Gunsmithing ARC Nucleus barrel install

[Haz251]

Nucleus action will be here next Tuesday. Only remaining part i have left to get is the barrel. Plan on going with a PVA non barloc. Never fooled with the savage style barrels. Is this something I can install myself with minimal tools (action wrench, torque wrench, vice, go no go gauges, etc)? Or is it gonna require being shipped off? Thanks fellas

 

[b6graham]

did you get a savage prefit or shouldered barrel?

 

[b6graham]

either way you can do it yourself

shouldered: torque with action wrench and done

prefit: headspace and use nut

 

[Haz251]

did you get a savage prefit or shouldered barrel?

Haven't ordered yet (gotta sell one of my factory rifles first -_-) any real advantage to one over the other?

 

[b6graham]

Haven't ordered yet (gotta sell one of my factory rifles first -_-) any real advantage to one over the other?

They'll both shoot the same

I prefer aesthetics of shouldered

Prefit a little cheaper I believe

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I've got a few PVA barrels and they are all lasers. be it prefit or shouldered. easy to do. I just put my PVA cut rifled rock creek barrel on to my Nucleus. You'll love it.

 

[Haz251]

I've got a few PVA barrels and they are all lasers. be it prefit or shouldered. easy to do. I just put my PVA cut rifled rock creek barrel on to my Nucleus. You'll love it.

When you ordered your barrel did you just order the "nucleus replacement match barrel"?

 

[b6graham]

When you ordered your barrel did you just order the "nucleus replacement match barrel"?

For shouldered yes. Otherwise it's the savage small shank prefit

 

[BLKWLFK9]

No. I just told Josh to send me a 6.5cm savage prefit and that's what he pulled off the shelf.

 

[Haz251]

No. I just told Josh to send me a 6.5cm savage prefit and that's what he pulled off the shelf.

Did you use the pva brand barrel nut? Sorry for the newb questions. This will be first real action

 

[Haz251]

No. I just told Josh to send me a 6.5cm savage prefit and that's what he pulled off the shelf.

Watching a few youtube videos (risky i know) the only tools I'll need is the action wrench, torque wrench, and go no go gauges for the savage prefit right? No barrel vise or reamer or anything like that? Probably gonna go ahead and order this weekend so trying to really figure all this out.

 

[XLR308]

If your doing a savage pre fit you won't need an action wrench but you may want one later if you change to a shouldered barrel.
Some use the action wrench to keep the action stationary while torque is applied to the barrel nut.
The Savage barrel swaps I've done I just put the barrel in a barrel vise, thread the receiver on until I feel light contact on the go guage.
Snug the barrel nut by hand only no wrench then remove the go gauge and apply torque to the barrel nut watching for any movement of the receiver while tightening then recheck with the go and no go guage. I try to keep the ones I've done near minimum headspace since I had no intentions of running a variety of factory ammo in them.

It may take a couple of tries to get it perfect just take your time and definitely don't get in a hurry and forget to lube the threads on the barrel.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

yes. I use the PVA barrel nut. I love it b/c it takes a 1 1/4" wrench and no specialty wrenches. You don't need a barrel vice per se, but I use a regular vice with soft jaws. You'll need to be able to keep the barrel still and indexed. No biggie. Only takes a few minutes.

 

[vitalemj]

You might want to call and see if he has either a shouldered or prefit already spun up and chambered in the contour and caliber you're looking for. I bought a shouldered barrel form him last year that was supposed to take and month and took almost 6. It shoots and ultimately he made it right but if you want to get your new rifle up and running before Christmas I would settle for whichever was ready to go.

It's a pretty safe bet either choice will both be 1/2 MOA or better. For the shouldered, you just need a torque wrench, soft-jawed vice, and internal action wrench. For the prefit, you just need a soft jawed vice, go-gauge, and 1 1/4" wrench. You can even skip the no-go gauge and just put a piece of masking tape on the back of your go gauge and make sure the bolt wont close. That's what McMillin used to do with all the Tac 30's they were putting together, they didn't even have a no-go gauge in the shop. So you're looking at about the same in equipment purchases and mechanical ability with either option. Time to get up and running would be the deciding factor if it were me.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

You might want to call and see if he has either a shouldered or prefit already spun up and chambered in the contour and caliber you're looking for. I bought a shouldered barrel form him last year that was supposed to take and month and took almost 6. It shoots and ultimately he made it right but if you want to get your new rifle up and running before Christmas I would settle for whichever was ready to go.

It's a pretty safe bet either choice will both be 1/2 MOA or better. For the shouldered, you just need a torque wrench, soft-jawed vice, and internal action wrench. For the prefit, you just need a soft jawed vice, go-gauge, and 1 1/4" wrench. You can even skip the no-go gauge and just put a piece of masking tape on the back of your go gauge and make sure the bolt wont close. That's what McMillin used to do with all the Tac 30's they were putting together, they didn't even have a no-go gauge in the shop. So you're looking at about the same in equipment purchases and mechanical ability with either option. Time to get up and running would be the deciding factor if it were me.

I had my barrel on my nucleus in 3 days from when I called Josh and told him to send it. He probably wont have many shouldered nucleus barrels ready to ship but you have a better chance with a savage prefit that's ready to rock and roll.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

I ordered a Savage prefit from NSS and even though it was on order, I had it in two weeks. Installed in about 20 minutes with the go/no go gauge and the Barloc and it shoots lights out!

