I am looking into getting my barrel threaded on my savage 110 FCP HS. I would like to run a can or a muzzle brake on my rifle. I have asked around at the locale range, an nobody seems to know a smith capable of preforming said task. Should I send it out to someone like Badger Ordnance or does anyone know if Savage will turn the barrel in house? A friend suggested I take it to a locale fab shop, but I don't know if I trust a fab shop to turn my barrel. Any thoughts on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter BADGER1ONE
- Start date
Re: barrel threading
Call around to qualified gunsmiths in your area, ask them if they can thread a barrel. Most can, and will do this.
Call around to qualified gunsmiths in your area, ask them if they can thread a barrel. Most can, and will do this.
Re: barrel threading
Greg tannel
Gre'-Tan Rifles
24005 Hwy. 13
Rifle, CO 81650
970-878-5421
Very nice man!
Greg tannel
Gre'-Tan Rifles
24005 Hwy. 13
Rifle, CO 81650
970-878-5421
Very nice man!
Re: barrel threading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Remoah</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Call around to qualified gunsmiths in your area, ask them if they can thread a barrel. Most can, and will do this. </div></div>
Thats part of the problem, everyone I ask about a local gun smith points me to Cabela's. And when I google... Oh ya they make this thing called a phone book. I guess I should have looked there first
I will have to give this guy a call in Rifle though, it is a bit out of the way. Beats boxing my rifle up and shipping it out though.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Remoah</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Call around to qualified gunsmiths in your area, ask them if they can thread a barrel. Most can, and will do this. </div></div>
Thats part of the problem, everyone I ask about a local gun smith points me to Cabela's. And when I google... Oh ya they make this thing called a phone book. I guess I should have looked there first
Re: barrel threading
Here is a few more, maybe one of these will be closer to you.
http://coloradoshooting.org/colorado_gunsmiths.htm
Here is a few more, maybe one of these will be closer to you.
http://coloradoshooting.org/colorado_gunsmiths.htm
Re: barrel threading
Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
I want to have a couple of barrels threaded, and was thinking about approaching a local machine shop, since there's no smiths nearby.
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have?
Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
I want to have a couple of barrels threaded, and was thinking about approaching a local machine shop, since there's no smiths nearby.
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have?
Re: barrel threading
The Midway USA website has a tool that can help you locate a Gunsmith in your area. Eric Wallace (Nawakwa Accuracy) in Battle Creek, Michigan does good work on muzzle brakes and has a fast turn around time. Just my $0.02
The Midway USA website has a tool that can help you locate a Gunsmith in your area. Eric Wallace (Nawakwa Accuracy) in Battle Creek, Michigan does good work on muzzle brakes and has a fast turn around time. Just my $0.02
Re: barrel threading
I would have a gunsmith do it or an experienced machinist. I'm sure someone at the machine/fab shop can do it just make sure they understand that when threading for brakes and suppressors you want as little run out as possible to avoid baffle strikes.
This should be in the gunsmithing secton.
I would have a gunsmith do it or an experienced machinist. I'm sure someone at the machine/fab shop can do it just make sure they understand that when threading for brakes and suppressors you want as little run out as possible to avoid baffle strikes.
This should be in the gunsmithing secton.
Re: barrel threading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have? </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES! </span>
Gun barrel wall thickness varies. Sometimes it is so bad you can see the thicker wall at the muzzle, other times it might be within just .010 inch. Factory barrels are worse than custom barrels. Here is why you want a gunsmith to do the threading.
A machinist will just chuck up the barrel in a lathe. Most people assume that the outer circumference is concentric with the bore. So the machinist puts the barrel in a 3-jaw, self centering chuck. The machinist may not have the spider at the back of the head to make the barrel muzzle is concentric with the throat. Then the machinist will cut the threads based on the outer circumference of the barrel, not realizing the bore is turning non-concentric. Sure the muzzle brake will screw on fine, and even look right, but if the outer part of barrel, which was used as a base to get the barrel concentric was off .010" + then the bullet may strike the passageway inside of the muzzle brake.
A gunsmith, while using a common lathe, knows that he must set up the barrel with the bore (muzzle exit) concentric to center of the chuck. (The hole in the barrel, not the outer body of the barrel). The gunsmith will set up the barrel to turn 'between centers' or in other words a conical shaped center will be inserted into the bore at the muzzle end, with the chambered end lined up at the same center line with another 'conical center' with a lathe dog to drive the turning of the barrel. The threads are cut concentric to the bore, with the bore concentric all of the way to the chamber using a spider set up.
