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AR10 reloading

Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">if you're talking about CPU it is the same as a bolt gun't tolerance </div></div>

I've noticed that I can't get within a ,8-.5gr of published max loads though before ejector swipes start getting fairly deep. What do you think of swipes as far as using them for a pressure sign in gas guns? It seems there are 2 lines of though on them. Some disregard them as quirks of a gas gun and others avoid them like the plague. I'm kind of in the middle myself.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

I don't ignore the marks but pay more attention to the primers. Every gun is little different. all the 10s I have helped with load development maxed out between 44.5. and 45.5 with Win brass and RL15... same as bolt guns I have helped out with.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't ignore the marks but pay more attention to the primers. Every gun is little different. all the 10s I have helped with load development maxed out between 44.5. and 45.5 with Win brass and RL15... same as bolt guns I have helped out with. </div></div>

In my AR10 I get deep swipes before the primers flatten/crater. I'm using Winchester brass, Varget, 155 Lapuas, 155 A-Max, and 175 SMK.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">oh my info above was with 175 SMK...

are you getting the groups/speed you want before the ejector marks occur? </div></div>

No, I was hoping for at least 2800fps with the 155s or 2650 with the 175s through my 21" Noveske barrel (stainless, 1:10 poly rifling) but have only gotten to 2750 and 2590 with loads that exhibit a bit of a shiny spot from the ejector, no half circle shaped swipes. I have no complaints about the accuracy though.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

Aother question....
I don't clean my bolt rifle much, just keep the bolt lubed.
I would assume due to the design, that the BCG in the AR10 would get dirty relatively quickly...
Is there a trick? Or remove BCG clean thoroughly ,lube and reassemble?
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Falar</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Captain Kick-Ass</div><div class="ubbcode-body">oh my info above was with 175 SMK...

are you getting the groups/speed you want before the ejector marks occur? </div></div>

No, I was hoping for at least 2800fps with the 155s or 2650 with the 175s through my 21" Noveske barrel (stainless, 1:10 poly rifling) but have only gotten to 2750 and 2590 with loads that exhibit a bit of a shiny spot from the ejector, no half circle shaped swipes. I have no complaints about the accuracy though. </div></div>

it is just up to you if you want to push it to where it takes a toll on the brass... my load shows the marks but not bad
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Or remove BCG clean thoroughly ,lube and reassemble?
</div></div>

yes


I take it all apart, blow it all out with brake cleaner (not the rubber ring on the extractor spring), dry with air compressor, soak it in lube, wait 15 minutes, blow all excess lube of with air compressor until a very light film is left, rub with cotton cloth to make sure no extra oil, reassemble

I run mine as dry as possible.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

These arent the greatest..but some I've come up with while experimenting:
178amxloads.jpg

dpms24lrloads.jpg

.
Shot w/ DPMS LR308 24"...from the 2nd group buy here on the hide.
dpmsmagpul.jpg

.
Workin on some for the 16" now too
 
Re: AR10 reloading

This is my max load, start lower and work up. I run the following:

Winchester Case
175 grain SMK
43.9 grains Varget
CCI Large Rifle Benchrest primer
OAL: 2.815"

I have loaded as high as 45 grains of Varget, but the AR-10 was really beating up the brass. Deep ejector swipes, and dinging the case on the shell deflector.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZ EMS Pilot</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is my max load, start lower and work up. I run the following:

Winchester Case
175 grain SMK
43.9 grains Varget
CCI Large Rifle Benchrest primer
OAL: 2.815"

I have loaded as high as 45 grains of Varget, but the AR-10 was really beating up the brass. Deep ejector swipes, and dinging the case on the shell deflector. </div></div>

I used the same components as you and up to 45gr of Varget and got the same results and had to back down to 44.2 because that brass was taking some damage. With 45gr velocity was 2631 through my 21" barrel.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sonic Sammy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't understand why you guys are using soft commercial cases in your AR-10s
Isn't Lake City brass designed specifically for the gas operated weapons? </div></div>

I don't know about anyone else, but in my case I don't use LC because of availability and case capacity. I know LC is out there but I don't feel like paying a few hundred bucks for 1000 pieces of brass and not knowing the history behind it. I've never uncrimped primer pockets either.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: queequeg</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I've never uncrimped primer pockets either.
</div></div>

Do you drink your cup of tea with pinky finger held aloft?
grin.gif
</div></div>

Hey, it is an extra step in the reloading process and would require additional equipment. To me it just seems so much easier to buy shiny new brass and then roll 'em out.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

You are certainly correct, your Lordship! I'm a cheap bastard, brass scrounger with no shame, (unless I'm caught!) so the time to decrimp is a good excuse to burn a stogie and thre is also no question the cases in question are once fired!

Just giving you some lower caste ribbing; don't kill me
whistle.gif
 
Re: AR10 reloading

chpprguy, I like CKA's cleaning method, and his method preps the BCG between trips to the range, but the group and trigger need to be prepped to shoot: a little grease applied with a 1" paint brush to the bolt lugs and while you're at it apply grease to the carrier. I think oil slings off too easily down here in the hot-ass south particularly if your gunna run n gun. Grease the sear surface that contacts the hammer. It matters. Blob some on the inside walls of the lower to catch dust and debris before it gets on your critical areas like the sear surface.
Oil applied to the carrier will settle down onto the round next into the chamber. This is bad. Use grease.
Use Slide Glide from Brian Enos.
After firing, clean all this shit off and do CKA's lube job until next time.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">chpprguy, I like CKA's cleaning method, and his method preps the BCG between trips to the range, but the group and trigger need to be prepped to shoot: a little grease applied with a 1" paint brush to the bolt lugs and while you're at it apply grease to the carrier. I think oil slings off too easily down here in the hot-ass south particularly if your gunna run n gun. Grease the sear surface that contacts the hammer. It matters. Blob some on the inside walls of the lower to catch dust and debris before it gets on your critical areas like the sear surface.
Oil applied to the carrier will settle down onto the round next into the chamber. This is bad. Use grease.
Use Slide Glide from Brian Enos.
After firing, clean all this shit off and do CKA's lube job until next time. </div></div>

Thanks,
and thanks for all the feedback everyone...
chomping at the bit for the call that it's here....
wink.gif
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: chpprguy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A
Is there a trick? Or remove BCG clean thoroughly ,lube and reassemble?
</div></div>

My trick is a polished BCG, dip my Bolt in Mobil-1, then lightly coat the BC in mobil-1. Install on gun, shoot. When I finish shooting I wipe down the BCG and bolt. Re-apply mobil-1 and put back in safe. The oil is thick enough that it never burns off and it collects all the carbon deposits so I have close to zero carbon buildup.

Only problem with this, is that once the gun heats up, the brass flys out with hot motor oil stuck to it
 
Re: AR10 reloading

Cool, I polish mine too and also use Mobil-1 for interim lube but not for shooting unless I'm doing run and gun, rattle battle shoot a bunch close up(300rds in a day). But for accuracy I don'nt won't earl (oil) near my ammo cause I don't want it in my chamber; makes funny pressure variances.
 
Re: AR10 reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: J.Boyette</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I would full length size the brass, Lee Factory crimp the bullets, and weight each charge. Set the bullet and have at it.

</div></div>

This. I'm a very ordinary marksman, and with the addition of trimming to length my DPMS is comfortably under 1 MOA with 150 SMKs over W748 loaded on a progressive press.