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Accuracy International Picture Thread

Hard to say. Lots of things circled in there. Could be a bolt release, could be an action. Who’s to say, really?
He's asking why there's a recession in the action.
I think you're confusing two different AI barrel systems, maybe? You referenced a pic of an AXSR and asked about barrel flats and strap wrenches, etc. "Hand-tight" is what is SPECIFIED in the manual for the AXMC, AXSR, and other platforms that use the Quick-Loc barrel system. Hand-tight sets the headspace properly, and the lock mechanism, properly torqued to approx. 50 in.lbs provides the force to keep it locked firmly in place with no need for additional torque on the barrel. The flats are handy in case one ever got stuck and wouldn't come off by hand, but I have changed quite a few around and never run into that. It seems to me that torquing one of these barrels significantly more than hand-tight could potentially damage the receiver threads since the threads are split longitudinally (to make the clamp) and not designed to take that much torque with the clamp loosened for barrel changing. The i.d. of the receiver threads is relaxed (larger) with the clamp loosened, and the threads don't go 360 deg around the tenon of the barrel - there is a gap in the threads at the bottom.

You would be correct, however, on the earlier, non Quick-Loc designs, which definitely need substantially more torque than hand-tight because they don't have the clamping mechanism.
I have 19mm (for Lothar-Walther and Bartlein/WinTac barrels) and 22mm surgical wrenches (for current Accuracy International factory barrels) which are rubber coated I use specifically for barrel wrenches as barrels on my quick change AT308 have always gotten stuck when I go to pull them. The rubber coating helps prevent marring the Cerakote on the barrel.

But digressing, this is the correct answer.
 
Mmm, I don’t think so with the Quick-Locs. The video you mention is Jake Bynum from Rifles Only, with a non Quick- Loc action. They are supposed to be torqued to a specific (higher) value, and the point of his video was that “whatever”that specific value is, isn’t that important. Just good and TIGHT (whack the big wrench with a big hammer, no torque wrench for him). But those rifles are supposed to have their barrels on tight because they lack the retention mechanism of the Quick-Loc. I don’t have an AT, just AXMC and AXSR. What does your manual say?
I hate that video so goddamn much... Just because it "works" doesn't mean folks should be doing that. So much unnecessary stress is being put on the action from those hammer whacks. If it was life or death and it had to get done? Fine... But it's a sniper rifle, not an M240B for Pete's sake. If you're changing your barrels, do it right or don't do it at all.
 
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I do 55 in/lbs as well.


View attachment 8692359
Nothing about barrel torque…hmmmm
The "barrel torque" is, essentially, the barrel screw torque. The tolerances of machining in the action and on the barrels is such that "hand tight" of screwing the barrel in, is all that's needed to ensure there's zero gap between the barrel and action. Everything that keeps the barrel in place is being done by that barrel screw at 49 inch pounds.
 
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All right, just got off the phone with an AINA tech. Folks are correct that one doesn’t need to do anything more than hand tight when screwing in a barrel.

But he also said what I do with a Cresent wrench doesn’t hurt the action at all. Whew.

He mentioned that ~100 ft/lbs might cause problems (barrel torque, not the little screw), but he said I can’t get anywhere near that sort of torque with my method.

Well, I guess I’ll try just hand tight (plus, of course, the little screw). 50% tool use reduction during barrel swaps! Lol

Edit: thx @vh20!
 
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He's asking why there's a recession in the action.

I have 19mm (for Lothar-Walther and Bartlein/WinTac barrels) and 22mm surgical wrenches (for current Accuracy International factory barrels) which are rubber coated I use specifically for barrel wrenches as barrels on my quick change AT308 have always gotten stuck when I go to pull them. The rubber coating helps prevent marring the Cerakote on the barrel.

But digressing, this is the correct answer.

1747933465013.jpeg
1747933568555.jpeg


Knipex parallel - jaw pliers, with rubber protectors.

I wonder…
 
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Knipex parallel - jaw pliers, with rubber protectors.
I wonder…
I own the 10”, 7”, and 5” versions of that wrench. Awesome. But finally went with a Lobtex Japanese adjustable wrench (negligible slop/backing off!) for barrel changes as it’s faster to get the right width. Buuut now I just learned my hands are enough! Lol for AI’s at least.

Regardless, those Knipex fucking rock. The 5” ones live in my range bag.

For a while I tried carefully wrapping the barrel with gaffer tape during changes etc but FUCK it started to feel like I’m that anxious guy from the Simpsons with his comic books in Mylar sleeves yelling at customers.

