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Bergara has a new rimfire.

well this thread was interesting to say the least, but all it did was to confirm to myself to order my vudoo today. I appreciate all
RAVAGE88 responses. Think it says nothing but positives for his company
 
well this thread was interesting to say the least, but all it did was to confirm to myself to order my vudoo today. I appreciate all
RAVAGE88 responses. Think it says nothing but positives for his company

The Bergara is a fine rifle but it lacks custom options. I really don’t think at $950 vs a min $2400 it’s going to do anything but help both companies.
I’ve had my Bergara for less than a week and prior to it I would not have bought a V22.
Now I would not be surprised if I did down the road. There was quite a bit of butt hurt in the first pages of this thread but it really isn’t needed.
 
well this thread was interesting to say the least, but all it did was to confirm to myself to order my vudoo today. I appreciate all
RAVAGE88 responses. Think it says nothing but positives for his company

The Bergara is a fine rifle but it lacks custom options. I really don’t think at $950 vs a min $2400 it’s going to do anything but help both companies.
I’ve had my Bergara for less than a week and prior to it I would not have bought a V22.
Now I would not be surprised if I did down the road. There was quite a bit of butt hurt in the first pages of this thread but it really isn’t needed.

Thanks Jinx, much appreciated.

The Bergara certainly shows promise and that’s a good thing. The more shooting, the better....

MB
 
The Bergara is a fine rifle but it lacks custom options. I really don’t think at $950 vs a min $2400 it’s going to do anything but help both companies.
I’ve had my Bergara for less than a week and prior to it I would not have bought a V22.
Now I would not be surprised if I did down the road. There was quite a bit of butt hurt in the first pages of this thread but it really isn’t needed.

This is more like $1500 vs $2500 in Canada.
 
This has become a Ford Vs Chevy reasoning contest. Moreover it is comparing a semi custom built very expensive rifle to a mass produced rifle that costs 1/3 as much. The real question is will the top of the heap really shoot so much better to justify the difference in price. The die hard match shooters switch their allegiance form one brand to another yearly as the match results are posted. <-- Referring to PRS, benchrest, LR comp.

As soon as the custom smiths get to work on the B14 you will see some real competition for the V guns. I wouldn't be surprised to see another or maybe 2 companies get into the high end RF market.
 
This has become a Ford Vs Chevy reasoning contest. Moreover it is comparing a semi custom built very expensive rifle to a mass produced rifle that costs 1/3 as much. The real question is will the top of the heap really shoot so much better to justify the difference in price. The die hard match shooters switch their allegiance form one brand to another yearly as the match results are posted. <-- Referring to PRS, benchrest, LR comp.

As soon as the custom smiths get to work on the B14 you will see some real competition for the V guns. I wouldn't be surprised to see another or maybe 2 companies get into the high end RF market.

And when the custom smiths work on a Bergara it will be right at the price range of the Vudoo. ?

Also the Vudoo is a full custom rifle. I agree though it's comparing a full custom with a factory rifle. They both are what they are and there will be plenty of customers for both.
 
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RF competition is rather new as compared to other types. I don't think the V guns are full customs as they offer you their available choices on their website, and they are limited. Much like the car makers offer a lot of options but are not a full custom car. Moreover, the word custom is mute here. The street value for a B14 is around 900. Lets say you spend another 900 to run with the V guns you are still way under the average price of a V gun.
Merry Christmas.
 
RF competition is rather new as compared to other types. I don't think the V guns are full customs as they offer you their available choices on their website, and they are limited. Much like the car makers offer a lot of options but are not a full custom car. Moreover, the word custom is mute here. The street value for a B14 is around 900. Lets say you spend another 900 to run with the V guns you are still way under the average price of a V gun.
Merry Christmas.

The options are basically a jumping off point just like GA Precision lists out options on their page for their custom rifles. You have a lot of options in the Vudoo and you can build it as you like it so it is custom to what the end user wants just like any custom rifle maker.

Actually at $1800 you are in the range as it all depends on the Vudoo made. You can get the barreled action for $1770 add $100 trigger, and a basic stock set up for $300-500 and you are at $2200-2400 and you still have a custom action. Again it comes down to what the end user wants and either will work. Merry Christmas.
 
