Gunsmithing Barrel Vise
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Take a look at this Bald Eagle barrel vise,it's a monster and on sale. Check out the make up and dimensions.
https://www.bullets.com/products/Barrel-Vise/BE1127
https://www.bullets.com/products/Barrel-Vise/BE1127
I have this one from Wally Cooper;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-B...253054?hash=item56975710fe:g:8JQAAOSwd4tT4O6M
The one on eBay is listed as a "second", hence less than what I paid for mine. The one I received was rough and needed de-burring. I spent about an hour with a file/deburring tool/crocus cloth on the steel bars and aluminum bushings and it turned out great. I really like the thing. The bolts are 1/2" and the whole thing is stout.
I used to have a Davidson type and through repeated use, the top plate warped and the 3/8" studs/nuts galled. When the top plate warps, you have to walk the plate on and off the studs. It worked for a fairly long time, but finally became more of a PITA than it was worth.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-B...253054?hash=item56975710fe:g:8JQAAOSwd4tT4O6M
The one on eBay is listed as a "second", hence less than what I paid for mine. The one I received was rough and needed de-burring. I spent about an hour with a file/deburring tool/crocus cloth on the steel bars and aluminum bushings and it turned out great. I really like the thing. The bolts are 1/2" and the whole thing is stout.
I used to have a Davidson type and through repeated use, the top plate warped and the 3/8" studs/nuts galled. When the top plate warps, you have to walk the plate on and off the studs. It worked for a fairly long time, but finally became more of a PITA than it was worth.
Since the Viper is sold by PMA Tool, you should look at their action wrench;
http://www.pmatool.com/panda-and-remington-t-handle-action-wrench/
I have one that I bought through Kelbly's that I've been really happy with. I think PMA used to make them for Kelbly, but have since stopped. Anyway, it's a great wrench.
http://www.pmatool.com/panda-and-remington-t-handle-action-wrench/
I have one that I bought through Kelbly's that I've been really happy with. I think PMA used to make them for Kelbly, but have since stopped. Anyway, it's a great wrench.
Depends on what barrels you're pulling. If you're ever going to pull milsurp rifle barrels, those mentioned above won't cut it.
If a barrel slips in the vise, you're going to mar it- so while some factory rifles may loosen relatively easily, others do not. The "universal" type vises are fine for lighter work- but won't hold up under near 1000 ft/lbs of torque that I've needed for some military take-offs.
If you want to make sure you'll never need another one, and don't have the ability to make your own (relatively simple with a lathe/mill) then I'd recommend the Brownell's vise. They have bushings pre-made for many common contours, and you can cast (or machine) your own for others as needed. Also, Chad / LRI had a post here not long ago on a prototype he was working on and it was a beauty- might PM or call him to see if he can make one for you.
If a barrel slips in the vise, you're going to mar it- so while some factory rifles may loosen relatively easily, others do not. The "universal" type vises are fine for lighter work- but won't hold up under near 1000 ft/lbs of torque that I've needed for some military take-offs.
If you want to make sure you'll never need another one, and don't have the ability to make your own (relatively simple with a lathe/mill) then I'd recommend the Brownell's vise. They have bushings pre-made for many common contours, and you can cast (or machine) your own for others as needed. Also, Chad / LRI had a post here not long ago on a prototype he was working on and it was a beauty- might PM or call him to see if he can make one for you.
I use the brownells vice with alum bushings. The vice is welded to about 1,000 pounds of steel work bench. If and when it gives out I want one like Chad at LRI posted pics of. The spring loaded feature that lifts the top of the vice when it is loosened would be damned helpful at times.
Russell
Russell
Tubb's 2K vise works just fine. Not too expensive and easy to set up. Find a scarificial leather belt and cut a few pieces to act as a cushion between the metal surfaces. I have had mine for 5 years and done dozens of barrel changes with it.
I use the viper. The highest torque ive used it to is 120ft/lbs, and it works fine. As another poster mentioned above, if your routinely removing factory barrels, you'll need something stouter.
This is solid advice. I have the viper barrel vice, and it looks like it has been through a war zone after a stubborn Remington 700 barrel. I had to glue some of the studs back in, one of the other studs seized to the nut on it. I bent the top half. Granted it is useable still and I got the barrel off, but if you are looking for some heavy duty use, better get a heavy duty barrel vice.
And most of the anti mar coating on my vice came off after the first two barrels.
I use a toilet paper roll with my viper barrel vise.
You don't have to but if you find yourself slipping need more torque on the locking nuts and/or use a medium between Barrel and vise
You don't have to but if you find yourself slipping need more torque on the locking nuts and/or use a medium between Barrel and vise
Attachments
Brown paper bag works well also.
R
R
I bought the one just like you listed and it works no where near as well as the viper.