So, I’ve embraced scratches. Used-looking rifles look cool too, but that’s just my take.
 
I hand-tight my barrels, and use a calibrated guess for torquing the screw with the Allen wrench provided under the cheek piece. Purists are going to be upset at me for not unraveling my $3,500 AI torque driver roll, and wearing a $600 lab coat for swapping my barrels back and forth...

...but it works.


My other actions (non AI) I do in fact, use the correct action and torque wrenches with a barrel vise. One of the reasons why I got the AI was to not have to mess with that stuff.
 
I hate that video so goddamn much... Just because it "works" doesn't mean folks should be doing that. So much unnecessary stress is being put on the action from those hammer whacks. If it was life or death and it had to get done? Fine... But it's a sniper rifle, not an M240B for Pete's sake. If you're changing your barrels, do it right or don't do it at all.

Yes, I'm sure your concerns make Jacob quake after he has over 300K rounds on that action changing his barrels that way.
 
I hand-tight my barrels, and use a calibrated guess for torquing the screw with the Allen wrench provided under the cheek piece. Purists are going to be upset at me for not unraveling my $3,500 AI torque driver roll, and wearing a $600 lab coat for swapping my barrels back and forth...

...but it works.


My other actions (non AI) I do in fact, use the correct action and torque wrenches with a barrel vise. One of the reasons why I got the AI was to not have to mess with that stuf

Im not here to judge. I don’t really understand not shelling out $50-100 for the torque limiter for the barrel screw. Doing it wrong can be very expensive. So why not do it right? No I won’t pay $600 for a lab coat or $1000 for a kiafrufru range bag. But guessing on the barrel screw torque? Yeah I’ll buy the torque limiter
 
I resisted fixit sticks individual limiters for the longest time…first the Fat Wrench, then the all-in-one fixits, then, finally, reluctantly, convenience and user-friendliness won out and fixit sticks emptied my balls wallet. Ahhhhhh…

But I didn’t get their bits or cases. I like 2” bits (power bits?) with big/very visible engraved sizes on the sides. Way easier to use in the freezing cold. I own some very nice German bits that I can BARELY see the sizes on the side.

VEGA brand bits rock and they satisfy my criteria. Example of engraving
1747959988036.png


Except for torx bits…I like color-coded stuff because it’s faster to select. The GRK torx bits that come with their screws are nice in this regard. Places like Home Depot typically sell just the bits:
1747959661248.png


Cases (currently 2 for 1):
 
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@carbonbased i still keep my fat wrench for scope mounting and some oddball stuff but the individuals in my opinion trump the all in one fixit. I did buy their T handle thing and I use that thing constantly. Worth every penny. I should upgrade my bits though now that I've started standardizing everything.
Same. I have a couple fat wrenches I use for everything. The fix it sticks and T handle for the quick change stuff. I have a ton of bits, extensions and torque wrenches from 4 to 200 inch lbs. Also have the all in one kit for my bag. Can never have enough
 
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I must be the only AI shooter who rarely swaps his barrel, and very rarely in the field.
I've pretty much settled on mine living as a 300 PRC over the last year and really haven't been switching calibers much. Most of my short action reloading is going into my PRS guns so I haven't had a lot of time to worry about shooting smaller stuff through that rifle.

I always find it fascinating to hear people online that are switching cartridges multiple times whenever they're at the range.
 
@carbonbased i still keep my fat wrench for scope mounting and some oddball stuff but the individuals in my opinion trump the all in one fixit. I did buy their T handle thing and I use that thing constantly. Worth every penny. I should upgrade my bits though now that I've started standardizing everything.
I see my fat wrench ever year or so. It floats between my work bench and the tool cabinet. I haven't used it in probably 5 years so I'm not sure how it gets around. Probably the lost sock gremlins.
 
I've pretty much settled on mine living as a 300 PRC over the last year and really haven't been switching calibers much. Most of my short action reloading is going into my PRS guns so I haven't had a lot of time to worry about shooting smaller stuff through that rifle.

I always find it fascinating to hear people online that are switching cartridges multiple times whenever they're at the range.

I don't change barrels at the range, but I do tend to shoot a cartridge for a few months or a few hundred rounds, then move on to another just to mix it up.
 
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Hmmmm yeah I get it. That’s not enough torque for me, I guess. I agree with @bohem ’s advice


10” Cresent wrench Is what I use, and I snap it tight as I hold it between the legs. But if hand tight works for you, I’m not arguing. Just didn’t consider people forgoing machined-in flats, which kinda boxes you into hand tight or futzing with a strap wrench.
FWIW: When I commented in that thread, I only use the wrench for return to zero consistency on my AT. Like you found out from your phone call, no issues at all going hand tight only if you plan on leaving the barrel installed or have a chance to zero it. You can even get decent RTZ with hand tight if you have some sort of index mark. The wrench is just quicker.
 