This has become a Ford Vs Chevy reasoning contest. Moreover it is comparing a semi custom built very expensive rifle to a mass produced rifle that costs 1/3 as much. The real question is will the top of the heap really shoot so much better to justify the difference in price. The die hard match shooters switch their allegiance form one brand to another yearly as the match results are posted. <-- Referring to PRS, benchrest, LR comp.

As soon as the custom smiths get to work on the B14 you will see some real competition for the V guns. I wouldn't be surprised to see another or maybe 2 companies get into the high end RF market.

Just some tidbits ...

Tikka T1X - $469
25 MOA Rail - $50
IBI Barrel - $325
Trigger Spring - $10
New Bolt Knob - $75
Gunsmith - $150

I have this behaving like $85% of a V22. And it came out to $1080, vs $1950 ($1750 + trigger), except it also took me countless hours ordering, setting things up, and ammo testing. Hourly wage of $50/hr, pretty quickly adds up.

Same with the B14... how much is your time worth ultimately. How many hours to go find a new barrel, install, ammo test, headspace correclty, etc.
 
This has become a Ford Vs Chevy reasoning contest. Moreover it is comparing a semi custom built very expensive rifle to a mass produced rifle that costs 1/3 as much. The real question is will the top of the heap really shoot so much better to justify the difference in price. The die hard match shooters switch their allegiance form one brand to another yearly as the match results are posted. <-- Referring to PRS, benchrest, LR comp.

As soon as the custom smiths get to work on the B14 you will see some real competition for the V guns. I wouldn't be surprised to see another or maybe 2 companies get into the high end RF market.
More like Ford vs Ferrari ?
 
I don't want my point to be lost on misinterpretation. The Ford Vs Chevy is a brand loyalty reference. If your neighbors drive Ferrari's you should buy yourself a couple V's.
 
Well my B-14R come today. Fantastic in every respect fit and finish wise. I will wipe out the barrel and borescope it first. Waiting my Meopta Optika6 4.5-27x50 DichroTech 4D 30mm SFP scope to get here today. As with all my rimfires this will be put through the ringer and I'll give my honest opinion about it.
 
Some of the guys in the B-14r owners group on facebook have posted some nice groups. Here's a screen shot.
 

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Nice groups for sure, thanks for sharing those.

I'm still waiting on the scopes to get here. Meantime I cleaned the barrel and checked it with a borescope. As I expected it looked about as good as it can get with no foreign marks visible. Also I checked the chamber and it is a match chamber with full rifling engraving on the bullet. A step further showed that the Bergara B-14R is in fact controlled round feeding. I checked some other rifles I have and I was quite surprised at the results. The Bergara and my CZ 457 Scout was the only two I have that are fully controlled round feeding. What I mean is the round is fully captured by the bolt face BEFORE entering the chamber. My Anschutz 1710 was close but it never would pop fully up in the bolt face before entering the chamber. The Tikka T1x and the Sako P94S was totally push feed. I haven't checked anything else. BTW, I did take videos of all this but I have to figure out a way to post videos.
 
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Shot my B-14R yesterday and wanted to finish up today but the weather had other plans. I'll post photos later. I will say I am very happy I bought the B-14R and would buy it again, if that tells you anything.
 
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Instead of starting a new thread I'll just continue on with this one. Yesterday I shot around 325 rounds through my B-14r. First I would like to say I am really happy with it and the way it looks, feels and shoots. I would recommend one and would buy it over if I had to do it again. As for the good things about the rifle, if it crosses your mind it's good except for two things, those are the bolt throw was really high compared to what else I been shooting and it took around 100 shots to get used to it. The other thing is the trigger, while it is a great trigger as for having no creep and no overtravel, it is still a hard pull than what I am used to. It breaks consistently at 2lb 10oz after I lightened it up as much as possible. For some of you that may be fine but I prefer something no more than 2 lbs max, preferably around 1.5 lbs or less.