Then the barrel is inserted into a self centering chuck using the outerdimension (O.D.) of the barrel to properly contour the muzzle brake. Then the <span style="font-style: italic">over</span>sized circumferenced brake is installed, and outer dimensions trimmed down to meet the contour of the barrel. This is also why most pre-packaged brakes are larger in diameter than your barrels muzzle.
One additional thing. If the brake is a type that must be 'timed' (Ports must exit in certain directions) then the 'Smith will know that and trim the brake, or barrel to get the brake timed just right. The 'smith will also know how to keep the internal brake shoulder -to- the external barrel shoulder gap to a minumum.
And last, if the barrel has to have a new crown cut, a 'smith will have the knowledge on how to do that, where a machinist will not.
I know Brownells sells dies to thread barrels but it is too easy to mess up the end of the barrel, or tap it crooked. I urge all barrel threading to be cut on a lathe.
I know a garage gunsmith who spent many hours designing and then machining 'the perfect' muzzle brake. He made all of the mistakes a machinist could make as listed above. He wanted to show me his work and fired the first shot into a pond. The bullet went first, then dug into the brakes ports and tore it from then end of the barrel. The brake flew into the pond never to be found. When I asked him how he did the threading, he said he used the outer dimension of the barrel to cut the threads, and not the bore.
Needless to say he destroyed the threads at the end of the barrel, but nothing else was damaged (aside from his pride). I had to cut a little over an inch off of the barrel (luckily he had that to spare), re-thread the barrel and install the comp properly.
I hope this explained the process well enough.
A pic would be more effective in the explanation.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have? </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES! </span>
Gun barrel wall thickness varies. Sometimes it is so bad you can see the thicker wall at the muzzle, other times it might be within just .010 inch. Factory barrels are worse than custom barrels. Here is why you want a gunsmith to do the threading.
A machinist will just chuck up the barrel in a lathe. Most people assume that the outer circumference is concentric with the bore. So the machinist puts the barrel in a 3-jaw, self centering chuck. The machinist may not have the spider at the back of the head to make the barrel muzzle is concentric with the throat. Then the machinist will cut the threads based on the outer circumference of the barrel, not realizing the bore is turning non-concentric. Sure the muzzle brake will screw on fine, and even look right, but if the outer part of barrel, which was used as a base to get the barrel concentric was off .010" + then the bullet may strike the passageway inside of the muzzle brake.
A gunsmith, while using a common lathe, knows that he must set up the barrel with the bore (muzzle exit) concentric to center of the chuck. (The hole in the barrel, not the outer body of the barrel). The gunsmith will set up the barrel to turn 'between centers' or in other words a conical shaped center will be inserted into the bore at the muzzle end, with the chambered end lined up at the same center line with another 'conical center' with a lathe dog to drive the turning of the barrel. The threads are cut concentric to the bore, with the bore concentric all of the way to the chamber using a spider set up.
Then the barrel is inserted into a self centering chuck using the outerdimension (O.D.) of the barrel to properly contour the muzzle brake. Then the <span style="font-style: italic">over</span>sized circumferenced brake is installed, and outer dimensions trimmed down to meet the contour of the barrel. This is also why most pre-packaged brakes are larger in diameter than your barrels muzzle.
One additional thing. If the brake is a type that must be 'timed' (Ports must exit in certain directions) then the 'Smith will know that and trim the brake, or barrel to get the brake timed just right. The 'smith will also know how to keep the internal brake shoulder -to- the external barrel shoulder gap to a minumum.
And last, if the barrel has to have a new crown cut, a 'smith will have the knowledge on how to do that, where a machinist will not.
I know Brownells sells dies to thread barrels but it is too easy to mess up the end of the barrel, or tap it crooked. I urge all barrel threading to be cut on a lathe.
I know a garage gunsmith who spent many hours designing and then machining 'the perfect' muzzle brake. He made all of the mistakes a machinist could make as listed above. He wanted to show me his work and fired the first shot into a pond. The bullet went first, then dug into the brakes ports and tore it from then end of the barrel. The brake flew into the pond never to be found. When I asked him how he did the threading, he said he used the outer dimension of the barrel to cut the threads, and not the bore.
Needless to say he destroyed the threads at the end of the barrel, but nothing else was damaged (aside from his pride). I had to cut a little over an inch off of the barrel (luckily he had that to spare), re-thread the barrel and install the comp properly.
I hope this explained the process well enough.
A pic would be more effective in the explanation.
Re: barrel threading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WARDOG</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have? </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES! </span>
Gun barrel wall thickness varies. Sometimes it is so bad you can see the thicker wall at the muzzle, other times it might be within just .010 inch. Factory barrels are worse than custom barrels. Here is why you want a gunsmith to do the threading.
