50 in.lbs provides the force to keep it locked firmly in place with no need for additional torque on the barrel. The flats are handy in case one ever got stuck and wouldn't come off by hand, but I have changed quite a few around and never run into that. It seems to me that torquing one of these barrels significantly more than hand-tight could potentially damage the receiver threads since the threads are split longitudinally (to make the clamp) and not designed to take that much torque with the clamp loosened for barrel changing. The i.d. of the receiver threads is relaxed (larger) with the clamp loosened, and the threads don't go 360 deg around the tenon of the barrel - there is a gap in the threads at the bottom.

You would be correct, however, on the earlier, non Quick-Loc designs, which definitely need substantially more torque than hand-tight because they don't have the clamping mechanism.

I have 19mm (for Lothar-Walther and Bartlein/WinTac barrels) and 22mm surgical wrenches (for current Accuracy International factory barrels) which are rubber coated I use specifically for barrel wrenches as barrels on my quick change AT308 have always gotten stuck when I go to pull them. The rubber coating helps prevent marring the Cerakote on the barrel.

But digressing, this is the correct answer.

 

[HKSniper11B]

Mmm, I don’t think so with the Quick-Locs. The video you mention is Jake Bynum from Rifles Only, with a non Quick- Loc action. They are supposed to be torqued to a specific (higher) value, and the point of his video was that “whatever”that specific value is, isn’t that important. Just good and TIGHT (whack the big wrench with a big hammer, no torque wrench for him). But those rifles are supposed to have their barrels on tight because they lack the retention mechanism of the Quick-Loc. I don’t have an AT, just AXMC and AXSR. What does your manual say?

I hate that video so goddamn much... Just because it "works" doesn't mean folks should be doing that. So much unnecessary stress is being put on the action from those hammer whacks. If it was life or death and it had to get done? Fine... But it's a sniper rifle, not an M240B for Pete's sake. If you're changing your barrels, do it right or don't do it at all.

 

[HKSniper11B]

I do 55 in/lbs as well.


View attachment 8692359
Nothing about barrel torque…hmmmm

The "barrel torque" is, essentially, the barrel screw torque. The tolerances of machining in the action and on the barrels is such that "hand tight" of screwing the barrel in, is all that's needed to ensure there's zero gap between the barrel and action. Everything that keeps the barrel in place is being done by that barrel screw at 49 inch pounds.

 

[carbonbased]

All right, just got off the phone with an AINA tech. Folks are correct that one doesn’t need to do anything more than hand tight when screwing in a barrel.

But he also said what I do with a Cresent wrench doesn’t hurt the action at all. Whew.

He mentioned that ~100 ft/lbs might cause problems (barrel torque, not the little screw), but he said I can’t get anywhere near that sort of torque with my method.

Well, I guess I’ll try just hand tight (plus, of course, the little screw). 50% tool use reduction during barrel swaps! Lol

Edit: thx @vh20!

 

[Edsel]

He's asking why there's a recession in the action.

I have 19mm (for Lothar-Walther and Bartlein/WinTac barrels) and 22mm surgical wrenches (for current Accuracy International factory barrels) which are rubber coated I use specifically for barrel wrenches as barrels on my quick change AT308 have always gotten stuck when I go to pull them. The rubber coating helps prevent marring the Cerakote on the barrel.

But digressing, this is the correct answer.

Knipex parallel - jaw pliers, with rubber protectors.

I wonder…

 

[carbonbased]

View attachment 8692398View attachment 8692399

Knipex parallel - jaw pliers, with rubber protectors.
I wonder…

I own the 10”, 7”, and 5” versions of that wrench. Awesome. But finally went with a Lobtex Japanese adjustable wrench (negligible slop/backing off!) for barrel changes as it’s faster to get the right width. Buuut now I just learned my hands are enough! Lol for AI’s at least.

Regardless, those Knipex fucking rock. The 5” ones live in my range bag.