The following are observations. The rifle is heavier than it looks. Flip side, this rifle has a lot of "meat/steel" in it and oozes quality in both fit and finish. The stock is very comfortable and reminds me of my KRG Bravo. It is a very easy rifle to get behind and feel good immediately. Today I cleaned the bolt and breech face and to my surprise it was hardly dirty after all those rounds. When I removed the stock to adjust the trigger it took 60 in/lbs to break the action bolts loose. I put them at 25 to see how it does. You can remove the bolt without lowering your cheek riser. The magazine is great for its intended purpose. Ammo loads easy, and the mag loads easy in the rifle. Kinda like an AK mag, inserting with the front tilted up then rocking up with the rear works great for me. This rifle has a match chamber but I don't know what it is. This rifle also has controlled round feeding, something my Anschutz doesn't even have. The barrel appears to be threaded as I didn't see any pins or bolts holding it in unless I missed something. I made videos showing the controlled round feeding but need to figure out how to post it here, if that's even possible.

Accuracy wise, I have only shot RWS Target Rifle, Fed GM Match, CCI SV and Geco 22 LR Rifle. Accuracy is as expected with these ammo types and that is just so so as with about anything else. Another thing, this is the first rifle I recall shooting better unsuppressed vs suppressed, but then again, remember the ammo selection I shot.

On to the photos. If you think of a question just ask and I'll try to answer. BTW the scope is the new Meopta Optica6. Mine is the 4.5-27x50 in SFP with the 4D dichro reticle and I love it in every respect.

IMG_20191228_173701.jpg
IMG_20191228_173721.jpg
IMG_20191228_173737.jpg


Ammo stops here when pushed by hand.

IMG_20191228_132246.jpg


You can see rifling engraving pretty easy.

IMG_20191228_132916.jpg
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Rifling is very consistent in appearance and depth throughout. Also the chamber area was perfect with no foreign marks. I did not and have not yet checked the crown.

IMG_20191228_132008.jpg
B-14R RWS Target Rifle 12-28-19.jpg
B-14R RWS Target Rifle 12-28-19 Sparrow.jpg
B-14R Fed GM Match 12-28-19.jpg


Again, I am very happy I bought the rifle but am disappointed in the fact that I will probably end up replacing the trigger. Comments are welcome.
 
For those looking for the Facebook group it was a pita to find.
When you do your search make sure you only search groups. I don’t spend much time on Facebook and it took a few to figure it out.
 
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Here are a few 100 yard groups. Two were my best and the last was pretty representative of what the rest were like with my Contact stockpile.
I tried some different ammo and it went all over the place. It does not like changing ammo without cleaning. I’ll bring a rod and patches next session.
 

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Very nice groups there. I usually shoot through without cleaning the barrel in any way when changing ammo. I will continue that unless I get bad results.
 
Got one ordered today from colts. 990$ shipped. Now shopping for bases and rings for my PST gen 2.
 
I ordered my rifle from Colt’s as well and ordered the Seekins 30MOA rail for mine, but the rifle won’t show up till the 7th unfortunately. I wish I had bought it sooner so I could be shooting already

when did you order yours? I’m probably going with the EWG 40moa base, our local nrl22 we reach out to 450yds.
 
I bought it on the 20th and it shipped out on the 26th. It’s supposed to be here on the 7th. I’m champing at the bit pretty bad right now haha. I kind of wish I had bought the EWG 40MOA rail, but I guess I’ll see how the 30MOA works out. Hopefully you don’t have any issues zeroing at 50yards with that setup. I don’t know how steep of a rail you can get before you run out of travel on your scope. That’s part of the reason I got the 30MOA even though a 40MOA would probably be ok.
 
Again, I am very happy I bought the rifle but am disappointed in the fact that I will probably end up replacing the trigger. Comments are welcome.

Thanks for your post! Do you have any examples of how the CCI SV shot? Also, is there no way to bring down the trigger weight?

JHC
 
I bought it on the 20th and it shipped out on the 26th. It’s supposed to be here on the 7th. I’m champing at the bit pretty bad right now haha. I kind of wish I had bought the EWG 40MOA rail, but I guess I’ll see how the 30MOA works out. Hopefully you don’t have any issues zeroing at 50yards with that setup. I don’t know how steep of a rail you can get before you run out of travel on your scope. That’s part of the reason I got the 30MOA even though a 40MOA would probably be ok.

only one way to know and that’s to try it. On my rpr 22lr I was able to use a 30moa base plus a 20moa mount and still shimmed the base .12thou and it’s held out pretty good, have 2 nrl base class wins with that set up. Total of 62moa built in and zeroed at 50yds with sk lr
 
Thanks for your post! Do you have any examples of how the CCI SV shot? Also, is there no way to bring down the trigger weight?

