This is correct. My 2014 AT’s have the same stamps on the action. Assuming anything AI imported through there got stamps
Import marks before they started putting them on the side. Oak Ridge around that time.Anyone have an idea on the writing on top of action ?
I just noticed it in this pic and will remove mount to see more
Also anyone know why there could be a possible check mark on top of bolt ?
The tick is probably just sharpie. Use isopropyl to wipe it off. Don’t think too hard into it…
Thx all for the comments
Here are some better pics of the old girl
Here are some better pics of the old girl
There have been several importers over the years. I dont know the list. Probably corresponds to the year of import.
Seems like a research project someone should look into and publish.
98 = Oak Ridge?
06 = Mingus
95 = Gunsite
Seems like a research project someone should look into and publish.
98 = Oak Ridge?
06 = Mingus
95 = Gunsite
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Man.. you WAS literally on the row with the pictures.. until..well just an advice, you should take down 1 of those pictures. Or you’ll get an ear full of post here. It’s the obvious one.Some shooters
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Had some fun at NRA Whittington with my AT-X a few weeks back. Shot out to 1900 yards and tried to connect at 2050 but ran out of elevation and the wind was going crazy. The round 1 mile target is 30" and we put a beating on it as you can see. Super happy with the AI and the experience at Whittington is highly recommended
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After 5 months of being a safe queen finally shot the AT today.
Not nice tiny groups to show off but the rifle is a joy to shoot. The mighty 308 is a little hard to keep on target for spotting impacts/misses, but considering it was was first few boxes of ammo through it, I felt it did alright.
Not nice tiny groups to show off but the rifle is a joy to shoot. The mighty 308 is a little hard to keep on target for spotting impacts/misses, but considering it was was first few boxes of ammo through it, I felt it did alright.
308 = GOD's caliber
I don't mind the challenge at longer distances.
I don't reload, so caliber makes little difference in terms of available factory-loaded ammunition. I can get .308 factory-loaded that has comparable SDs to factory-loaded 6.5 CM. 6.5 CM is a better LR round due to higher BC bullets. Higher BC bullets in .308 would be great, but I can't see that happening.
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I have a 6.5cm barrel for it, but keen to try a match with this shorty barrel and blast through the factory ammo I have.
Mine is probably my favorite rifle I've ever shot. It does really well with both Berger 130 and 140 grain hybrids. I bought a couple of new barrels not long ago, all three barrels are outstanding. Two are Bartlein and the other is Proof Research stainless steel
I have a question for the learned AI experts to help understand an issue with my AXMC using my new 300 WM bolt.
I configured the MC with the new bolt body, a new AI 300 PRC barrel, and a new magazine that has been tuned for 300 PRC (red follower). I went to zero it today. The rifle performed well in terms of accuracy. I had it zeroed in 3 shots. I used Hornady 300 PRC ammo with the 225-grain bullet. Before I began the process, I loaded the magazine, put the safety in the middle position, and cycled the bolt to check feeding and extraction. All of the rounds loaded and extracted perfectly. The bolt ran smoothly during chambering and extraction.
I then began the zeroing process. I fired one round, and was pleasantly surprised that the POI was minimally different than when shooting .308. Here is where the issue began. After firing, cycling the bolt required considerable force to open it fully. It went up to a point close to the top, but then required excessive force to lock it in the open position so I could extract the fired cartridge. I fired a total of 15 cartridges. All required extra effort to lock the bolt open, so it could extract the round. Some required more force than others.
I measured fired and unfired cartridges, and dimensionally, they were almost identical. The only measurement that was different was the diameter of the neck. An unfired case measured 0.338" while the fired case neck diameter measured 0.345". I don't know if that is normal since I don't reload.
Any thoughts?
I configured the MC with the new bolt body, a new AI 300 PRC barrel, and a new magazine that has been tuned for 300 PRC (red follower). I went to zero it today. The rifle performed well in terms of accuracy. I had it zeroed in 3 shots. I used Hornady 300 PRC ammo with the 225-grain bullet. Before I began the process, I loaded the magazine, put the safety in the middle position, and cycled the bolt to check feeding and extraction. All of the rounds loaded and extracted perfectly. The bolt ran smoothly during chambering and extraction.
I then began the zeroing process. I fired one round, and was pleasantly surprised that the POI was minimally different than when shooting .308. Here is where the issue began. After firing, cycling the bolt required considerable force to open it fully. It went up to a point close to the top, but then required excessive force to lock it in the open position so I could extract the fired cartridge. I fired a total of 15 cartridges. All required extra effort to lock the bolt open, so it could extract the round. Some required more force than others.
I measured fired and unfired cartridges, and dimensionally, they were almost identical. The only measurement that was different was the diameter of the neck. An unfired case measured 0.338" while the fired case neck diameter measured 0.345". I don't know if that is normal since I don't reload.
Any thoughts?
Factory rounds can have over pressure. Try a lighter grain. I’ve seen 6.5 CM have issues in some guns with factory ammo as well
After trying 6.5 CM and 300 PRC I seen pressure issues and went back to my 260 and would go back to 300 WM throated longer if I went back to a long action mag again
Could also be jammed in the lans, or carbon ring if you barrel is dirty. Not saying yours is.
First time firing a new barrel. I didn't see any grooves in the bullet when I cycled them before firing.
But great suggestions, TY.
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Does Hornady crimp the bullet? I’ve seen some factory (not Hornady) ones that have some type of glue on the heads also. Though I’ve only seen it on 223 rounds.
But then again.. other things to consider. Hornady brass is not the greatest either. I don’t use Hornady brass but I’ve heard they are soft an thin. So the pressure could be expanding out to the base of the case as well. Causing such over pressure signs. I wouldn’t worry about it imo. I say you should be fine shooting them. I mean you don’t reload so your just gonna toss those factory brass anyways. But if you ever do reload, buy Lapua and don’t reload range picked brass.