For a while I tried carefully wrapping the barrel with gaffer tape during changes etc but FUCK it started to feel like I’m that anxious guy from the Simpsons with his comic books in Mylar sleeves yelling at customers.

So, I’ve embraced scratches. Used-looking rifles look cool too, but that’s just my take.

 

[diggler1833]

I hand-tight my barrels, and use a calibrated guess for torquing the screw with the Allen wrench provided under the cheek piece. Purists are going to be upset at me for not unraveling my $3,500 AI torque driver roll, and wearing a $600 lab coat for swapping my barrels back and forth...

...but it works.


My other actions (non AI) I do in fact, use the correct action and torque wrenches with a barrel vise. One of the reasons why I got the AI was to not have to mess with that stuff.

 

[Bacarrat]

Blue painters tape works too.

 

[HKSniper11B]

Blue painters tape works too.

This is what I use as well. Keeps it simple and easy. Especially for installing muzzle brakes, etc.

 

[anon]

G3 Razor again through EV for $2,400,

EV? Who dat?

 

[carbonbased]

Blue painters tape works too.

Just felt like that guy who keeps his Dept 56 Xmas displays in the box, ya know? (That’d be my straight brother! Wtf, I say, wtf to him indeed)

 

[TheOE800]

EV? Who dat?

ExpertVoice

 

[MK20]

I hate that video so goddamn much... Just because it "works" doesn't mean folks should be doing that. So much unnecessary stress is being put on the action from those hammer whacks. If it was life or death and it had to get done? Fine... But it's a sniper rifle, not an M240B for Pete's sake. If you're changing your barrels, do it right or don't do it at all.

Yes, I'm sure your concerns make Jacob quake after he has over 300K rounds on that action changing his barrels that way.

 

[Edsel]

For a while I tried carefully wrapping the barrel with gaffer tape…

I learned of using Dry Wall Tape for these kinds of things from someone on YouTube…

Been using it for these purposes ever since.

It’s nonadhesive, keep a short length in your bag.

 

[Movistar]

I hand-tight my barrels, and use a calibrated guess for torquing the screw with the Allen wrench provided under the cheek piece. Purists are going to be upset at me for not unraveling my $3,500 AI torque driver roll, and wearing a $600 lab coat for swapping my barrels back and forth...

...but it works.


My other actions (non AI) I do in fact, use the correct action and torque wrenches with a barrel vise. One of the reasons why I got the AI was to not have to mess with that stuf

Im not here to judge. I don’t really understand not shelling out $50-100 for the torque limiter for the barrel screw. Doing it wrong can be very expensive. So why not do it right? No I won’t pay $600 for a lab coat or $1000 for a kiafrufru range bag. But guessing on the barrel screw torque? Yeah I’ll buy the torque limiter

 

[Edsel]

Yeah I’ll buy the torque limiter

What’s recommended?

Fix - it Sticks?

Borkas?

Thinking of getting a small set.

 

[Movistar]

I like my fix it sticks set. I got the whole set because I wanted to have the torque limiters for scopes and mounts too. I tend to gorilla things on accident so I wanted to remove my dumb ass being a factor. Got my set with with 4 limiters for $179.

 

[HKSniper11B]

What’s recommended?

Fix - it Sticks?

Borkas?

Thinking of getting a small set.

+1 Fixit-Sticks

 

[Movistar]

Not affiliated with the company or the seller here. This is what I got and it’s covered all my bases

https://gunmagwarehouse.com/fix-it-sticks-torque-limiter-kit-with-t-way-wrench.html?queryID=84294338ecad7da988a1591d780f766c&objectID=6101&indexName=m2_prod_default_products

 

[hafejd30]

I run the fix it sticks as well. I have a 55 in lbs limiter for my AI’s and a 140 for my LMT MWS

 

[TylerN]

Fixit sticks. I just got the single torque limiter that I need and not the entire set. I think I use the 49 in-lbs one and it works great, is small, and simple to use.