Well what's your noggin worth? If you can't find any shell deformation, no cracking on the inside it's probably good for some more. I typically replace my daily half shell helmets every 2-3 years unless there have been some hits on them and it gets shortened up. The styrofoam is going to get brittle over time and not absorb energy like a new one. There could be some damage there that your can not see. Many of the good helmet manufacturers offer a crash replacement discount also. I replaced a Leatt Enduro helmet for half the price this year.
Any mountain bikers out there 2.0
- Thread starter jbell
- Start date
Whether I ride 100 miles or 10000 miles in a year, I retire a helmet after 12 months. AND Im the kind of guy that never leaves helmet in the car and washes after every ride.
Got a chance today to go for a short ride at lunch. Took my son and he was on his new YT Izzo, he did much better on a FS than a HT. I'll still require him to use the HT so he can keep learning. Good first outing as I have been snow boarding during the winter and didn't mtb at all.
That sounds awesome Shooter! I am still on the trainer for a little longer, but it’s getting close! First race is just over a month away…
I need to start training to get better. I wouldn't mind racing again either. Do you have any training plans that you would be willing to share. Also, I hope you kick ass during the races.
Thank you. I use Traineroad, have for years. But I slightly modify the training plans to fit my specific needs. I think if you have a power meter or a smart trainer (even a dumb trainer with virtual power) the training plans TR offers are very good! The latest adaptive training and AI FTP detection is a big improvement over an already great product.
I have to email them to see if the can retro fit my BNIB Raceface Next carbon crank set. They only have Shimano stuff listed for sending in to them.
We are itching to hit the trails here in Colorado. Snow fall in the mountains has been off the charts and ski areas have been reporting 300-400 total inches of snowfall this year.....crazy. Rained, snowed and hailed here at 5000 feet today.......AGAIN!!
Our trails turn to Peanut Butter and become unridable real quick so riding in the moisture is not an option. Hopefully mother nature will show us some love soon.
Our trails turn to Peanut Butter and become unridable real quick so riding in the moisture is not an option. Hopefully mother nature will show us some love soon.
New bike day was back in December 2022....still waiting on the weather for a proper ride.
Sold my sons Santa Cruz Bronson and found a new in the box bargain for him!!!
Any Guesses?
Sold my sons Santa Cruz Bronson and found a new in the box bargain for him!!!
Any Guesses?
My bad, I wasn’t clear. I’m looking at getting a stages power meter installed on my crank so that I can use Trainerroad
Gotcha, what cranks do you have? Shimano? It may be easier or just as cheap to buy a stages crank arm.
I have Raceface Next cranks. To have them add it to my current cranks is like $350. To purchase their crank will be over $500 and I need to get their spindle. I don’t know what the additional cost would be for that.
Yeah, I just looked the RF power meter spindle is $600. I had 2 pair of Next SL cranks that I broke, pulled the threads for the pedal out of one and split the other down the middle lengthwise. It bummed me out because they were light weight cranks and the chainrings never creaked like the SRAMs have a tendency to do…
So I was doing a new trail and the trees are so close it almost impossible to get through some sections. Back in the day I believe my XC bike had 24 or 26 inch (around 650mm)handle bars and today they are 760mm (almost 30"). So in a quest to figure out how short I should go I came across this vid on handle bar width and shoulder pain.
Any way I thought I would go down to 740, however, my Race face Next bars will allow me to go to 710. I might just do 720. Has anyone here cut down their bars to less than 740 and any input if it affected your shoulders (good or bad)?
Any way I thought I would go down to 740, however, my Race face Next bars will allow me to go to 710. I might just do 720. Has anyone here cut down their bars to less than 740 and any input if it affected your shoulders (good or bad)?
I run narrower bars than a lot of people, around 720mm no bigger than 740 mm but I only do endurance XC stuff so I care more about aero than power on the bars. Plus I live in the East which has some TIGHT trails. I don't have any opinion or thoughts on shoulder pain vs bar width. Sorry...
I think it's plenty. I have seen a lot of DH pros going to narrower bars the last serval years.
Run bars that suit your trails, and that you're comfy with. I'm tall with a big wingspan and I'm around 740mm for my comfort zone. It cracks me up seeing tiny people running 800mm bars because it's the cool thing to do.