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He's asking why there's a recession in the action.

I have 19mm (for Lothar-Walther and Bartlein/WinTac barrels) and 22mm surgical wrenches (for current Accuracy International factory barrels) which are rubber coated I use specifically for barrel wrenches as barrels on my quick change AT308 have always gotten stuck when I go to pull them. The rubber coating helps prevent marring the Cerakote on the barrel.

But digressing, this is the correct answer.

@BurtG would like a word
 
I hate that video so goddamn much... Just because it "works" doesn't mean folks should be doing that. So much unnecessary stress is being put on the action from those hammer whacks. If it was life or death and it had to get done? Fine... But it's a sniper rifle, not an M240B for Pete's sake. If you're changing your barrels, do it right or don't do it at all.
Trust me, that man knows more about running an AI than anyone on this forum.
I’m just going to leave it at that.
-Doc
 
I have the precision rifle Fix-It Sticks kit, Ive used if more on other peoples rifles than my own, at a match at least. Everything from pulling a ruptured case out, pushing a bullet out of the lands, torquing screws on tripods, optics, action screws, etc. Extremely handy, and Im glad those shooters were able to continue shooting the matches.

But yes, change out the bits, the standard ones are garbage.
 
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Me too. I got the non-ratcheting version and really like it.

If AI really wanted to mint some dollars they’d brand a big set of fixit sticks and put it in a DPM pattern pouch or something lol
You just gotta roll your own dawg. Plus you know AI would sell that kit at the same markup level as that ridiculous Kifaru bag.
 

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I must be the only AI shooter who rarely swaps his barrel, and very rarely in the field.
Never in the field for me. But lately I’ve been bouncing between 308 and 6br. Hopefully soon settling on good ole 22-250…waiting on a barrel. Then I’ll probably rarely take it off unless I want to deep clean or something.

22-250: I’m not a steel shooter; I like varmint shooting and don’t reload. And I want to use my AT more.
 
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I'm pretty sure I've shared these before. The official roll-up kit I felt was too bulky and didn't hold enough. So, I opted for a children's pencil case. I built out two kits. Hopefully this helps some folks here with building their own cleaning kits. (Serial Numbers have been blurred out on the patches)

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Complete list of cleaning parts is as follows:

"I used a children's school pencil bag as my case (Amazon) It is 9" in height, and under 4" thick. It worked perfectly.

"Cleaning kit is from OTIS which includes both nylon and phosphor brushes, using a brass rod to mitigate marring. Tools are from Fix-It Sticks, which includes a full SPUHR kit and a 49 in/lbs torque limiter for barrel changes. Also included is a Hoppe's Bore Viper, a medical rubberized 19mm wrench used as a barrel wrench, a Klein folding hex key from 1.5mm to 6mm, an aluminum milled Accuracy International factory bore rod guide imported from the UK, and Pro-Shot 2" cleaning patches. "

UPDATE: Link to pencil case: https://a.co/d/087Kzcg
UPDATE 2: Link to the wrench. Gedore is the brand, and they're German made steel, imported. https://a.co/d/7x1aPkf
 
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I'm pretty sure I've shared these before. The official roll-up kit I felt was too bulky and didn't hold enough. So, I opted for a children's pencil case. I built out two kits. Hopefully this helps some folks here with building their own cleaning kits. (Serial Numbers have been blurred out on the patches)

View attachment 8692803

View attachment 8692804

Complete list of cleaning parts is as follows:

"I used a children's school pencil bag as my case (Amazon) It is 9" in height, and under 4" thick. It worked perfectly.

"Cleaning kit is from OTIS which includes both nylon and phosphor brushes, using a brass rod to mitigate marring. Tools are from Fix-It Sticks, which includes a full SPUHR kit and a 49 in/lbs torque limiter for barrel changes. Also included is a Hoppe's Bore Viper, a medical rubberized 19mm wrench used as a barrel wrench, a Klein folding hex key from 1.5mm to 6mm, an aluminum milled Accuracy International factory bore rod guide imported from the UK, and Pro-Shot 2" cleaning patches. "

UPDATE: Link to pencil case: https://a.co/d/087Kzcg
Brand of the medical rubberized 19mm wrench please. I tried searching and it doesn’t pull anything up
 
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