So i know there is alot of topics on bedding but i couldnt find one to answer my simple question (please dont laugh).... When removing material before bedding is it to just rough up the area for better adhesion or to remove enough material to give the stock "room" for the putty to conform to the action and not just ooze all out when the action is placed in?
Gunsmithing Another bedding question??
- Thread starter STI_1911_Guy
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Re: Another bedding question??
Both. The problem with just "roughing it up" is that it is almost impossible to tell if you have a "hard spot" where you are getting potential deformation. You need to have enough mass to resist the recoil deformation forces as well. JMHO
Both. The problem with just "roughing it up" is that it is almost impossible to tell if you have a "hard spot" where you are getting potential deformation. You need to have enough mass to resist the recoil deformation forces as well. JMHO
Re: Another bedding question??
Varies depending on the epoxy, and the area in question...
Behind the recoil lug, I wouldn't want any less than 1/4" or so...high stress area. Personally, I try to get at least 1/8" everywhere that it's possible. Some areas, like the sides of the receiver, may be tough to get that much.
Epoxy bonds two ways- chemically(molecular bond), and mechanically. On wood and fiberglass, you get a good chemical bond- the way it's supposed to be. On some plastics, synthetic stocks, the epoxy won't bond well to it chemically. So, "roughing" up the surface helps maintain the bond so it doesn't break loose. Cutting angled slots/holes deeper into the stock and making sure the epoxy presses into them helps...
Varies depending on the epoxy, and the area in question...
Behind the recoil lug, I wouldn't want any less than 1/4" or so...high stress area. Personally, I try to get at least 1/8" everywhere that it's possible. Some areas, like the sides of the receiver, may be tough to get that much.
Epoxy bonds two ways- chemically(molecular bond), and mechanically. On wood and fiberglass, you get a good chemical bond- the way it's supposed to be. On some plastics, synthetic stocks, the epoxy won't bond well to it chemically. So, "roughing" up the surface helps maintain the bond so it doesn't break loose. Cutting angled slots/holes deeper into the stock and making sure the epoxy presses into them helps...
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