Exactly! Same as seeing guys on 160 bikes on XC trails that I'm passing on my hardtail single speed. I always chuckle at people way over biking
That's funny for me. I took a 120mm fork off of my HT and put a 140mm on it. I figured my Pivot Mach 4SL was the only XC bike I need and wanted some thing that was more challenging. The Yelli Screamy HT I have is spec up to 140mm travel fork so that's what I went with. The trails I'll be doing are rocky and full of roots, both up hill and down hill. I don't know if it will be over biked, but I am hoping it's a blast to ride and if not I can put the 120mm fork back on it.
It's hard to be over biked on a HT no matter how much you have up front...
I can kinda see the big travel bike on tame trails, as maybe they only have the one bike possibly.
My rowdy HT is quite possibly more fun that my squishy bike. It encourages you to do dumb things.
My rowdy HT is quite possibly more fun that my squishy bike. It encourages you to do dumb things.
760mm is about what I have settled on. I liked the 780mm a bit better to but my wrist did not at all.
I keep thinking about building a single speed and never get around to it. I kinda want to do it with some bigger 27.5" tires since I have a nice wheel set to do it with.
I keep thinking about building a single speed and never get around to it. I kinda want to do it with some bigger 27.5" tires since I have a nice wheel set to do it with.
My current single speed is a Trek Stache 29+ with a Manitou 120 up front. It's stupid fun, kinda like a BMX bike on Steroids.
I should be good with shorter handlebars if this guy can ride that
^^That dude is ripping on a kids bike. I'd die first corner.
DO IT!! I thought single speeds were the dumbest thing on the planet for the longest time. Then I thought my first one was going to kill me for the first month or so. Now I can't imagine not haivng one in the stable. People think I'm a bit nuts for having a fat, heavy (for a SS) rowdy SS with a dropper, but man I love that thing to bits. This one was never once ridden with a derailleur, converted it as soon as we un-boxed it.
I have been riding Silt wheels for a while now and just wanted to share my opinion. I was looking for cheap carbon fiber wheels that weren't made in China or at least not shipped from China. This company is out of Northern Ireland and I wasn't able to find out if the wheels where made (ie China or Taiwan). If interested just google Silt wheels as I am not shilling for them, but just sharing my opinion.
The wheels have a similar ratchet system as DT hubs and come with a 36 tooth ratchet. These can be upgraded by you by adding the upgrade ratchet 54 tooth kit. Also, you will need their Ratchet tool.
I have been riding their Carbon AM wheels (weight 1,758g) and my son has been riding their XC Carbon wheels (weight 1,336g). These wheels have held up really well as I have bashed them through rock gardens and some gnarly rock climbs. So, if your are looking for an inexpensive set of carbon wheels I don't think you will be disappointed. That said these are going to become a back up wheels set. As I just order some Atomik Carbon wheels with I9 Hydra hubs and Berd spokes.
The wheels have a similar ratchet system as DT hubs and come with a 36 tooth ratchet. These can be upgraded by you by adding the upgrade ratchet 54 tooth kit. Also, you will need their Ratchet tool.
I have been riding their Carbon AM wheels (weight 1,758g) and my son has been riding their XC Carbon wheels (weight 1,336g). These wheels have held up really well as I have bashed them through rock gardens and some gnarly rock climbs. So, if your are looking for an inexpensive set of carbon wheels I don't think you will be disappointed. That said these are going to become a back up wheels set. As I just order some Atomik Carbon wheels with I9 Hydra hubs and Berd spokes.
So, I cut my handle bars down to 720mm and it's awesome. I am able to rip through the tree sections. Another benefit is that I am able to engage my lats on climbs instead of just using my shoulders. Cut my overall pace down by 20 sec a mile and that feels huge.
I am still finding myself bashing rocks with peddle strikes so I decided to put off getting a power meter and try something different. I have alway ridden with 175mm cranks and the Pivot I have now is no different. Pivot equipped this bike with Raceface Affect R cranks, pretty cheap part for what you pay for the bike. However, this will allow me to try a 165mm crank without breaking the bank. The Raceface Affect R crank set is $135 and I feel that is worth trying before I fork out money carbon cranks and the power meter. They should be here this Friday so, I'll ride them for a while see and how that feels before looking for new carbon cranks.
I am still finding myself bashing rocks with peddle strikes so I decided to put off getting a power meter and try something different. I have alway ridden with 175mm cranks and the Pivot I have now is no different. Pivot equipped this bike with Raceface Affect R cranks, pretty cheap part for what you pay for the bike. However, this will allow me to try a 165mm crank without breaking the bank. The Raceface Affect R crank set is $135 and I feel that is worth trying before I fork out money carbon cranks and the power meter. They should be here this Friday so, I'll ride them for a while see and how that feels before looking for new carbon cranks.