JHC
Today was just too windy to shoot high dollar ammo. I did shoot today but it was to get some trigger time in, shooting at steel swingers. I used the time to play with the torque settings on the action screws and I do believe 50-60 lbs might be the way to go. I had to put my FAT "like me" Wrench on 60 in/lbs to break them loose. I am thinking about investing in a good torque wrench. I set the screws at 30 in/lb and shot, then set it at 40 and it never turned the screws, just clicked on 40 in/lbs same as 30. Went to 50 in/lbs and they moved. Went to 60, the max on the FAT wrench and they just clicked without turning the screws. I believe the FAT wrench is ok for scope mounting and torquing actions screws to around 30 in/lbs but from my experience I wouldn't trust them for accuracy or consistency above that. That's why I am looking for a new/better one.

As for the trigger.
The factory trigger only comes with one adjustment screw. Turning in increases the trigger pull and out decreases, I removed mine and 2lb 10oz is all I could get it down to. Factory had it set at 2lb 13oz. Besides some old Mausers and Walthers and Marlin lever guns, this is the heaviest trigger I have. Since I want it to be the best it can be when shooting high dollar ammo I went ahead today and bought a TriggerTech Black Diamond single stage with the flat bow. This trigger can be set down to 4 oz. If this trigger turns out to be as good as I read I may change every rifle I have if TriggerTech makes one for them.

I am hoping someone comes out with a swept bolt handle.
 
Today was just too windy to shoot high dollar ammo. I did shoot today but it was to get some trigger time in, shooting at steel swingers. I used the time to play with the torque settings on the action screws and I do believe 50-60 lbs might be the way to go. I had to put my FAT "like me" Wrench on 60 in/lbs to break them loose. I am thinking about investing in a good torque wrench. I set the screws at 30 in/lb and shot, then set it at 40 and it never turned the screws, just clicked on 40 in/lbs same as 30. Went to 50 in/lbs and they moved. Went to 60, the max on the FAT wrench and they just clicked without turning the screws. I believe the FAT wrench is ok for scope mounting and torquing actions screws to around 30 in/lbs but from my experience I wouldn't trust them for accuracy or consistency above that. That's why I am looking for a new/better one.

As for the trigger.
The factory trigger only comes with one adjustment screw. Turning in increases the trigger pull and out decreases, I removed mine and 2lb 10oz is all I could get it down to. Factory had it set at 2lb 13oz. Besides some old Mausers and Walthers and Marlin lever guns, this is the heaviest trigger I have. Since I want it to be the best it can be when shooting high dollar ammo I went ahead today and bought a TriggerTech Black Diamond single stage with the flat bow. This trigger can be set down to 4 oz. If this trigger turns out to be as good as I read I may change every rifle I have if TriggerTech makes one for them.

I am hoping someone comes out with a swept bolt handle.
You’ll love the TriggerTech trigger. Keep your credit card handy, I have a feeling you’ll need it ?
 
Just got done looking at TriggerTech website and appears they only make triggers for R700 and clones and the AR. I guess they saved me money lol.
 
only one way to know and that’s to try it. On my rpr 22lr I was able to use a 30moa base plus a 20moa mount and still shimmed the base .12thou and it’s held out pretty good, have 2 nrl base class wins with that set up. Total of 62moa built in and zeroed at 50yds with sk lr
Oh awesome. I definitely should have gone with the 40MOA then. Maybe I’ll switch it out later on or something
 
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Depends on the internal travel your scope has and how the individual parts mate up. A good starting point is the total travel....cu that number in half. So you have 60 MOA total travel for example.....you should have 30 below your zero give or take. Then get a rail that eats up MOST BUT NOT ALL of that number. So a 20 or 25 MOA rail would be a good start.

You can still get boned by tolerance stacking of parts but that is not something you can see coming.
Thanks for the tip! I should have figured that out before I bought my rail.
 