Wally cooper gets a +2 from me. I think that is where I got my action wrench as well. Outside the action is the only way to go for factory barrels.
lmao!!! What is this the new snowflake Facebook? A dislike because the vise that was suggested, I bought and wound up with several marred barrels? Sorry if you have a vested interest in that vise but it doesn't do near the job of the viper.
I dislike an unsubstantiated statement that it works nowhere near as well. I have removed dozens of factory barrels, and don't believe for a second that a universal action wrench is superior to one that utilizes properly tapered bushings.
lol unsubstantiated would be if I hadn't used it, I have for about two years taking off over a hundred and fifty barrels. Now it's only used for barrels that it doesn't matter if they get marred now I've got the viper. This is about a barrel vise not an action wrench. Use what you want I don't give a shit but the op asked and I reported my findings from actual use
I don't know what kind of 150 plus barrels you have been taking off for the last two years, but it takes about a minute of reading above your post on other actual users of a universal, and even one with an actual viper barrel wrench, don't find them substantial enough for factory barrel removal. The OP was specifically asking about a factory barrel removal, and I have used a different brand universal aluminum barrel wrench, and it was a no-go for me. That isn't to say a viper is different, unless I guess you ask supercorndogs. Sounds like his experience is on par with everyone else on this thread. I guess I am just a fan boi though. I am glad you like your viper, and I really don't give a shit if you like the one from wally or not, doesn't affect me in the least. I only disliked your statement because it doesn't ring true with my experience or anyone else's on this thread. You are the one who tried to bring it to a 'new snowflake Facebook' level...
I bought a viper first and had nothing but trouble with it. Yes it works if the barrel had been previously removed.
I now use walleys vice and 100% agree with gaslight it works very well. I've removed some stubborn rem700 barrels with it and the viper would just spin. I even tried powder and stuff with the viper and it can't hang with walleys vice
I now use walleys vice and 100% agree with gaslight it works very well. I've removed some stubborn rem700 barrels with it and the viper would just spin. I even tried powder and stuff with the viper and it can't hang with walleys vice
This started out as a wheeler. 10tons with the pump of a lever sure beats cranking on some bolts with a big ass wrench.
This started out as a wheeler. 10tons with the pump of a lever sure beats cranking on some bolts with a big ass wrench.
That's a win!
There are quite a few choices out there. I love mine from Wally for factory barrels. For switch barrel or custom install, I like my surgeon action wrench considerably. If you are doing a factory barrel removal, it is a necessity to use an outside-the-action style
Decide whether you're ever going to work on any actions other than the 700. You can buy a dedicated round action wrench to fit the Savage 110/Rem 700 from the likes of Northland Shooters Supply, Wheeler and others- but they don't have interchangeable heads that will allow you to change them out to fit other actions.
The Brownell's action wrench is as heavy duty as they come- I've put a six foot cheater bar over the 1-1/4" handle and come off the ground with my 220 lbs on the end and it won't flinch.
The Brownell's action wrench is as heavy duty as they come- I've put a six foot cheater bar over the 1-1/4" handle and come off the ground with my 220 lbs on the end and it won't flinch.
Darrell Holland's action wrench works good for me.
Any reports on the bench source barrel vise?
Ryan
Ryan
Wanna do this once? Here you go: Collet sets available also. I made this 5 years ago. At a 1400+barrel a year install rate with a min of 4 cycles per job it's lasted over 20,000 duty cycles. No stretched bolts, no slippage, no nothing. It just works.
I made this after literally killing every barrel vise I'd ever bought. Probably more than what a home hobby guy needs, but it's kinda' like a Matco tool; buy it once.
These are not exactly cheap as the collets and what not are a fair amount of work. $1,000.00 for a full set. If your a full time guy, it's money well spent as you get to work instead of cursing a stubborn barrel on a vice with no bite.
I have two units on the shelf. Collets will have to be made, but I do have the material so it's not too long a wait. If this "takes off" I will consider a possible group buy or something.
Thanks.
C.
This is a stand I made for our 2nd one back in finishing. The later photos show the bottom but the 1/2-13 holes are not drilled/tapped yet. In this photo you see it fully assembled.
Example of a collet. Heat treated steel machined to a smooth finish. AL sucks for collets. It'll yield every time. If your stabbing a finished barrel then just wrap a layer of note paper around it. Easy stuff. I can also make "Oh Crap" collets that can be machined for odd ball sized barrels.
100% machined on every side. No saw cuts, no torches.
I made this after literally killing every barrel vise I'd ever bought. Probably more than what a home hobby guy needs, but it's kinda' like a Matco tool; buy it once.
These are not exactly cheap as the collets and what not are a fair amount of work. $1,000.00 for a full set. If your a full time guy, it's money well spent as you get to work instead of cursing a stubborn barrel on a vice with no bite.