A machinist will just chuck up the barrel in a lathe. Most people assume that the outer circumference is concentric with the bore. So the machinist puts the barrel in a 3-jaw, self centering chuck. The machinist may not have the spider at the back of the head to make the barrel muzzle is concentric with the throat. Then the machinist will cut the threads based on the outer circumference of the barrel, not realizing the bore is turning non-concentric. Sure the muzzle brake will screw on fine, and even look right, but if the outer part of barrel, which was used as a base to get the barrel concentric was off .010" + then the bullet may strike the passageway inside of the muzzle brake.
A gunsmith, while using a common lathe, knows that he must set up the barrel with the bore (muzzle exit) concentric to center of the chuck. (The hole in the barrel, not the outer body of the barrel). The gunsmith will set up the barrel to turn 'between centers' or in other words a conical shaped center will be inserted into the bore at the muzzle end, with the chambered end lined up at the same center line with another 'conical center' with a lathe dog to drive the turning of the barrel. The threads are cut concentric to the bore, with the bore concentric all of the way to the chamber using a spider set up.
Then the barrel is inserted into a self centering chuck using the outerdimension (O.D.) of the barrel to properly contour the muzzle brake. Then the <span style="font-style: italic">over</span>sized circumferenced brake is installed, and outer dimensions trimmed down to meet the contour of the barrel. This is also why most pre-packaged brakes are larger in diameter than your barrels muzzle.
One additional thing. If the brake is a type that must be 'timed' (Ports must exit in certain directions) then the 'Smith will know that and trim the brake, or barrel to get the brake timed just right. The 'smith will also know how to keep the internal brake shoulder -to- the external barrel shoulder gap to a minumum.
And last, if the barrel has to have a new crown cut, a 'smith will have the knowledge on how to do that, where a machinist will not.
I know Brownells sells dies to thread barrels but it is too easy to mess up the end of the barrel, or tap it crooked. I urge all barrel threading to be cut on a lathe.
I know a garage gunsmith who spent many hours designing and then machining 'the perfect' muzzle brake. He made all of the mistakes a machinist could make as listed above. He wanted to show me his work and fired the first shot into a pond. The bullet went first, then dug into the brakes ports and tore it from then end of the barrel. The brake flew into the pond never to be found. When I asked him how he did the threading, he said he used the outer dimension of the barrel to cut the threads, and not the bore.
Needless to say he destroyed the threads at the end of the barrel, but nothing else was damaged (aside from his pride). I had to cut a little over an inch off of the barrel (luckily he had that to spare), re-thread the barrel and install the comp properly.
I hope this explained the process well enough.
A pic would be more effective in the explanation.</div></div>
A "QUALITY" machinist or shop would not "ASSUME" anything.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WARDOG</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wannashootit</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there anything specialized about threading a barrel that would require a gunsmith, vs. a (quality!) machine shop?
Just askin, it doesn't appear to be anything that a skilled machinist couldn't do as well as a gunsmith? Is there something specialized about a gunsmith's lathe as far as it's ability to hold a barrel that a machine shop wouldn't have? </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">YES! </span>
Gun barrel wall thickness varies. Sometimes it is so bad you can see the thicker wall at the muzzle, other times it might be within just .010 inch. Factory barrels are worse than custom barrels. Here is why you want a gunsmith to do the threading.
A machinist will just chuck up the barrel in a lathe. Most people assume that the outer circumference is concentric with the bore. So the machinist puts the barrel in a 3-jaw, self centering chuck. The machinist may not have the spider at the back of the head to make the barrel muzzle is concentric with the throat. Then the machinist will cut the threads based on the outer circumference of the barrel, not realizing the bore is turning non-concentric. Sure the muzzle brake will screw on fine, and even look right, but if the outer part of barrel, which was used as a base to get the barrel concentric was off .010" + then the bullet may strike the passageway inside of the muzzle brake.
A gunsmith, while using a common lathe, knows that he must set up the barrel with the bore (muzzle exit) concentric to center of the chuck. (The hole in the barrel, not the outer body of the barrel). The gunsmith will set up the barrel to turn 'between centers' or in other words a conical shaped center will be inserted into the bore at the muzzle end, with the chambered end lined up at the same center line with another 'conical center' with a lathe dog to drive the turning of the barrel. The threads are cut concentric to the bore, with the bore concentric all of the way to the chamber using a spider set up.
Then the barrel is inserted into a self centering chuck using the outerdimension (O.D.) of the barrel to properly contour the muzzle brake. Then the <span style="font-style: italic">over</span>sized circumferenced brake is installed, and outer dimensions trimmed down to meet the contour of the barrel. This is also why most pre-packaged brakes are larger in diameter than your barrels muzzle.