Today was just too windy to shoot high dollar ammo. I did shoot today but it was to get some trigger time in, shooting at steel swingers. I used the time to play with the torque settings on the action screws and I do believe 50-60 lbs might be the way to go. I had to put my FAT "like me" Wrench on 60 in/lbs to break them loose. I am thinking about investing in a good torque wrench. I set the screws at 30 in/lb and shot, then set it at 40 and it never turned the screws, just clicked on 40 in/lbs same as 30. Went to 50 in/lbs and they moved. Went to 60, the max on the FAT wrench and they just clicked without turning the screws. I believe the FAT wrench is ok for scope mounting and torquing actions screws to around 30 in/lbs but from my experience I wouldn't trust them for accuracy or consistency above that. That's why I am looking for a new/better one.

As for the trigger.
The factory trigger only comes with one adjustment screw. Turning in increases the trigger pull and out decreases, I removed mine and 2lb 10oz is all I could get it down to. Factory had it set at 2lb 13oz. Besides some old Mausers and Walthers and Marlin lever guns, this is the heaviest trigger I have. Since I want it to be the best it can be when shooting high dollar ammo I went ahead today and bought a TriggerTech Black Diamond single stage with the flat bow. This trigger can be set down to 4 oz. If this trigger turns out to be as good as I read I may change every rifle I have if TriggerTech makes one for them.

I am hoping someone comes out with a swept bolt handle.

When you are torque testing you need to loosen the action screw first then torque to the desired spec.
 
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Forgive me if this has been covered already...

Shopping for a new rimfire and was wondering if "match" ammo is required for the B14R? Will it cycle bulk ammo or is the chamber too tight?

I know this seems like a silly question, but given ammo shortages in the past I dont want a paperweight if there is a .22 shortage again in the future. (Im buying another .22 to make sure I can always shoot, a lot, and in volume) I have a lifetime supply of "bulk" .22, that while I dont intend on running through a nice rifle like the B14R, I would like to have the option.

Forgive the stupid question (sorry guys)
 
There is no such thing as a stupid question, if you don't know the answer ask someone that does.
I've never run across a match chamber that will not chamber all ammo I had on hand. The current match style chambers will engrave the bullet and could make it difficult to extract an unfired round. All 22 rifles like match ammo better than the bulk.
 
When you are torque testing you need to loosen the action screw first then torque to the desired spec.
Thanks for the tip. I did think about that and will do it next time, maybe today. While we are on this subject has anyone put oil on the threads to help them slip better?
 
Forgive me if this has been covered already...

Shopping for a new rimfire and was wondering if "match" ammo is required for the B14R? Will it cycle bulk ammo or is the chamber too tight?

I know this seems like a silly question, but given ammo shortages in the past I dont want a paperweight if there is a .22 shortage again in the future. (Im buying another .22 to make sure I can always shoot, a lot, and in volume) I have a lifetime supply of "bulk" .22, that while I dont intend on running through a nice rifle like the B14R, I would like to have the option.

Forgive the stupid question (sorry guys)
Only ammo that you shouldn't shoot is CCI Stinger or anything else equivalent that has a longer case than the normal 22 LR.
 
Oiling the mating surfaces would theoretically change the torque values. To be consistant you would need to have the same oil and the same amount on the mating surfaces each time you torqued the screws.
 
Oiling the mating surfaces would theoretically change the torque values. To be consistant you would need to have the same oil and the same amount on the mating surfaces each time you torqued the screws.
That's my thoughts also, but I wonder which method would give more accurate and repeatable results?? I think I will try the oil, at least on this B-14r.
 
Forgive me if this has been covered already...

Shopping for a new rimfire and was wondering if "match" ammo is required for the B14R? Will it cycle bulk ammo or is the chamber too tight?

I know this seems like a silly question, but given ammo shortages in the past I dont want a paperweight if there is a .22 shortage again in the future. (Im buying another .22 to make sure I can always shoot, a lot, and in volume) I have a lifetime supply of "bulk" .22, that while I dont intend on running through a nice rifle like the B14R, I would like to have the option.

Forgive the stupid question (sorry guys)
You do not have to shoot match ammo. It will shoot much better with it but CCI, Federal Auto match etc will be just fine.