I have two units on the shelf. Collets will have to be made, but I do have the material so it's not too long a wait. If this "takes off" I will consider a possible group buy or something.
Thanks.
C.
This is a stand I made for our 2nd one back in finishing. The later photos show the bottom but the 1/2-13 holes are not drilled/tapped yet. In this photo you see it fully assembled.
Example of a collet. Heat treated steel machined to a smooth finish. AL sucks for collets. It'll yield every time. If your stabbing a finished barrel then just wrap a layer of note paper around it. Easy stuff. I can also make "Oh Crap" collets that can be machined for odd ball sized barrels.
100% machined on every side. No saw cuts, no torches.
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1.0, 1.2, 1.25, RV taper, 1-1/16, and 1.15
RPR
M24
Most "others"
Rem Varmint cause the darn cylinder is so short
Savage
Tikka
RPR
M24
Most "others"
Rem Varmint cause the darn cylinder is so short
Savage
Tikka
Will a viper vise work for an RPR ?
Kyle
Kyle
We do a tremendous amount of barrel work here. I've killed a lot of barrel vises over the years as I exceed their duty cycle. It prompted the development of this: 5 years and running. Not one issue thus far and we've used 5' long cheater bars on stubborn actions.
We literally just finished 1st op on collet sets. Rem Sporter, Rem Varmint, 1", 1.2, and 1.25" Still have to engrave and finish them.
If you do this for a living, it's worth considering. Not cheap, but you buy it once and it won't let you down.
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This pic doesn't show it /\ , but the mounting holes are drilled into the heads of the bolts. 1/2-13 bolts tie it down.
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We literally just finished 1st op on collet sets. Rem Sporter, Rem Varmint, 1", 1.2, and 1.25" Still have to engrave and finish them.
If you do this for a living, it's worth considering. Not cheap, but you buy it once and it won't let you down.
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This pic doesn't show it /\ , but the mounting holes are drilled into the heads of the bolts. 1/2-13 bolts tie it down.
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I make my own barrel vises and action wrenches.
The barrel vises are made from 2x2 steel.
The collets are made from 1.5" round Aluminum alloy.
At 550 foot pounds static, Kroil, and a sledge hammer, I can get most any old rusty military barrel off.
I have been doing it this way for 18 years.
For years I did 1/2-13 hardened bolts, but now I have switched to 7/8-14 on the barrel vise.
I use cornstarch to get a higher coefficient of friction on the barrel.
When you design an action wrench, ignore the pictures in the books. Get all the forces in one plane normal to the bolt bore. That will avoid a bind on the receiver..
Whatever Chad does is probably better than me, but I am low tech, with both the mill and lathe with DRO, but no CNC.
The barrel vises are made from 2x2 steel.
The collets are made from 1.5" round Aluminum alloy.
At 550 foot pounds static, Kroil, and a sledge hammer, I can get most any old rusty military barrel off.
I have been doing it this way for 18 years.
For years I did 1/2-13 hardened bolts, but now I have switched to 7/8-14 on the barrel vise.
I use cornstarch to get a higher coefficient of friction on the barrel.
When you design an action wrench, ignore the pictures in the books. Get all the forces in one plane normal to the bolt bore. That will avoid a bind on the receiver..
Whatever Chad does is probably better than me, but I am low tech, with both the mill and lathe with DRO, but no CNC.
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I have a viper barrel vise and it works great. I have done several stubborn Tikka barrels and some remington 700 factory barrels and prefits with it and it holds up great no marring (i do use a business card).
As far as an action wrench goes I bought the system from Northland Shooters Supply with the attachment that centers the recoil lug on 700 actions. I also used the wrench succesfully with Tikka actions. without marring the barrel or action!
As far as an action wrench goes I bought the system from Northland Shooters Supply with the attachment that centers the recoil lug on 700 actions. I also used the wrench succesfully with Tikka actions. without marring the barrel or action!
Certainly on the right track. I use 1" bolts just because I know that if I went smaller it would shit on me Xmas eve night as Santa was standing there waiting on a delivery for Xmas morning. Just can't have that kind of reality TV here.
Certainly on the right track. I use 1" bolts just because I know that if I went smaller it would shit on me Xmas eve night as Santa was standing there waiting on a delivery for Xmas morning. Just can't have that kind of reality TV here.
I just received my LRI Barrel vice with 6 collets and I can attest to the workmanship that Chad puts into these barrel vices. The vice is a tank, and will outlast me. The collets are also built to last a lifetime as well, and the bolts are gigantic grade 8, 1 inchers.
Personally, I dont see how there could be any other barrel vice out there that is beefier than LRI's barrel vice. T I am looking forward to putting it to some use, whenever the 6.5 Creedmore\7MM Rem mag build that I have in progress is finished.