One additional thing. If the brake is a type that must be 'timed' (Ports must exit in certain directions) then the 'Smith will know that and trim the brake, or barrel to get the brake timed just right. The 'smith will also know how to keep the internal brake shoulder -to- the external barrel shoulder gap to a minumum.
And last, if the barrel has to have a new crown cut, a 'smith will have the knowledge on how to do that, where a machinist will not.
I know Brownells sells dies to thread barrels but it is too easy to mess up the end of the barrel, or tap it crooked. I urge all barrel threading to be cut on a lathe.
I know a garage gunsmith who spent many hours designing and then machining 'the perfect' muzzle brake. He made all of the mistakes a machinist could make as listed above. He wanted to show me his work and fired the first shot into a pond. The bullet went first, then dug into the brakes ports and tore it from then end of the barrel. The brake flew into the pond never to be found. When I asked him how he did the threading, he said he used the outer dimension of the barrel to cut the threads, and not the bore.
Needless to say he destroyed the threads at the end of the barrel, but nothing else was damaged (aside from his pride). I had to cut a little over an inch off of the barrel (luckily he had that to spare), re-thread the barrel and install the comp properly.
I hope this explained the process well enough.
A pic would be more effective in the explanation.</div></div>
A "QUALITY" machinist or shop would not "ASSUME" anything.
Re: barrel threading
David S Sullivan - Gunsmith
Westwind Rifles, Inc.
(303)828-3823
Up north in Erie, CO
Great work and quick turnaround.
Or Mile High Shooting, who happens to be a hide sponser, and they have a turnaround of about 2 days. Had one threaded there as well and the work is great. They located on I-25 and HIWY 52.
Regards,
DT
David S Sullivan - Gunsmith
Westwind Rifles, Inc.
(303)828-3823
Up north in Erie, CO
Great work and quick turnaround.
Or Mile High Shooting, who happens to be a hide sponser, and they have a turnaround of about 2 days. Had one threaded there as well and the work is great. They located on I-25 and HIWY 52.
Regards,
DT
Re: barrel threading
Sent mine to Yankee Hill Machine, got barrel back in 2 weeks. Really satisfied with work and price. Hope this helps.
Sent mine to Yankee Hill Machine, got barrel back in 2 weeks. Really satisfied with work and price. Hope this helps.
Re: barrel threading
I should have added that a Gunsmith will likely charge you <span style="font-weight: bold">less</span> than a machine 'Shop' since they are usually set up for that type of work. A machine 'shop' will be charging you for the set-up time as well.
I should have added that a Gunsmith will likely charge you <span style="font-weight: bold">less</span> than a machine 'Shop' since they are usually set up for that type of work. A machine 'shop' will be charging you for the set-up time as well.
Re: barrel threading
+1 on Dave(Sully)Sullivan of Westwind Rifles! that is if you want it done right!
+1 on Dave(Sully)Sullivan of Westwind Rifles! that is if you want it done right!
Re: barrel threading
Use a precision rifle smith, you'll be glad you did.
Use a precision rifle smith, you'll be glad you did.
Re: barrel threading
Thanks for the info guys! I will defiantly take my rifle to a gun smith. I figured that was the better of the routes to go. Now I just have to fined one I like and trust. Cheers!
Thanks for the info guys! I will defiantly take my rifle to a gun smith. I figured that was the better of the routes to go. Now I just have to fined one I like and trust. Cheers!
Re: barrel threading
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tac284</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a few more, maybe one of these will be closer to you.
http://coloradoshooting.org/colorado_gunsmiths.htm</div></div>
I have used TJ's for both rifle and pistol 'smithing -- he's good. He's located on the east side of metro Denver, not far from Buckley AFB.
I have not had needed barrel threading from TJ. I heard one local shooter say that TJ threaded his barrel for a suppressor -- the gun shoots great and produces better accuracy with the suppressor on. I realize that isn't a newsworthy outcome from running a can, but it likely means TJ threaded that barrel properly.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tac284</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a few more, maybe one of these will be closer to you.
http://coloradoshooting.org/colorado_gunsmiths.htm</div></div>
I have used TJ's for both rifle and pistol 'smithing -- he's good. He's located on the east side of metro Denver, not far from Buckley AFB.
I have not had needed barrel threading from TJ. I heard one local shooter say that TJ threaded his barrel for a suppressor -- the gun shoots great and produces better accuracy with the suppressor on. I realize that isn't a newsworthy outcome from running a can, but it likely means TJ threaded that barrel properly.