 

[Haz251]

If your doing a savage pre fit you won't need an action wrench but you may want one later if you change to a shouldered barrel.
Some use the action wrench to keep the action stationary while torque is applied to the barrel nut.
The Savage barrel swaps I've done I just put the barrel in a barrel vise, thread the receiver on until I feel light contact on the go guage.
Snug the barrel nut by hand only no wrench then remove the go gauge and apply torque to the barrel nut watching for any movement of the receiver while tightening then recheck with the go and no go guage. I try to keep the ones I've done near minimum headspace since I had no intentions of running a variety of factory ammo in them.

It may take a couple of tries to get it perfect just take your time and definitely don't get in a hurry and forget to lube the threads on the barrel.

What do you recommend for thread lube? Anti seize?

 

[Haz251]

I had my barrel on my nucleus in 3 days from when I called Josh and told him to send it. He probably wont have many shouldered nucleus barrels ready to ship but you have a better chance with a savage prefit that's ready to rock and roll.

I'm gonna give him a call this following monday. All the info in this thread helped me out. Either should be pretty simple and the same in cost after everything is said and done. Can't express how much I appreciate the help. Pretty confident that i've got it figured out now. Thanks a lot

 

[Haz251]

You might want to call and see if he has either a shouldered or prefit already spun up and chambered in the contour and caliber you're looking for. I bought a shouldered barrel form him last year that was supposed to take and month and took almost 6. It shoots and ultimately he made it right but if you want to get your new rifle up and running before Christmas I would settle for whichever was ready to go.

It's a pretty safe bet either choice will both be 1/2 MOA or better. For the shouldered, you just need a torque wrench, soft-jawed vice, and internal action wrench. For the prefit, you just need a soft jawed vice, go-gauge, and 1 1/4" wrench. You can even skip the no-go gauge and just put a piece of masking tape on the back of your go gauge and make sure the bolt wont close. That's what McMillin used to do with all the Tac 30's they were putting together, they didn't even have a no-go gauge in the shop. So you're looking at about the same in equipment purchases and mechanical ability with either option. Time to get up and running would be the deciding factor if it were me.

Seen that trick in a few youtube vids too. Glad someone here validated it. Just saved me a small chunk of money. THANKS

 

[XLR308]

What do you recommend for thread lube? Anti seize?

I have used Mos70, Areoshell 33 but the last few I have done I have just been using Mobile 1 synthetic NLGI Grade 2.
I allways have it since that is what I use on both of my vehicles for chassis and driveline, pretty sure that is what Kelblys has recommended in the past as well and it is less messy and easier to clean up if you get it on anything.
On aluminum connections I will continue to use the first two I listed.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I'm gonna give him a call this following monday. All the info in this thread helped me out. Either should be pretty simple and the same in cost after everything is said and done. Can't express how much I appreciate the help. Pretty confident that i've got it figured out now. Thanks a lot

Glad to help. you won't be dissapointed. If you plan on shooting any Prime ammo, ask for the prime cut chamber. If I'm not mistaken, PVA is the only one with this reamer and it makes prime shoot even better than it does in other chambers.

 

[Haz251]

Glad to help. you won't be dissapointed. If you plan on shooting any Prime ammo, ask for the prime cut chamber. If I'm not mistaken, PVA is the only one with this reamer and it makes prime shoot even better than it does in other chambers.

I hate handloading (HATE) so theres a good chance of using lots of prime! Does prime use an abnormally longer OAL? With a mag fed system is the prime cut chamber really gonna make a difference since it cant be any longer than a standard ai mag? I'll ask for it regardless but just wondering.

 

[Desert_Racer]

It’s literally easier and less time consuming than putting an AR together.

Grease barrel threads. Put barrel in barrel vise. Screw on barrel with recoil lug. Insert action wrench all the way, torque. Go shoot.

 

[Haz251]

It’s literally easier and less time consuming than putting an AR together.

Grease barrel threads. Put barrel in barrel vise. Screw on barrel with recoil lug. Insert action wrench all the way, torque. Go shoot.

Yea I was really worried I was gonna be stuck sending it off to a smith and waiting another 3 months. Everyones responses here have really helped. Sold my old action last night so will be giving PVA a call today or monday. Will be posting in the Nucleus pic thread before long

 

[Apnea]

Glad to help. you won't be dissapointed. If you plan on shooting any Prime ammo, ask for the prime cut chamber. If I'm not mistaken, PVA is the only one with this reamer and it makes prime shoot even better than it does in other chambers.

Any idea how this reamer is different from SAAMI spec?

 

[bohem]

Any idea how this reamer is different from SAAMI spec?

We don't share the PRIME 6.5 chamber specs.
SAAMI works decently but we made some minor tweaks to aid in performance.

 

[Archangel01]

I ordered a Savage prefit from NSS and even though it was on order, I had it in two weeks. Installed in about 20 minutes with the go/no go gauge and the Barloc and it shoots lights out!

Just got my barrel for my nucleus in today from NSS! Glad to hear yours is a shooter, makes the time waiting for my chassis and trigger to show up feeling like an eternity!

 

[hereinaz]

Just got my barrel for my nucleus in today from NSS! Glad to hear yours is a shooter, makes the time waiting for my chassis and trigger to show up feeling like an eternity!

My Shillen 6xc from NSS on my Nucleus is awesome. .5 moa and better.

Putting on a barrel is straightforward.