Bad ass! I'm right there with you on the pedal strikes. Been on 175mm since the beginning of time. But I just ordered a new Quarq crank set @ 170 mm last week, should be here today. I almost went 165mm but that's a BIG change.
I say do it. I found a site where you can put in your inseam and it gives you what it thinks you should ride. I have a 32" inseam and it suggested 165mm cranks. I was originally going to go 170mm, but 165mm didn't seam like that much more of a jump.
I don't remember the site, but I sure you can google "what is the right crank size for me" and find it or another one.
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I used one of the crank length calculators a year or two ago and it said I should be on 180mm (36" inseam) I thought that would be terrible in the dirt. Maybe on the road, but not in the dirt.
That's a great race for sure. I have raced it a few times. I heard that they had to cancel it because some property owners on some of the back roads were complaining. Did they have to change the course or something?
Alright what do you guys recommend for someone that used to race bmx and wants to get sort of back into bikes but hasn’t rode in probably 26 years?
It depends on the kind of trails you want to ride and the style of riding. If your just in it for fun I would get a full suspension trail bike. I would also look to get at least SRAM NX or Shimano SLX components. You can save a lot of money by buying direct from companies like YT and others. I’m going to guess bikes are going to be in the 3k range. You might find the used market can get you a lot of bike for less money. I have seen 7k bikes selling for 4k that are barely used.
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YT? I kind of want something that I can grow into. You never know I may get all into this and don’t want l waste money having to upgrade later. With that said, for starters I need something that I could ride from a street onto a trail as it likely won’t be for either full time. I for sure do not want a rod bike. I hate them and their curved down handles.
just can’t get used to anything like them. Think something like an oversized BMX bike. That’s precisely what I want.
YT Industries is a direct to consumer brand. Others are Commencal, Canyon, Gorilla Gravity and more. I believe your looking for a trail bike. You can have fun jumping then in the parks and they tend to be a jack off all trades on the trails.YT? I kind of want something that I can grow into. You never know I may get all into this and don’t want l waste money having to upgrade later. With that said, for starters I need something that I could ride from a street onto a trail as it likely won’t be for either full time. I for sure do not want a rod bike. I hate them and their curved down handles.
If you want say a hard core hard tail I would look Canfield bikes or Nuke proof. They put 130mm fork in the front to give more travel on the fork compared to a XC bike which tend to be between 100mm and 120mm of travel.
YELLI SCREAMY - Aluminum Hardtail 29er
The first hardtail to bring the party to wagon wheels is back with a vengeance. Long before “downcountry” was a word, the Yelli Screamy was an XC bike with an identity crisis. The Yelli Screamy is the most fun you can have on an aluminum hardtail 29er.
canfieldbikes.com
Nukeproof Scout 290 Elite
A finely tuned weapon built for attacking trail, the Nukeproof Scout 290 Elite has earned a cult-like following for its playful handling.
us.nukeproof.com
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Man I bruised my ego yesterday and my body. I got raspberries on my knee, elbow and back. I was 5 miles into a 20 mile ride and I ate it. The funny thing is I don't really have any idea why or how. I was heading down hill, not steep, on a long trail in open prairie. The trail is really dusty. I got to the turn like I normally do and next thing you know I am on the ground. The only thing I can think of is the front tire gave out. BTW that 20 mile ride turned into 10 miles and I went to the SUV and cleaned myself up.
I am using Maxxis Ardent Race and they have been great on the loose dust. Way better then the Nobby Nick tire I have on my front tire of my Pivot. The Nobby Nick gives out on the loose dust, but tends to be predictable and I can catch it when it does. I am ordering a Maxxis Rekon for the front to pair it up with the Ardent Race rear. However, it looks like with the rain coming and my trips for work it will be at least 10 days before I can get back out and that sucks.
I am using Maxxis Ardent Race and they have been great on the loose dust. Way better then the Nobby Nick tire I have on my front tire of my Pivot. The Nobby Nick gives out on the loose dust, but tends to be predictable and I can catch it when it does. I am ordering a Maxxis Rekon for the front to pair it up with the Ardent Race rear. However, it looks like with the rain coming and my trips for work it will be at least 10 days before I can get back out and that sucks.
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New front triangle, fresh brakes, complete suspension service including dampers, new tires, and after 32 years on 175mm cranks I'm trying it 170mm...
